Fusilli bucati:
Similar to fusilli, which look like corkscrews, these noodles look more like bedsprings. They are a good choice for thick and hearty sauces because all the “goodness” gets trapped inside the spiral rather than just coating the exterior.
Elbows:
A classic for mac and cheese, this basic shape is also perfect with sour cream–or mayonnaise-based sauces for pasta salads.
Conchiglie (shells):
These come in various sizes, from very large ones meant for stuffing, to very small ones, which are called conchigliette. Shells are good with meat sauces, and the small ones work in any dish where you’d use elbow macaroni.
Rigatoni:
This wide, ridged, tube-shaped pasta has holes on either end that are large enough to capture pieces of meat or vegetables in a sauce. In addition, this kind of pasta is perfect for baked dishes made with sauce and cheese.
Penne:
These small tubes may be smooth or ridged (rigate). Penne is best used in soups, pasta salads, and with thicker sauces and casseroles, as the ingredients and sauces can penetrate the inside of the pasta. Penne rigate is ideal for meat, vegetable, or butter-and-oil-based sauces because the ridges hold the sauce.
1:
antipasti and appetizers
Most pasta meals, because they are generally relaxed even last-minute affairs, don’t seem to need a formal, plated first course. When I serve pasta to a group, or even just my family, I am much more likely to set out a few antipasti for people to nibble on than to prepare a separate appetizer course to serve at the table. Generally I make just one or two items, like a bruschetta or crostini, or perhaps some pickled vegetables, and arrange them on a board with sliced meats and cheese from the deli and pantry items like olives, marinated artichokes, pepperoncini, and roasted peppers. That way people can stave off hunger pangs and keep me company while I work in the kitchen, but no one gets too full and I don’t have to clear the table for the main event. Any of the recipes in this chapter would be welcome additions to an antipasto platter and equally nice to serve with a bowl of soup to make it a bit more of a meal.
4 to 6 servings
Be careful not to overheat the crostini; the cheese and tomatoes should be just warmed through and softened but not melted or falling apart. It’s perfect if you have slightly underripe tomatoes.
1 baguette, sliced ½ inch thick (30 to 36 slices)
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
5 Roma tomatoes, sliced
Freshly ground black pepper
1¼ pounds fresh mozzarella cheese, sliced
Leaves from 1 bunch of fresh basil
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Arrange the baguette slices on a baking sheet, brush with some of the olive oil, and sprinkle with salt. Bake until the bread is pale golden and crisp, about 5 minutes. Top each slice of bread with a slice of tomato and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Top with a slice of mozzarella cheese and sprinkle with salt. Return the baking sheet to the oven until the cheese and tomato are just warm, about 5 minutes.
Arrange the toasts on a serving platter. Top each toast with a basil leaf. Using the brush, drizzle the remaining olive oil over the basil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve.
6 servings
Goat cheese is something I like to use in many different ways, and this herb-y mixture is especially versatile. You can toss it with hot pasta for a quick, creamy sauce, or roll it into balls to top a salad, but I probably like these little toasts best of all. They’re so easy to make and they fly off the platter every time I serve them. The recipe can easily be doubled for a party. (See
photograph
.)
1 baguette, cut on the diagonal in 18 half-inch slices
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 ounces soft fresh goat cheese
2 ounces cream cheese
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
Salt and coarsely ground multicolored or black peppercorns
¼ cup pitted Sicilian green olives or kalamata olives, finely chopped
1 tablespoon finely chopped chives
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Arrange the bread slices on one or two large, heavy baking sheets. Brush the olive oil over the bread slices. Bake until the crostini are pale golden and crisp, about 10 to 15 minutes.
Blend the goat cheese and cream cheese in a food processor until smooth and creamy. Add the parsley, thyme, and lemon zest. Pulse just to blend. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spread the cheese mixture over the crostini. Sprinkle with the olives, chives, and more pepper. Arrange the toasts on a platter and serve.
Do-Ahead Tip
The crostini and cheese mixture can be prepared 2 days ahead. Store the crostini in an airtight container at room temperature. Cover and refrigerate the cheese mixture. Let the cheese mixture stand at room temperature for 1 hour to soften slightly before spreading.
6 servings
Think of this bruschetta as a portable salad that doesn’t require utensils or a plate—perfect for entertaining! (
See photograph
.)
1 baguette, cut on the diagonal in 18 half-inch slices
3 tablespoons olive oil
18 paper-thin slices prosciutto
1 (8-ounce) ball of fresh mozzarella, cut into 18 thin slices
1 head of frisée, leaves separated
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Arrange the bread slices on one or two large, heavy baking sheets and brush with the olive oil. Bake until the crostini are pale golden and crisp, about 10 to 15 minutes.
Place one slice of prosciutto on a work surface. Place a slice of cheese and 2 or 3 frisée leaves on top, allowing the tops to protrude from one end. Roll the prosciutto around the cheese and frisée and place on a toasted bread slice. Repeat with the remaining ingredients.
Arrange the crostini on a platter. Drizzle with the vinaigrette and serve.
