Essence and Alchemy (29 page)
Read Essence and Alchemy Online
Authors: Mandy Aftel
PERFUME BOTTLES
A true art form, down to the tassels and labels, the presentation of perfume has had an extremely indulgent history. Interestingly, the commercial perfume bottles are far more interesting and beautiful than the bottles created to hold perfume on a vanity table. The Lalique book is filled with treasures, as is
Commercial Perfume Bottles
, but the piece de resistance of books on perfume packaging is Ken Leach's.
Commercial Perfume Bottles
, but the piece de resistance of books on perfume packaging is Ken Leach's.
Â
Ball, Joanne Dubbs, and Dorothy Hehl Torem.
Commercial Fragrance Bottles.
Atglen, PA: Schiffer, 1993.
Commercial Fragrance Bottles.
Atglen, PA: Schiffer, 1993.
âââ.
Fragrance Bottle Masterpieces.
West Chester, PA: Schiffer, 1996.
Fragrance Bottle Masterpieces.
West Chester, PA: Schiffer, 1996.
Gaborit, Jean-Yves.
Perfumes: The Essences and Their Bottles.
New York: Rizzoli, 1985.
Perfumes: The Essences and Their Bottles.
New York: Rizzoli, 1985.
Jones-North, Jacquelyne.
Commercial Perfume Bottles.
West Chester, PA: Schiffer, 1987.
Commercial Perfume Bottles.
West Chester, PA: Schiffer, 1987.
âââ.
Perfume, Cologne and Scent Bottles.
West Chester, PA: Schiffer, 1986.
Perfume, Cologne and Scent Bottles.
West Chester, PA: Schiffer, 1986.
Latimer, Tirza True.
The Perfume Atomizer
. West Chester, PA: Schiffer, 1991.
The Perfume Atomizer
. West Chester, PA: Schiffer, 1991.
Launert, Edmund.
Perfume and Pomanders.
Munich: Georg D.W. Callwey, 1987.
Perfume and Pomanders.
Munich: Georg D.W. Callwey, 1987.
Leach, Ken.
Perfume
,
Presentation
. Toronto: Kres Publishing, 1997.
Perfume
,
Presentation
. Toronto: Kres Publishing, 1997.
Utt, Mary Lou, and Glenn Utt, with Patricia Bayer.
Lalique Perfume Bottles.
London: Thames and Hudson, 1990.
Lalique Perfume Bottles.
London: Thames and Hudson, 1990.
FROM PERFUMERIES
Many perfumeries have self-published stylish and beautiful books about their fragrances. Lanvin enlisted Colette to write an introduction.
The Romance of Perfume
, sumptuously illustrated by George Barbier, has a wealth of information about the history of perfumery.
The Romance of Perfume
, sumptuously illustrated by George Barbier, has a wealth of information about the history of perfumery.
Â
Colette.
L'Opera de l'Odorat.
Paris: Lanvin Parfums, 1949.
L'Opera de l'Odorat.
Paris: Lanvin Parfums, 1949.
Leffingwell, Albert.
Toujours de L'Avant.
New York: Pinaud, 1928.
Toujours de L'Avant.
New York: Pinaud, 1928.
Le Gallienne, Richard.
The Romance of Perfume.
New York: Richard Hudnut, 1928.
The Romance of Perfume.
New York: Richard Hudnut, 1928.
Sentenac, Paul.
History of a Perfumer.
Paris: House of Houbigant, 1925.
History of a Perfumer.
Paris: House of Houbigant, 1925.
Willer, Ellen, and Phillippe Lorin.
Jean Patou: Ma Collection.
Paris: Jean Patou, 1964.
Jean Patou: Ma Collection.
Paris: Jean Patou, 1964.
I
'D LIKE TO GIVE special thanks to a few people for their help and support. In the world of fragrance, I am particularly indebted to Annette Green for her generosity and her ongoing encouragement of my work, and to Avery Gilbert, who read and commented on sections of the manuscript. Eleanor Bertino helped me to get launched in the world of perfume. Jean Dougherty scanned all the art that appears in the book, handling my treasured old books with care and giving the images a new lease on life. Joel Bernstein helped with the photographs, deploying his characteristic perfectionism. Kudos to Susan Mitchell, Sanjay Kothari, and Abby Kagan for an inspired design that satisfies my fondest hopes for the look of the book, and thanks to Katrin Wilde for her unflappable good nature and attention to countless details. As ever, I am grateful to my agent, Peter Matson, for his warmth and his unwavering belief in me in all ways.
'D LIKE TO GIVE special thanks to a few people for their help and support. In the world of fragrance, I am particularly indebted to Annette Green for her generosity and her ongoing encouragement of my work, and to Avery Gilbert, who read and commented on sections of the manuscript. Eleanor Bertino helped me to get launched in the world of perfume. Jean Dougherty scanned all the art that appears in the book, handling my treasured old books with care and giving the images a new lease on life. Joel Bernstein helped with the photographs, deploying his characteristic perfectionism. Kudos to Susan Mitchell, Sanjay Kothari, and Abby Kagan for an inspired design that satisfies my fondest hopes for the look of the book, and thanks to Katrin Wilde for her unflappable good nature and attention to countless details. As ever, I am grateful to my agent, Peter Matson, for his warmth and his unwavering belief in me in all ways.
Ina Risman and Karen Dempsey go to lawyer heaven for their unlawyerly compassion and for bringing their formidable intelligence and skill to the aid of a damsel in distress. William Vollman has been a loyal and protective friend. Robin Lakoff has stood by me on all fronts and has never ceased to encourage my development as a writer. I appreciate Patty Curtan's generosity as well as her incomparable eye for design.
Above all, I want to thank Chris Chapman for a love and a deep connection that have immeasurably enriched my life; and Chloe, my daughter, the most precious gift of my life.
The index that appeared in the print version of this title does not match the pages of your eBook. Please use the search function on your eReading device to search for terms of interest. For your reference, the terms that appear in the print index are listed below.
Â
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absolutes
accessory notes
Addison, Joseph
Albini, Prospero
Albret, Jeanne d'
Alchemy (perfume)
alcohol
allergies
Altenberg, Peter
amber
ambergris
ambrette seed
angelica
animal essences
Anne of Austria
anointing
aphrodisiacs;
see also
erotic scents
Arctander, Steffen
aromatherapy
aromatics
Ayers, Harriet Hubbard
Aztecs
accessory notes
Addison, Joseph
Albini, Prospero
Albret, Jeanne d'
Alchemy (perfume)
alcohol
allergies
Altenberg, Peter
amber
ambergris
ambrette seed
angelica
animal essences
Anne of Austria
anointing
aphrodisiacs;
see also
erotic scents
Arctander, Steffen
aromatherapy
aromatics
Ayers, Harriet Hubbard
Aztecs
Bachelard, Gaston
balsam Peru
base notes (bottom notes) ambrette seed animal balsamic costus earthy edible erotogenic green resinous sets of tobacco woody
bath blends
bath oil
baths public scented solitary
bath salts
Baudelaire, Charles
Bayley, William
Beaux, Ernie
Bedichek, Roy
beeswax
Benedict XIV, Pope
Benjamin, Walter
benzoin
Berbers
bergamot
Bergson, Henri
Bernhardt, Sarah
Bible
black pepper
Bloch, Iwan
blotters, perfume
body notes
body odor
bois de rose
Borgia
boronia
bottom notes,
see base notes
Brunschwig, Hieronymus
Buddhists
Burckhardt, Titus
balsam Peru
base notes (bottom notes) ambrette seed animal balsamic costus earthy edible erotogenic green resinous sets of tobacco woody
bath blends
bath oil
baths public scented solitary
bath salts
Baudelaire, Charles
Bayley, William
Beaux, Ernie
Bedichek, Roy
beeswax
Benedict XIV, Pope
Benjamin, Walter
benzoin
Berbers
bergamot
Bergson, Henri
Bernhardt, Sarah
Bible
black pepper
Bloch, Iwan
blotters, perfume
body notes
body odor
bois de rose
Borgia
boronia
bottom notes,
see base notes
Brunschwig, Hieronymus
Buddhists
Burckhardt, Titus
cabreuva
Calvino, Italo
Canoe
cardamom
Carles, Jean
carriers
Casanova, Giovanni Giacomo
Castellus, Petrus
cedarwood, Virginia
chamois, scented
chamomile, Roman
champa
Chanel, Coco
Chanel No. 5
Charabot, Eugene
Charles I, King of England
Chiris (perfume house)
chords base heart top
chrism
Christian traditions
chypres (commercial classification)
cinnamon
citrus (commercial classification)
civet
clary sage
Classen, Constance
Cleopatra, Queen of Egypt
clove
cognac essence
Colette
cologne
color, perfume and
commercial perfume industry
complementary essences
composition commercial
categories and custom method of synesthesia and
concretes
coniunctio
Cooley, Arnold
Corbin, Alain
coriander
costus
Coty, François
couture, perfume and
Cowper, William
Calvino, Italo
Canoe
cardamom
Carles, Jean
carriers
Casanova, Giovanni Giacomo
Castellus, Petrus
cedarwood, Virginia
chamois, scented
chamomile, Roman
champa
Chanel, Coco
Chanel No. 5
Charabot, Eugene
Charles I, King of England
Chiris (perfume house)
chords base heart top
chrism
Christian traditions
chypres (commercial classification)
cinnamon
citrus (commercial classification)
civet
clary sage
Classen, Constance
Cleopatra, Queen of Egypt
clove
cognac essence
Colette
cologne
color, perfume and
commercial perfume industry
complementary essences
composition commercial
categories and custom method of synesthesia and
concretes
coniunctio
Cooley, Arnold
Corbin, Alain
coriander
costus
Coty, François
couture, perfume and
Cowper, William
Daché, Lilly
Dahl, Roald
Davis, Esmé
Descartes, René
Diaghilev, Serge
Dietrich, Marlene
diffusion
Diorissimo
distillation
Donovan (singer/composer)
dryout notes
Dahl, Roald
Davis, Esmé
Descartes, René
Diaghilev, Serge
Dietrich, Marlene
diffusion
Diorissimo
distillation
Donovan (singer/composer)
dryout notes
East India Company
Eau de Cologne
edible blend
Egyptians, ancient
Elixir of Life
Elizabeth I, Queen of England
Ellis, Havelock
enfleurage
Enlightenment
equipment
erogenous blend (recipe)
erotic scents
see also
aphrodisiacs
Euripides
expression
extraction, solvent
Eau de Cologne
edible blend
Egyptians, ancient
Elixir of Life
Elizabeth I, Queen of England
Ellis, Havelock
enfleurage
Enlightenment
equipment
erogenous blend (recipe)
erotic scents
see also
aphrodisiacs
Euripides
expression
extraction, solvent
Farina, Johann
fatigue, olfactory
fecal odors
Ficino, Marsilio
fir
fixation
floral (commercial classification)
floral essences
see also specific flowers
frankincense
Franklin, Benjamin
Freud, Sigmund
Fritzsche Brothers
fatigue, olfactory
fecal odors
Ficino, Marsilio
fir
fixation
floral (commercial classification)
floral essences
see also specific flowers
frankincense
Franklin, Benjamin
Freud, Sigmund
Fritzsche Brothers
galbanum
Gamero, Jean, III
genitalia, scent and
geranium
Gilchrist, Cherry
ginger
gloves, scented
Graham, James
grapefruit
Greek mythology
green (commercial classification)
Guenther, Ernest
Guerlain
Gamero, Jean, III
genitalia, scent and
geranium
Gilchrist, Cherry
ginger
gloves, scented
Graham, James
grapefruit
Greek mythology
green (commercial classification)
Guenther, Ernest
Guerlain
Haeffner, Mark
Halpern, Daniel
handkerchiefs, scented
Harlow, Jean
Hatshepsut, Queen of Egypt
head notes (top notes) citrus dry flowery green sets of spicy
heart notes (middle notes) fruity green light narcotic rosy sets of spicy
Henry IV, King of France
Hesse, Herman
Hindu mythology
Hunt, Roland
Huysmans, Joris-Karl
Halpern, Daniel
handkerchiefs, scented
Harlow, Jean
Hatshepsut, Queen of Egypt
head notes (top notes) citrus dry flowery green sets of spicy
heart notes (middle notes) fruity green light narcotic rosy sets of spicy
Henry IV, King of France
Hesse, Herman
Hindu mythology
Hunt, Roland
Huysmans, Joris-Karl
indol
International Flavors and Fragrances
International Fragrance Association (IFRA)
International Flavors and Fragrances
International Fragrance Association (IFRA)
jasmine
Jellinek, Paul
Jellinek, Stephan
Jews, ancient
Jicky
Josephine, Empress of France
Jung, Carl
Jellinek, Paul
Jellinek, Stephan
Jews, ancient
Jicky
Josephine, Empress of France
Jung, Carl
Kant, Immanuel
Keller, Helen
Kirlian photography
Krishna
Kundera, Milan
kyphi
Keller, Helen
Kirlian photography
Krishna
Kundera, Milan
kyphi
labdanum
Lalique, René
lavender
Lawless, Julia
leather, scented
Le Guérer, Annick
lemon
Lengyel, Laszlo
life force
Lillie, Charles
limbic lobe
lime
literature: on art of perfumery olfactory
litsea cubeba
Louis XIV, King of France
love potions
Lalique, René
lavender
Lawless, Julia
leather, scented
Le Guérer, Annick
lemon
Lengyel, Laszlo
life force
Lillie, Charles
limbic lobe
lime
literature: on art of perfumery olfactory
litsea cubeba
Louis XIV, King of France
love potions
Mallory, Thomas
Maple, Eric
Martial
Maupassant, Guy de
Medici, Catherine de
Medici, Cosimo di
meditatio
meditation
meditation blend
memory, odor and
menstruation
Michelspacher
middle notes,
see
heart notes
Miller, Henry
Miller, Iona
Miller, Richard
Miranda, Carmen
Mumford, Ethel Watts
music, perfume and
see also
chords
musk
Muslims
Maple, Eric
Martial
Maupassant, Guy de
Medici, Catherine de
Medici, Cosimo di
meditatio
meditation
meditation blend
memory, odor and
menstruation
Michelspacher
middle notes,
see
heart notes
Miller, Henry
Miller, Iona
Miller, Richard
Miranda, Carmen
Mumford, Ethel Watts
music, perfume and
see also
chords
musk
Muslims
Napoléon, Emperor of France
National Geographic
(magazine)
Nero, Emperor of Rome
neroli
Newton, Isaac
nutmeg
National Geographic
(magazine)
Nero, Emperor of Rome
neroli
Newton, Isaac
nutmeg
oakmoss
oils: carrier essential, definition of sacred
see also specific oils
olfactory membrane
Omar Khayyam (perfume)
orange: bitter blood sweet
orange flower
oriental (commercial classification)
Orissa tribe
ouroboros
oils: carrier essential, definition of sacred
see also specific oils
olfactory membrane
Omar Khayyam (perfume)
orange: bitter blood sweet
orange flower
oriental (commercial classification)
Orissa tribe
ouroboros
packaging
Paracelsus
Parliament, English
Passy, Jacques
patchouli
Pavlova, Anna
Peau d'Espagne
pepper, black
Peru balsam
petitgrain
pheromones
Philosopher's Stone
philosophy, alchemical
Piesse, Septimus
Plath, Sylvia
Plato
Pliny
Poiret, Paul
Polycarp, St.
Pope, Alexander
Poppaea
pregnancy
Proust, Marcel
Paracelsus
Parliament, English
Passy, Jacques
patchouli
Pavlova, Anna
Peau d'Espagne
pepper, black
Peru balsam
petitgrain
pheromones
Philosopher's Stone
philosophy, alchemical
Piesse, Septimus
Plath, Sylvia
Plato
Pliny
Poiret, Paul
Polycarp, St.
Pope, Alexander
Poppaea
pregnancy
Proust, Marcel
Quelques Fleurs
Quest International
quinta essentia
quintessence
Quest International
quinta essentia
quintessence
Ramses II, Pharaoh of Egypt
René (perfumer)
resins
Rilke, Rainer Maria
Rimmel, Eugene
Roman chamomile
Romans, ancient
Rondoletia
rosaries
rose
Rose Jacqueminot, La
rosewood
Roudnitska, Edmond
Rovesti, Paolo
René (perfumer)
resins
Rilke, Rainer Maria
Rimmel, Eugene
Roman chamomile
Romans, ancient
Rondoletia
rosaries
rose
Rose Jacqueminot, La
rosewood
Roudnitska, Edmond
Rovesti, Paolo
safety precautions
sage, clary
sandalwood
scent classification commercial erotic
see also
base notes; head notes; heart notes
scent strips,
see
blotters, perfume
Schiaparelli
Schimmel and Company
Schwartz-Salant, Nathan
Sendivogius, Michael
sensuality, scent and
see also
erotic scents
Shakespeare, William
smell, sense of how to train
solid perfume
see also
unguents
Soliman, Ahmed
solutio
spearmint
spirituality and fragrance
Steele, Richard
Stoddart, Michael
storage of essences
sublimatio
supplies sources for
Suskind, Patrick
Swift, Jonathan
synesthesia
synthetic essences
sage, clary
sandalwood
scent classification commercial erotic
see also
base notes; head notes; heart notes
scent strips,
see
blotters, perfume
Schiaparelli
Schimmel and Company
Schwartz-Salant, Nathan
Sendivogius, Michael
sensuality, scent and
see also
erotic scents
Shakespeare, William
smell, sense of how to train
solid perfume
see also
unguents
Soliman, Ahmed
solutio
spearmint
spirituality and fragrance
Steele, Richard
Stoddart, Michael
storage of essences
sublimatio
supplies sources for
Suskind, Patrick
Swift, Jonathan
synesthesia
synthetic essences
tangerine
tarragon
Taylor, F. Sherwood
thalamus
Tisserand, Robert
tobacco
top notes: an essence's first perceptible scent as heart notes
Tutankhamen
tarragon
Taylor, F. Sherwood
thalamus
Tisserand, Robert
tobacco
top notes: an essence's first perceptible scent as heart notes
Tutankhamen
Umeda tribe
unguents
unguents
vanilla
vetiver
Virginia cedarwood
volatility
vomeronasal organ
vetiver
Virginia cedarwood
volatility
vomeronasal organ
Wells, H. G.
White Shoulders
Whitman, Walt
Wilde, Oscar
Wildwood, Christine
White Shoulders
Whitman, Walt
Wilde, Oscar
Wildwood, Christine
Yanomamö tribe
ylang ylang
ylang ylang
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