How to Cook Indian (97 page)

7. Transfer to a serving bowl, sprinkle with the cardamom, and serve hot.

Wafer Per Eda

Eggs with potato chips

This unusual method of cooking eggs is native to the Parsi community in India. Parsis came to India from Persia and settled in the Indian state of Gujarat. Their cooking skills are legendary, and even in this simple dish, you will notice their innovative and delightful approach.

Serves 4.

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

½ teaspoon cumin seeds

1 medium red onion, sliced

2 green chiles, stemmed and chopped

1 medium tomato, chopped

1 cup (200 grams) potato chips

1 teaspoon table salt

4 medium eggs

1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro

1. Place a medium nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the cumin and onion, and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes or until light golden. Add the chiles and tomato, and cook for 3 minutes or until the tomatoes are soft.

2. Add the potato chips, salt, and 2 tablespoons water. Cover and cook for 1 minute. Uncover and spread the mixture evenly in the pan.

3. Crack the eggs, one at a time, on top of the potato chip mixture to cover completely.

4. Lower the heat to low, cover, and cook for about 5 minutes or until the eggs are set.

5. Garnish with the cilantro and serve immediately.

Zafrani Dum Murgh

Chicken with yogurt and saffron

Chicken that is cooked in a coal-fired clay oven called a
tandoor
is probably the most common Indian dish available outside India. Here, I’ve added a hint of saffron and then roasted the chicken in a conventional oven.

Serves 4.

1 (1¾-pound/800-gram) chicken

1 cup (250 grams) plain yogurt

1½ teaspoons table salt

1 teaspoon red chile powder

¾ teaspoon fresh ginger paste (page 12)

¾ teaspoon fresh garlic paste (page 12)

1 quart (800 ml) vegetable oil

3 medium red onions, sliced

½ cup (30 grams) chopped fresh cilantro

½ cup (30 grams) chopped fresh mint

5 green chiles, stemmed and chopped

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

5 whole cloves

2 green cardamom pods

2-inch (5-cm) cinnamon stick

3 or 4 saffron threads

2 tablespoons grated fresh coconut (or frozen unsweetened coconut)

10 almonds, blanched and peeled (see Note page 40), ground

¼ cup (60 grams) butter, melted

1. Pat the chicken dry. Prick it all over with a fork.

2. Put the yogurt in a bowl and stir in 1 teaspoon of the salt, the chile powder, ginger paste, and garlic paste. Rub the mixture generously on the chicken, inside and out. Put the chicken in a large bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and put in the refrigerator to marinate for 5 to 6 hours.

3. Place a nonstick wok over high heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, lower the heat to medium, add the onions, and cook, stirring constantly with a slotted spoon, until they are browned and crisp. Remove with the slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Set aside to cool completely. Crumble lightly with your fingers.

4. Preheat the oven to 325°F/160°C.

5. Put the cilantro, mint, chiles, lemon juice, remaining ½ teaspoon salt, the cloves, cardamom, and cinnamon in a mini food processor, add 1 tablespoon water, and process to a smooth paste. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the browned onions, saffron, coconut, and almonds. Rub the mixture all over the chicken and prick it all over with a fork again.

6. Grease a baking sheet with a little melted butter. Brush the chicken with some melted butter and place it on the baking sheet. Bake on the middle rack of the oven for 15 minutes.

7. Baste with the remaining melted butter and bake for 20 minutes more or until cooked through.

8. Remove from the oven and let rest for 5 minutes. Carve the chicken and serve hot.

India is the country of golden wheat. We use other grains, such as rice, corn, and millet, but wheat, semolina, and whole-wheat flour rule. People around the world are switching from highly refined grains to those that are closer to their natural state—white bread to whole wheat, white rice to brown—but India has been eating what is essentially wholewheat bread for centuries: the simple, humble, everyday
roti
(page 18) and
chapati
(page 438), an unleavened griddle bread.

A puffed-up
roti
called a
phulka
always fascinates travelers from abroad, and I demystify the process here. Knead the dough with water, and as the
roti
is exposed to high heat, the water begins to evaporate rapidly. This creates steam, which is what causes the bread to balloon.
Rotis
are best rolled out with a light hand that evenly distributes the pressure over the expanding surface (a long, thin Indian-style rolling pin is best for this). Dusting with flour once or twice can help you to prevent folds in the rolled-out
roti
and thus ensure perfect puffing.

But the world of Indian breads does not stop at the
roti, naan
(page 20), and
paratha
(page 18) that you might order in your local Indian restaurant to sop up saucy curries. In this chapter you’ll find intriguing breads like the Rajasthani
bati
(page 462), a whole-wheat bread enriched with plenty of ghee, and breads that can be served as substantial dishes in and of themselves. The chicken
kheema kulcha
(page 454), for example, can be cut up and served as a hot starter, and the many layers of
pudina paratha
(page 461) can be separated and served with chicken, meat, or
dal
.

Aloo Anardana Kulcha

A Punjabi stuffed bread with potato and dried pomegranate seeds

Dried pomegranate seeds, or
anardana,
are the star attraction here. They share their tartness only when crushed or ground and are rarely used whole. They are readily available at Indian grocery stores.

This
kulcha
pairs very well with
chole.
With
khajoor aur imli ki
chutney (sweet date-and-tamarind chutney; page 22), sliced onions, and green chiles, it’s simply irresistible.

Makes 8.

2 cups (240 grams)
maida
(refined flour) or pastry flour

¾ teaspoon table salt

¼ teaspoon baking soda

2 tablespoons plain yogurt

2 tablespoons milk

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 teaspoon
anardana
(dried pomegranate seeds)

2 medium potatoes, boiled, peeled, and grated

½ medium onion, diced

¼ medium bunch fresh cilantro leaves, finely chopped

8 to 10 fresh mint leaves, finely chopped

2 green chiles, stemmed and minced

½ tablespoon red chile powder

½ tablespoon ground roasted cumin (page 32)

¾ teaspoon
kalonji
(nigella; see Note page 231)

2 tablespoons butter

1. Sift the
maida,
½ teaspoon of the salt, and the baking soda into a large bowl. Gradually add the yogurt and milk, and stir well. Add ½ cup (100 ml) water and knead to make a soft and smooth dough. Cover with a wet cloth and let rest for 10 minutes.

2. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil and knead the dough well. Cover and set aside for at least 1 and up to 3 hours.

3. Divide the dough into 8 equal portions and shape them into smooth balls.

4. Heat a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat. Add the
anardana
and dry-roast them for 2 minutes. Cool and grind to a coarse powder in a spice grinder.

5. In a large bowl, combine the potatoes, onion, cilantro, mint, green chiles,
anardana,
chile powder, cumin, and the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Divide the potato mixture into 8 equal portions and set aside.

6. Flatten a portion of dough, place a portion of the potato mixture in the center, and fold the dough over to form a ball. Place the stuffed dough on a lightly floured work surface and roll gently into a 4- to 5-inch (10- to 12½-cm) round. Brush lightly with oil, sprinkle
kalonji
on the surface, and press with your palm.

7. Place a nonstick
tawa
(griddle) over medium heat. Let it heat for 2 minutes, then place a dough round on it and cook until the underside has light golden specks. Flip over and cook until the second side has light golden specks.

8. Brush the hot
kulchas
with butter and serve immediately.

Aloo Paratha

An Indian bread stuffed with potato

This is comfort food for Punjabis, especially the children, and is served for breakfast, lunch, teatime, and dinner. Glistening with ghee (page 37) and served piping hot with yogurt and Indian-spiced pickle, it is a signature bread of rural as well as urban Punjab.

Makes 8.

2 cups (300 grams)
atta
(whole-wheat flour)

¾ teaspoon table salt

1 teaspoon
anardana
(dried pomegranate seeds)

2 medium potatoes, boiled, peeled, and grated