India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (37 page)

LANDING THE BEST ROOM

Somebody has to get the best room in the house; it might as well be you. First, make sure your room has air-conditioning (unless you’re in the cool mountain regions where it isn’t needed). Ask for a room with split air-conditioning (an air-conditioner with a separate indoor and outdoor unit); it’s far less noisy—and ugly—than a window air-conditioner. If there’s no air-conditioning, ask whether there is a ceiling fan or a water-cooling system. Be sure to request your choice of twin, queen- or king-size beds. Ask for rooms with views (many hotel staff don’t understand this concept in India, so it’s best to look around on arrival), and specify if you prefer a shower or tub (tubs in medium or budget category are usually old and stained, so don’t shy away from shower-only options—which are far more environmentally friendly anyway). Ask for one of the most recently renovated or redecorated rooms—bathrooms in particular seem to suffer heavy wear and tear in India.

Tip:
Indians often use the term “hotel” to refer to a restaurant or eating place, so don’t be surprised if someone suggests you eat at a hotel down the road, and you arrive there to find a five-table shack.

Chapter 4: Suggested India Itineraries

India is such a vast country and has so much to see that visitors are tempted to pack in as much as possible. Begin any trip to India with the knowledge that no matter how long your vacation, it will not be long enough. Knowing this can help you make the best of your time here and prevent you from planning a punishing schedule that will leave you not only thoroughly overwhelmed, but with an uncomfortable feeling that you’ve rushed through most of what you did see.

Despite greatly improved accommodations and transportation options, India is still a challenging destination, and you should always be prepared to take in stride a delayed flight, slow check-in, or upset tummy on, say, a long-distance train. Set aside time to acclimatize and simply unwind—this is, after all, a vacation.

Ideally, you should use this book’s “Best Of” chapter to work out a route that covers those experiences or sights that really appeal to you, as the range of possible itineraries is endless; what we’ve suggested below are three rather full programs covering either North or South India over a
2-week period.
If possible, extend your trip—2 weeks is not enough time to come to grips with India—and set aside more time for those destinations that sound most appealing to you. The fourth itinerary is for those who want to experience India at a languid, easy pace while still taking in key attractions—and there is no better place to do this than in southern India.

You could, of course, combine a trip to both the north and the south, but then you really should stick to one state (even one hotel!) in each area. For instance, you can arrive in Delhi, travel through Agra and then Jaipur, Bundi, and Udaipur, covering this region in 8 days, and then head south to Kerala. In Kerala, you can cover Cochin and Kumarakom (cruising the backwaters) and finish off with a couple of days south of Kovalam (or, better still, in the less-discovered far north of Kerala), before flying out of Bengaluru or Mumbai.

None of the itineraries below include a trip into any of the fabulous Himalayan regions covered in this book. If you do in fact extend your time in India, make your way from Delhi to the Golden Temple in Amritsar, and then explore the remote valleys of Kinnaur, Lahaul, and Spiti before heading into surreal Ladakh; alternatively, you can take a road trip from Delhi through the picturesque Kumaon in Uttarakhand, or take off from Kolkata to Darjeeling (book the famous toy train there) and Buddhist Sikkim.

Whatever you decide to do, we highly recommend that you end your trip in one of India’s natural paradises, at least to recover from the sensual assault you’ll experience exploring the crowded and often polluted urban areas. These oases include the beaches on the Malabar coast and Goa, the backwaters of Kerala, the lunar landscapes and wooded hills of the Himalayas, and the wonderful hotels and resorts in Rajasthan.

Important:
Should limited time force you to include only the most obvious stops in your itinerary, you will invariably only make contact with those locals who depend on you for a living, which regrettably could leave you with a frustrated sense that many of India’s inhabitants are grasping, manipulative, or downright pushy. This is why it’s so important to get off the beaten tourist track, and book at least one homestay in order to experience firsthand the warmth, hospitality, and generosity of the Indian people and their culture, which celebrates an ancient philosophy of the guest as god.

1 North India Highlights in 16 Days

North India Highlights in 16 Days

Stunning Mughal architecture, heritage hotels, old palaces, forts, and colorful markets make North India an exciting experience that imparts a heady, sensory feeling in any visitor. No 2-week trip can exhaustively cover all the main sights, but this itinerary covers many of the most popular tourist attractions of northern India. It’s a hectic schedule, so keep in mind that relaxation is required between sights, if only to catch your breath and dwell on what you’ve seen before leaping forward to the next equally striking sight.

Days 1–3: Delhi

You’ll most likely arrive in Delhi in the wee hours of the morning. As a general rule, take it easy on Day 1 in India—the country takes serious acclimation. There’s no better way to ease into your trip than to start your vacation at Delhi’s finest hotel,
Aman,
a brand-new city property from one of the finest nonhotel “chains” on earth. Allow yourself a late morning on Day 2, and hire a car and driver for the day if you want to wander out for some slow-paced sightseeing. Take in central New Delhi’s imperial architecture—beginning at
India Gate,
built to commemorate those who died in World War I. From there, set off on foot along
Rajpath
to the beautifully ornate gates of
Rashtrapati Bhavan,
official residence of the president of India. Then drive south to visit the 12th-century
Qutb Minar.
For a break, escape to
Lodi Gardens,
where lawns and golfing greens are studded with the crumbling 15th-century tombs of once-powerful dynasties. A short drive west brings you to the splendid medieval buildings of
Humayun’s Tomb
(which your suite at Aman will overlook) and
Hazrat Nizamuddin Aulia.
Finally, stop off at
Dilli Haat
and check out the range of handicrafts and handmade goods sold by artisans from around India, before you seek out one of Delhi’s superb restaurants, such as
Spice Route
at another contender for the title of Delhi’s best hotel, The Imperial.

On Day 3, explore
Old Delhi (Shahjahanabad).
Must-sees include
Lal Qila (Red Fort)
and
Jama Masjid,
both built by Shah Jahan, the most prolific architect of the Mughal empire. You can also stop off at vibrant
Gauri Shankar Temple,
which has an 800-year-old lingam (a phallic symbol used in the worship of the Hindu god Shiva);
Sisganj Gurudwara,
an unassuming but atmospheric and welcoming Sikh temple that marks the spot where Guru Tegh Bahadur, the ninth Sikh guru, was beheaded by Aurangzeb; and
Sunehri
and
Fatehpuri masjids.
If you can handle the massive crowds, wander around
Chandni Chowk, Khari Baoli
(reputed to be Asia’s biggest spice market), and jam-packed
Kinari Bazaar
—but keep a close watch on your belongings at all times.

Days 4 & 5: Varanasi & Khajuraho

Fly into Varanasi, a crumbling maze of a city that rises from the
ghats
(steps) on the western banks of the Ganges River. Varanasi is in many ways quintessential India—it is one of the holiest of Indian pilgrimage sites, home of Shiva, where the devout come to wash away their sins. Many come here to die with the hope that they may achieve
moksha,
salvation of the soul from the cycle of birth, death, and rebirth. Take a
boat cruise
past the
ghats
at dawn; you can repeat this at sunset or, better still, head for
Dasashwamedh Ghat
to watch the
Ganga Fire Arti.
For 45 minutes, young Brahmin priests perform age-old prayer rituals with conch shells and burning braziers, accompanied by drummers, while children hawk candles for you to light and set adrift. Aside from these must-sees, you should set aside some time to wander the ancient lanes of the
Old City,
particularly those around
Kashi Vishwanath Temple.
When you feel the need for peace and solitude, hire a car and visit
Sarnath,
where Buddha first revealed his Eightfold Path to Nirvana; spend a few hours exploring the archaeological ruins and the modern Buddhist temple and monasteries. Overnight at
Ganges View Guesthouse
in Varanasi, a lovely, comfortable colonial lodge at the edge of the river or you could move away from the bustle and opt for the classy atmosphere at the newly opened
Nadesar Palace.
On the afternoon of Day 5, take a flight to Khajuraho. After you check in at your hotel (preferably
The Grand Temple View
), head off immediately to either the Eastern or Southern Group of temples, with Samson George as your guide.

Day 6: Khajuraho

Khajuraho is known the world over for its beautiful, taboo-breaking erotic sculptures, images that are almost as intimately associated with India as the Taj. But the temples also represent an outstanding synthesis of advanced architecture and refined sculpture. Try to enter as soon as the
Western Group
of temples opens (sunrise), not only for the light’s quality, but to avoid the busloads of tourists who will arrive later. Take your time admiring the beautifully rendered friezes of gods, nymphs, animals, and energetically twisting bodies locked together in acts of hotblooded passion. Cover the Western, Eastern, and Southern Group (unless you visited them the day before), ending your day at the 50-minute
sound-and-light show
held at 6:30pm, which provides a fascinating history of Khajuraho.

Day 7: Orchha

From Khajuraho, drive to Orchha, the deserted royal citadel of Raja Rudra Pratap, on a rocky island on the Betwa River. This is one of India’s most fabulous Mughal heritage sites and a wonderfully relaxing stop sandwiched between the intense huckster-heavy destinations of Varanasi/Khajuraho and Agra. Orchha, founded in 1531, was the capital of the Bundela kings until 1738. Today the weathered temples, palaces, and cenotaphs are the royal quarters of emerald parakeets and black-faced langurs, while traditional whitewashed, flat-roofed structures house the laid-back villagers. Besides the
palace complex,
three beautiful temples are worth seeking out, as well as 14 graceful
chhatris
(cenotaphs) commemorating the Orchha rulers, built upstream along the riverbank. Though all these can be covered in a day, get the most out of this surreally tranquil haven by spending the night at the
Orchha Resort.

Days 8 & 9: Agra

Drive to Jhansi, and take an express train to Agra, home of the
Taj Mahal.
Besides the exquisite Taj,
visit the city of
Fatehpur Sikri
and the tombs of
Itmad-ud-Daulah
and
Akbar,
as well as well-preserved
Agra Fort.
If you can afford it (and this one is worth saving up for), overnight at the Oberoi’s luxurious
Amarvilās,
where your room will have a view of the Taj Mahal. Ideally, visit the Taj at dawn and spend the whole morning there. Built by Shah Jahan as an eternal symbol of his love for his favorite wife, Mumtaz Mahal, the Taj has immortalized him as one of the great architectural patrons of the world. Not only does the Taj have perfect symmetry, ethereal luminescence, and wonderful proportions, but every inch of marble is covered in exquisite detail.