India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (220 page)

When you’ve had your fill of the Old City, the interiors of
Salar Jung Museum
are a cool diversion, filled with an unprecedented assortment of kitschy collectibles and works of art (see below). Also interesting for antiques-lovers is
Purani Haveli,
near the Salar Jung Museum, where several
Nizams
were born and lived. When Nawab Mir Mehboob Ali Khan, the sixth
Nizam,
lived here, he had a 73m-long (240-ft.) wooden chamber built with 150 huge cupboards (probably the world’s largest walk-in closet), to stock his extensive collection of fine clothing and shoes (also called Nizam’s Museum; Rs 70; Sat–Thurs 10am–6pm). Even better is the
Chowmohalla Palace
(daily 10:30am–5pm; Admission Rs 150), located near Charminar. Other than the enlightening photographs and other memorabilia of the Nizams (including vintage cars, amazing collection of weapons and even the original bedroom) spread through four palaces, the complex with its lovely courtyards and fountains is now used increasingly for traditional music soirees in Urdu and Persian. Next up, visit India’s second-largest mosque (purportedly the seventh largest in the world):
Mecca Masjid
(Kishan Prasad Rd., near Charminar) is said to have been built with a few bricks brought from Mecca, and attracts thousands of worshipers during
Namaaz,
Friday prayers. It’s off-limits to non-Muslims during prayers, but visitors are welcome at other times. Leave your shoes with an attendant before making your way through a long room that houses the tombs of the Nizams of the Asaf Jahi dynasty. Non-Muslims cannot enter the prayer hall but can view proceedings through a screen. In Gulzar Hauz is
Jami Masjid,
Hyderabad’s oldest functioning mosque, dating back to 1597.

Round off the day by watching the sun set over Cyberabad from white-marble
Birla Mandir
(Kalabahad Hill; free admission; daily 6am–noon and 3–9pm). Commissioned by the Birlas, India’s foremost industrial magnates, the main temple is dedicated to Lord Venkateshwara, and is pleasantly free of greedy “guides” and the like. Perched on a hilltop, it looks beautiful when lit at night.

While moving around the city, it is virtually impossible to not cross the main 16th-century
Hussain Sagar
(lake). While portions of it are not so enticing (giving out a sewage-like smell), there are cleaner and more charming areas which have become hotspots for the more trendy and upmarket local crowd. In the middle of the lake is a massive 18-meter-high (60-ft.) monolithic statue of Lord Buddha. Boat rides from different points on the lake-hugging
Necklace Road
take you to the rock on which the statue has been affixed (speedboat Rs 160 for four persons; ferry Rs 30).

If you’re here for another day, consider a half-day excursion to the
Ramoji Film City
(Rs 300; be there before 2pm) for an amusing and interesting exposure to the South Indian film industry. It’s packed with local star-struck tourists, and you have a good chance of coming face to face with the top actors of the day—one of their song-and-dance sequences may just be the highlight of the trip. (Check to see what’s on by calling
040/2341-2262;
www.ramojifilmcity.com
.) If all you want is to find yourself in a green lung, the best option lies in the middle of the city: The semiforested
KBR Park
is a wonderful place for an early morning walk.

Golconda Fort
Sitting at an elevated height on the outskirts of Hyderabad, Golconda—seat of the Qutb Shahis—was once a magnificent citadel and center of the world diamond trade. The fort took 62 years to build, and when it fell to Aurangzeb in 1687, he tore the place apart looking for diamonds and gold. Left to the birds of prey that circle high above the once-daunting battlements, Golconda would have become a tranquil retreat were it not for its popularity with visitors, who noisily explore the ramparts of Hyderabad’s most illustrious attraction. That’s why it’s best if you visit it as soon as it opens, or around twilight (when it’s far cooler and the dimming evening sky sheds a mysterious aura over the stone ruins).

Enclosing the graffiti-smeared remains of bazaars, homes, fields, barracks, armories, mosques, camel stables, Turkish baths, and water reservoirs, the battlements incorporate 87 bastions and extend some 5km (3 miles) in circumference. Four of the original eight gates are still in use; present-day visitors enter via the
Bala Hissar gate
—large teakwood doors with metal spikes designed to withstand charging elephants. Guides can assist by demonstrating the tremendous acoustics of the structure—a clap here is heard clearly when you are at the fort’s highest point, 1km (1⁄2 mile) away; this was once an invaluable security-cum-intercom system. The Royal Palace complex comprises buildings constructed by the Qutb Shahi kings during different periods. Most are decorated with floral designs, glazed tilework on the walls, and cut-plaster decorations indicative of the Qutb Shahi style. Sadly, where royalty once went about their daily lives, rats, bats, garbage, grime, and tourists have taken over. At the top of the fort is the
Baradari,
reached by three stone stairways. As you make your way up, look along the walls for the remains of limestone pipes once part of a sophisticated plumbing system that used Persian wheels to carry water up the hill, so that it could be piped in for bathing, flushing cistern systems, and keeping the palace cool. The climb to the top is worth it for the excellent views alone.

The fort hosts an extremely popular
sound-and-light show
that recounts the history of Golconda using the illuminated ruins as a backdrop. There are performances in English each night; but be warned that power failures can disrupt the performance—and be sure to take insect repellent.

Situated 6km (3 3⁄4 miles) west of the city.
040/2351-2401.
Admission Rs 100. Tues–Sun 10am–7pm. English sound-and-light show: Admission Rs 40. Mar–Oct daily 7–8pm; Nov–Feb daily 6:30–7:30pm. Tickets available 30 min. before the show; line up early.

Getting a Good Guide

You’ll be confronted by many would-be guides at the entrance to the Golconda Fort—ask around for
M. D. Rathmath
or
Shaikh Rajiv,
who both have a good grasp of English. The going rate is around Rs 350 for 2 to 3 hours (you could up this to Rs 450 if the service is really good). At the end of the day, the guides gather on the lawn outside the fort entrance, near the ticket booth; join them if you’re interested in learning more about Hyderabad culture.

Salar Jung Museum
Marketed as the world’s largest private collection of art, artifacts, and antiques, this eclectic assortment of more than 30,000 different exhibits was assembled by Salar Jung III, who served as prime minister
(wazir)
to the Nizam of Hyderabad. It’s a truly fascinating collection—particularly the textiles and fine art section, which includes a fine collection of Indian miniature paintings demonstrating the evolution of styles and the differences between Rajput, Deccan, Pahari, and Mughal paintings, though the displays are somewhat disorganized. One of the most valuable pieces must be a 9th-century edition of the
Koran,
written in beautiful Kufic script. The weaponry collection includes a diamond-encrusted sword used ceremonially by the Salar Jungs, as well as pieces used by Mughal emperors. There’s something to be said for the sheer profusion of design objects, ranging from boxes studded with precious gems and vessels blown from Indo-Persian glass to a chair made of solid ivory, a gift from Louis XV to Tipu Sultan. In one room, large crowds are drawn to a famous musical clock with a toy watchman who emerges from behind a door every hour in time to beat a melodious gong. Give yourself at least 90 minutes to explore.