How to Cook Indian (112 page)

Sweet-and-sour plum chutney

Because plums are available for only a couple of months in India, plum season is a busy time for my wife, Alyona, as she bottles this chutney to use throughout the year. Serve this chutney with roast chicken or as a dip with any spicy starter.

Makes ¾ cup (225 grams).

8 to 10 medium ripe plums, pitted and puréed (see Note)

½ teaspoon table salt

½ cup grated cane jaggery

½ teaspoon black salt

1 teaspoon red chile powder

1 teaspoon ground roasted cumin (page 32)

6 to 8 dates, pitted and chopped

1. Heat a heavy-bottomed nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add the plum purée. When it comes to a boil, add the table salt, jaggery, black salt, and chile powder, and stir well. Simmer over medium heat for 10 minutes or until the mixture thickens.

2. Add the cumin. Stir and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes.

3. Stir in the dates and cook for 2 minutes, stirring continuously. Let cool completely and store in a sterilized, airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 15 days.

To purée the plums, place them in a food processor and process until smooth.

Amer Chatni

Green-mango chutney

This sweet-and-sour mango relish is a great topping for plain grilled chicken or fish.

Makes 2½ cups (900 grams).

4 medium green mangoes

2 teaspoons vegetable oil

2 teaspoons
panch phoron
(see Note)

2 dried red chiles, stemmed

1 cup (250 grams) sugar

1 teaspoon table salt

1. Wash the green mangoes well and cut them, with the skin, into ¼-inch-thick slices; reserve the pits.

2. Place a medium nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add 1 teaspoon of the
panch phoron
and the chiles. When the seeds sputter, add the mangoes and sauté for 1 minute. Add 2 cups (400 ml) warm water, the reserved mango pits, and sugar, and cook over medium heat, stirring continuously, for 10 to 15 minutes or until the mangoes are tender and the chutney is thick.

3. Add the salt and stir. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

4. Place a small sauté pan over medium heat and dry-roast the remaining 1 teaspoon
panch phoron
for 2 to 3 minutes or until fragrant. Remove from the heat, let cool, then transfer to a mortar and pound to a powder with a pestle. When the chutney has cooled, sprinkle the powder on top and serve as an accompaniment. Or, store in a sterilized, airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 15 days.

Panch phoron
is a mixture of equal parts mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds,
kalonji
(nigella seeds), cumin seeds, and fennel seeds.

Angoor Aur Khajur Ki Chutney

Grape-and-date chutney

Creativity is an essential ingredient for good cooks, and this recipe is courtesy of my wife’s mother, who loves making up new relishes. The chutney is chunky with plump raisins; it goes wonderfully with spicy
samosas
(page 154).

Makes 2 cups (600 grams).

25 to 30 seedless red grapes

1 cup (250 grams) dates, pitted and chopped

1 teaspoon red chile powder

1 teaspoon ground roasted cumin (page 32)

1½ tablespoons raisins

½ teaspoon table salt

¼ cup (50 grams) grated cane jaggery

1. Place a nonstick saucepan over medium heat. Add the grapes, dates, and ½ cup (100 ml) water, and cook for 12 minutes or until the grapes are completely broken down.

2. Add the chile powder, cumin, and raisins, and cook for 5 minutes.

3. Add the salt and jaggery, stir well, and cook for 1 minute or until the jaggery is completely dissolved and well blended.

4. Transfer to a serving bowl and let cool.

5. Serve at room temperature, or store in a sterilized, airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 15 days.

Chile Garlic Chutney

Fiery and flavorful garlic chutney

If you think spice is nice, this red-hot chutney is for you. I love it with anything fried.

Makes 1 cup (300 grams).

10 dried red chiles, stemmed and seeded

12 large cloves garlic

2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 teaspoon tamarind pulp 1 teaspoon sea salt

1 teaspoon ground roasted cumin (page 32)

1. Soak the chiles in 1½ cups (300 ml) water for 30 minutes. Drain in a colander.

2. Put the chiles and garlic in a food processor with the lemon juice, tamarind pulp, and ¼ cup (50 ml) water, and process to a fine paste.

3. Add the salt and cumin, and process again. Transfer to a sterilized, airtight container and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Nariel Aur Dhaniya Ki Chatni

Coconut cilantro chutney

This delicious chutney, a staple from South India, is ready in minutes. It keeps well in the fridge for up to a week. Serve it with
dosas
(page 122),
idlis
(page 120), or even
rotis
(page 18).

Makes 1 ½ cups (450 grams).

1 cup (120 grams) grated fresh coconut (or frozen unsweetened coconut)

3 green chiles, stemmed and chopped

¼ cup (75 grams) dry-roasted
chana dal
(split Bengal gram)

½ small bunch fresh cilantro, roughly chopped

½-inch (l-cm) piece fresh ginger, chopped

½ tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

½ teaspoon sugar

¾ teaspoon table salt

1 teaspoon vegetable oil

¼ teaspoon brown mustard seeds

½ teaspoon
dhuli urad dal
(split skinless black gram)

Pinch of asafetida

5 fresh curry leaves

1. Put the coconut, chiles,
chana dal,
cilantro, ginger, and ½ cup (100 ml) water in a food processor, and process to a paste. Add the lemon juice, sugar, and salt, and process again. Transfer to a serving bowl.

2. Place a small sauté pan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the mustard seeds. When they begin to sputter, add the
dhuli urad dal
and sauté for 30 seconds or until lightly browned. Add the asafetida and curry leaves, and immediately pour the tempering over the chutney. Stir well and serve, or let cool completely and store in a sterilized, airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

Hirvi Mirchi Cha Thecha

Spicy green-chile chutney

This rustic accompaniment from the state of Maharashtra is neither a chutney nor a pickle. It is best made fresh and in a stone mortar, but in our modern kitchens, a food processor does just fine. As the chiles are sautéed in oil, their heat is tamed somewhat. For variety, use different types of chiles. Serve with
bhakris
(page 453).

Makes ¾ cup (225 grams).

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

8 cloves garlic, crushed

8 or 9 green chiles, stemmed and chopped

2 tablespoons sesame seeds

1 teaspoon sea salt

2 tablespoons grated fresh coconut (or frozen unsweetened coconut)

¼ medium bunch fresh cilantro, chopped

1. Place a medium nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the cumin, garlic, and chiles, and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes.

2. Add the sesame seeds and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the sea salt, coconut, and cilantro, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a plate and set aside to cool.

3. Transfer to a mortar and pound to a coarse paste with a pestle, or process in a food processor. Store in a sterilized, airtight container in the refrigerator. It will last for up to 1 week.

Keerai Chutney

Spinach chutney

Use fresh spinach to make this chutney. It has a certain palate-cleansing quality that remains true to the spinach’s character. Serve the chutney with steamed rice.

Makes 1 cup (300 grams).

1 teaspoon vegetable oil

1 tablespoon
dhuli urad dal
(split skinless black gram)

1 tablespoon
chana dal
(split Bengal gram)