India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (283 page)

In the new part of the city lies
Ram Niwas Bagh,
the city garden, which houses a depressing zoo and aviary. At the heart of the garden lies the beautifully proportioned Albert Hall, which houses the
Central Museum
(
0141/257-0099;
Rs 35; daily 10am–4:30pm; cameras not allowed inside although from the top you’ll pay another Rs 40). Designed by the prolific architect and past master of the hybrid Indo-Saracenic style of architecture, Swinton Jacob, this is of principal interest from an architectural point of view, and a slow circular turn around the building in a car will suffice for many. That’s not to say that the exhibits are devoid of interest—the eclectic collection covers a wide range from musical instruments to bottled organs, and the tiny terra-cotta figures demonstrating myriad yoga positions are worth a look. A short drive due south lies the even stranger
Museum of Indology
(
0141/260-7455;
Rs 40, Rs 100 camera, Rs 500 video; Sat–Thurs 9:30am–4:30pm), where an incredible selection of objects—all collected in one lifetime by the writer Acharya Ram Charan Sharma “Vyakul”—has been crammed into countless dusty display cases in every nook and cranny of his house. Like a journey into the mind and thought processes of the collector himself, the collection is as eclectic as they come, including a map of India painted on a grain of rice, misprinted rupees, a 180-million-year-old fossil, a letter written by Jai Singh, and the Gayatri Mantra written on a single strand of hair. It’s a great shame more money is not available to edit and present this collection professionally.

On M.I. Road, near the Panch Batti intersection (where you’ll see a
statue of Sawai Jai Singh II
) is
Raj Mandir
(
0141/237-9372
or 0141/236-4438)—one of the most over-the-top and famous cinemas in the country. This is the place to watch a Bollywood blockbuster, though you will need to book tickets in advance to avoid waiting in line for hours. If the film is a new release, book a day in advance (daily 10am–2pm and 3–6pm). If you don’t want to sit through 3 hours of Hindi melodrama, request that the doorman let you in for a sneak peek; he may oblige for a small tip if the hall isn’t packed. Or arrive a few hours before the film, purchase your ticket, and kill time over a coffee and a pastry across the street at Barista, while you browse books on Rajasthani art and architecture, magazines, and bestsellers.

CITY ESCAPES
If the populous nature and heavy traffic of Jaipur gets to be too much, take a trip to
Amber Fort
(see below), which can be covered in a few hours. Do bear in mind, however, that even here the crush of people can be exhausting, particularly over weekends; try to get here as soon as it opens or buy a ticket just before the ticket office closes which still gives you ample time, and space, to walk around in the softer light. Time allowing, you may want to include a visit to
Jaigarh Fort
(Rs 55 City Palace entry ticket includes Jaigarh; daily 9am–4:30pm), whose walls snake high above Amber, creating a crenelated horizon. Built for defense purposes by Sawai Jai Singh II, it has a number of buildings, gardens, and reservoirs as well as the world’s largest cannon on wheels (the massive Jaivana cannon needed 100kg of powder to fire a shot) and the only surviving medieval cannon foundry, but its principal attraction is the panoramic view across Amber. You can walk to Jaigarh from Amber, a steep 20-minute climb. The path begins just below the palace entrance and branches off the windy road used by the mahouts and their two tonners. You’ll arrive at the Awani Gate, and inside on your left is the museum. You can also drive (Rs 450 return from Amber village); take the same road to get to Nahargarh, arriving at the entrance near the Jaivana cannon.

On the way to Amber you’ll see the turnoff for the imposing hilltop fort of
Nahargarh
(see “Sunset over Jaipur,” above). Also known as Tiger Fort, Nahargarh is the first of the three forts built by Maharaja Jai Sawai Singh of Jaipur in 1734 and commands great views over the city. Just below it is
Gaitor
(free admission, Rs 10 camera, Rs 20 video), a walled garden that houses the marble
chhatris
—erected over cremation platforms—of the Kachchwaha rulers. Needless to say, the most impressive one belongs to Jai Singh II. Farther along Amber Road you will see
Jal Mahal,
a lake palace originally built by Sawai Pratap Singh in 1799, who spent much of his childhood at Udaipur’s Lake Palace. Sadly, Man Sagar Lake is dry from the protracted drought, stripping it of much of its romance. If it’s romance you’re after, take a leisurely drive to
Samode Palace
(see “Where to Stay,” below; lunch Rs 500) where, after touring Diwan-i-Khas and Diwan-i-Am, you can enjoy tea in the lovely courtyard, where bold sparrows will attempt to nibble your cookies. Or enjoy a dip and a drink on their spectacular new roof terrace infinity pool, and stay for dinner in their brand-new Indian fusion restaurant.

TOP ATTRACTIONS

Amer (or Amber) Fort
Amber was the capital of the Kachchawahs from 1037 to 1727, when Sawai Jai Singh II moved the capital to Jaipur. Technically more a palace than a fort, it is said to have gotten its name from the many inlaid jewels and gemstones in the decoration of the inner sanctums of the fort. The approach is through a narrow pass, and the fort, an imposing edifice that grew over a period of 2 centuries, starting from around 1000
B.C.
, is naturally fortified by the Aravalli Hills, making it an ideal stronghold. It’s a stiff 20-minute climb to
Suraj Pol (Sun Gate)
unless you opt for an elephant ascent or a jeep ride (Rs 280 return including Rs 30 parking fee), beyond which lies a beautiful and spotless complex of palaces, halls, pavilions, gardens, and temples. Either travel by car or pretend you are of royal blood and ascend on elephant-back (Rs 600 and up) for one to four riders; if you want to take pictures of the elephants, they pose for you for around Rs 50. After entering Jaleb Chowk through Suraj Pol (more elephants take riders for a turn around the courtyard), dismount and take the flight of stairs up through
Singh Pol (Lion Gate)
to
Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience),
a raised platform with 27 colonnades. Opposite you’ll see the ornately carved silver doors leading to
Shila Devi Temple,
which contains an image of the goddess Kali, the appropriate family deity for the warring Rajput Kachchwaha. Massive, three-story, intricately decorated
Ganesh Pol (Elephant Gate)
leads to the private apartments of the royal family, built around a Mughal-style garden courtyard.
Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Palace)
—covered in mirror mosaics and colored glass—would have been the private quarters of the maharaja and his maharani, literally transformed into a glittering jewel box in flickering candlelight; guides will point out the “magic flower” carved in marble at the base of one of the pillars around the mirror palace—recognizable by the two butterflies hovering around it, the flower can be seen to contain seven unique designs (a fish tail, a lotus, a hooded cobra, an elephant trunk, a lion’s tail, a cob of corn, and a scorpion). Above is
Jas Mandir,
a hall of private audience, with floral glass inlays and alabaster relief work. Opposite, across the garden, is
Sukh Mahal (Pleasure Palace)
—note the perforations in the marble walls and channels where water was piped to cool the rooms. South lies the oldest part, the
Palace of Man Singh I.
If you want to explore the old town and its many temples, exit through Chand Pol, opposite Suraj Pol.
Note:
As is the case elsewhere, the press of bodies and noise levels can seriously detract from the experience—try to get here as soon as it opens to avoid the heat and crowds, and, if possible, avoid visiting on weekends, or better still, arrive just before the last ticket is sold where you will have more of a solitary ramble and great photo opportunities with the softer light

Tip:
Perhaps the most novel way to see the palace, fort, and its environs is with Jaipur Balloon Safaris (
0141/401192324;
www.skywaltz.com
), a new venture that has European pilots and provides aerial views of the area (Rs 12,000 per person for two people to Rs 10,000 for four).