Everyday Italian (34 page)

Il Fornaio bakery in Los Angeles made a recipe for almond cake that I fell in love with many years ago. I’ve changed their recipe a bit to create a different texture, but the pronounced almond flavor remains the same. It’s very important to cream the butter and almond paste until it becomes thoroughly smooth.

MAKES 1 (8-INCH) ROUND CAKE

In a medium bowl, whisk together the cornmeal, cake flour, and baking powder. Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, beat the butter and almond paste on high speed until smooth, about 3 minutes. Reduce the speed to low and beat in the vanilla extract. Gradually add 1¼ cups of confectioners’ sugar, beating until the mixture is light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Increase the speed to high and beat in the egg yolks and whole eggs, one at a time. Reduce the speed to medium and add the sour cream and dry ingredients and mix until just incorporated.

Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan and smooth the surface with a spatula. Bake until the cake is golden and pulls away from the sides of the pan, about 35 minutes. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool. Remove the cake from the pan and dust with more confectioners’ sugar. (The cake can be made 1 day ahead. Store airtight in a plastic container.) Cut the cake into wedges and serve.

Amaretti
is strictly translated as “little bitters,” but colloquially it refers to light, airy, crunchy, dome-shaped almond cookies. The cookies are great on their own, but I also love them as an ingredient in a cake; the soft cake batter and the crunchy cookie provide a wonderful contrast. So when you can’t decide whether to have cookies or cake, just have both.

6 SERVINGS

In a small bowl, microwave the chocolate chips, stirring every 30 seconds, until melted and smooth, about 2 minutes.

In a food processor, combine the almonds and cookies, and pulse until finely ground. Transfer to a bowl. Add the butter, sugar, and orange zest to the processor and blend until creamy and smooth. With the machine running, add the eggs one at a time. Add the nut mixture and the melted chocolate. Pulse until blended.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until the center puffs and a tester inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, about 35 minutes. Cool the cake in the pan for 15 minutes. Transfer to a platter, sift the cocoa powder over, and serve.

Biscotti
means “twice baked,” a cooking method that results in the firm, crunchy cookies that have recently become wildly popular here in America. These cookies were eaten by sailors back in Columbus’s day because they last for a long time without going bad. They’re great for dunking in coffee or tea, which is how my mom, nonna, and I would eat them when I was growing up. The citrus zests provide an extra little zing, and really evoke the tastes of Italy. If you want, you could use just orange or lemon; it doesn’t have to be both.

MAKES 3 DOZEN COOKIES

Using a rubber spatula, transfer the dough to the prepared baking sheet, forming two equal mounds spaced evenly apart. Moisten your hands with water and shape the dough into two 11x4-inch logs. Bake until the logs are lightly browned, about 35 minutes. Cool for 5 minutes. Using a serrated knife, cut the logs crosswise into ½-inch-thick diagonal slices. Arrange the biscotti cut side down on the same baking sheet, and bake until the cookies are pale golden, about 25 minutes. Let cool before serving.

Pine nuts and fennel seed aren’t necessarily ingredients you expect to find in cookies—really, they sound much more like they’re going into a pesto—but they’re the secret flavors in this buttery, flaky shortbread dough that will melt in your mouth. Ground fennel seed isn’t as easy to find as the whole seeds, so buy them whole and grind them at home in a mortar and pestle or coffee/spice grinder. I like to make this dough ahead of time and freeze it, then bake it off as needed.

MAKES ABOUT 3 DOZEN COOKIES

Transfer the dough to a sheet of plastic wrap and shape into an 8-inch-long log. Wrap the dough in plastic and refrigerate for 2 hours.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Line 2 heavy, large baking sheets with parchment paper.

Cut the dough log crosswise into ⅛- to ¼-inch-thick slices. Transfer the cookies to the prepared baking sheets, spacing evenly apart. Press the pine nuts decoratively atop the cookies, and bake until the cookies are golden around the edges, about 15 minutes. (The cookies can be made 1 day ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.)

So this, my finale, is the ultimate in
Everyday Italian
cooking. Sure, there’s some cheating involved—I’m not asking you to bake a pound cake. But this distinct combination of Italian flavors will transport you to a piazza-side café, nibbling this great dessert, sipping espressos, and people-watching, instead of struggling in the kitchen for hours upon end. That’s been my goal in this book. I hope I’ve succeeded.

6 SERVINGS

In a small bowl, stir the apricot preserves and amaretto to blend. Working in batches, toast the pound cake slices in a toaster until golden.

Place 1 cake slice atop each of six plates, and spoon the mascarpone cheese atop the cake slices. Arrange the remaining cake slices offset atop the bottom cake slices. Spoon the apricot mixture over. Sprinkle with the almonds and serve immediately.

You could also grill the pound cake or toast it in the oven—
whatever is easier.

I’m indebted to my family, who have always inspired me to achieve great things, and of course for passing along the passion for food and family. My mother, for financing and supporting my culinary education and for all the love and support over the years—thanks. My Aunt Raffy, for sharing family recipe secrets and for all the fun we have cooking together—priceless. To my sister, Eloisa, my brother Igor, and my best friend, Jen—thank you for all your support and love.

To all the wonderful and talented people who helped create this cookbook and bring it to life. A special thanks to Victoria Pearson, the most gifted photographer I know, and Rori Trovato, a brilliant food stylist. Julie Clevering, the best darn makeup artist. Rochelle Palermo, for always being upbeat and positive about testing and retesting recipes—you are such a pleasure to work with. Eric Greenspan, my friend and lawyer (and manager), for always looking out for me. My editor, Chris Pavone at Clarkson Potter, who guided me so brilliantly and was so patient.

A special thanks to Anthropologie for being so generous and outfitting me.

To the Food Network for giving me the chance to share my love of Italian food and family with
sooo
many people. Bob Tuschman, who brought me to the Food Network family and who believed in me from the start—many thanks. Irene Wong, who is not only my producer (on
Everyday Italian
) but has become a wonderful friend—thank you for all your hard work and dedication. And a
big
thanks to the
Everyday Italian
team for all their hard work and for making my job so much fun.

And to Mario Batali: Thanks for all the great advice, my friend.