At the same time, beyond the protective limits of the family home and the school across the street, Charles was gaining quite another kind of education. Just a few blocks south of Union Street, at the bottom of Telegraph Hill and overflowing as far south as Portsmouth Square, lay a notorious area called "Sydney-Town," later to be known as the Barbary Coast. For decades it inspired fulminations from preachers, reformers, and editors alike. The following tirade is representative:
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| | The petty thief, the house burglar, the tramp, the whore-monger, lewd women, cut-throats, murderers, all are found here. Dance-halls and concert-saloons, where blear-eyed men and faded women drink vile liquor, smoke offensive tobacco, engage in vulgar conduct, sing obscene songs and say and do everything to heap upon themselves more degradation, are numerous. Low gambling houses, thronged with riot-loving rowdies, in all stages of intoxication, are there. Opium dens, where heathen Chinese and God-forsaken men and women are sprawled in miscellaneous confusion, disgustingly drowsy or completely overcome, are there. Licentiousness, debauchery, pollution, loathsome disease, insanity from dissipation, misery, poverty, wealth, profanity, blasphemy, and death, are there. 10
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And there also was young Charles Stoddard, drawn to the hurdy-gurdy attractions of the "El Dorado," the "Arcade," and the "Polka.'' The doors of such dives were, after all, open to the public, and there did seem to be "a vast deal of jollity within." So Charles, either by himself or with a neighborhood chum, ventured inside to get his eyes' fill. At the faro tables the dealers were "beautiful women in bewildering attire," plying their trade with devil-may-care "greasers" and thrill-seeking sailors, their eyes glazed with lust and liquor. On the walls were hung lewd pictures that "young and innocent eyes ought never to have been laid on" (IFP 64). 11 But young Charles took in everything and everyone and, in doing so, became less and less innocent, although he was unable then to grasp the significance of it all.
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Charles had his share of conventional and wholesome boyhood experiences as well. There were family outings to "The Willows," a popular oasis offering animals in cages and an open-air theater, and to "Russ's Gardens," another resort out in the Mission District, which featured a German beer garden and acrobatic acts on Sundays. (Charles was especially struck by a muscular, near-naked tightrope walker named Blondin, who was later to become a partner of his friend Adah Isaacs Menken.) There were also jaunts with his neighborhood friends to the "Cobweb Palace" on Meigg's wharf, picnics at Fort Point and the Cliff
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