How to Eat (86 page)

with morels, 135–36

noodle, 145

one-pan, 360–61

patties, 439

pie, 440–41

poached, with salsa verde, 166

poussin, 423

with rice, and egg and lemon sauce, 362–63

roast, 7–9, 267–68

gingered, 198

tarragon French, 271

salad, gingered roast, 198

with scallions, chili, and yogurt, 187–89

soup, cream of, 143–44

stewing hens, 83

stew with couscous, 207–8

stock, 9–11

strips, 426–27

tagliatelle with, from the Venetian ghetto, 362

tenderest, 315

wings, garlic, 239–40

Chicken liver

for children, 415–16

crostini, 300–301

Chickpeas

and chicken tagine, 99

couscous, and cherries, 186

hummus with seared lamb and toasted pine nuts, 237–39

lamb with, 348–50

in microwave, 167

and pasta soup, 79–80

soaking, 78–79

with sorrel, 150

Chicory and mustard salad, 318

Children

cooking with, 446–50

introducing solids, 411–16

party foods, 450–55

recipes for, 416–45

Chili (peppers)

beef noodle soup, aromatic, 381–82

chicken, with scallions, yogurt and, 187–89

chile con carne, clove-hot, 437–38

harissa, 208–9

shrimp, with garlic and, 129

squid with clams and, 171–72

Chocolate, 26

cake, birthday, 25–27, 452–53

cake, pudding, raspberry, 316–17

ground, with ice cream, 167, 183

ice cream, 34–35

mousse, 444–45

puddings

gooey, 169

steamed seven-minute, 189–90

sticky, 200

Chorizo

kale with poached egg and, 149–50

root-vegetable couscous, golden, with, 204–7

Spanish stew, 360

Choucroute garnie, 243–44

Christmas recipes, 49–67

Clams

cod with, 124–25

linguine with, 123–24

pot, Thai, 387–88

squid with chili and, 171–72

Clapshot with burnt onions, 287

Clementine cake, 66–67

Coca-cola, ham in, 293–94

Coconut crème caramel, 209–11

Cod

black, marinated in den miso, 385

with clams, 124–25

and peas, 426

roast, with pea purée, 175–76

wrapped in ham, 323

Compote, gooseberry, panna cotta with, 45–47

Consommè, 82–85

Cookies

children’s party, 453–55

langue de chat, 19

macaroons, 19

madeleines, Proust’s, 346–47

periwinkles, 450

pistachio crescents, 351–52

shortbread, 247–48

Coq au vin, half-, 398–99

Cottage pie, 429–32

Couscous

cherried and chickpea’d,186

chicken stew with, 207–8

for children, 418

root-vegetable, golden, with chorizo, 204–7

salad, 350

Crab

linguine with, 393–94

and saffron tart, 227–28

Cranberry

and orange stuffing, 55

sauce, 59

Cream

Barbados, 117, 250

blackberries and, 281

of chicken, soup, 143–44

lemon, 247

lime, mascarpone, and rum, 173

passion fruit, yogurt, and honey, 211

pasta with butter, parmesan, truffle oil and, 163

raspberries and, 191

whipped, with berries and meringue, 167

Yorkshire pudding with syrup and, 256, 259–60

Crème caramel, coconut, 209–11

Crêpes, 35–36

Parmentier with marinated smoked haddock, 219, 220–21

Crostini, 299–300

toppings for, 300–304

Crumbles

apple, 41

apple and walnut, 156–57

blueberry or blackberry, 41

rhubarb, 41

topping for, 41–42

Curd

lemon, 30–31

passion fruit, 31

Seville orange tart, 246

Curry, vegetable, in vegetable sauce, 396–97

Custard, 31–32

banana, 225–26

crème caramel, coconut, 209–11

lemon cream, 247

marsala muscovado, with muskily spiced prunes, 330–32

real, 32–33

rhubarb, 309–10, 311–12

sauternes, baked, 217–18, 339–40

tart, 287–89

Damson fool, 47

Date and orange salad, Moroccan, 215

Dessert sauces

Barbados cream, 117

brandy butter, 59–60

butterscotch, 275

quick, 167

rum, iced, 60

Digestive biscuits, 447–48

Duck

à l’orange, 43–44

breasts, with ginger and soy, 166

breasts, with honey and orange, 166

meatballs, 436

with orange salsa, 177–78

with pomegranate, 133

roast, 89–91, 274, 275

Duck liver sauce, 438

Dumplings

semolina (gnocchetti di semolino), 85

slump, summer, 280–81

Eggplant

moussaka, 104–5

provolone-stuffed (involtini), 361–62

ratatouille, 102–4

and shrimp crostini, 304

slices with pomegranate juice and mint, 240–41

Eggs

children’s recipes, 419, 422, 424, 425–26

frittata, 425–26

gypsy toast, 422–23

hard-boiled, with mayonnaise, 14

poached, kale with chorizo and, 149–50

soufflé, pea, 142–43

whites, 17–19, 70

See also
Meringues

Fairy cakes, 448–49

Fennel, 290, 376

Figs, 402

baked, 187

ice cream with, 178

Turkish delight, 351

Fish

and beans, 416–17

ceviche with hot garlic potatoes, 314–15

children’s recipes, 415, 416–17, 420–21, 426, 442–43

haddock, marinated smoked, Parmentier crêpes with, 219, 220–21

monkfish, roast, 354–55

mullet, red, with garlic and rosemary, 168–69

pie, Blakean, 357–58

pie, and porcini, 241–43

sandwiches, 455

sea bass, baked, with rosemary, 263–64

sole with chanterelles, 172–73

trout Chambéry, 181

See also
Anchovies; Cod; Mackerel; Salmon; Tuna

Fishcakes, salmon, 442–43

Fools

damson, 47

passion fruit, 174–75

raspberry, 191

Freezer food, 67–70, 167, 370–71

Frittata, 425–26

Fruit, 25, 70, 73, 197, 198, 235, 401–3

for babies and children, 411–12

See also
Berries; Fruit salads;
specific fruits

Fruit salads

orange and date, Moroccan, 215

red currant and peach, 325–26

strawberries in dark syrup, 346

tropical, 274, 402

tropical, with butterscotch sauce, 274, 275

Garlic, 12, 72

beef fillet with red wine, anchovies, thyme and, 343, 344–45

cannellini/cranberry beans with sage and, warm, 258–59

chicken wings, 239–40

mushrooms, 423–24

and pea crostini, 301

potatoes, 315

potatoes, hot, ceviche with, 314–15

potatoes, leg of lamb, butterflied, with, 338–39

red mullet with rosemary and, 168–69

roasted whole, 9, 62, 420

roast, and lemon dressing, 395

shrimp, with chili pepper and, 129

tahini, lamb with, 174

vegetables with ginger and, 376

Ginger

chicken, roast, 198

duck with soy and, 166

stem, gingerbread, 114–15

stem, with ice cream, 167, 178

vegetables with garlic and, 376

Gingerbread, stem ginger, 114–15

Gnocchetti di semolino, 85

Goose, Christmas, 52–53

Gooseberry compote, panna cotta with, 45–47

Gorgonzola with mascarpone and marsala crostini, 302

Grapes, 235, 326, 403

Gravy

beef, 249, 252–53

chicken, 8–9

goose, 53

pork, 286

red wine, cumin and onion, 245–46

turkey, 56–57

Greek lamb stew, 95–97

Green beans

with green salad, 276–77

wrapped in prosciutto, 304–5

Greencakes, 443–44

Green goddess dressing, little gems with, 332–33

Grouse

with mascarpone and thyme, 151–52

roasted, 47, 380

Guacamole, 321, 322

Gypsy toast, 422–23

Haddock, marinated smoked, Parmentier crêpes with, 219, 220–21

Ham, 195, 211–12

in cider, 212–14

in Coca-cola, 293–94

cod wrapped in, 323

glazes for, 292–93

meatballs, and turkey, 436

patties, and parsley, 21

roast fresh, 382–83

stock, 78, 141

and veal pasta, baked, 87–88

Harissa, 208–9

Hash, turkey, Ed Victor’s, 61–62

Hazelnut cake, 321, 324–25

Herbs, 11–12

Hollandaise, 14–15

Honey

duck with orange and, 166

ricotta with toasted pine nuts and, 172

yogurt, passion fruit, and cream, 211

Horseradish sauce, 250

fresh, with chives, 265–66

Hummus with seared lamb and toasted pine nuts, 237–39

Ice cream

chocolate, 34–35

with ginger, stem, or figs, 167, 178

lemon, 250–51, 254–55

lemon meringue, 255

rhubarb, 309, 311–12

toppings for, 167, 183, 243

vanilla, 33–34

Irish stew, 358–59

Irish tarte Tatin, 229, 231–32

Italian broth
(brodo)
, 84–85

Jam tarts, 449–50

Jelly

mint, orange, and red-currant, 275

rhubarb and muscat, 310, 312–13

sauternes and lemon balm, 337, 341–42

Kale with chorizo and poached egg, 149–50

Kidney, and steak pie, 223–25

Lamb

and bean braise, 139–40

cawl, 94–95

with chickpeas, 348–50

chops, for children, 423

cottage pie, 429–32

with garlicky tahini, 174

gigot boulangère, 278–79

Greek stew, 95–97

Irish stew, 358–59

leg of, butterflied, with garlic potatoes, 338–39

rack of, cinnamon-hot, 185

roast, caper sauce for,281–82

roast shoulder of, 275, 276