[? Feb 1995]
E
YELESS EN PLAYAâ¦
.
Half-dark. Dirt floor. A bed. Light slants through a weft of wattleâfine strands of bright thread stretched on a loom. Bright activity beyond. Children. Chickens. Water's throaty run into a drum. A woman laughs, the slap of wet cloth.
I am naked, I am hurt. I am safe.
Please make it all a dream.
Where is the sea �
Sleep.
I wake to a shadowflow along the wattle wall outside. It cuts through the lightstrands like a scythe. At the door a blast of whiteness. He slides through, dressed in it.
How are you feeling, Beulah �
Feeling â¦
I was afraid you would not come with me.
And if I didn't want to?
I would have left you.
I didn't want to.
But you came.
You called my name.
Yes, Beulah.
How did you know?
You don't remember me at all?
No, how did you know
how?
¿Cómo?
How to call for me. He doesn't understand, how could he?
The children are washing your dress. My cousin says she can fix the hem. Your other things are there beside you. Ah, I see you have found your notebook.
You knew where I was.
Everyone knew in all Tulum. I stay with a family not far down the beach.
Tell me what you saw.
Tell me please ⦠how much
.
Later we can talk.
You're going?
To make a coffee. Espresso or cappuccino?
You have a machine, for espresso ⦠here.
A real beauty.
He walks barefoot to the door, soles white as his palms.
I sit, sip, clean white sheet wedged under my arms. His onyx eyes. He sips to cover his curiosity. How is it?
Hotâ¦.
Children at the door, shy faces peering round the bright frame.
All Maya villages have cappuccino I guess.
This is not a village, this is the capital. A friend with a restaurant went bankrupt. He owed some favoursâ
What
capital?
Carillo Puerto. We are ten minutes' walk from the legislature. I can show you if you like. The seat of our democracy. You don't want to get dressed? Of course, your dress is not quite dry.
My dress is ⦠filthy.
I can lend you something. We are about the same size.
It's good that you slept again. No do not worry, I can make you another later. You have a slight fever. If you would like to take that walk now we can get something for it.
Poultice, spider webs?
I was thinking of tetracycline. Here try theseâor I can give you jeans.
We call these pants ____. I just thought with the burn on your calf â¦
the short cuff wouldn't rub. Do you like them?
Burns ⦠but no bitesâ¦. What happened, what happened last night?
You can stay if you want.
No, you should have privacy.
See? A good fit, just as I thought. A bit loose in the waist of course. Meet the children. Ernesto. Rico. The toddlers Beto, Magy.
Little jesters. How do I say hello in Maya? Hello. Too excited to speak they chase chickens. Sprint-waddle pursuit, they toddle like ducks after hens, that spurt just out of reach. Many glances to check the effectâforeigners may be more difficult to please. They can do other things. Climb trees. Jostle and jockey and joust at the trunk of a little
limonera
. Beto
stumbles, cries. Their mother comes out, shoos them into the house. Jacinto's cousin, Soledad.
Me da mucho gusto, Byula
. I hope we did not wake you with the laundry. The water came.
We get water for two hours. Sometimes twice a week. Today Soledad and all the other women of the barrio do laundry.
Concrete basin, border of flowered tiles. Droplets glide from an iron pipe. Glitter and fall. The barrio a maze of cane fences chest high. Wattle huts. Dirt yards combed by brooms. Neighbour women kneel to spread prayer mats of laundry over washboards.
These are all fruit trees.
Yes each yard has a tree. We have limes, los Perera have mangoes. Pomegranate there, you know it? In each season we share what we have. One tree is too much for even half a dozen families. Papaya, this one everyone recognizesâa giraffe in a gourd hat,
verdad?
So much fruit it is ready to snap. A little heartbreaking, no? this bounty of trees.
That starvation is so â¦
Unnecessary? Yes, but the sheer
charity
. We do so little to earn. Come let me show you the rest of my neighbourhood.
You are different with me now.
How, different?
Not so polite.
You prefer rudeness?
It felt like dislike. Like the Captain.
Captain Höflich. They call themselves marines, trained by the Americans. The body armour is the latest American technology. Even the shields and visors are bulletproof.
Riot gear, out on the beach?
I think they call it
contra-insurgencia
now, this old work they do.
But there are no crowds.
It is mostly for effectâ¦. My courtesy with you was only caution. It is a small moment of danger.
What is?
The moment when someone is no longer quite a stranger.
I'll remember.
Not quite a friend.
Buenas tardes, don Jacinto
.
Buenas tardes, don Jacinto
.
Buenas tardes, don Jacinto
.
Everyone calls you that.
It is also courtesy.
It seems like more.
What is more than courtesy? Do you like chicken barbecued?âthose women up ahead have a secret sauce. They are teachers, but sell chickens on their lunch breaks. The chickens earn more than their salaries. The little one teaches chemistry. I think the recipe is hers.
Buenas tardes, don Jacinto
. Won't you introduce us to your friend?
All three have secret sauces for you, don Jacinto, if you only knew
.
We reach the barrio market. Over cinderblock pilings a tin roof incandesces sun. Foul flesh and bone shop of darkling meat, fat sallowing. Flystorms buzz a cyclonic fury, exasperated fizz. Cages of songbirds, lizards next door.
People here can pay for these birds?
No, he will sell them to anyone going to Mérida or Cancún. They can make a small profit.
The lizards?
Geckos, for insects. Especially scorpions, they say, though I have never seen them eat one myself.
We walk past a flower vendor. A fruit stall. Baskets heaped with nuts, a weave of gore.
Thisâwhat's that on her hands, blood?
Cochineal. They are beetles.
To eat?
No to dye. For fabrics. They grow all over a kind of cactus, in a white cocoon. When they come out their bodies are filled with a deep wine red. We dilute it with lemon to get the right shade. Here crush one betweenâ
No â¦
thank you, I see.
If it is insects you wish to eat, come over here.
Can we go somewhere else. Please?
The cultural centre is nearby. We could walk there if you like.
Ever the guide.
It is my home I am showing you.
Dusty streets, inland heat, each sunbeam a bright cudgel of reproof.
Smashed sidewalk tectonics all along a block-long wall, windowless, pitted, pale pink. Peeling posters of faded bullfights, political careers. We step from floe to floe, cement overthrust on roots of unseen treesâthirst as jackhammerâ¦.
Here?
In the middle of the block one door, cracked, sunsplitâand we step into the lush miracle of a courtyard. Sprays of bougainvillaeaâpink, orange, red. Arcade of bleached columns and dim doorways, patio flagged in limestone, worn smooth, sprouting weeds. Rows of children's desks against a wall. Broken backs, warped plywood tabletops. At the far end a palm-thatch palapa over a desk ⦠massive, battered, ceremonious.
My office. We needed the rooms for classes. During breaks the children use the desk as a football goal. Not impressive I am afraid.
It's big.
Mostly patio. The rooms are small.
Are those all mango trees?
In season the children sell them but in season most people here have mangoes. We do better with the pies. This is the library. When there is electricity you can even read in there. Half the time the power is out, half the time we do not pay our bill. Sometimes we only have power in half the centre. No one can explain why. Or half-explain. We keep the desks out here in the middle, move them to where there is light. Our classes are mostly evenings. Often we use torches. Very atmospheric. The children like it, the adults lessâ¦. Come let me present you to the sub-director. She is a whirlwind you may like.
Don Jacinto! I did not expect, I thought you were in Tulum this month.
Patricia, te presento a Beulah Limosneros. Una colega del Canadá
.
Squat smiling matron rising from her desk, handshake crush, free hand to her heart. Wide oval face, almond eyes, puffy lips and lids. Friendly amphibian in her hollow of battered filing cabinets and AeroMexico posters of pyramids. One small window high in the cell, too high to clean. Dirty light drains in.
So you are a scholar. Welcome. We have a lot of research projects but little manpower. Are you staying long?
No.
A pity. Though we couldn't pay you anyway. The property taxes slowly kill us. They follow inflation, about twenty-five percent a year. Funding does not. Of course the government wants to build a new centre. They
are all the sameâvery happy to fund health and culture but only in construction projects. No kickbacks you see from nurses' salaries or teachers. No fat contributions. They call it infrastructure development. It must be very different
en Canadá
.
Her eyes glint with this.
But the authorities remember this city was once Chan Santa Cruz, headquarters of the Maya resistance. They do not cut our funding altogetherâthey are afraid don Jacinto will become a
Zapatista
â
Have you?
No no that was only a joke but they know he is a friend of Commander Marcosâhas don Jacinto brought you for the play in San Andrés tomorrow? It is classic agitprop, we are teaching the children about dengue and malaria. How the little mosquitoes breed in anything that holds rainwaterâspare tires, styrofoam cups. I play an old drunk who loses his cup. Don Jacinto can be our spare tire. Would you like to play the sun, Beulah? The children have made a beautiful sun mask. You don't have to say any linesâbut you can of course. Do you speak a Maya language? I have not even asked you what type of
investigadora
you areâ
Slow down please, Patricia. We will see. I am not sure about Beulah's plans.
Cherryred pickup, cloud of percussion and dust. “Don Jacinto,
¿qué onda?
âlift home?” Three black men in heavy gold chains, long fingernails for concert guitar and drag shows, three gleaming helmets of straightened hair. Gold bracelets, gold rings. Gym shorts and watered silk blouses, empty eyes. Voodoo dolls in marijuana cologne.