How to Cook Indian (49 page)

6. Sprinkle a little oil on the stone and place the lamb pieces on it. Cook, turning the pieces a few times and basting occasionally with oil, until cooked through.

7. Serve immediately.

Kadappa
stone is a black limestone. It is very hard and can withstand extreme temperatures. The stone is quarried at Betamcherla, Andhra Pradesh. Granite can be used as a substitute.

Khubani Ke Shammi

Apricot-stuffed potatoes

These kebabs have a soft heart because of the stuffing in the center. The chiles and pepper balance the sweetness of the apricot.

Makes 12.

¼ cup (50 grams) dried apricots

¼ cup (50 grams)
khoya/mawa
(unsweetened solid condensed milk; page 37), crumbled

¼ cup (50 ml) plus 2 teaspoons vegetable oil

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

½-inch (1-cm) piece fresh ginger, chopped

3 green chiles, stemmed and chopped

1 teaspoon
garam masala
(spice mix; page 27)

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1 teaspoon table salt

4 medium potatoes, boiled, peeled, and mashed

¼ cup cornstarch

1. Soak the apricots in 1 cup (200 ml) water for 1 hour. Drain and finely chop. Transfer to a bowl, add the
khoya,
and stir.

2. Place a shallow nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add 2 teaspoons of the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the cumin. When it begins to change color, add the ginger, chiles,
garam masala,
and pepper. Stir well and remove from the heat. Set aside to cool.

3. Add the ginger-chile mixture to the apricot-khoya mixture. Add the cilantro and ½ teaspoon of the salt, and stir well. Divide into 12 portions.

4. Put the mashed potatoes in another bowl. Add the remaining ½ teaspoon salt and stir well. Divide into 12 portions.

5. Roll each portion of potato into a ball and flatten into a round disk. Place a portion of apricot-khoya mixture in the center, gather the edges to enclose the filling, and seal well. Gently roll into a ball again and flatten slightly.

6. Put the cornstarch on a plate and roll the kebabs in it. Shake off the excess and set aside on another plate.

7. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the remaining oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, gently slide in the kebabs, a few at a time, and cook, turning continuously, for 4 to 5 minutes or until golden brown on both sides.

8. Serve hot.

Shikhampuri Kabab

Ground lamb patties stuffed with thick spiced yogurt

The name of these novel kebabs translates to “full belly,” and I don’t know if that refers to the fact that the kebabs are stuffed or that they are very filling. Either way, they are true to their name. Serve these with sliced onions separated into rings and
pudina aur dhaniya
chutney (mint-and-cilantro chutney; page 22).

Makes 8.

1 quart (800 ml) plus 8 teaspoons vegetable oil

1½ medium red onions, peeled and sliced

2 tablespoons ghee (page 37)

½ teaspoon caraway seeds

2 dried red chiles, stemmed and broken

½-inch (1-cm) piece fresh ginger, roughly chopped

5 cloves garlic, roughly chopped

9 ounces (250 grams) ground lamb

1 tablespoon
chana dal
(split Bengal gram), soaked for 30 minutes

¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint

¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro

½ tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 teaspoon table salt

1 large egg

For the filling:

1 cup (250 grams) plain yogurt

1 green chile, stemmed and chopped

1 large red onion, peeled and chopped

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

½ teaspoon table salt

½ teaspoon roasted cumin seeds

1. Place a nonstick wok over high heat and add 1 quart (800 ml) of the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the wok, add the onions and cook, stirring with a slotted spoon, until the onions are well browned. Remove with the slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

2. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the ghee. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the caraway, chiles, ginger, and garlic, and sauté for 1 minute.

3. Add the lamb and sauté for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

4. Drain the
dal
and add it to the pan. Stir and sauté for 1 minute.

5. Add the mint and cilantro, and stir well. Cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool completely.

6. Transfer the mixture to a food processor. Add the onions, lemon juice, and salt, and process to a coarse paste. Transfer to a bowl.

7. Divide the lamb mixture into 8 portions.

8. Make the filling: Hang the yogurt in a double layer of cheesecloth for 1 hour or until most of the excess water has drained away. Transfer to a bowl, add the chile, onion, mint, salt, and cumin, and stir well. Divide into 8 portions.

9. Flatten one portion of the lamb mixture in the palm of your hand and place a portion of yogurt stuffing in the center. Gather the edges, shape into a ball, and flatten slightly. Repeat to make the remaining kebabs.

10. Beat the egg in a bowl.

11. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add 2 teaspoons of the oil. Dip 2 kebabs in the egg, put them in the sauté pan, and cook, turning once, for 3 to 4 minutes or until both the sides are cooked and lightly browned. Drain on paper towels. Repeat with the remaining kebabs.

12. Serve hot.

At least 70 percent of the population of India does not eat meat or chicken, and many will not eat eggs. Included in this group are the Jains, who are not only vegetarians but also do not eat tubers, onions, or garlic; a Jain might not eat an
aloo tikki
(page 151), a patty made with potatoes, but will enjoy a
tikki
made with green banana (page 121). Indians have a deep respect for vegetables, and the repertoire of vegetarian recipes is huge.

It’s only recently that a great variety of fruits and vegetables have become readily available (and still only in large metropolitan areas), but buying fresh produce daily has long been a passion of the Indian homemaker.

The recipes that follow are proof of how advanced vegetarian cooking is in India. The humble potato, for example, becomes the all-time favorite
aloo matar
(page 230) or the glowing red Kashmiri
dum aloo
(page 236). Okra, eggplant, gourds, peas, spinach, fenugreek greens, and mustard greens will find their way into your kitchen with much more regularity when you discover that you have so much to make with them! Included in this chapter is a wealth of
paneer
recipes—some everyday dishes and some more unusual ones.
Paneer
is a prime source of essential protein vendors in India.

Aloo Chokha

Spicy potato dish

My initial working years in the kitchen were in Varanasi in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh, and my cooks in the hotel kitchen used to make this often for their lunch. It is prepared in a similar way in the neighboring state of Bihar.

Serves 4 to 6.

2 tablespoons filtered mustard oil (see Note page 87)

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

2 dried red chiles, stemmed

3 medium red onions, chopped

3 or 4 cloves garlic, crushed

3 or 4 green chiles, stemmed and chopped

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground roasted cumin (page 32)

6 small potatoes, boiled, peeled, and mashed

1 teaspoon
amchur
(dried mango powder)

1 teaspoon table salt