India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (305 page)

When, at the age of 13, Udai was reinstated at Chittaurgarh, he searched in earnest for a new site for the capital, building Udaipur on the shores of Lake Pichola. Eight years later, the Mughal emperor Akbar, trying to contain the arrogance of Udai Singh—who poured such contempt on Jai (of Jaipur) Singh’s collaboration with the emperor—attacked Chittaurgarh. This time 30,000 Rajput lives were lost, and the women and children again flung themselves on the flames rather than be captured by the Muslims. Chittaurgarh was given back to the Rajputs in 1616, much of it in ruins, but by this time the royal family was comfortably ensconced in Udaipur, and the fort was never lived in again.

Battling for a Glimpse of Beauty

It is said that the rapacious sultan Allauddin Khilji laid siege to the fort because he had become obsessed with tales of the legendary beauty of the Maharana (or Rana) Ratan Singh’s queen, Rani Padmini. He promised to withdraw, provided Singh allow him an opportunity to lay eyes on her—an outrageous demand considering that a strange man’s gaze was tantamount to the defilement of a Rajput royal woman. But in the spirit of compromise, Singh reluctantly agreed to present him with her reflection in the lotus pond that lay below the palace’s women’s quarters. The sultan used this opportunity to betray the king, ambushing and capturing him on his departure. The next day a bereft Padmini sent word to the sultan that she would give herself to him in return for her husband and the withdrawal of his troops. She then descended through the seven pols (gates), surrounded by what appeared to be her maids-of-honor—Singh’s troops, disguised as women. Singh was rescued from the sultan’s camp, but the ensuing battle cost the lives of some 7,000 of Singh’s men—a crippling loss. When it was clear that the Rajputs would be defeated, the funeral pyres were lit, and Padmini and 13,000 women and children committed jauhar, flinging themselves onto the flames, after which the last of Singh’s men went to meet certain death below the ramparts.

The fort is approached through seven massive
pols,
or gates—look for the
chhatri
(cenotaph) of the chivalrous Jaimal and his cousin Kala near Bhairon Pol. Jaimal was seriously wounded defending Chittaur against Emperor Akbar but he refused to give up and was carried back into battle on the shoulders of Kala, where both were slain. At Ram Pol is a
memorial to Phatta
who, at 16, having lost his father in battle and witnessed the deaths of his sword-wielding mother and young wife on the battlefield, led his saffron-robed men to certain death while the women of the fort yet again ended their lives by committing
jauhar.

As you enter the final
pol,
you will see
Shingara Chauri Mandir,
a typically adorned Jain temple, and the crumbling
15th-century palace
built by Rana Kumbha up ahead. Under the palace lies a series of cellars where Padmini reputedly committed
jauhar
(see box). Rana Kumbha was one of the Mewar’s most powerful rulers: In addition to the palace, he built nearby
Khumba Shyam Temple,
dedicated to Varah (an incarnation of Vishnu), as well as
Meera Temple,
dedicated to the poet and princess Meera, whose devotion to Krishna reputedly saved her from being poisoned. (Incidentally, Krishna is usually depicted as blue as a result of the poison he consumed, thereby saving the world.) Within the cenotaph in front of the temple is a
carved figure
of five human bodies with one head—in a rare overture to tolerance, this supposedly demonstrates caste equality. Farther south lies Kumbha’s
Vijay Stambh (Tower of Victory)
—a lavishly ornamented tower built by Maharana Kumbha to commemorate his victory over the combined forces of Malwa and Gujarat.

Other sites of interest are
Padmini’s Palace,
where the sultan Allauddin Khilji gazed upon Padmini’s reflection in the lotus pond;
Kirti Stambh,
a 12th-century tower ornamented with figures, dedicated to the first Jain
tirthankara;
Fateh Prakash Palace,
built for the maharana during the 1920s and housing a dry archaeological museum (small fee; Sat–Thurs 10am–4:30pm); and
Kalika Mata Temple,
originally built as a Sun Temple by Bappa Rawal in the 8th century but rebuilt during the 14th century and dedicated to Kali, goddess of power and valor. Some of the best views are from
Gaumukh (Cow’s Mouth) Reservoir,
so-called because the spring water trickles through a stone carving of a cow’s mouth.

Note:
You can get here by train from Udaipur, but it’s a late-night trip, departing at 9:40pm and arriving 2 hours later, so you would have to overnight, and perhaps consider moving on to Jaipur the following evening (on the same connecting train). Accommodations in Chittor are limited, with no luxury options. If you
have
to overnight, the best option is
Pratap Palace
(
01472/24-0099;
Rs 1,500–Rs 4,500 double); the priciest rooms have A/C units with tubs in the attached bathrooms.

115km (71 miles) from Udaipur (3-hr. drive one-way). No admission charge.

Day Trip 4: Undiscovered Palaces & Deco Delight

Note:
If you’ve come through the hardships of Gujarat over the Araveli Hills and into Rajasthan and are not quite ready for the throngs of Udaipur, then a night or two at Dungarpurs’ Udai Bilas Palace is highly recommended. Play lawn tennis, soak in the Jacuzzi, row on the lake, or simply bird-watch from the infinity pool with a gin and tonic in one hand and binoculars in the other. Dungarpur is a peaceful and welcoming town with extraordinary history and the oldest palace in India, and is an easy must-do side trip.

Dungarpur’s Palaces
It’s hard for anyone flipping through Angelika Taschen’s book
Indian Style
to refrain from gasping when they come to the pages recording the magnificent apartments of 13th-century
Juna Mahal.
The palace—one of three, and the only one not too dangerous to visit—commands a sweeping view of Dunparpur and the Araveli Hills. A seven-story fortresslike structure that appears to spring forth from its rocky surrounds it doesn’t look like much from the outside, but inside, it houses one of the world’s most interesting “art galleries”: Every wall and column is covered with beautiful, intricate frescoes—tiny paintings; mosaics with glass, mirror, and tiles; or artfully used porcelain plates embedded into the walls. And don’t forget to look above you: On one ceiling panel, gorgeous images of Krishna depict the playful god getting up to all kinds of shenanigans. In one of the massive downstairs reception rooms, the entire floor is covered with huge decaying Persian carpets. Yet even though it houses a treasure trove of art and design, the palace is far from being a tourist attraction: There are very few visitors and not a single hawker in sight, only the toothless old retainer whose trembling hands hold the keys while he waits for you to drink it all in before he opens another, even more stunning room. Perhaps it is precisely this—viewing such beauty in absolute solitude—that makes the experience so special, but the artworks are considered to be of the very best in Rajasthan. Don’t miss (you’re unlikely to, as long as the old man is around to leer at your reaction) the collection of miniature paintings depicting scenes from the
Kama Sutra;
locked away behind cupboard doors in the Maharaja’s Suite on the top floor so as not to corrupt his subjects, it’s a veritable A to Z of erotic possibilities, including some near-impossible feats (definitely bring a flashlight).

Although Dungarpur is slightly less than a 2-hour drive from Udaipur, you will surely want to consider combining the tour with a stay at nearby
Udai Bilas Palace
(
02964/23-0808
or 93-1465-3967;
www.udaibilaspalace.com
; 22 units; doubles from Rs 5,100, suites Rs 6,300, grand suites Rs 8,000, Art Deco suite Rs 11,000, Maharawal suite Rs 15,000), which has a magical lakeside setting and offers no hardship except if you choose to row your own boat that is. This, too, is a wonderful experience, particularly if you are looking for some privacy far from the madding crowd, have an interest in the Deco period, relish a sense of nostalgia, or are a keen bird-watcher. Built on the shores of the pretty Gaibsagar Lake, it’s excellent for birders all year-round.