How to Cook Indian (124 page)

11. Chill in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours so the
chenna
patties absorb the
rabdi.
Serve cold.

Rosogulla

Bengali-style
chenna
balls steeped in sugar syrup

This masterpiece of sweets is the basis for many other Bengali desserts. People are often hesitant to make these at home, thinking that there is some secret to making them well. The secret is practice!

Makes 16.

For the
chenna:

5 cups (1 liter) whole milk

1½ tablespoons distilled white vinegar

For the first syrup:

1¼ cups (250 grams) sugar

2 tablespoons whole milk

1 tablespoon
maida
(refined flour) or pastry flour

For the second syrup:

1¼ cups (250 grams) sugar

2 tablespoons whole milk

1. Make the
chenna:
Place a nonstick saucepan over high heat and add the milk. When it comes to a boil, lower the heat to low, add the vinegar, and stir until the liquid whey separates from the solid curds.

2. Line a strainer with a double layer of cheesecloth and pour in the whey and curds; drain, then gather the curds up in the cloth and dip the
chenna,
in the cloth, in a bowl of cold water until it is completely chilled. Squeeze out any excess water and press with your palms until all the water drains away. The
chenna
should form a ball. Transfer the
chenna
to a plate and divide into 16 portions. Take each portion between your palms and press and roll into a ball. Set aside.

3. Make the first syrup: Place a nonstick saucepan over high heat. Add the sugar and 2 cups (400 ml) water and cook, stirring continuously, until the sugar is dissolved. When the syrup starts boiling, add the milk. The scum will rise to the top. Gently spoon off the scum and discard.

4. Bring the syrup to a rolling boil. Lower the
chenna
balls into the syrup. In a small bowl, stir the
maida
into 1 cup (200 ml) water to make a slurry. Add half of this to the syrup and stir. Cover and cook for 25 minutes. Add ½ cup (100 ml) water every 5 minutes so that the syrup does not thicken. Add the remaining slurry after 10 or 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

5. Make the second syrup: Place a nonstick saucepan over high heat. Add the sugar and 2 cups (400 ml) water, and cook, stirring continuously, until the sugar is dissolved. When the syrup comes to a boil, add the milk. When the scum rises to the top, gently spoon it off and discard. Let the syrup cool slightly; it should be warm, not hot.

6. With a slotted spoon, remove the
chenna
balls from the first syrup and put them in the second syrup to soak. Chill in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours so the
chenna
balls absorb the syrup. Serve cold.

Sakkarai Pongal

Rice-and-lentil dessert

The festival of Pongal in Tamil Nadu celebrates the harvest and marks a period of prosperity and plenty.
Ponga
literally means “overflowing,” and it is customary to cook this sweet in small pots and allow it to boil over as a mark of thanksgiving.

Serves 4.

3 green cardamom pods

1 tablespoon sugar

¼ cup (50 grams)
dhuli moong dal
(split skinless green gram)

¾ cup (150 grams) short grain rice, soaked for 30 minutes

3 cups (600 ml) milk

1 cup (200 grams) grated cane jaggery

¼ cup (50 grams) plus

1 tablespoon ghee (page 37)

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coconut

2 tablespoons raisins

7 or 8 cashews

1. Break the cardamom pods and put the seeds in a spice grinder. Add the sugar and grind to a fine powder.

2. Place a nonstick saucepan over medium heat. Add the
dal
and dry-roast for 2 to 3 minutes or until fragrant. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.

3. Drain and add the rice to the same heated pan and dry-roast for 1 minute. Transfer to another bowl and set aside.

4. Return the
dal
to the same heated pan. Add 2½ cups (500 ml) of the milk and 1½ (300 ml) cups water and bring to a boil. Cover and cook for 10 minutes or until the
dal
is three quarters done.

5. Add the rice, the remaining ½ cup (100 ml) milk, and 1 cup (200 ml) water. Cover and cook for 20 minutes or until both the
dal
and rice are cooked.

6. Add the jaggery and stir continuously until the jaggery is dissolved. Add ¼ cup (50 ml) of the ghee and stir.

7. Meanwhile, place a small nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the remaining 1 tablespoon ghee. When the ghee melts, add the coconut, raisins, and cashews, and sauté until lightly browned. Add to the
dal
-rice mixture.

8. Add the ground cardamom mixture and stir. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes.

9. Remove from the heat and serve hot.

Semiya Payasam

Vermicelli pudding

Simple ingredients are used to create this remarkable dessert that is made on all auspicious occasions in South India. The trick to a perfect
payasam
is to use less
semiyan
and more milk than you might think you’d need. This pudding has a tendency to thicken as it cools, so you can add more milk to thin it.

Serves 4.

¼ cup (50 grams) ghee (page 37)

1 cup (130 grams)
semiyan
(wheat-flour vermicelli; see Note)

10 cashews

4½ cups (900 ml) milk

1 cup (200 grams) sugar

Generous pinch of saffron threads

½ teaspoon ground green cardamom (see Note page 559)

1. Place a medium nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the ghee. When the ghee melts, add the
semiyan
and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes or until light golden brown. Add the cashews, stir well, and set aside.

2. Place a heavy-bottomed nonstick saucepan over high heat and add the milk. Bring to a boil, then add the
semiyan
and cashews. Stir gently, lower the heat to medium, and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring frequently.

3. Add the sugar and continue to simmer, stirring frequently. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes.

4. Stir in the saffron and cardamom. Stir well and serve hot, chilled, or at room temperature.

If using ready-roasted
semiyan,
you don’t need to roast it further; just add it to the milk in step 2.

Sheer Kurma

Sweet vermicelli pudding

If there is a
biryani
feast during the Muslim festival of Id,
sheer kurma
will not be far behind. The quantity and types of nuts used vary from home to home.

Serves 4.

A few saffron threads

2 tablespoons warm milk, plus 7½ cups (1.5 liters) milk

2 tablespoons ghee (page 37)

2/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons (100 grams)
semiyan
(wheat-flour vermicelli; see Note)

¼ teaspoon ground green cardamom (see Note page 559)

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

2 tablespoons
chironji/charoli
(melon seeds, page 587)

8 to 10 almonds, blanched (see Note page 40), peeled, and slivered

8 to 10 pistachios, blanched (see Note page 40), peeled, and slivered