How to Cook Indian (71 page)

1 teaspoon table salt

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

¾ teaspoon red chile powder

2 tablespoons mustard seeds

5 green chiles, stemmed

¼ cup (50 ml) refined mustard oil (see Note page 87)

2 medium red onions, chopped

1. Cut the fish horizontally into 1-inch-thick (2½-cm-thick) slices and wash well under running water. Drain in a colander and transfer to a bowl.

2. Sprinkle with ½ teaspoon of the salt, ½ teaspoon of the turmeric, and ¼ teaspoon of the chile powder. Set aside to marinate for 15 minutes.

3. Soak the mustard seeds in ¼ cup (50 ml) water for 15 minutes. Transfer to a spice grinder with 2 of the chiles and ¼ teaspoon of the salt, and grind to a fine paste.

4. Place a nonstick wok over medium heat and add the mustard oil. When the oil is hot, add the fish and fry, turning, until both sides are lightly browned. Drain on paper towels and set aside.

5. Combine the remaining ½ teaspoon turmeric, the remaining ½ teaspoon chile powder, the mustard paste, and 2 cups (400 ml) water.

6. Return the wok, with the oil remaining in it, to medium heat. Add the onions and stir. Slit the remaining green chiles, add to the wok, and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes or until the onions are browned. Add the turmeric–chile powder–mustard mixture and bring to a boil.

7. Add the fish and the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt, and simmer for 5 to 7 minutes or until the fish is cooked through.

8. Transfer to a serving dish and serve hot.

Jhinga Kalimirch

Shrimp in peppercorn sauce

This is one of India’s hottest dishes. But I always say that the cook is in control, and you can decrease the quantity of peppercorns if you like. The best peppercorns in India come from the verdant state of Kerala, where the air is full of heady aromas. The yellow chile powder used here is an ingredient from Benares and is a common spice used in the
chaats
sold by street vendors there.

Serves 4.

20 medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

1½ teaspoons table salt

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

4 medium red onions

5 medium tomatoes, roughly chopped

1 quart (800 ml) plus 3 tablespoons vegetable oil

½ cup (125 grams) plain yogurt

1-inch (2½-cm) cinnamon stick

3 green cardamom pods

2 teaspoons fresh garlic paste (page 12)

2 teaspoons fresh ginger paste (page 12)

¼ cup (75 grams) cashew paste (page 12)

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon yellow chile powder (or cayenne)

25 black peppercorns, crushed, plus more for garnish if desired

1. Put the shrimp in a bowl, add the salt and lemon juice, and toss to coat. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set aside to marinate for 20 minutes.

2. Thinly slice 3 of the onions and chop the remaining onion.

3. Put the tomatoes in a blender and blend to a smooth purée. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.

4. Place a nonstick wok over high heat and add 1 quart (800 ml) oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the wok, lower the heat to medium and add the sliced onions. Cook, stirring occasionally with a slotted spoon, until the onions are well browned. Remove with the slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Let cool completely.

5. Transfer the onions to the blender, add the yogurt, and blend to a fine paste.

6. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add 2 tablespoons of the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the cinnamon and cardamom, and sauté for 30 seconds or until fragrant. Add the garlic paste and ginger paste, and sauté for 30 seconds. Add the cashew paste and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the tomato purée and cook, stirring, for 15 minutes. Add the turmeric and chile powder, and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.

7. Add the onion paste and stir well. Bring to a boil, then remove from the heat and let cool slightly. Pour through a strainer into a bowl; discard the solids.

8. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the peppercorns and chopped onion, and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes or until the onion is browned.

9. Add the shrimp and stir. Add the tomato mixture and 1 cup (200 ml) water. Stir and cook until the mixture comes to a boil and the shrimp are cooked through.

10. Garnish with a few more crushed peppercorns, if you wish. Serve hot.

Karimeen Pollichattu

Fish steamed in banana leaf

The pearl spot fish is similar to pomfret, which you may be more familiar with. The first time I tasted this fish was in Bangalore in a restaurant at Taj Gateway. Some people get passionate about Norwegian salmon or sea bass from Chile; I feel the same way about pearl spot fish, which comes from the state of Kerala. Once you have tasted it, you will not mind flying it in or traveling to Kerala to try it. If you can’t find pearl spot, use mackerel, silver pomfret, or tilapia.

Serves 4.

4 (5-ounce/150 grams) whole
karimeen
(pearl spot)

1 banana leaf (see Notes)

1 cup (140 grams)
sambhar
onions (similar to red pearl onions), peeled

9 tablespoons coconut or vegetable oil

½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

½ teaspoon black mustard seeds

½ teaspoon fennel seeds

15 or 16 whole black peppercorns

16 dried red chiles, stemmed

¼ cup (12 grams) coriander seeds

2-inch (5-cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled

16 cloves garlic

6 green chiles, stemmed

25 to 30 fresh curry leaves, chopped

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp (see Notes)

1 tablespoon table salt

1. Scale the fish and clean the insides well. Wash under running water. Make deep slits on either side of each fish with a sharp knife and leave the fish in a colander to drain.

2. Wash the banana leaf and wipe it dry. Remove the center core and cut the leaf into 4 pieces. Holding them with tongs, singe the pieces over an open flame to make them malleable.

3. Peel all the onions and chop half of them. Leave the remaining onions whole.

4. Place a medium nonstick pan over medium heat and add 2 tablespoons of the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the whole onions, fenugreek, mustard seeds, fennel, peppercorns, red chiles, coriander seeds, ginger, garlic, green chiles, half of the curry leaves, the tamarind pulp, and salt, and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes or until the onions are translucent.

5. Spread the mixture on a plate and set aside to cool to room temperature. Transfer to a food processor with ¼ cup (50 ml) water and process to a fine paste.

6. Spread half of the the paste liberally all over the fish, stuffing it into the slits. Set aside for 30 minutes to marinate.

7. Place a shallow nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add 4 tablespoons of the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, place the fish in a single layer and cook for 2 minutes on each side or until the fish are half cooked.

8. Place another nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add 1 tablespoon oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the chopped onions, the remaining curry leaves, and the remaining ground paste, and cook, stirring continuously, for 2 minutes.

9. Spread half of the onion mixture over the banana leaf pieces and place one fish on each piece. Spread the remaining mixture over the fish and fold in the sides of the banana leaf pieces to wrap the fish completely.

10. Place the nonstick sauté pan from step 7 over medium heat and add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the fish parcels and cook for 3 to 4 minutes on each side or until the fish are cooked through, making sure that the leaves do not burn during cooking.

11. Serve hot in the parcels.

While banana leaf is preferable, you can wrap the fish in aluminum foil or parchment paper instead.

For sourness,
kodumpuli,
also called “fish tamarind,” is traditionally used here. Since it is not readily available, I call for regular tamarind pulp in the recipe; you can also use
amchur
(dried mango powder).

Kesari Bharwan Jhinga

Stuffed shrimp in a saffron curry

This impressive dish of shrimp stuffed with chicken will have your guests exclaiming in delight.

Serves 4.

For the shrimp:

8 tiger shrimp

1 teaspoon fresh ginger paste (page 12)

1 teaspoon fresh garlic paste (page 12)

½ teaspoon table salt

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 ounces (60 grams) ground chicken

For the sauce: