India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (55 page)

4 Where to Stay

With greater supply than demand for rooms in Mumbai over the last few years, and the emergence of numerous five-star properties in the suburbs, rooms in downtown Mumbai can often be booked at good rates. Don’t always go by a hotel’s published tariff; ask about seasonal or daily discounts and cruise the Internet for bargains. It’s not uncommon to find ridiculously cheap deals for rooms in hotels like the Taj President, available even during the popular winter season. That said, budget travelers should be prepared to spend more on lodging in Mumbai than in any other city on the subcontinent; standards at the low end can be difficult to stomach, so you’re better off forking out a little more for a decent place to stay.

Marine Drive is a great option if you want a prime view of the Arabian Sea, but it’s pricey. With a variety of options to suit every budget (top choice obviously being the Taj Mahal Palace & Tower, reviewed below), Colaba-Fort is where most tourists end up, but these days there’s as much fun (although not as many historic attractions) to be had in areas like Worli, Bandra and Juhu, all of which offer great shopping, dining and nightlife options. If you are literally overnighting and have no desire to spend time in Mumbai, a number of options are located close to the international airport, but there are very few bargains here. A good compromise is Juhu, which has cheaper choices and a great nighttime atmosphere, and is only a 30-minute drive from the airport.

MARINE DRIVE

Within walking distance of the city’s commercial center, Marine Drive is a great place to base yourself, not least for the sea views and sense of space these provide—offering a relief from the hustling, bustling streets that lie east. Expect to pay for the privilege, however, since prices for real estate along this famed strip are as breathtaking as the views.

Very Expensive

InterContinental Marine Drive
The great location goes without saying, but the sense of intimacy, and the sumptuousness of its enormously proportioned accommodations really make this a stand-out among the other expensive business hotels along Marine Drive. Amid all the great design (with a modernized tribal arts theme throughout) and (we’ll say it again) very impressive size of the rooms (there’s lots of focus on ensuring you get a good night’s sleep). You’re offered a free 20-minute in-room massage, and the ultra-plush beds are complemented by an extensive “Pillow and Quilt Menu.” A Bose music system delivers perfect sound throughout the room, and bathrooms are lusciously laid-out, too. Most rooms offer some view of the sea, but the pricier “deluxe seafront” units are best. It’s all very lovely, but service can feel a bit curt, and when we were last here we overheard guests complaining of bogus telephone charges, so definitely worth checking your bill before handing over your credit card

135 Marine Dr., Mumbai 400 020.
022/3987-9999.
Fax 022/3987-9600.
www.mumbai.intercontinental.com
. 58 units. Rs 19,500 deluxe double; Rs 21,500 deluxe bay view double; Rs 23,500 deluxe sea front double; Rs 28,500 deluxe bay view suite; Rs 33,000 deluxe corner suite; Rs 50,000 luxury suite; Rs 75,000 presidential suite. Rates exclude 10% tax. Children under 12 stay free if sharing without extra bed. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
2 restaurants, lounge, 2 bars, including Dome (see “Mumbai After Dark”); airport transfers (Rs 2,900 plus tax); concierge; free DVD & CD library; health club; room service. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, fax (in most), hair dryer, minibar, music system, Wi-Fi (Rs 350/hr.; Rs 1,200/day).

The Oberoi
The best hotel on Marine Drive will emerge by 2010 after year-long renovation. It’s particularly from a service point of view that The Oberoi wins hands-down; touches like being met at the terminal gate, your luggage dealt with for you, right through to the personal butler on each floor summoned by the touch of an “Ask Jeeves” button, and genuflecting staff members who go out of their way to make you feel revered, are typical Oberoi, and worth every dollar. If Mumbai is your first port of call, you’ll find the genteel atmosphere a relief—tranquil and sophisticated, yet very relaxed, this is where you want to retreat after spending a few hours out on the crowded streets. All accommodations are spacious, with tasteful decor, but the best rooms are the luxury sea-view rooms, with stunning sea views and gorgeous sunsets turning the whole room a pale pink before the Queen’s Necklace starts to sparkle—a dazzling predinner spectacle.
And
, these rooms include airport transfers.
Note:
If the rates here are a tad stiff, overnight in the adjoining
Trident Nariman Point
(reviewed below), where you’ll enjoy a taste of the Oberoi’s famous service (albeit shared with many more guests) and you’ll have your pick of both sets of facilities.

Nariman Point, Marine Dr., Mumbai 400 021.
022/5632-5757,
or -6887 reservations. Fax 022/5632-4142.
www.oberoihotels.com
. 333 units. At press time, The Oberoi is closed for extensive renovations, and scheduled to reopen by 2010. Rates are currently unavailable. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
3 restaurants; lounge; bar; airport transfers (free for certain room categories); butler (on each floor); concierge; health club and spa; large outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD (deluxe rooms & suites), fax, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (chargeable).

Expensive

Hotel Marine Plaza
Any address along Marine Drive is highly sought after, and the former Bombay International is no exception, though it’s not in the same class as The Oberoi, InterContinental, or the Trident. Like the hotel, the Deco-styled marble lobby is small, its main stairway concealing a lounge from where you stare up at people in the glass-bottom pool five floors up. Besides taking a dip, the pool deck is where you’ll get wonderful views over Back Bay and the entire Queen’s Necklace strip. Most of the accommodations are suites, some of which are relatively well-priced but require neck-straining to get a look at the view; make sure to specify a room with a direct sea view. Ironically, the cheapest (“superior”) rooms (there are just four) all face the sea full-on; they’re slick and smart, albeit in an old-fashioned sort of way (carpets, old sofas, old TVs, and very low furniture). Note, too, that if it matters, you should specify if you require a king-size bed.

29 Marine Dr., Mumbai 400 020.
022/2285-1212.
Fax 022/2282-8585.
www.hotelmarineplaza.com
. [email protected]. 68 units. Rs 16,000 superior double; Rs 18,000 executive suite double; Rs 24,000 deluxe suite double; Rs 28,000 special suite double. Rates include breakfast; 10% tax extra. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
2 restaurants; pastry shop; bar; airport transfers (Rs 1,800–Rs 1,860); health club; rooftop pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs 450/hr.; Rs 1,860/day).

Trident Nariman Point
Often regarded as the mass-market sibling of the attached Oberoi, this is one of Mumbai’s slickest, smartest, and friendliest business hotels, and enjoys an enviable position with excellent views across Back Bay and the entire Marine Drive strip. While accommodations are sumptuous (sleek and light-filled, with plenty of modern-looking blonde wood, big back-supporting beds with silky white linens, and extensive amenities for demanding business travelers), it’s primarily in the area of service that this colossal hotel trumps competitors down the road (neither the InterContinental nor the Marine Plaza come close). On top of the excellent in-house dining options (a smart-casual dress code is in place—no shorts) and a luscious new spa, you can also rely on the concierge desk to achieve near-miracles, and—should you take our advice and book a Taj Club room (with a sea view, of course)—you’ll enjoy the services of a butler, making your stay feel extraspecial.