India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (303 page)

City Palace.
0294/241-9021.
Rs 50 Jagdish Temple end, Rs 75 via Hotel Fateh Prakash; Rs 200 any camera. Daily 9:30am–4:30pm.
Crystal Gallery
Rs 500; daily 10am–1pm and 3–8pm; no photography.

Lake Pichola & Lake Palace
Most beautiful at sunrise and sunset, Lake Pichola reflects what seems to be a picture-perfect inversion of the many whitewashed and cream buildings that rise majestically from its shores and islands, known locally as Jag Niwas and Jag Mandir. Jag Niwas island is entirely covered by the Lake Palace, built by the maharana in 1740 as a summer idyll and today perhaps the most romantic—certainly the most photographed—hotel in India. What you will see if the lake remains parched is a magnificent palace that should be floating on water but instead sits on a vast, dry lake bed. A little farther south is the slightly larger Jag Mandir, upon which domed Gul Mahal stands. Famous as the star location in the movie
Octopussy,
it has also been a place of refuge: first for the young prince Shah Jahan who—in a typical Mughal ascension—was plotting to overthrow his father, Jahangir (incidentally, Udaipuris believe that Gul Mahal is what later inspired Jahan to build Taj Mahal); and later for European women and children, whom Maharana Swaroop Singh protected during the Mutiny. You can catch a boat to Jag Mandir from the City Palace (Bansi Ghat) jetty, but once you have alighted, there’s not much to do but purchase overpriced refreshments and take some snaps; the trip around the lake includes a visit to Sunset Terrace (near Dovecoat Wing) or the Lake Palace Hotel. If you haven’t booked a room at the hotel, make sure you come for dinner—the views alone are worth it, and the opulent and elegant setting is sublime (see “Where to Stay” and “Where to Dine,” later in this section).

To make a table reservation at Lake Palace, call
0294/252-7961.
To charter a boat (Rs 3,000/hr.), or book a seat on one (Rs 300), call
92-1473-2149;
launches are from Lal Ghat and there are prices to suit all budgets and trips.

TOP EXCURSIONS IN & AROUND UDAIPUR

A number of recommended excursions from Udaipur can either be tackled as round-trips or as stopovers on your way elsewhere in the state. The first option is the easiest, a half-day excursion (at most) that takes in some of the most important temples in Udaipur. The second option—which you can combine with the first for a rather grueling but very satisfying round-trip—takes you to the awesome Jain temples at Ranakpur through Kumbhalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary, past wonderful pastoral scenes that haven’t changed since medieval times, to view magnificent Kumbhalgarh Fort. From here you can either head northwest for Jodhpur or double back to Udaipur, possibly taking in the temples at Nathdwara, Nagda, and Eklingji. (If you’re pressed for time, leave out Nathdwara—beyond the superb examples of
pichhwai
paintings, there’s not much to see, as non-Hindus may not enter the temple.) To plan this as a round-trip, you will need to hire a driver familiar with the distances and terrain, and overnight along the way (see the listing for Kumbhalgarh Fort, below).

The third option is another long full-day trip, this time with the sole purpose of viewing Chittaurgarh, site of the most legendary Mewar battles. From here you can return to Udaipur or push on east to the little town of Bundi (see earlier in this chapter), and from there proceed to Jaipur or Ranthambhore National Park. For those interested in an off-the-beaten-track experience to the south, the fourth option, relatively undiscovered Dungarpur Palace, is well worth the time, not least for Deco fans who will relish overnighting in the family manse—Udai Bilas Palace, a living Deco museum—before returning to Udaipur. If Ranakpur’s temples have whet your appetite for more, a fifth option, an excursion to the west ascending the Aravalli Hills to Mount Abu, the only hill station in Rajasthan and home to Dilwara—the most famous Jain temples in India—can also be tackled from Udaipur, though the distances will necessitate an overnight stay. Details of distances for all excursions are given below.

An excursion to an attraction that is not described in detail below, but which may interest birders or those in search of more peace, is
Jaisamand Lake,
the second-largest man-made lake in Asia, created in 1691 by Maharana Jai Singh and, thankfully, still containing water. Located a little over an hour away from Udaipur, it has a number of marble pavilions but is more famous for the many aquatic birds that have found a home in what is now
Jaisamand Wildlife Sanctuary.

Day Trip 1: A Half-Day Temple Excursion

Eklingji & Nagda Temples
Housing a manifestation of Shiva, the god who guards the fortunes of the rulers of Mewar, Eklingji is a lovely marble complex made up of 108 temples, the first of which was built in
A.D.
734 by Bappa Rawal, legendary founder of the Sisodia clan, who ruled the Mewar kingdom for hundreds of years. The entire complex, most of it rebuilt in the 15th century, has a wonderfully uplifting atmosphere, particularly during prayer times (see below), and never more so than on the Monday evenings when the Maharana of Udaipur is in town and comes to pay his respects here, walking among his subjects as a mere mortal despite the attendant bowing and scraping. The four-faced black lingam (phallic symbol) apparently marks the spot where Bappa Rawal (that’s him riding the peacock) was given the title Darwan (“servant”) of Eklingji by his guru; outside, facing Shiva, is Nandi, Shiva’s vehicle. Wander around the temple complex and you’ll find a number of carvings from the
Kama Sutra;
your explorations won’t exceed 30 minutes but the crush at the gate on festival times can be daunting. Deserted
Nagda,
which lies 2km (1 1⁄4 miles) north, is a far cry from this vibrant place of worship. All that survives of the site of the ancient capital of Mewar, which dates back to
A.D.
626, are the ruins of the
Saas Bahu,
a 10th-century Vaishnavite twin temple (
Saas
meaning “mother-in-law” and
Bahu
“daughter-in-law”) and the remains of Adbhutji Temple. Regrettably, the temples have been vandalized over the years and look much the worse for wear—unless you’re of the archaeological bent, skip them if you’re pushed for time despite it being a supremely peaceful place set among lush fields and a picturesque lotus pond.

22km (14 miles) north of Udaipur (30–40-min. drive one-way). Eklingji daily 4:15–6:45am, 10:30am–1:30pm, and 5:15–7:45pm. Prayer times: 15-min. Aartis are performed at 5:30am, 8:15am, 9:15am, 3:30pm, 4:30pm, 5pm, and 6:30pm; a 45-min. aarti is performed at 11:30am.

Nathdwara
Said to be the second-richest temple in India, Nathdwara’s
Shri Nathji Temple,
home to a 600-year-old black marble statue of Lord Krishna, is one of the most important pilgrimage sites in India, attracting thousands, particularly during the festivals of Diwali, Holi, and Janmashthami. According to legend, in 1669 as the statue was being carried from Mathura to protect it from the destructive blows of the pious Mughal emperor Aurangzeb, it fell off the wagon at this site; the carriers (no doubt pretty exhausted) took this as a sign and built the temple around the statue. That said, the interior is closed to non-Hindus, so many of you won’t even get a glimpse of the statue. The main reason to visit is to view what many believe are the finest examples of
pichhwai
paintings that adorn the interior and exterior of the temple. Hand-spun cloth painted with vibrant scenes depicting Krishna’s life, these were originally created to teach illiterate low castes (who in the past were also barred from entering the sacred inner sanctum). You can purchase your own
pichhwai
paintings in the local bazaar, or look for more examples in Udaipur. Note that this is also a center for traditional
meenakari
(enamel) work.