India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (108 page)

La Plage
FRENCH/FUSION This charming slice of Gaul is the wave-making venue established by the owners of erstwhile Le Restaurant Francais (always one of our Goan favorites). Now the fun-loving accidental restaurateurs Morgan, Florence, and Serge have transplanted the elegant yet laid-back atmosphere brought with them from the Continent to a lovely location on Asvem Beach. Occupying a cluster of shacks amid tall palm trees with thatched roofs and, for walls, sheer blue and yellow curtains billowing in the breeze, you sit on deck chairs at simple white tables and are serenaded by mellow tunes. The ambience might be relaxed, but the menu is a promise of a luxurious, memorable meal, and Chef Morgan certainly delivers. Tender fillets of tuna, served rare and encrusted with sesame seeds and drizzled with a sweet-tangy soy sauce; or calamari stuffed with ratatouille; and another stand-out favorite has got to be sardine filets with wasabi cream. The menu features innovative dishes concocted by Morgan, who likes to “escape” (read: “experiment”), so menus change regularly. More must-tries include tiger prawn carpaccio with fresh vanilla oil, and filet of sardines on phyllo pastry with mint coulis. Be sure to leave space for the addictive chocolate cake, whose recipe Morgan once used as
baksheesh
at airport Customs.

Asvem Beach, near Papa Jolly Hotel, Aswem, Morjim.
98-2212-1712.
[email protected]. Main courses Rs 260–Rs 690. No credit cards. Daily 9:30am–9:30pm. Closed May to mid-Nov.

SHOPPING

Besides the vibrant markets (see “Shopping the Global Village Markets” box), north Goa has several stores worth checking out.
Casa Goa
is a stylish boutique featuring luxuriously comfortable fashion items by celebrated Goan designers Wendell Rodricks, Rajesh Pratap Singh, and Brigitte Singh as well as local artwork, silk drapes, restored furniture, a variety of antiques, and prints of Mario Miranda’s cartoons (Cobra Vaddo, Calangute-Baga Rd.;
0832/228-1048
). Then take a look at
Leela Art Palace
nearby;
with any luck, proprietor Ravi will be in. You might find yourself agreeing to accompany him on an exotic journey into some of the country’s remotest regions, where he regularly treks to source tribal art. Also in Calangute,
Subodh Kerkar Art Gallery,
run by Goa’s well-known watercolorist, showcases contemporary Indian art including ceramics, hand-painted chests, and Rajasthani sculptures (Gauro Vaddo;
0832/227-6017
). Each Tuesday, an interesting classical dance and music performance is held at the gallery (6:45–8pm; Rs 300).

Located in a 200-year-old Portuguese mansion,
Sangolda
is the lifestyle boutique venture by Claudia and Hari Ajwani, the dynamic duo behind the beautiful Nilaya Hermitage and Fort Tiracol hotels; here you can shop for unusual home accessories and furniture sourced from all over India—from Keralan rattan loungers to Rajasthani chests. Attached is a gallery-cum-coffee-shop (E2–6 Chogm Rd., Sangolda;
0832/240-9310
). Design junkies should also definitely make an effort to visit
Monsoon Heritage
, a contemporary studio created by internationally renowned designers Yahel Chirinian and Doris Zacheres (selected as one of the 23 most happening designers in the world by
UrbanO
magazine), who pair huge discarded tropical trees with mirrors and glass to create exclusive design pieces for the (very) rich and famous. You’ll find their showrooms in Paris and Santa Monica, but their main base (and inspiration) is right here (601 Fernand Wado, Porvorim, Bardez;
0832/651-5298;
www.monsoonheritage.com
). Another unique duo is Sonja Weder and Thomas Schnider, who use eco-friendly materials as much as possible and create some very striking articles ranging from furniture to lotus-leaf lazy Susans and a whole range of wall objects and gorgeous lamp shades—all of it available at
Soto Décor
(Sotohaus, 1266/f, Anna Vaddo, Candolim;
98-2298-3321;
www.sotodecor.com
). Nearby is a fun boutique called
Happily Unmarried
(
93-2512-2150
), where you can pick humorous knickknacks—strictly for singles. Janota is the label for the unconventional footwear of
Edward Pinto
(Janota, Adleia Aurino, Povorim;
0832/241-2129;
www.janotagoa.com
). He and his designer wife, Angela, have a seasonal store called “The Haystack” in Arpora (10am–8pm), while their studio is at Aldeia Aurino (near Damian de Goa, Porvorim, Bardez;
0832/241-2129;
9am–7pm). They also have a stall at Ingo’s Saturday Nite Bazaar. If you love shoes, make every effort to pick up a pair of Pinto’s.