Essence and Alchemy (25 page)
Read Essence and Alchemy Online
Authors: Mandy Aftel
INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER I. THE SPIRIT OF THE ALCHEMIST: A NATURAL HISTORY OF PERFUME
3
The alchemical symbol
means “coagulate.”
means “coagulate.”4
“Odor, oftener”:
Roy Bedichek,
The Sense of Smell
(London: Michael Joseph, 1960), p. 218.
Roy Bedichek,
The Sense of Smell
(London: Michael Joseph, 1960), p. 218.
5
“We are often”:
Constance Classen,
The Color of Angels
(London: Routledge, 1998), pp. 152â53.
Constance Classen,
The Color of Angels
(London: Routledge, 1998), pp. 152â53.
6
“who lived, completely naked”:
Paolo Rovesti,
In Search of Perfumes Lost
(Venice: Blow-up, 1980), p. 23.
Paolo Rovesti,
In Search of Perfumes Lost
(Venice: Blow-up, 1980), p. 23.
7
Umeda hunters:
Constance Classen, David Howes, and Anthony Synnott,
Aroma
(London: Routledge, 1994), p. 7.
Constance Classen, David Howes, and Anthony Synnott,
Aroma
(London: Routledge, 1994), p. 7.
8
The Berbers of Morocco:
Gabrielle J. Dorland,
Scents Appeal
(Mendham, NJ: Wayne Dorland Company, 1993), p. 187.
Gabrielle J. Dorland,
Scents Appeal
(Mendham, NJ: Wayne Dorland Company, 1993), p. 187.
9
“could recognize an old country house”:
Classen,
The Color of Angels
, pp. 152â53.
Classen,
The Color of Angels
, pp. 152â53.
10
“He would often”:
Patrick Suskind,
Perfume
(London: Penguin, 1986), p. 35.
Patrick Suskind,
Perfume
(London: Penguin, 1986), p. 35.
11
“Our olfactory experiences”:
Havelock Ellis,
Studies in the Psychology of Sex: Sexual Selection in Man
(Philadelphia: F. A. Davis Co., 1905), pp. 54â55.
Havelock Ellis,
Studies in the Psychology of Sex: Sexual Selection in Man
(Philadelphia: F. A. Davis Co., 1905), pp. 54â55.
12
“A scent may drown years”:
Walter Benjamin, “On Some Motifs in Baudelaire,”
Illuminations
(New York: Schocken Books, 1985), p. 184.
Walter Benjamin, “On Some Motifs in Baudelaire,”
Illuminations
(New York: Schocken Books, 1985), p. 184.
13
“When it is said”:
Henri Bergson,
Time and Free Will
(Kila, MT: Kessinger, 1997), p. 9.
Henri Bergson,
Time and Free Will
(Kila, MT: Kessinger, 1997), p. 9.
14
“These memories”:
Henri Bergson,
Creative Evolution,
trans. Arthur Mitchell (New York: Dover, 1998). pp. 7â8.
Henri Bergson,
Creative Evolution,
trans. Arthur Mitchell (New York: Dover, 1998). pp. 7â8.
15
“can readily be understood”:
Classen,
The Color of Angels,
p. 60.
Classen,
The Color of Angels,
p. 60.
16
Roman Empire:
Giuseppe Donato and Monique Seefried,
The Fragrant Past
(Atlanta: Emory University Museum of Art and Archaeology, 1989), p. 55.
Giuseppe Donato and Monique Seefried,
The Fragrant Past
(Atlanta: Emory University Museum of Art and Archaeology, 1989), p. 55.
17
Jung on alchemy:
Carl Jung,
Psychology and Alchemy
(Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1993), pp. 288-89, 314â16.
Carl Jung,
Psychology and Alchemy
(Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1993), pp. 288-89, 314â16.
18
“The quinta essentia”:
Paracelsus,
Selected Writings,
ed. Jolande Jacobi: (Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1988), pp. 145â47.
Paracelsus,
Selected Writings,
ed. Jolande Jacobi: (Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1988), pp. 145â47.
19
“so loaded with unconscious”:
Carl Jung,
Mysterium Coniunctionis
(Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1989), p. 114.
Carl Jung,
Mysterium Coniunctionis
(Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1989), p. 114.
20
“The combination of two bodies”:
F. Sherwood Taylor,
The Alchemists
(New York: Barnes and Noble, 1992), p. 250.
F. Sherwood Taylor,
The Alchemists
(New York: Barnes and Noble, 1992), p. 250.
21
“For the
people of earlier agrs”:
Titus Burckhardt,
Alchemy
(London: Element, 1987), pp. 57â59.
people of earlier agrs”:
Titus Burckhardt,
Alchemy
(London: Element, 1987), pp. 57â59.
22
“All alchemical thinking”:
Nathan Schwartz-Salant,
The Mystery of Human Relationship
(London: Routledge, 1998), p. 16.
Nathan Schwartz-Salant,
The Mystery of Human Relationship
(London: Routledge, 1998), p. 16.
23
René the perfumer:
C.J.S. Thompson,
The Mystery and Lure of Perfume
(Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott, 1927), p. 102.
C.J.S. Thompson,
The Mystery and Lure of Perfume
(Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott, 1927), p. 102.
24
Charles Lillie:
Charles Lillie,
The British Perfumer
(London: W. Seaman, 1822), pp. xâxii.
Charles Lillie,
The British Perfumer
(London: W. Seaman, 1822), pp. xâxii.
25
“the truly artistic part”:
Eugene Rimmel,
The Book of Perfumes
(London: Chapman and Hall, 1865), p. 236.
Eugene Rimmel,
The Book of Perfumes
(London: Chapman and Hall, 1865), p. 236.
26
“It may be useful”:
Arnold J. Cooley,
Instructions and Cautions Respecting the Selection and Use of Perfumes, Cosmetics, and Other Toilet Articles
(Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott, 1873), p. 555.
Arnold J. Cooley,
Instructions and Cautions Respecting the Selection and Use of Perfumes, Cosmetics, and Other Toilet Articles
(Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott, 1873), p. 555.
27
“As a child”:
Peter Altenberg,
The Vienna Coffeehouse Wits, 1890-1938
, ed. Harold B. Segel (West Lafayette, IN: Purdue University Press, 1993), p. 136.
Peter Altenberg,
The Vienna Coffeehouse Wits, 1890-1938
, ed. Harold B. Segel (West Lafayette, IN: Purdue University Press, 1993), p. 136.
28
“Modern perfume”:
J. Stephan Jellinek, “The Birth of a Modern Perfume,”
Dragoco Report,
March 1998, p. 13.
J. Stephan Jellinek, “The Birth of a Modern Perfume,”
Dragoco Report,
March 1998, p. 13.
29
“It was, for the first time”:
J. Stephan Jellinek, “Scents and Society: Observations on Women's Perfumes, 1880,”
Dragoco Report
, March 1997, p. 90.
J. Stephan Jellinek, “Scents and Society: Observations on Women's Perfumes, 1880,”
Dragoco Report
, March 1997, p. 90.
30
“Artificial perfurmes obviously present”:
J. P. Durvelle,
The Preparation of Perfumes and Cosmetics
(London: Scott, Greenwood and Son, 1923), p. 112.
J. P. Durvelle,
The Preparation of Perfumes and Cosmetics
(London: Scott, Greenwood and Son, 1923), p. 112.
31
The shift can be
traced: Schimmel Reports,
1895, 1898, 1901, 1902.
traced: Schimmel Reports,
1895, 1898, 1901, 1902.
32
“Our experience”: Schimmel Report,
1898.
1898.
33
On Coty:
Elisabeth Barille,
Coty
(Paris: Editions Assouline, 1995), p. 112; J. Stephan Jellinek, “The Birth of a Modern Perfume.”
Elisabeth Barille,
Coty
(Paris: Editions Assouline, 1995), p. 112; J. Stephan Jellinek, “The Birth of a Modern Perfume.”
34
On Paul Poiret and Ahmed Soliman:
Ken Leach,
Perfume Presentation
(Toronto: Kres Publishing, 1997), p. 92.
Ken Leach,
Perfume Presentation
(Toronto: Kres Publishing, 1997), p. 92.
35
“The more we penetrate”:
Edmond Roudnitska, “The Art of Perfumery,” in
Perfumes: Art, Science, and Technology,
ed. P. M. Müller and D. Lamparsky (London: Elsevier, 1991), p. 45.
Edmond Roudnitska, “The Art of Perfumery,” in
Perfumes: Art, Science, and Technology,
ed. P. M. Müller and D. Lamparsky (London: Elsevier, 1991), p. 45.
36
“Magic has power”:
Paracelsus,
Selected Writings,
p. 137.
Paracelsus,
Selected Writings,
p. 137.
37
“Philosophers agree”:
Henri Bergson,
Introduction to Metaphysics
(Kila, MT: Kessinger, 1998), p. 159.
Henri Bergson,
Introduction to Metaphysics
(Kila, MT: Kessinger, 1998), p. 159.
38
“subtle bodies”:
Carl Jung,
Jung on Alchemy
, ed. Nathan Schwartz-Salant (London: Routledge, 1998), p. 148.
Carl Jung,
Jung on Alchemy
, ed. Nathan Schwartz-Salant (London: Routledge, 1998), p. 148.
39
“The alchemist is an educator”:
Gaston Bachelard,
The Poetics of Reverie
(Boston: Beacon, 1971), p. 76.
Gaston Bachelard,
The Poetics of Reverie
(Boston: Beacon, 1971), p. 76.
40
“The alchemist is described”:
Cherry Gilchrist,
The Elements of Alchemy
(London: Element, 1991), pp. 7â8.
Cherry Gilchrist,
The Elements of Alchemy
(London: Element, 1991), pp. 7â8.
41
“the object of art”:
Bergson,
Time and Free Will,
p. 14.
Bergson,
Time and Free Will,
p. 14.
42
“It is our task”:
Paracelsus,
Selected Writings,
p. III.
Paracelsus,
Selected Writings,
p. III.
CHAPTER 2. PRIMA MATERIA: PERFUME BASICS
43
The alchemical symbol
denotes ethyl alcohol.
denotes ethyl alcohol.44
“In alchemy the prima materia”:
Lyndy Abraham,
A Dictionary of Alchemical Imagery
(Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1998), p. 153.
Lyndy Abraham,
A Dictionary of Alchemical Imagery
(Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1998), p. 153.
45
“Why natural oils?”:
Robert Tisserand,
The Art of Aromatherapy
(Rochester, VT: Healing Arts Press, 1977), p. 46.
Robert Tisserand,
The Art of Aromatherapy
(Rochester, VT: Healing Arts Press, 1977), p. 46.
46
“If you have taken”:
Marsilio Ficino,
The Book of Life
(Woodstock, CT: Spring Publications, 1996), p. 67.
Marsilio Ficino,
The Book of Life
(Woodstock, CT: Spring Publications, 1996), p. 67.
47
“The souls of these
noblest”:
Patrick Suskind,
Perfume
(London: Penguin, 1986), p. 186.
noblest”:
Patrick Suskind,
Perfume
(London: Penguin, 1986), p. 186.
48
“
Try to determine”:
Edmond Roudnitska, “The Art of Perfumery,” in
Perfumes:
Art, Science, and
Technology,
ed. P. M. Müller and D. Lamparsky (London: Elsevier, 1991), p. 18.
Try to determine”:
Edmond Roudnitska, “The Art of Perfumery,” in
Perfumes:
Art, Science, and
Technology,
ed. P. M. Müller and D. Lamparsky (London: Elsevier, 1991), p. 18.
49
Steffen Arctander:
Steffen Arctander,
Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin
(Elizabeth, NJ: Self-published, 1960), p. 28.
Steffen Arctander,
Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin
(Elizabeth, NJ: Self-published, 1960), p. 28.
50
Here is a
method:
I have adapted my sampling method from that described
by Tony Curtis and David G. Williams in their
Introduction to Perfumery
(Hertfordshire, England: Ellis Horwood, 1994), p. 520.
method:
I have adapted my sampling method from that described
by Tony Curtis and David G. Williams in their
Introduction to Perfumery
(Hertfordshire, England: Ellis Horwood, 1994), p. 520.
51
“There is no evidence”:
Christine Wildwood,
The Encyclopedia of Aromatherapy
(Rochester, VT: Healing Arts Press, 1996), p. 24.
Christine Wildwood,
The Encyclopedia of Aromatherapy
(Rochester, VT: Healing Arts Press, 1996), p. 24.
CHAPTER 3. THE CALCULUS OF FIXATION: BASE NOTES
52
The alchemical symbol
means “fixed.”
means “fixed.”53
“The perfumer should be totally unprejudited”:
Jean Carles, “A Method of Creation in Perfumery,” in
Perfume,
ed. William I. Kaufman (New York: Dutton and Co., 1974), p. 173.
Jean Carles, “A Method of Creation in Perfumery,” in
Perfume,
ed. William I. Kaufman (New York: Dutton and Co., 1974), p. 173.
54
“The motivated and experienced perfumer”:
Edmond Roudnitska, “The Art of Perfumery,” in
Perfumes: Art,
Science,
and Technology,
ed. P. M. Müller and D. Lamparsky (London: Elsevier, 1991), p. 7.
Edmond Roudnitska, “The Art of Perfumery,” in
Perfumes: Art,
Science,
and Technology,
ed. P. M. Müller and D. Lamparsky (London: Elsevier, 1991), p. 7.
55
“The first phase of the
alchemical process”:
Richard and Iona Miller,
The Modern Alchemist
(Grand Rapids, MI: Phanes Press, 1994), p. 64.
alchemical process”:
Richard and Iona Miller,
The Modern Alchemist
(Grand Rapids, MI: Phanes Press, 1994), p. 64.
56
“It would be ridiculous”:
Edmond Roudnitska, “The Shapes of Fragrances,”
Dragoco Report,
January 1976, p. 18.
Edmond Roudnitska, “The Shapes of Fragrances,”
Dragoco Report,
January 1976, p. 18.
57
On duration:
Henri Bergson,
Duration and Simultaneity
(Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill, 1965), p. 44.
Henri Bergson,
Duration and Simultaneity
(Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill, 1965), p. 44.
58
“In our inner life”:
Henri Bergson,
The Creative Mind
(New York: Citadel Press, 1992), p. 32.
Henri Bergson,
The Creative Mind
(New York: Citadel Press, 1992), p. 32.
59
“Our psychic states”:
Bergson,
The Creative Mind,
p. 19.
Bergson,
The Creative Mind,
p. 19.
60
“We speak of change”:
Bergson,
The Creative Mind,
p. 131.
Bergson,
The Creative Mind,
p. 131.
61
On harvesting sandalwood:
Edwin T. Morris,
Fragrance
(Greenwich, CT: E. T. Morris and Co., 1984), p. 98.
Edwin T. Morris,
Fragrance
(Greenwich, CT: E. T. Morris and Co., 1984), p. 98.
62
History of ambergris:
A. Hyatt Verrill,
Perfumes and Spices
(Clinton, MA: L. C. Page, 1940), p. 135.
A. Hyatt Verrill,
Perfumes and Spices
(Clinton, MA: L. C. Page, 1940), p. 135.
63
“It has a particular soft”:
Steffen Arctander,
Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin
(Elizabeth, NJ: Self-published, 1960), p. 195.
Steffen Arctander,
Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin
(Elizabeth, NJ: Self-published, 1960), p. 195.
64
Papal bull:
G. W. Septimus Piesse,
The Art of Perfumery
(Philadelphia: Lindsay and Blakiston, 1867), p. 142.
G. W. Septimus Piesse,
The Art of Perfumery
(Philadelphia: Lindsay and Blakiston, 1867), p. 142.
Other books
Last Flight of the Ark by D.L. Jackson
Vengeance by Michelle Madow
Between the Roots by A. N. McDermott
The Wolfe Wager by Jo Ann Ferguson
Murder in Montparnasse by Kerry Greenwood
Love 'N' Marriage by Debbie MacOmber
Poppet by Mo Hayder
I Am Livia by Phyllis T. Smith
A Separate Peace by John Knowles
Jericho's Fall by Stephen L. Carter
