Gordon Ramsay's Great British Pub Food (18 page)

BOOK: Gordon Ramsay's Great British Pub Food
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In a clean bowl, whisk the egg whites with a squeeze of lemon juice, using an electric whisk, until they form soft peaks. With the beaters at full speed, slowly pour in the hot syrup down one side of the bowl and keep whisking for about 2–3 minutes until the meringue is firm, glossy and has cooled down.

Spoon the jam over the pudding and then pipe or spoon the meringue on top. Place the pudding under a hot grill for 2–3 minutes (or wave a cook’s blowtorch over the surface) until the meringue peaks are golden brown. Serve immediately.

Pears poached in perry
SERVES 4

4 firm but ripe pears

700ml perry (pear cider)

100g caster sugar

2 cinnamon sticks

8–10 cloves

2 star anise

1
/
2
tsp black peppercorns

TO SERVE

good-quality vanilla ice cream or pouring cream

This is an easy yet elegant dessert that can be prepared in advance. In fact, we generally poach our pears a day ahead to give them time to macerate and take on the flavours and aromas of the spiced syrup. For a dinner party, take the pears out of the fridge as you serve your starter, and they’ll be at room temperature when it’s time for dessert.

Except for the pears, put all the ingredients into a saucepan in which the pears will fit snugly. Bring to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes to melt the sugar and allow the syrup to thicken slightly. (Don’t worry if the perry froths up vigorously. The liquid will clear as it continues to simmer.)

Peel the pears, leaving the stalk intact, and lower them into the pan, making sure that they are covered by the syrup. Poach for 15–20 minutes until the fruit is tender when pierced with a small knife. Take the pan off the heat and transfer the cooled pears to a bowl, using a slotted spoon.

Return the pan to the heat and boil the poaching liquor steadily until it has reduced and thickened to a syrupy sauce. Pour this over the pears to coat.

Serve the pears warm or at room temperature, with vanilla ice cream or pouring cream.

Strawberry tart
SERVES 4–6

300g sweet flan pastry (see page 248)

30g white chocolate, chopped

100ml double cream

1
1
/
2
-2 tbsp icing sugar, to taste

1
/
2
quantity pastry cream (see page 249)

350-400g firm but ripe strawberries, hulled

2 tbsp strawberry jam, warmed and sieved

This fantastic tart looks and tastes amazing, particularly if you use ripe, seasonal, British strawberries. It makes the ultimate end to a summer dinner party. You can bake the pastry case and make the pastry cream filling the day before, ready to assemble a couple of hours before serving.

Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface to a large round, the thickness of a £1 coin. Use to line a 20cm round shallow tart tin, with removable base, leaving some excess pastry overhanging the rim. Leave to rest in the fridge for 30 minutes. Melt the chocolate in a bowl set over a pan of hot water, then take off the heat and cool slightly.

Preheat the oven to 190°C/Gas 5. Line the pastry with baking paper and dried or ceramic baking beans and bake ‘blind’ for 15–20 minutes until the sides are set and lightly golden. Remove the paper and beans and return to the oven for another 5 minutes. Remove from the oven, and while still warm, cut off the excess pastry to level with the rim of the tin. Brush the base and sides with the melted chocolate and leave to cool and set.

For the filling, whip the cream and icing sugar together in a large bowl until just stiff. Fold through the pastry cream. Spoon the filling into the cooled pastry base and level it with a spatula.

Thinly slice the strawberries and arrange them over the filling in overlapping concentric circles. Lightly brush with the warm strawberry jam to glaze. Best served on the same day.

BASICS
Chicken stock
MAKES ABOUT 1.5 LITRES

2 tbsp olive oil

1 large carrot, peeled and chopped

1 onion, peeled and chopped

2 celery sticks, trimmed and chopped

1 leek, trimmed and sliced

1 bay leaf

1 thyme sprig

3 garlic cloves, peeled

2 tbsp tomato purée

1kg raw chicken bones

about 2 litres water

sea salt and black pepper

Heat the olive oil in a stockpot. Add the vegetables, herbs and garlic and sauté over a medium heat until the vegetables are golden. Stir in the tomato purée and cook for another minute.

Add the chicken bones and then pour in enough cold water to cover, about 2 litres. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Bring to the boil and skim off any scum that rises to the surface. Reduce the heat and leave to simmer gently for 1 hour.

Let the stock stand for a few minutes to cool slightly, before passing through a fine sieve into a bowl. Leave to cool. Either refrigerate and use within 5 days, or freeze the stock in convenient portions for up to 3 months.

Brown chicken stock First roast the chicken bones in a roasting tin at 200°C/Gas 6 for 20 minutes, then continue as above. This stock has a greater depth of flavour than ordinary chicken stock.

Vegetable stock
MAKES ABOUT 1.5 LITRES

3 onions, peeled and roughly chopped

1 leek, trimmed and roughly chopped

2 celery sticks, trimmed and roughly chopped

6 carrots, peeled and roughly chopped

1 head of garlic, halved horizontally

1 tsp white peppercorns

1 bay leaf

about 2 litres water

bouquet garni (few sprigs each of thyme, basil, tarragon, coriander and parsley, tied together)

200ml dry white wine

sea salt and black pepper

Put the vegetables, garlic, peppercorns and bay leaf into a stockpot and pour on enough cold water to cover them, about 2 litres. Bring to the boil, lower the heat to a simmer and cook gently for 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and add the bouquet garni, wine and a little seasoning. Give the stock a stir and leave to cool completely.

If you have time, chill the stock overnight before straining. Pass it through a fine sieve into a bowl. Refrigerate and use within 5 days, or freeze in smaller amounts for up to 3 months.

Court bouillon
MAKES ABOUT 1.5 LITRES

1 leek, trimmed and chopped

1 carrot, peeled and chopped

1
/
2
celery stick, chopped

1 onion, peeled and quartered

bouquet garni (few sprigs each of thyme, tarragon and parsley, tied together)

1
/
4
tsp white peppercorns

1 tsp rock salt

1
/
2
lemon, sliced

100ml dry white wine

1.5 litres water

Place all the ingredients in a medium saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer for about 30 minutes. Strain the liquid through a fine sieve into a bowl or measuring jug, discarding the vegetables and flavourings.

Use the court bouillon as a poaching liquor for delicate fish and shellfish.

Beef or veal stock
MAKES ABOUT 1.5 LITRES

1.5 kg beef or veal marrow bones, chopped into 5-6cm pieces

2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to drizzle

2 onions, peeled

2 carrots, peeled

2 celery stalks

1 large fennel bulb, trimmed

1 tbsp tomato purée

2-2.5 litres water

100g button mushrooms

1 bay leaf

1 thyme sprig

1 tsp black peppercorns

Preheat the oven to 220°C/Gas 7. Put the meat bones into a roasting tin and drizzle with a little olive oil to coat. Roast for about an hour, turning over halfway, until evenly browned. Meanwhile, chop the vegetables into 5cm chunks.

Heat the olive oil in a large stockpot and add the onion, carrot, celery and fennel chunks. Cook over a high heat, stirring occasionally, until they are golden brown. Add the tomato purée and fry for another 2 minutes.

Add the browned bones to the pan and pour in enough cold water to cover. Bring to a simmer and skim off the froth and scum that rise to the surface. Add the mushrooms, bay leaf, thyme sprig and peppercorns. Simmer the stock for 6–8 hours until you are satisfied with the depth of flavour.

Let stand for a few minutes before passing through a fine sieve into a bowl. Leave to cool, then chill, or freeze in smaller amounts. Use fresh stock within 5 days, or keep frozen for up to 3 months.

Fish stock
MAKES ABOUT 1 LITRE

1kg white fish bones and trimmings

2 tbsp olive oil

1 small onion, peeled and chopped

1
/
2
celery stick, sliced

1 small fennel bulb, chopped

1 small leek, trimmed and sliced

sea salt and black pepper

75ml dry white wine

about 1-1.2 litres water

If using fish heads, remove the eyes and gills and wipe away any traces of blood. Heat the olive oil in a stockpot and add the onion, celery, fennel, leek and a little salt and pepper. Stir over a medium heat for 3–4 minutes until the vegetables begin to soften but not brown.

Add the wine, then the fish bones and trimmings. Pour in enough cold water to cover the ingredients and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and leave to cool.

Ladle the fish stock through a fine sieve into a bowl. Refrigerate and use within 2 days, or freeze in smaller quantities for up to 3 months.

Lamb stock
MAKES ABOUT 1.2 LITRES

1kg lamb rib or neck bones, in small pieces

60ml olive oil

1 onion, peeled and chopped

2 carrots, peeled and chopped

1 celery stick, chopped

1
/
2
head of garlic, split horizontally

1
/
2
tsp tomato purée

75ml dry white wine

about 2 litres water

1 bay leaf

few thyme sprigs

few flat-leaf parsley sprigs

1 tsp black peppercorns

Preheat the oven to 220°C/Gas 7. Spread the lamb bones out in a large roasting tin and drizzle with a little of the olive oil to coat. Roast for 45–60 minutes, turning halfway, until evenly browned.

Heat the remaining oil in a large stockpot. Add the onion, carrots, celery and garlic, and cook over a high heat, stirring occasionally, until golden brown. Add the tomato purée and cook for 2 minutes. Add the wine and let bubble until reduced by half.

Add the browned bones to the pan and pour in enough cold water to cover, about 2 litres. Bring to a simmer and skim off the froth and scum that rise to the surface. Add the herbs and peppercorns. Simmer the stock for 4–6 hours, until you are happy with the flavour.

Let stand for a few minutes before passing through a fine sieve into a bowl. Let cool, then refrigerate, or freeze in smaller amounts. Use fresh stock within 5 days, or keep frozen for up to 3 months.

Mayonnaise
MAKES ABOUT 600ML

4 large egg yolks

2 tsp white wine vinegar

2 tsp English mustard

sea salt and black pepper

600ml groundnut oil (or light olive oil)

1-2 tbsp cold water

Put the egg yolks, wine vinegar, mustard and some seasoning into a food processor and whiz until the mixture is very thick and creamy. With the motor running, slowly trickle in the oil in a steady stream through the funnel. Blend in the cold water to help stabilize the emulsion. Check the seasoning.

Transfer the mayonnaise to a suitable jar, cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

Lemon and tarragon hollandaise
MAKES ABOUT 100ML

2 large egg yolks

juice of
1
/
2
lemon, or to taste

100g chilled unsalted butter, cut into

small cubes sea salt and black pepper

handful of tarragon sprigs, leaves only, chopped

To make a water bath, bring a 3cm depth of water to the boil in a large, heavy-based saucepan. Put the egg yolks in a heatproof pudding basin with a little of the lemon juice, a cube of butter and some seasoning. Set the bowl over the pan of hot water and reduce the heat to a low simmer. Whisk the mixture until very thick and creamy, then beat in another cube of butter.

Continue beating, adding the butter a cube at a time, as the previous one has almost melted. Slide the pan off the heat if at any stage the water starts to get too hot. Once you have added all the butter, continue to beat until the sauce is thick enough to leave a trail across the surface when the spoon is drawn across it.

Lift the bowl off the hot water bath. Season the hollandaise with salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste. If it is very thick, add a tiny splash of cold water and mix well. Fold in the chopped tarragon to serve.

If not serving immediately, keep the hollandaise warm in a hot water bath off the heat and give it a stir every once in a while.

Red onion marmalade
MAKES 250ML

25g butter

500g red onions, halved and sliced

1
/
2
tbsp light soft brown sugar

250ml dry red wine

3 tbsp red wine vinegar

sea salt and black pepper

Melt the butter in a medium pan and add the onions and sugar. Stir frequently over a medium-high heat until the onions are soft and slightly caramelized. This may take 10–15 minutes.

Add the red wine and wine vinegar to the pan and scrape up the sediment from the base of the pan with a wooden spoon to deglaze. Let the liquid bubble until it has reduced right down and the pan is quite dry. The onions should be very soft. Season well with salt and pepper.

If not serving immediately, pot the red onion marmalade in a sterilized jar and seal while still hot. Delicious with pâtés and cheese tarts.

Roast potatoes
SERVES 4–6

1.2kg floury potatoes, such as King Edward

100g duck fat or olive oil

1 tbsp plain flour

few rosemary or thyme sprigs (optional)

Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas 6. Peel the potatoes and cut into large chunks. Add them to a pan of cold salted water, bring to the boil and parboil for 5 minutes.

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