India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (117 page)

WHERE TO STAY

In the southernmost reaches of the state, there is only one large resort, and quite frankly it’s a huge disappointment, particularly since it commandeers such a gorgeous stretch of beach—Raj Baga. You could subject yourself to the substandard service and atrocious architecture at
The InterContinental Lalit Goa Resort,
which is overrated,
but that would be doing yourself an immense disservice, not to mention locating yourself just a little too far (around 3km/2 miles) from the action; frankly, this is probably the least appealing of the five-star resorts in Goa—if you
must
stay in a large resort, choose one of those along the central part of the coast (see above).

In Palolem you’ll have to venture back to nature at one of a handful of budget-chic options (such as the wonderful
Bhakti Kutir
eco-resort, reviewed below), or try
The
Village Guesthouse
(reviewed below), which brings a touch of style to a traditionally rustic and earthy lodging scene. There are plenty more down-home options hereabouts, but if you fancy a bit of honest-to-goodness glamour thrown in with your beachfront idyll, look no further than the
Turtle Lounge
(see below) in Agonda. On the other side of Palolem, Patnem is a peaceful and lovely beach with very few hassles; the best place to stay is
Home
(
0832/264-3916;
www.homeispatnem.com
; $30–$47 double), operated by a laid-back Swiss couple. Accommodations all have attached bathrooms and are scrupulously clean, if quite basic; the restaurant is also Patnem’s best.

Bhakti Kutir
Described by some as “hippie-chic,” this is by far Palolem’s most atmospheric and eco-friendly option, though don’t expect any real luxury. It’s the brainchild of Panta Ferrao, a Goan lawyer who (aided by his German wife, Ute) dropped out to start an ecologically sensitive resort that would empower local people with skills and provide relatively comfortable accommodations. The mud-plastered bamboo “cottages” are made entirely from natural materials, with en-suite toilet facilities—squat toilets (organic, of course) and bucket showers. Try to book room no. 6, which is built on different levels; no. 8, a double-story unit with an upstairs balcony; or the “stone house” (built with Panta’s German in-laws in mind) with more traditionally Western facilities (like a toilet). Come prepared for mosquitoes, dark pathways, and plenty of back-to-nature experiences. Workshops and cooking classes are held for those wishing to extend their knowledge of local culture; so too an assortment of esoteric activities like Ayurvedic treatments, yoga, and meditation. They’ve added an alternative school to keep the kids happy and busy.

296, Colomb, Palolem, Canacona 403 702.
0832/264-3469
or -3472. Fax 0832/264-5211.
www.bhaktikutir.com
. 22 units. Oct Rs 600–Rs 2,000; Nov and Mar Rs 1,200–Rs 2,500; Dec–Feb Rs 1,800–Rs 4,000. Rates exclude taxes. Rates are flexible in the low season and much higher Dec 15–Jan 15. No credit cards.
Amenities:
Restaurant; amphitheater, bar; airport transfers (Rs 1,200); Ayurvedic and healing center w/massage, yoga, meditation, mud baths, cooling baths; babysitting; children’s playschool; small library; pool table; tailor. In room: No phone.

Turtle Lounge
A wonderful discovery on still-unspoiled Agonda Beach, Turtle Lounge consists of just two to-die-for split-level wooden bungalows set on the edge of the beach next to a gorgeous little restaurant-bar of the same name. Owned and designed by Bernd Slotta, a German fashion photographer and stylist, they’re immaculate and spacious, really putting the rest of the beach hut scene to shame. Bernd has imbued both spaces with real style: beautiful fabrics, rich colors, and clever use of light to create a romantic atmosphere. There are no frills or hotel-like accoutrements; nor are there any in-room amenities (including hot water or mosquito nets), but the glossy design (with very sexy bathrooms), ultracomfy beds, and perfect setting more than make up for this. Leave the door of your upstairs bedroom open at night and fall asleep with the moon-kissed sea in full view, the dull slosh of waves an ever-present soundtrack. The equally stylish little restaurant has a limited but good menu, and the bar—with a chandelier dangling from the palm tree—is sociable without being overwhelming. Service is, if anything, overzealous.

Agonda Beach, Canacona 403 702.
94-2125-7165
or -7164.
www.turtle-lounge.com
. 2 units (shower only). Rs 5,000–Rs 8,000 double. No credit cards. Open mid-Nov (weather permitting) through mid-May.
Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; airport transfers (Rs 1,200); room service. In room: No phone.

The Village Guesthouse
It’s not on the beach, but it’s the only place in Palolem with actual style, not to mention fabulous, modern bathrooms, and healthful breakfasts (real coffee, good tea, homemade muesli). The guesthouse occupies an unlikely looking property (and a very kitsch-looking double-story house) in Palolem village, leased from a local family and operated by a lovely Anglo-Irish couple who’ve spent years chilling out in Palolem, and finally decided to bring some dignity to the lodging scene. Inside, the atmosphere and decor is Zen-minimalist—there’s ample space, assorted Buddha statuary, framed black and white photographs, and fresh, modern, all-white rooms with frame-style poster beds brightened by a single colorful throw atop quality linens. There’s plenty of solar-heated hot water, and as we’ve hinted already, exceptional showers.