How to Cook Indian (63 page)

4. Add the
besan
batter, coriander, turmeric, cumin, chile powder, salt, and 1 cup (200 ml) water, and stir well.

5. Cook, stirring continuously so that the mixture does not stick or burn, for 7 minutes or until the
besan
is cooked and the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of the spoon. Remove from the heat.

6. Taste and add salt if needed. Garnish with the coconut and cilantro, and serve hot.

Olan

Pumpkin curry

It is a misconception that all Indian curries are hot. This flavorful but mild
olan
from Kerala is a perfect example of how gentle a curry can be.

Serves 4.

1 1/3 teaspoons table salt

1 1/3 cup (240 grams) pie pumpkin, peeled and cubed

1 1/3 cup (240 grams) white pumpkin, peeled and cubed

2 tablespoons coconut oil

½ teaspoon brown mustard seeds

3 green chiles, stemmed and slit

10 to 12 fresh curry leaves

1 tablespoon grated cane jaggery

¼ cup grated fresh coconut

1. Place a nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add 1 cup (200 ml) water, the salt, the pie pumpkin, and the white pumpkin. Bring to a boil and cook, stirring frequently, for 10 to 12 minutes or until the pumpkin is soft.

2. Remove from the heat and mash lightly with the back of a ladle.

3. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the coconut oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the mustard seeds. When they sputter, add the chiles and curry leaves.

4. Add the mashed pumpkin and stir. Add the jaggery and cook, stirring, until it is dissolved.

5. Sprinkle with the coconut and serve hot.

Puzhanikkai More Kozhambu

Ash gourd in a spicy yogurt-and-coconut sauce

Here, ash gourd (also called winter melon) is cooked in sour yogurt, yielding a curry that greatly resembles North Indian
kadhi.
Incidentally, the “z” in
kozhambu
is pronounced like “l.” In Tamil homes, where the dish is often made for the festival of Pongal, okra is sometimes added to the curry.

Serves 4.

14 ounces (400 grams) ash gourd (page 586), peeled, seeded, and cut into 2-inch (5-cm) sticks

3½ teaspoons table salt

1 teaspoon
toor dal/arhar dal
(split pigeon peas)

2 teaspoons
chana dal
(split Bengal gram)

2 teaspoons raw rice

6 green chiles, stemmed and chopped

½ teaspoon cumin seeds 1 teaspoon coriander seeds

1½ cups (180 grams) grated fresh coconut (or frozen unsweetened coconut)

30 fresh curry leaves

3 cups (750 grams) sour plain yogurt (see page 513)

¼ cup (15 grams) chopped fresh cilantro

¼ cup (50 ml) vegetable oil

1 teaspoon brown mustard seeds

4 dried red chiles, stemmed and broken in half

½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

½ teaspoon
ajwain

1. Place a nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add 1 quart (800 ml) water. When the water comes to a boil, add the ash gourd and 1 teaspoon of the salt, and boil for 5 minutes. Drain in a colander and set aside.

2. Put the
dals
and rice in a bowl, wash in plenty of water 2 or 3 times, and drain. Add 1 cup (200 ml) water and soak for 15 minutes. Drain and put in a food processor with the green chiles, cumin, coriander, coconut, and 15 of the curry leaves. Add ¼ cup (50 ml) water and process to a smooth paste.

3. Put the yogurt in a large bowl and add 1 cup (200 ml) water. Whisk well. Add the remaining 2½ teaspoons salt and the ground paste, and whisk thoroughly.

4. Place a nonstick saucepan over medium heat, add the yogurt mixture, and cook, stirring continuously, until it comes to a boil. Lower the heat to low, add the cilantro and the remaining 15 curry leaves, and simmer for 4 to 5 minutes or until the mixture thickens.

5. Add the ash gourd and stir.

6. Place a small nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear in the bottom of the pan, add the mustard seeds. When they begin to sputter, add the red chiles, fenugreek, and
ajwain.
When the seeds change color, pour the oil over the yogurt curry and cover immediately with a lid to trap the flavors.

7. Let rest off the heat for 3 to 4 minutes, then stir well and serve.

Use slightly sour yogurt (see page 513) for an especially tasty and tangy curry.

Pyaaz Ki Tarkari

Onions with tamarind

Not only does it not take much time to prepare, the taste and texture of this typical Hyderabadi onion dish is so lovely that I had to share it with you. No tears here: These onions will make you smile.

Serves 4.

3½ tablespoons vegetable oil

8 medium red onions, sliced

1 teaspoon fresh ginger paste (page 12)

1 teaspoon fresh garlic paste (page 12)

½ teaspoon table salt

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon red chile powder

2 tablespoons tamarind pulp

1. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the onions and cook until light golden.

2. Add the ginger paste and garlic paste, and sauté for 1 minute or until the raw flavors disappear.

3. Add the salt, turmeric, and chile powder, and sauté for 2 minutes. Sprinkle in ¼ cup (50 ml) water. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer for 4 to 5 minutes.

4. Add the tamarind pulp and cook for 2 to 3 minutes or until the oil comes to the top.

5. Serve hot.

Senai Roast

Roasted marinated yams

I get many inquiries from vegetarians about meat substitutes, and I often suggest yams, which are dense and especially meaty when roasted like this.

Serves 4.

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1½ teaspoons table salt

1¾ pounds (800 grams) yams, peeled and cut into 3-inch (7½-cm) fingers

8 dried red chiles, stemmed and broken in half

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 tablespoon fennel seeds

5 or 6 whole black peppercorns

10 to 12 fresh curry leaves

1 tablespoon
chana dal
(split Bengal gram)

1 tablespoon raw rice

Small ball seedless tamarind (or ½ teaspoon tamarind pulp)

1 cup (200 grams)
rawa/suji
(semolina flour)

½ cup (100 ml) vegetable oil

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1. Place a nonstick saucepan over high heat and add 2 cups (400 ml) water, the turmeric, and 1 teaspoon of the salt, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to medium, add the yams, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes or until half cooked. Drain in a colander and then pat dry with an absorbent kitchen towel.

2. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat. Add the chiles, cumin, fennel, peppercorns, curry leaves,
dal,
rice, and tamarind ball (if using), and dry-roast for 3 to 4 minutes or until fragrant. Set aside to cool.

3. Transfer to a food processor with ¾ cup (150 ml) water (and the tamarind paste, if using instead of the tamarind ball), and process to a smooth paste. Transfer to a large bowl, add the remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and stir well. Add the yams and stir to coat them with the masala paste. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and put in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes.

4. Spread the semolina on a plate and roll the masala-coated yam pieces in it. Shake off the excess semolina and put the yams on a plate.

5. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, lower the heat to low, gently slide in the yam fingers, in small batches, and cook for 8 to 10 minutes or until crisp and golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with the lemon juice and serve hot.

Try this with potatoes or sweet potatoes. Breadfruit prepared this way is also delicious.

Shukto

Mixed vegetables with bitter gourd

Bengalis enjoy a variety of mixed-vegetable preparations like
shukto
and
chorchori
(page 259) that make good use of small bits of vegetables that might otherwise go to waste.
Shukto
is a treat for those who love bitter gourd and strong mustard. Serve it with steamed rice and
cholar dal
(page 490).

Serves 4.

1¼ teaspoons black mustards seeds