India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (38 page)

Day 10: Jaipur

Drive to Jaipur, where you can explore the
City Palace
and
Amber Fort
in a day; you’ll need a little more time if you want to go to
Samode Palace,
an hour’s drive away. However, no amount of time is enough for the shopping; Jaipur is a
bargain-hunter’s
haven, where you will find gorgeous Rajasthani crafts for sale that are hard to resist. In Jaipur, overnight at
Taj Rambagh Palace
(if you prefer an authentic historical experience close to the heart of the city), or
Rajvilās
(if you enjoy the illusion of being far away from everything, combined with absolute luxury). Alternatively, stay at Samode Haveli, easily the best heritage property in the Old City, or simply refer to any of the heritage properties reviewed, which cover a range of budgets.

Day 11: Pushkar

Late in the afternoon, drive from Jaipur to the temple town of
Pushkar,
stopping en route to view
Dargah Sharif,
the top attraction of
Ajmer
along the way. Get your “Pushkar Passport” as early as possible, which will then free you from further harassment by priests. Spend the night on the shores of Pushkar Lake, preferably at
Pushkar Palace.

Note:
If Pushkar lake is dry (which it has been of late) you might want to consider skipping Pushkar, pausing instead at the small and remote village of Shahpura, where family owned Shahpura Bagh is one of our favorite places to stay in Rajasthan and the mild-mannered village makes a great alternative to the pushy, rather ugly town of Pushkar.

Days 12 & 13: Pushkar & Jodhpur

Start out early to explore Pushkar, a charming (if very filthy, touristy) town surrounding a sacred lake on the eastern edge of the Thar Desert, and an important pilgrimage site for Hindus. Browse the
street bazaar,
where you can pick up the most gorgeous throwaway gear, great secondhand books, and CDs at bargain prices. Pushkar can be explored entirely on foot—it will take you about 45 minutes to walk around the holy lake and its 52
ghats
(stairs). From Pushkar, move on to
Jodhpur,
where you must set aside half a day to visit fabulous
Mehrangarh Fort and Museum,
arguably Rajasthan’s most impressive and cleanest fort, with sheer clifflike walls that soar above the city. Situated on another raised outcrop, with sprawling grounds creating a majestic ambience, is
Umaid Bhawan Palace,
built by Maharaja Umaid Singh as a poverty-relief exercise to aid his drought-stricken subjects. Designed by Henry Lanchester, a great admirer of Lutyens (the man who designed New Delhi), it was started in 1929, took 3,000 laborers 13 years to complete, and remains one of the best examples of Indo-Saracenic Art Deco style. If you don’t mind the splurge, try to spend the night at the Palace (preferably in one of the beautiful Deco-styled historical suites), and catch the setting sun from the edge of the lovely outdoor pool. Breakfast at
The
Pillars
restaurant, where you can enjoy a spellbinding view of the fort in the distance. Move on to the new, sexy Mihir Garh and go for a sunset gallop into the Thar Desert, or relax at the endearing
Rawla Narlai
or even (if you don’t mind a lengthy detour)
Fort Seengh Sagar
to overnight.

Days 14 & 15: Udaipur

Enjoy the morning at Migir Garh or Rawla Narlai, then head to Udaipur, stopping at the
Ranakpur temples
(and, if you’ve left early enough, Kumbhalgarh, overnighting at Aodi) en route. In Udaipur overnight at the fabulous, fabled
Lake Palace
or any of the recommended accommodations that have a lake view. Time allowing, take a sunset cruise on the lake or enjoy a muscle-tingling treatment in the Taj’s spa boat. The following day, visit the
City Palace and Museum
in Udaipur. Prime attractions worth pursuing and doable in the time available are the temples at
Nathdwara
and
Eklingji.
Or spend the rest of the day lounging around the pool under the shade of its 263-year-old mango tree. If you wish to squeeze in an extra day, do so at
Devi Garh,
45 minutes outside Udaipur.

Day 16: Udaipur & Delhi

Enjoy a leisurely morning roaming Udaipur’s lovely bazaars, or relax at the Devi Garh pool, before taking an afternoon flight back to Delhi. If you have space left in your baggage (fat chance!), stop for last-minute souvenirs and gifts before you board your flight home.

2 The Golden Triangle & Rajasthan Highlights

The Golden Triangle & Rajasthan Highlights

Though this itinerary includes Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur (the “Golden Triangle”) and captures many of the essential Rajasthan sights, it does not include
Jaisalmer,
one of Rajasthan’s most wonderful destinations, primarily because it’s not very easy to get to. In a 2-week vacation that also takes in Delhi and Agra, it would be hard (but not impossible) to include Jaisalmer. Best to extend your stay in India by a few days if you want to cover this oldest “living” fortified city in Rajasthan. Located in the heart of the Thar Desert on India’s far western border, Jaisalmer has breathtakingly beautiful, crumbling sandstone mansions, though its main attraction,
Sonar Killa
(Golden Fort),
is reason enough to travel this far west, not least because it may not exist in a few years time. Though not as impressive as Jodhpur’s Mehrangarh Fort, Jaisalmer has its unique charm as an inhabited medieval fort. So if you do come to Jaisalmer, plan to spend 2 nights, not least because it takes so long to get to here.

Days 1–3: Delhi

After your long flight and no doubt middle-of-the-night arrival, have a car waiting for you and check in at Delhi’s finest hotel,
Aman,
at one of the city’s superb midrange guesthouses,
Amarya Haveli
or
Amarya Gardens,
or at the best budget accommodations in town, the stylish
Master Guest House,
which will also arrange an airport transfer (book well in advance). When you feel you’re ready to face the world, take in a few New Delhi sights, including
India Gate,
built to commemorate those who died in World War I. Walk from
Rajpath
to
Rashtrapati Bhavan,
where the president of India lives. After you cover the 12th-century
Qutb Minar
complex in South Delhi, grab a table at
Park Balluchi
before browsing the shops in Hauz Khas. After lunch, visit the garden tombs of
Humayun
and of
Hazrat Nizamuddin Aulia
(the saint Sheikh Nizamuddin Aulia), one of the holiest Muslim sites in India. Time allowing,
stop off at
Rajghat,
the place where Gandhi was cremated in 1948.
Of course if you’re here to shop or want to browse, scrap these and head for
Dilli Haat,
a great place to check out the range of handicrafts you’ll find on your travels through India. Pick one of Delhi’s excellent restaurants for dinner (consider booking a table at the gorgeously designed
Véda,
or check if
Olive Bar and Kitchen
has reopened).

Prepare yourself for the chaos of the crowded streets of 17th-century
Shahjahanabad,
or Old Delhi—just a few kilometers from Connaught Place, it feels a hundred years away, and the pungent smells from the ancient streets are a heady reminder that you are far from home. Still surrounded by crumbling city walls and three surviving gates, the vibrant, bustling Shahjahanabad, built over a period of 10 years by Emperor Shah Jahan, is very much a separate city—predominantly a labyrinth of tiny lanes crowded with rickshaws and lined with
havelis
(Indian “mansions”), their balustrades broken and once-ornate facades defaced with rusted signs and sprouting satellite dishes. Start with imposing
Lal Qila (Red Fort)
and
Jama Masjid,
India’s largest mosque. If the crowds haven’t left you exhausted, visit
Gauri Shankar Temple,
Sisganj Gurudwara,
and
Sunehri
and
Fatehpuri masjids.
The city’s lanes and back lanes are exciting to wander through, especially
Chandni Chowk,
Khari Baoli
(the spice market), and
Kinari Bazaar
—but do hold on tightly to your belongings.

Days 4 & 5: Shekhawati

Make an early start and drive to the Shekhawati region, the open-air art gallery of Rajasthan. Today there are some 30 “painted towns” in the region, but the most essential to include in a first-time itinerary are
Ramgarh, Nawalgarh, Fatehpur,
and
Mandawa.
Mandawa is
a quaint town with a number of beautifully painted buildings; it is also centrally located and has the best accommodations in the area. Overnight at Desert Resort as your first choice and then opt for the gracious
Castle Mandawa.

Days 6 & 7: Jaipur & Ranthambhore

Drive to the “Pink City” of Jaipur. If possible, book into the wonderful
Rajvilās
(more resort than hotel), though Jaipur is one city that has a host of pleasant heritage options to suit every budget. If you prefer the authenticity of a real heritage hotel, book a room in the opulent and well-located
Rambagh Palace
or the more low-key
Samode Haveli
inside the Old City. Explore the
City Palace,
including a visit to Hawa Mahal and Jantar Mantar, and then focus on sites farther afield:
Amber Fort,
first royal residence of the Maharajas of Kachchwaha, lies 11km (6 3⁄4 miles) north, while popular
Samode Palace
is an hour’s drive away. Jaipur, famous for gems and jewelry, enamel and brassware, blue pottery, embroidered leather footwear, rugs, tie-and-dye cotton fabrics, hand-blocked prints, fine
Kota doria
saris, and ready-made linens and home furnishings, is a
shopper’s paradise.
You could spend days bargain-hunting through the region’s wonderful crafts, so be prepared to extend your stay by at least a day. If this is not possible, set off on the evening of Day 7 to
Ranthambhore National Park,
and overnight at
Aman-i-Khás,
for the finest “tenting” experience in India.

Day 8: Ranthambhore

Take an early morning or afternoon game drive into the park. Set aside a few hours to visit
Ranthambhore Fort,
whose high, jagged escarpment has towered over the park’s forests for nearly a thousand years. Go
tiger tracking;
the highlight of a trip here is spotting a tiger. Even if you don’t see a tiger (and do be prepared for this eventuality), the physical beauty of the park is worth experiencing. Other species to watch for include
caracal
(a wildcat), crocodile,
nilgai
(large antelope resembling cattle),
chital
(spotted deer), black buck (delicate buck with spiraling horns),
chinkara
(a dainty gazelle), and sambar. The park also holds leopards, wild boars, sloth bears, and rich birdlife. At night, unwind around a campfire and swap stories with other travelers, or discuss the fate of the highly endangered tiger.