How to Eat (88 page)

Provolone-stuffed eggplant (involtini), 361–62

Prunes, muskily spiced, marsala muscovado custard with, 330–32

Puddings

chocolate

gooey, 169

steamed seven-minute, 189–90

sticky, 200

mascarpone, rum, and lime cream, 173

Mont Blanc, 176

panna cotta, scented, with gooseberry compote, 45–47

pig’s bum, 291–92

queen of puddings, Christmas, 65–66

rice, 261–62

rice, risotto-inspired, 157

syllabub, quince, 113–14, 244

zabaglione, 154

See also
Custard; Fools; Trifles; Yorkshire pudding

Pumpkin purée, 355

Quail

eggs and new potatoes, 424

lacquered, 389–90

marinated flattened, 133–34

Queen of puddings, 65–66

Quinces, 47–48, 326

mostarda di Venezia, 48–49

poached in muscat, 329–30

syllabub, 113–14, 244

Rabbit, Peter Rabbit in Mr. McGregor’s salad, 131

Raspberries, 235

chocolate pudding cake, 316–17

and cream, 191

fool, 191

tart, Bakewell, with fresh, 264–65

trifle, proper English, 109–11

Ratatouille, 102–4

Red currants

mint, and orange jelly, 275

and peach salad, 325–26

Refrigerator, foods in, 72–73, 370

Rhubarb, 232–33

butterscotch tart, 285

crumble, 41

custard, 309–10, 311–12

ice cream, 309, 311–12

jelly, and muscat, 310, 312–13

meringue pie, 234–35

pig’s bum, 291–92

tarte Tatin, Irish, 229, 231–32

trifle, muscat, mascarpone and, 107–9

Rice, 167, 380

chicken, with egg and lemon sauce and, 362–63

children’s recipes, 421–22, 441–42

foolproof, 272

pudding, 261–62

pudding, risotto-inspired, 157

See also
Risotto

Ricotta with honey and toasted pine nuts, 172

Risotto

mushroom, 441–42

mushroom, restrained, 392–93

pea, 140–41

Rosemary

and anchovy mayonnaise, 257–58

oil, -infused, 258

red mullet with garlic and, 168–69

sea bass, baked, with, 263–64

Ru

mascarpone, and lime cream, 173

sauce, iced, 60

Salad dressings, 197

anchovy, 354

Dijon mustard, 394–95

French, basic, 24

garlic, roast, and lemon, 395

green goddess, little gems with, 332–33

miso-mustard, 394

miso, thick, for beans, 395

plain, 23

Salads

beef, hot-and-sour, Cambodian, 385

beet, shredded, with yogurt, 391–92

bitter, 354, 204

Caesar, 307–8

chestnut and pancetta, 326–27

chicory and mustard, 318

couscous, 350

green, 23–24, 197, 261, 315–16

green, with green beans, 276–77

improvised, 161–62

little gems with green goddess dressing, 332–33

Mr. McGregor’s, Peter Rabbit in, 131

niçoise, 127–28

pea, mint, and avocado, 343

peppers, grilled, 337–38, 375

salmon and bacon, 127

seaweed and noodle, 383–84

spinach, bacon, and raw mushroom, 262

tabbouleh, 236–37, 290

tomato, 23, 197, 259, 376, 378

See also
Fruit salads

Salmon, 375, 379

baked in foil, 289–90

deglazing sauce, 154

scallops with warm balsamic vinaigrette, 184–85

fishcakes, 442–43

salad, and bacon, 127

smoked, 196, 415

sugar-spiced, with Chinese hot mustard, 379–80

Salsa

orange, duck with, 177–78

verde, 181–83

Sauces

anchovy, pasta with, 148–49

avgolemono, 200

béarnaise, 16–17

béarnaise, steak, 136

béchamel, 19–21

bread, 58–59

caper, for roast lamb, 281–82

cheese, 20

cooking in advance, 86

cranberry, 59

deglazing, 164

duck liver, 438

egg and lemon, chicken, with rice and, 362–63

hollandaise, 14–15

horseradish, 250

horseradish, fresh, with chives, 265–66

maltaise, 15–16

onion, 269–70

parsley, 20–21

pasta, with sausage, 439

tomato, 71–72

tomato, meatballs in, 434–37

vegetable, vegetable curry in, 396–97

white, 21, 268–69

See also
Dessert sauces; Gravy; Mayonnaise; Pesto; Salsa

Sauerkraut, choucroute garnie, 243–44

Sausages, 268

choucroute garnie, 243–44

hot, with ice-cold oysters, 313–14

and mashed potatoes, 176, 245

pasta sauce with, 439

See also
Chorizo

Sauternes

custard, baked, 217–18, 339–40

and lemon balm jelly, 337, 341–42

Scallops

and bacon, 128

with bitter orange, 44

deglazing sauce, 154

Seaweed and noodle salad, 383–84

Semolina, baked, 155–56

Shallots, roasted whole, 9, 62

Shellfish.
See
Clams; Crab; Mussels; Oysters; Scallops; Shrimp

Shepherd’s pie, 429–32

Shiitake mushrooms.
See
Mushrooms

Shortbread, 247–48

Shrimp

and beans, 416

cakes, fried, 130

and eggplant crostini, 304

frozen, 68

with garlic and chili pepper, 129

Santa Barbara, warm, mashed potatoes, truffle oil and, 68

Slump, summer, 280

Smoked salmon, 196, 415

Sole with chanterelles, 172–73

Sorrel, chickpeas with, 150

Soufflé, pea, 142–43

Soups

bean, black, 81–82

bean and pasta, 444

beet, 392

butternut squash and pasta, 144

chicken, cream of, 143–44

chickpea and pasta, 79–80

children’s recipes, 417, 422, 444

chili beef noodle, aromatic, 381–82

consommè, 82–84

cooking in advance, 77–79

freezing bones for, 9, 69

Italian broth (brodo), 84–85

lentil and chestnut, 64

lettuce and lovage, 11

minestrone, 214, 215–17

mushroom udon, 382

parsnip, 78

pea, 162

and lettuce, 347–48

split, 78, 80–81, 214

tomato and rice, 422

vegetable, 21–22

vegetable miso broth, 389

See also
Stock

Spaghetti

aglio olio, 145–46

carbonara, 146–47

Spanish stew, 360

Spinach, 270

for babies, 413, 414

with lemon, warm, 345–46

mayonnaise, 14

salad, bacon, raw mushroom and, 262

Sponge cake

Victoria, 24–25

See also
Trifles

Squash, butternut, and pasta soup, 144

Squid with chili and clams, 171–72

Steaks.
See
Beef, steak

Stews

beef, braised in beer, 397–98

beef with anchovies and thyme, 100, 265

cawl, 94–95

chicken and chickpea tagine, 99

chicken, with couscous, 207–8

couscous, root-vegetable, golden, with chorizo, 204–7

Irish, 358–59

lamb and bean braise, 139–40

lamb, Greek, 95–97

mushroom ragoût, 202–3

oxtail with stout and marjoram, 92–93

pheasant with gin and it, 333–35

pheasant with mushrooms and bacon, braised, 101

Spanish, 360

venison in white wine, 97–98

Stock, 9, 69

chicken, 9–11

ham, 78, 141

Strawberries in dark syrup, 346

Stuffings, 267–68

chestnut, 54

cranberry and orange, 55

potato, 53

Sugar, vanilla, 72

Syllabub, quince, 113–14, 244

Tabbouleh, 236–37, 290

Tagine, chicken and chickpea, 99

Tagliatelle with chicken from the Venetian ghetto, 362

Taramasalata, 239

Tarts

apple butterscotch, 285

apple, translucent, 277–78

Bakewell, with fresh raspberries, 264–65

crab and saffron, 227–28

custard, 287–89

jam, 449–50

onion, 353–54

Seville orange curd, 246

tarte Tatin, Irish, 229, 231–32

treacle, 266–67

Thai clam pot, 387–88

Thai-flavored mussels, 386–87

Tiramisu, white, 111–12

Tomatoes

in ratatouille, 102–4

salad, 23, 197, 259, 376, 378

sauce, 71–72

sauce, meatballs in, 434–37

soup, and rice, 422

Treacle tart, 266–67

Trifles

proper English, 109–11

Trifles
(continued)

rhubarb, muscat, and mascarpone, 107–9

white tiramisu, 111–12

Trout Chambéry, 181

Truffle oil

mashed potatoes, and warm Santa Barbara shrimp, 68

pasta with butter, cream, parmesan and, 163

potatoes, new, with, 260–61

Truffles, white, 49

Tuna

and beans, 196, 416

salad niçoise, 127–28

tataki of, 379

Turkey

hash, Ed Victor’s, 61–62

meatballs, and ham, 436

roast, 55–56

stuffings, 54–55

Turkish delight figs, 351

Udon mushroom soup, 382

Vanilla

custard, 32

ice cream, 33–34

sugar, 72

Veal

deglazing sauce, 154

and ham pasta, baked, 87–88

liver, and bacon pie, 432–34

Vegetables

children’s recipes, 413–14, 419–20, 424, 443–44

clapshot with burnt onions, 287

curry in vegetable sauce, 396–97

with ginger and garlic, 376

greencakes, 443–44

minestrone, 214, 215–17

miso broth, 389

organic, 73

ratatouille, 102–4

root-, couscous, golden, with chorizo, 204–7

soup, 21–22

See also specific vegetables

Vegetarians, 306

Venison

roast fillet, 327–29

in white wine, 97–98