Kneadlessly Simple: Fabulous, Fuss-Free, No-Knead Breads (26 page)
Read Kneadlessly Simple: Fabulous, Fuss-Free, No-Knead Breads Online
Authors: Nancy Baggett
Tags: #Cooking
Chapter 6: Healthful, Whole-Grain, Multigrain, and Gluten-Free Breads
This chapter celebrates a wide variety of grains and
seeds, all of which can enhance the flavor, texture, visual interest, and nutritional value of bread. For the fine flavor that is the hallmark of good homemade bread, always be sure seeds, whole grains, and whole-grain flours are impeccably fresh. The high fat content of nuts and of the germ portion of grains makes them stale rapidly, so use what you buy promptly, or refrigerate or freeze (wrapped airtight) to preserve good flavor.
Whole-grain breads are well suited to the
Kneadlessly Simple
method. Bits of grain and seeds added during the long first rise have plenty of time to soften, plus the extended soaking encourages chemical processes that make them more digestible. The bubbling action of the "micro-kneading" is also advantageous because it gently jiggles rather than manhandles the dough. Regular kneading causes the coarse grain particles to cut some of the gluten strands, which reduces their ability to trap gas and puff the bread.
Nevertheless, because whole grains contain bits of bran and germ, which are heavier than the starchy parts of kernels, breads calling for large proportions of whole grains often rise more slowly and come out more compact than those made entirely with all white wheat flour. White bread flour has extra gluten that can help lift the extra weight, so it is often called for in these recipes instead of all-purpose white flour. To further lighten the whole-grain load, some recipes call for a slightly higher proportion of yeast than most of the recipes in the book.
KS Quotient
Easy: All ingredients added before the first rise. Hand-shaping required.
This big (2½ pounds), handsome, hearty, seed-studded boule boasts a wonderful, chewy-crispy crust and springy, surprisingly light crumb. The cracked wheat, wheat germ, and combination of flax, sesame, and poppy seeds boost the fiber and nutrients, as well as lend texture and a delectable earthy flavor. The light-colored, or "golden," variety of flax seeds have a particularly rich, nutty taste and aroma that contributes to the aura of the whole-grain goodness, but brown flax seeds will do perfectly well, too.
Like the other "pot" breads in this book, this one is baked in a heavy lidded Dutch oven or similar container. (See
Choosing the Right Pot:
for more details on suitable pots.) When the lid is finally removed, it's always fun to see that the spiral pattern cut into the loaf top has opened up and exposed the interior, which dramatically contrasts the areas with seeds.
Use this hearty, all-purpose loaf for toast or sandwiches, or cut it into generous portions and serve warm with a hearty soup or stew.
Yield: 1 large loaf, 12 to 14 portions or slices
3 tablespoons cracked wheat (or chopped wheat berries; see
Tip
)
2½ tablespoons flax seeds, preferably golden
2/3 cup boiling water
2½ cups (12.5 ounces) whole wheat flour, plus more as needed
2 cups (10 ounces) unbleached white bread flour
2 tablespoons wheat germ
2 tablespoons poppy seeds
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
Generous 2¼ teaspoons table salt
1¼ teaspoons instant, fast-rising, or bread machine yeast
2½ tablespoons clover honey or other mild honey
2¼ cups ice water, plus more if needed
Corn oil, canola oil, or other flavorless vegetable oil for coating dough top and pot
2 tablespoons liquid egg substitute or egg white for glaze
1½ tablespoons each flax seeds, poppy seeds, and sesame seeds mixed together for garnish
First Rise
Combine the cracked wheat and flax seeds with the boiling water and let stand until cooled thoroughly. In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the whole wheat and bread flours, wheat germ, poppy seeds, sesame seeds, salt, and yeast. In another bowl or measuring cup, thoroughly whisk the honey into the ice water. Vigorously stir the mixture and the cracked wheat—flax mixture into the bowl with the flours, scraping down the bowl sides completely and mixing just until the dough is thoroughly blended. If the ingredients are too dry to mix together, gradually add in just enough more ice water to form a fairly stiff dough. (The seeds will absorb moisture, stiffening the dough further during the rise.) If the dough is soft, add more whole wheat flour until it is firmed up but not stiff. Brush or spray the top with oil. Tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, refrigerate for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours; if convenient, vigorously stir once partway through the rise.
Second Rise
Thoroughly stir the dough. Using a well-oiled rubber spatula, fold the dough in towards the center, working your way around the bowl. Oil a 3½- to 4-quart Dutch oven or similar ovenproof pot. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of whole wheat flour into the pot, then tip back and forth to coat the bottom and sides. Invert the dough into the pot.
Sprinkle 2 to 3 tablespoons more whole wheat flour over the dough. Pat and smooth it into the dough surface with your fingertips. Then smooth and tuck the sides of the loaf underneath all the way around so it forms a smooth, round, high dome, about 7 inches in diameter. Brush away any excess flour, then brush the loaf all over with the liquid egg substitute. Immediately sprinkle the mixed seed garnish over the loaf (it will be heavily coated). Using well-oiled kitchen shears or a serrated knife, cut a 1/8 -inch-deep spiral slash in the loaf top. Cover with the lid.
Let Rise Using Any of These Methods
For a 2- to 4-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 1½- to 2½-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water; or, for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours, then let stand at room temperature. Continue the rise until the dough doubles from its original size.
Baking Preliminaries
20 minutes before baking time, put a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 475°F.
Baking
Reduce the heat to 425°F. Bake, covered, on the lower rack for 55 to 60 minutes, until the top is lightly browned and firm. Bake, uncovered, for 10 to 15 minutes longer, until well browned, occasionally testing with a skewer inserted in the thickest part (or until the center registers 205° to 207°F on an instant-read thermometer). Then bake for 5 to 10 minutes more to be sure the center is done. Cool the loaf in the pot on a wire rack for at least 15 minutes before serving. Remove the loaf to the rack; cool thoroughly.
Serving and StoringCut the loaf into portions; it tastes good warm but cuts much better when cool. Cool completely before storing. To maintain the crisp crust, store in a large bowl draped with a clean tea towel or in a heavy paper bag. Or, to prevent drying, store airtight in a plastic bag or foil: The crust will soften, but can be crisped by heating the loaf, uncovered, in a 400°F oven for a few minutes. The bread will keep at room temperature for up to 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 2 months.
TipIf you happen to have wheat berries, which are, in fact, just uncooked whole wheat kernels, you can turn them into cracked wheat using a food processor, coffee grinder, or blender. It will take 2 or 3 minutes in a processor but only 30 to 60 seconds in a coffee grinder or blender to chop the wheat berries to the cracked wheat stage.
KS Quotient
Fairly Easy: Two simple separate sets of ingredients are mixed, then combined before the second rise. No hand-shaping.
Creating a 100 percent whole wheat bread would seem a simple task, but producing one that has good texture and tastes mellow instead of slightly bitter can be a challenge. The traditional tack of adding honey to balance the bitter edge of whole wheat flour works to a point, but another little known method introduced in
Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Breads
also helps a lot. Based on brewers' techniques for making grain mash, this innovative technique involves partially cooking part of the whole wheat flour by pouring over some boiling water, then keeping the mixture barely hot by occasionally reheating it.
Yes, this requires an extra step or two, but it greatly improves the taste and texture of the finished loaf. The hot water instantly tames the harshness and creates a mixture reminiscent of very sweet, smooth cream of wheat. (The change is caused by enzymes that convert starches into sugars and cause molecules to gelatinize and hold water.) When added to the rest of the dough, the mush begins to act on the whole amount, lending the loaf an exceptionally mellow taste and moist, creamy texture.
The only catch is that the same chemical processes that sweeten and moisten also break down the gluten. So, for a loaf that holds its shape and has good structure, incorporate the mash just before the second rise, and bake the dough as soon as it is raised. Don't try to use the extended rise option, as this will result in a sunken (though very tasty!) loaf.
Wholesome yet truly good-tasting, this bread is excellent for sandwiches, toasting, and eating as is. For a loaf with a slightly lighter color, use white whole wheat flour, a recently introduced product made from a milder, lighter-colored—but still healthful—variety of wheat.
Yield: 1 large loaf, 12 to 14 slices
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons boiling water
1/3 cup clover honey or other mild honey
3½ cups (17.5 ounces) whole wheat flour or white whole wheat flour, divided, plus more as needed
1½ teaspoons table salt
1¼ teaspoons instant, fast-rising, or bread machine yeast
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons ice water, plus more if needed
2½ tablespoons corn oil, canola oil, or other flavorless vegetable oil, plus more for coating dough top and pan
First Rise
In a 2-quart microwave-safe bowl, make a mash by vigorously stirring the boiling water and honey into 1 cup (5 ounces) of the whole wheat flour until well blended and smooth. Cover with microwave-safe plastic and place in the microwave oven. Set a cup of boiling-hot water in the oven to help keep it warm. After 15 minutes, reheat the mash and hot water by microwaving on high power for 1 minute. Thirty minutes later, again reheat by microwaving on high power for 1 minute. Then let the mash stand, covered, in the microwave, until completely cooled. Set aside at room temperature for up to 18 hours.
In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together 2 cups (10 ounces) of the flour, the salt, and the yeast. In another bowl or measuring cup, whisk together the ice water and oil, then stir the mixture into the bowl with the flour until smooth and well blended. If the mixture is dry, add just enough more water to facilitate blending and produce a firm but not stiff dough. Brush or spray the top with oil. Tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, refrigerate for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours.
Second Rise
Thoroughly stir the cooled mash mixture, then ½ cup (2.5 ounces) of the flour, into the dough, vigorously mixing until very thoroughly blended; if desired, use a dough hook and heavy-duty mixer on low, as this is tiring to do by hand. If necessary, using flour-dusted fingertips or the mixer, sprinkle over and work in enough more flour to yield a very stiff dough. Coat a 9 x 5-inch loaf pan with nonstick spray, then add 1 tablespoon flour, tipping the pan back and forth to evenly coat the interior.
Using a well-oiled rubber spatula, fold the dough in towards the center, working your way around the bowl. Invert the dough into the pan. Brush or spray the dough with oil. Smooth out the top and evenly press the dough into the pan with oiled fingertips; for best appearance, tuck the dough evenly underneath at the ends. Evenly dust the loaf with ½ tablespoon whole wheat flour; smooth it evenly over the loaf top. Cover the pan with nonstick spray—coated plastic wrap.
Let the dough rise using either of these methods
For a 2- to 4-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 1½- to 2½-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water. Remove the plastic when the dough nears it, then continue the rise until dough extends ¾ inch above the pan rim.
Baking Preliminaries
15 minutes before baking time, put a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 375°F.
Baking
Bake on the lower rack for 50 to 55 minutes, or until the loaf is well browned and firm on top; if the top begins to over-brown, tent with foil. Bake for about 10 minutes longer, until a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with just a few particles clinging to the end (or until the center registers 206° to 208°F on an instant-read thermometer). Then bake for 5 to 10 minutes more to ensure the center is done. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Turn the loaf onto the rack; cool thoroughly.
Serving and StoringThe loaf slices best when cool. Cool completely before storing airtight in plastic or foil. The bread will keep at room temperature for 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 2 months.
