Kneadlessly Simple: Fabulous, Fuss-Free, No-Knead Breads (21 page)
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Authors: Nancy Baggett
Tags: #Cooking
KS Quotient
Super Easy: Short ingredient list; one-stage mixing. No hand-shaping.
This earthy, nutty-tasting bread is a French favorite, especially in the Dordogne region. It is wonderful topped with a creamy cheese or fine butter. Some pain aux noix recipes are hand-shaped and fairly elaborate; others are fairly simple, like this one. The only remotely fussy step is toasting the walnuts, which I don't skip because it really intensifies and mellows their flavor. I don't skimp on their quality either—they must be very fresh and nutty-sweet.
My 3 ½-quart French enameled cast iron Dutch oven works well for baking this bread, but any similar 3- to 4-quart heavy pot will do. (If you don't have a Dutch oven, see
Choosing the Right Pot:
for other options.)
Yield: 1 large loaf, 12 to 14 portions or slices
2 cups (10 ounces) whole wheat flour, plus extra as needed
2 cups (10 ounces) unbleached all-purpose white flour or white bread flour
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
2 teaspoons table salt
¾ teaspoon instant, fast-rising, or bread machine yeast
2 cups ice water, plus more if needed
Walnut oil or flavorless vegetable oil for coating dough top and baking pot
1½ cups fresh, fine-quality walnut halves
First Rise
In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the whole wheat and white flour, sugar, salt, and yeast. Vigorously stir in the water, scraping down the bowl and mixing until the dough is well blended and smooth. If the mixture is too dry to incorporate all the flour, a bit at a time, stir in just enough more water to blend the ingredients; don't over-moisten, as the dough should be very stiff. Brush or spray the top with oil. Tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours.
Meanwhile, reserve 4 perfect walnut halves for garnish. Spread the remainder on a baking sheet and lightly toast, stirring several times, in a preheated 325°F oven for 10 to 15 minutes, or until fragrant and just lightly browned. Let cool. Chop finely (in a food processor, if desired).
Second Rise
Vigorously stir the cooled walnuts into the dough. If it is not stiff, stir in enough more whole wheat flour to make it hard to stir. Using an oiled rubber spatula, lift and fold the dough in towards the center, working all the way around the bowl. Invert it into a well-oiled, then flour-dusted, 3-quart (or larger) heavy metal pot (or use a flat-bottomed round casserole with a lid). Brush or spray the top with oil, then smooth out the surface with an oiled rubber spatula or fingertips. Cut ½-inch-deep slashes to form an x in the center top; well-oiled kitchen shears work best. Put the 4 untoasted walnut halves in the angles of the x for garnish; press down very firmly to imbed them. Cover the pot with its lid.
Let Rise Using Any of These Methods
For a 1½- to 2½-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 1- to 2-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water; or for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours, then set out at room temperature. Continue until the dough doubles from its deflated size.
Baking Preliminaries
15 minutes before baking time, place a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 400°F. Lightly dust the dough top with whole wheat flour.
Baking
Bake on the lower rack, covered, for 45 minutes. Remove the lid and continue baking for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the top is well browned and a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with just a few particles clinging to the bottom (or until the center registers 207° to 210°F on an instant-read thermometer). Then bake for 5 minutes more to ensure the center is done. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Remove the loaf to the rack, running a knife around the edges to loosen it, if necessary.
Serving and StoringThe loaf tastes and slices best at room temperature. Cool completely before storing airtight in plastic or foil. The bread will keep at room temperature for up to 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 2 months.
KS Quotient
Easy: Fairly lengthy ingredient list, but easy one-stage mixing. No hand-shaping.
This aromatic, flavorful, fruit-and-spice loaf is a French favorite, particularly in the farthest eastern region of Alsace. The French name notwithstanding, it is reminiscent of some traditional German honey cakes and gingerbreads called
Lebkuchen
—no great surprise considering that this territory lies across the Rhine river from Germany and has been under German rule on and off over the centuries.
Like many old-fashioned
Lebkuchen,
this recipe relies solely (and successfully) on honey for it sweetness and moistness. And, though it's enriched with dried fruits and spices, it contains no butter or eggs. These latter two were probably omitted because early church fasting rules prohibited rich fare during the pre-Christmas season of Advent, as well as during Lent.
The anise seeds, crystallized ginger, orange zest, and careful blend of ground spices give this admittedly plain-looking loaf a compelling, complex flavor that keeps calling you back. It's a fine change of pace from cinnamon-raisin toast—and quite spectacular spread with cream cheese or almond butter. Although popular during the holidays, it is not overly sweet. It isn't normally iced in France, but the
Powdered Sugar—Lemon Drizzle
is a nice way to dress it up.
Yield: 1 large loaf, 12 to 14 slices
½ cup each dark raisins and golden raisins
2¼ cups (11.25 ounces) unbleached white bread flour or unbleached all-purpose white flour, plus more as needed
1 cup (5 ounces) medium rye flour or whole wheat flour
2 teaspoons anise seeds
1½ teaspoons instant, fast-rising, or bread machine yeast
1¼ teaspoon table salt
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
½ cup clover honey or other mild honey
1½ teaspoons finely grated orange zest
1½ cups ice water, plus more if needed
¼ cup diced (1/8 -inch pieces) crystallized ginger
Flavorless oil for coating dough top
2 teaspoons clover honey or other mild honey, blended with 2 teaspoons water for wash
First Rise
Soak the raisins in hot water for 10 minutes, then drain well and let cool thoroughly. In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the white and rye flours, anise seeds, yeast, salt, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, and allspice. In another bowl or measuring cup, thoroughly whisk the honey and orange zest into the water. Vigorously stir the mixture along with the crystallized ginger and raisins into the bowl with the flours, scraping down the bowl sides and mixing just until the dough is thoroughly blended. If the dough is too dry to mix together, gradually add in just enough more ice water to facilitate mixing, as the dough should be stiff. If necessary, add in more white flour to stiffen it. Brush or spray the top with oil. Tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 8 to 12 hours.
Second Rise
Vigorously stir the dough, adding enough more flour to yield a very stiff consistency. Turn it out into a well-oiled 9 x 5-inch loaf pan. Brush or spray the top with oil. Smooth out and press the dough evenly into the pan with oiled fingertips or a rubber spatula. Cover with nonstick spray—coated plastic wrap.
Let Rise Using Any of These Methods
For a 1½- to 2½-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 1- to 2-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water; or for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours, then set out at room temperature. Remove the plastic wrap when the dough nears it, then continue the rise until dough extends ½ inch above the pan rim.
Baking Preliminaries
15 minutes before baking time, put a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 350°F. Evenly brush the top with the honey wash.
Baking
Bake on the lower rack for 50 to 60 minutes, or until the loaf is well browned, covering with foil as needed. Continue baking for 15 to 20 minutes more, until a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with just a few particles on the end (or until the center registers 200° to 202°F on an instant-read thermometer). Bake for 5 to 10 minutes longer to ensure the center is done. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Turn the loaf onto the rack; cool thoroughly.
If desired, decoratively top the loaf with the Powdered Sugar—Lemon Drizzle, allowing it drip attractively down the sides. Let the loaf stand a few minutes until the icing sets before serving.
Serving and StoringThe loaf slices best when thoroughly cooled and tastes best after being allowed to ripen for a few hours. Store airtight wrapped in plastic. The bread will keep at room temperature for up to 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 2 months.
