India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (51 page)

Don’t let the security cordon prevent you from taking a look inside the Taj Mahal Palace, however. The best way to experience both the Taj and the Gateway is to head inside the hotel and make for the
Sea Lounge
for high tea (see “Mumbai’s Ultimate Afternoon Escape” box); you’ll enjoy sublime views of the Gateway while getting a taste of one of the city’s foremost social institutions, not to mention inhabiting a space that’s played host to a veritable who’s who of international politics and celebrity (everyone, from Gandhi to Nehru to Mick Jagger to Madonna, has stayed here).

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Marg. Gateway information:
022/2202-3585
or -6364.

Jain Temple
This is arguably the prettiest temple in Mumbai (indeed, Jain temples are generally the prettiest in India). If your itinerary does not include a visit to one elsewhere (the most famous being in Rajasthan), do make the time to visit Mumbai’s. Members of the Jain community are known to be exceptionally adept in the world of business, and although they believe in self-restraint and aestheticism (orthodox Jains will not tread on an ant, and at their most extreme wear masks to avoid breathing in even tiny insects), they pour large sums into the construction and maintenance of their places of worship. Officially called
Babu Amichand Panalal Adishwarji Jain Temple,
this beautifully decorated and adorned temple has an entrance flanked by two stone elephants. The downstairs area houses an array of deities and saints, including an image of Ganesh that recalls historical links between Jainism and Hinduism.

Ridge Rd., Walkeshwar (Malabar Hill).
022/2369-2727.
Daily 5am–9pm.

Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat
It’s a fascinating spectacle, looking down on row upon row of open-air concrete wash pens, each fitted with its own flogging stone, while Mumbai’s
dhobis
(around 200
dhobi
families work together here) relentlessly pound the dirt from the city’s garments in a timeless tradition. Known as the world’s largest outdoor laundry, the municipal Dhobi Ghat in Mahalaxmi is where Mumbai’s traditional washerfolk—or
dhobis
—provide a wonderful service, collecting dirty laundry, washing it, and returning it neatly pressed, all for a very small fee. Stubborn stains are removed by soaking garments in a boiling vat of caustic soda; drying takes place on long, brightly colored lines; and heavy wood-burning irons are used for pressing. At the very least, it’s a great photo opportunity, though most locals think it rather amusing that their everyday work arouses such curiosity. (Note that there is another Dhobi Ghat off Capt. Prakash Petha Marg, Colaba, which may be more accessible.)

Dr. E. Moses Rd. (near Mahalakshmi Station).

Mani Bhavan Gandhi Museum
Mahatma Gandhi lived in this quaint Gujarati-style house from 1917 to 1934, and it was here in November 1921 that he conducted a 4-day fast in order to restore peace to the city. This quiet three-story home on a beautiful laburnum tree–lined avenue now preserves the spirit of the man who selflessly put his nation before himself. There’s a library of Gandhi-related works, as well as displays of photographs, posters, slogans, and other items that document and explain Gandhi’s legendary life; dioramas depicting major events and turning points in his fight for the nation’s freedom draw particular attention to his devotion to the poor. You can see Gandhi’s old
charkha
(spinning wheel), which in many ways symbolized the struggle for independence, as it represented a return to roots and to sustainable home industry, where anyone can weave his or her own cloth. A visit to this tranquil spot makes a welcome change from the continuous hubbub of life in Mumbai—go up to the roof to really appreciate the relative stillness of the surrounding neighborhood.

19 Laburnam Rd., near Malabar Hill.
022/2380-5864.
www.gandhi-manibhavan.org
. Admission Rs 10; donations appreciated. Daily 9:30am–5:30pm.

Marine Drive & Chowpatty Beach
Marine Drive (renamed Netaji Subhash Chandra Marg) follows the sweeping curve of sea that stretches north from Nariman Point’s high-rise buildings to infamous Chowpatty Beach, located at the foot of Malabar Hill. It’s the ultimate seaside promenade, where Mumbaikars come to escape the claustrophobia of central Mumbai, gratefully eyeing an endless horizon while strolling or jogging along the broad windswept promenade. In the evenings, casual, single-item snack stalls are set up for brisk trade; a stroll along here also takes in the world’s second-largest stretch of Art Deco buildings (in future years, there’ll be heritage plaques identifying the most significant of these). Having undergone an extensive refurbishment and general neatening-up in recent years, there’s another huge beautification project on the back-burner (apparently buried under a deluge of bureaucratic mismanagement) that will, among other things, include open-air galleries and improved walkways, and at Nariman Point, a breakwater promontory will extend 280m (9181⁄2 ft.) into the sea, culminating in a stepped amphitheater. Even before all that happens, this is the city’s ultimate sunset spot, when—having watched the orange globe sink into the Arabian Sea—you can witness the street lights transform Marine Drive into the aptly named Queen’s Necklace, a choker-length of twinkling jewels adorning Back Bay. The scene is perhaps best enjoyed with cocktail in hand at one of the Drive’s classier establishments—the InterContinental’s rooftop lounge and restaurant,
Dome,
is where you should be.

Once the sun has set, catch a ride (or walk) north along Marine Drive to Chowpatty, Mumbai’s oldest seafront. Chowpatty is no longer the filth-ridden extravaganza its long-acquired reputation suggests (though it’s still not in any state for sunbathing or swimming), and at night it assumes the demeanor of a colorful fair. Children of all ages flock to ride the ancient Ferris wheels and tacky merry-go-rounds, and fly-by-night astrologers, self-styled contortionists, snake charmers, and trained monkeys provide the flavor of the bazaar—and bizarre—especially on weekends. This is where locals love to consume the city’s famous street snacks, especially
bhelpuri:
crisp puffed rice, vegetables, and fried lentil-flour noodles doused in pungent chutneys of chili, mint, and tamarind, then scooped up with a tiny, flat
puri
(puffy deep-fried bread). Chowpatty
bhelpuri
is renowned throughout India, sold here by the eponymous
bhelwallas,
who now ply their trade in Bhel Plaza, where other traditional treats like
kulfi
are on offer at dirt-cheap prices.