India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (277 page)

Chapter 11: Rajasthan: Land of Princes

For many, Rajasthan is the very essence of India, with crenelated forts and impregnable palaces that rise like giant fairy-tale sets above dusty sun-scorched plains and shimmering lakes. India’s second-largest state—similar in size to France—is largely covered by the ever-encroaching Thar Desert, but despite its aridity, Rajasthan was once remarkably prosperous: Traders from as far afield as Persia and China had to cross its dry plains to reach the southern ports of Gujarat, something the warrior princes of Rajasthan were quick to capitalize on. Today the principal attraction of Rajasthan—the postindependence name for Rajputana, literally “land of princes”—is the large variety of forts and palaces its aristocrats built throughout the centuries, in usually breathtaking sites, that makes it one of the most popular destinations in India. But Rajasthan offers so much more than Rajput warrior history, desert castles and culture—from tracking down tigers in the Ranthambhore jungle (arguably the most reliable place to spot wild tigers in Asia) to gaping at the world’s most intricately carved marble temples on historic Mount Abu. Peopled by proud turbaned men and delicately boned women in saris of dazzling colors, the “land of princes” is rich with possibilities. It’s also high on contrasts: You could bed down amid some of the most sumptuous luxury on earth and then spend the day roaming ancient villages, exploring medieval marketplaces.

You could plan to spend your entire trip to India in Rajasthan, which is within easy striking distance of Delhi (and the Taj Mahal) by train, plane, or road. Certainly you’ll need at least a week to take in the major destinations, of which the lake city of Udaipur is the top highlight. If you are inclined to seek peace and tranquillity away from the larger more obvious attractions, then we recommend you amble from here along the ancient and undulating Aravalli Hills, which predate even the Himalayas, discovering its quaint, manageable villages and truly special hotels. Also vying for your time is the “blue city” of Jodhpur, which has the state’s most impressive and best-preserved fort as well as the largest palace in India; the desert fort of Jaisalmer—the only fort in the world still inhabited by villagers; the tiny but increasingly commercial town of Pushkar, built around a sacred lake and host to the biggest camel
mela
(fair) in Asia; the painted
havelis
(historic homes or mansions) of the Shekhawati region, referred to as India’s open-air gallery; the tiny Keoladeo “Ghana” National Park, which boasts the largest concentration and variety of bird life in Asia; the untainted, almost medieval atmosphere of little towns like Bundi; and the bumper-to-bumper shops and bazaars in Jaipur (the state and retail capital of Rajasthan). Shopping, in fact, is another of the state’s chief attractions: Because of the liberal patronage of the wealthy Rajput princes, skilled artisans from all over the East settled here to adorn the aristocrats and their palaces. Today these same skills are on sale to the world’s designers and travelers, and no one—from die-hard bargain-hunters to chichi fashionistas—leaves Rajasthan empty-handed. The question is how to choose from an unbelievable array of textiles, jewelry, paintings, rugs, pottery, diaries—even kitchen utensils—and then how to fit them into your bulging suitcase.

But perhaps the best reason to visit Rajasthan is to experience its unusual hotels: The state has at least 100 heritage properties—castles, palaces, forts, and ornate havelis—many of which are still home to India’s oldest monarchies. This must be the only place in the world where, armed with a credit card, you can find yourself sleeping in a king’s bed, having earlier dined with the aristocrat whose forebears built and quite often died for the castle walls that surround it. Known for their valor and honor, and later for their decadence (see “Once Were Warriors: The History of the Rajput,” below), the Rajputs are superb hosts, and it is almost possible to believe that you, too, are of aristocratic blood, as a turbaned aide awaits your every wish while you marvel at the starry night from the bastion of your castle. Long live the king (and queen), for you are it.

1 Planning Your Trip to Rajasthan

Rajasthan

Rajasthan has so much to see, with long travel distances between top sites, that a trip here requires careful planning (particularly if you hire a car and driver, which is the best way to tour the state). The following overview can help you plan your itinerary.

The three biggest cities in Rajasthan, all with airports, are
Jaipur,
the “Pink City”;
Jodhpur,
the “Blue City”; and
Udaipur,
the “White City.” All are worthwhile destinations, not least because they offer easy access to great excursions. The tiny
Jaisalmer,
or “Golden City,” is the most awkward to reach, and while some find it the highlight of their Rajasthan trip, others feel it isn’t worth the schlep it takes to get there, given the state of its decaying fort and untrammeled development beneath it.

For most, the entry point is the state capital of Jaipur, near the eastern border, which is the third point (the others being nearby Delhi and Agra) of the much-traveled
Golden Triangle.
Should you choose to start your trip here, you are in fact well positioned to visit some of Rajasthan’s top sites: Only a few hours from the city is
Ranthambhore National Park
—where you have good chances of spotting a wild tiger––and Bharatpur’s
Keoladeo National Park,
a must-see for birders (though ultimately missable for most other folk), and literally on the way from Agra. Jaipur is also within driving distance of Shekhawati and its painted towns and is also the start of the beautiful Aravalli’s that are home to some of our favorite specialty boutique hotels.

Other than its proximity to these sites, however, as well as the excellent rail and flight connections to the rest of India, the only good reason to dally in Jaipur itself is to indulge in some retail therapy. Most visitors planning to travel farther by car circle Rajasthan in a counterclockwise direction, starting off in Jaipur and traveling the rather circuitous route west to Jodhpur (with a short sojourn in Pushkar—particularly for younger travelers); then, from Jodhpur, you could make the 51⁄2- to 6-hour drive west to Jaisalmer for a few nights before you return to Jodhpur. An alternative route to Jaisalmer, which means you don’t have to travel both to and from Jodhpur, is to travel from Delhi through the Shekhawati region to Mandawa, known for its painted havelis, and from there on to Jaisalmer, before you travel east again to Jodhpur. (The other alternative is to skip Jaisalmer altogether, and if you’re short on time this is what you should do. From Jodhpur you then travel south to Udaipur lingering en route in the charming lodgings (Mihir Garh and Rawla Narlai) surrounded by the Aravalli Hills and finally, head back north to Jaipur, stopping en route at one of many lovely palace hotels (or at Shahpurah Bagh or Amanbagh) for a most relaxing end to your journey.

For someone with limited time (say, only enough to visit one of Rajasthan’s cities), it’s far better to fly direct to Udaipur—with great lodging options in all price brackets, this is arguably Rajasthan’s most attractive city (though you should check the status of the lakes, which have gone dry for an entire season in recent years, before planning your entire trip around it). From Udaipur you can take a wonderful (but long) day trip to
Kumbhalgarh Reserve
to take in Ranakpur’s exquisitely carved
Jain temples
and impressive
Kumbhalgarh Fort
before overnighting at
Devi Garh,
one of India’s most stylish hotels or push a little further into the Aravalli countryside and spend a few days at Rawla Narlai,. Alternatively, you can head east from Udaipur pausing at Shaphura Bagh for serious downtime in an otherwise city-based itinerary, via the historic fort of
Chittaurgarh,
and then move on to
Ranthambhore National Park.
Or take the short trip directly south to the relatively undiscovered
palaces of Dungarpur,
or head much further out west to
Mount Abu,
the state’s only hill station and sacred pilgrimage of the Jains, who come to visit the famous
Dilwara Temples.
Jodhpur and its majestic
Mehrangarh Fort
lie only 5 hours north of Udaipur by road, and you can break up the trip by overnighting at one of the recommended heritage properties along the way.

As mentioned, the state’s other fascinating but endangered city is Jaisalmer, which is rather inconveniently situated on the far-flung western outreaches of Rajasthan’s Thar Desert; to get there, you have to either set off from Jodhpur, or travel via the desert town of Bikaner (staying 30km outside at Gajner Palace)—both routes involve a lot of driving (Jodhpur is a 51⁄2- to 6-hr. drive away; Bikaner a 6- to 7-hr. drive). You can opt to travel from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer by overnight train, but make sure to get a berth in the air-conditioned compartment of the Delhi-Jaisalmer Express (even though the desert nights can be bitterly cold, this is your best option until Jaisalmer’s airport arrives) and carry a warm blanket.

You can fly between Rajasthan’s major cities and hire a vehicle and driver from one of the recommended operators for the duration of your stay in each region, but the long-term hire of a car and driver is highly recommended—this is really the best way to tour Rajasthan because it means you can travel at your own pace, avoid public transport (or the daily grind of haggling with taxis), and get right off the beaten track. Rajasthan’s potholed roads make for slow going, drivers have unknown rules (but clearly the big trucks and cows rule, no matter what the circumstances), and traveling by night is only for the suicidal—even day trips will have you closing your eyes in supplication to a higher being.

Many operators are reluctant to provide a breakdown of pricing, leaving you with the distinct feeling that you are being ripped off. To avoid this, get a per-kilometer rate for the specific kind of car you wish to hire, and the overnight supplement for the driver. For a trustworthy and reputable transport and logistics contact, who provides fluent English-speaking Tourist Licensed Drivers (with 3-year license reviews) at bona-fide rates, contact Indoarya (
011/2651-1634;
[email protected]). At press time, an air-conditioned car (a standard small sedan such as a Tata Indigo) and driver in Jaipur cost about Rs 1,350 for a full day (8 hr.), up to 80km (50 miles), plus a negotiated fee for every hour after that. For out-of-town trips, expect to pay Rs 7.50 to Rs 10 per kilometer plus Rs 200 per night out. A romantic way to go is in an air-conditioned Ambassador, India’s quaint homegrown brand of sedans, which provides you with a real sense of being in another world, not to mention another era. They can be unpredictable and are best used for city touring. The best organized travel company in Rajasthan is Tushita Travels Pty Ltd., and although Delhi based, they have a deep and extensive network of offices and agents throughout Rajasthan and can organize anything (
011
/2
573-0256
or -2779; fax 011/2575-2745;
www.tushita-india.com
; [email protected]). Tuhita has branches and expert agents in each of the main cities; rates may be a little pricier than you’ll find elsewhere, but they’re fixed, so there’s no bargaining, and service and local knowledge is of an excellent standard.