Eating Italy: A Chef's Culinary Adventure (33 page)

When ready to serve, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Drop in the ravioli, quickly return the water to a boil, and cook until tender yet firm, 2 to 3 minutes.

Meanwhile, melt the remaining 6 tablespoons (85 g) of butter in a large, deep sauté pan over medium heat. Add the thyme, and cook until the butter turns golden brown and the milk solids brown on the bottom of the pan, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, stand back, and stir in the vinegar; it will sputter. Taste and season with salt and pepper.

Drain the ravioli, place twelve to fifteen on each plate, and sprinkle with the remaining 3 tablespoons (19 g) of Parmesan. Pour the balsamic brown butter over and around the ravioli.

FRITTO MISTO DI PESCE

I make a fish fry every time I visit Venice. If you have an apartment with a small kitchen, fritto misto is the best thing to do with all that great fish in the market. I usually fry up some vegetables, too, such as eggplant and zucchini. But experiment with baby artichokes or whatever’s fresh in the produce bins. A little semolina flour in the breading gives you great crunch. Just season everything with salt and pepper as it comes out of the fryer, squeeze on some lemon, and you’re good to go!

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Oil, for frying

About 4 cups (1 L) whole milk, for soaking fish and vegetables

6 ounces (170 g) squid, cleaned and cut into 3-inch (7.5 cm)-wide strips (not rings)

6 ounces (170 g) skate wing, cut on the bone into 3-inch (7.5-cm) pieces

6 ounces (170 g) fresh whole anchovies, gutted and cleaned

6 ounces (170 g) baby cod, cut into 3-inch (7.5-cm) pieces

6 ounces (170 g) medium (U50 or 41/50) shrimp, left whole and unpeeled

1 medium-size white onion, thickly sliced and separated into rings

1 medium-size zucchini, cut into 3-inch (7.5-cm) sticks

¼ medium-size eggplant, cut into 3-inch(7.5-cm) sticks

2 cups (250 g)
tipo
00 flour (see
page 277
) or all-purpose flour

1 cup (167 g) semolina flour

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Lemon wedges, for squeezing

Heat the oil in a deep fryer to 350°F (175°C). Divide the milk between two bowls.

Prepare all the fish and vegetables and place the fish in one bowl of milk to cover, and place the vegetables in the other bowl of milk.

Combine the flours in a medium bowl. Drain each piece of fish from the milk, dredge it in the flour mixture, and then fry it until golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes, adjusting the heat to maintain the 350°F (175°C) oil temperature at all times. Transfer the fish to paper towels and immediately season with salt and pepper. Repeat with the remaining fish and vegetables.

Serve on butcher paper with the lemon wedges.

COCONUT LATTE FRITTO
with
PASSION FRUIT CURD

You can find
latte fritto
anywhere in Venice. It’s basically thickened pastry cream cut into little pieces, breaded and fried, and served as a sweet snack or dessert. The trick is to cook out the flour so the custard gets nice and thick. Then you can cut it easily when it cools. They don’t use coconut milk in Venice but I wanted some more tropical flavors here. With passion fruit curd for dipping, it’s a more aromatic twist on the traditional dish.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Passion Fruit Curd:

15 passion fruits, or 1 cup (235 ml) passion fruit puree

2 large eggs

12 large egg yolks

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon (213 g) granulated sugar

1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

Pinch of salt

8 ounces (2 sticks/227 g) unsalted butter, chopped

Coconut Latte Fritto:

3 cups (750 ml) unsweetened fresh or canned coconut milk, divided

¾ cup (94 g)
tipo
00 flour (see
page 277
) or all-purpose flour, plus 1 cup (125 g), for dredging

⅔ cup (133 g) granulated sugar, plus some for coating

3 large egg yolks

Oil, for frying

3 large eggs

1 cup (108 g) plain, dry breadcrumbs

For the passion fruit curd:
Set a fine-mesh sieve over the top of a double boiler or a medium heatproof bowl. Working over the sieve, cut the passion fruits in half and use a spoon to scrape the pulp, seeds and all, into the sieve. Use a rubber spatula to gently push the fruit pulp through the sieve. Discard the seeds. You should have 1 cup (235 ml) of passion fruit puree. Whisk in the eggs, egg yolks, sugar, vanilla, and salt and set the pan or bowl over a pan of gently simmering water. Whisk constantly until the mixture heats gently and thickens enough for the whisk to leave ribbons of curd when lifted from the pan, 10 to 15 minutes. Put the chopped butter in a medium bowl and pour the hot curd over the top. Whisk until the butter is completely melted and blended into the curd. Let cool and refrigerate until ready to serve or up to 5 days.

For the coconut latte fritto:
Bring 2 cups (475 ml) of the coconut milk to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Meanwhile, whisk together the flour, sugar, remaining 1 cup (235 ml) of coconut milk, and egg yolks in a medium bowl. Temper the egg mixture by slowly adding and stirring in ½ cup (120 ml) of the hot coconut milk. Lower the heat to medium-low and pour the egg mixture into the saucepan of hot coconut milk. Cook until the mixture thickens, 15 to 20 minutes, whisking constantly to prevent scrambling the eggs on the bottom of the pan. The mixture should thicken enough to pull away from the sides of the pan, sort of like choux pastry when the liquid fat starts to separate out a tiny bit. Line a 2-quart (2-L) baking dish, such as an 8-inch (20 cm) square pan, with enough foil to overhang the edges as a sling. Pour in the fritto mixture, smooth the top, and let cool slightly. Press plastic onto the top, and then refrigerate until the mixture sets up enough to be cut into squares like soft fudge, at least 8 hours or up to 2 days.

Heat the oil in a deep fryer or deep pot to 325°F (160°C). Cut the cold coconut latte into 1-inch (2.5-cm) squares. Put the eggs, flour, and breadcrumbs in three separate bowls, and then carefully dip each square of coconut latte in the flour, then the egg, then the breadcrumbs, making sure the cubes are thoroughly coated. Fry in the hot oil until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Fry in batches, if necessary, to prevent overcrowding. Drain on paper towels, and then toss in granulated sugar to coat.

To serve:
Place a few pieces of hot coconut latte fritto on each plate with a generous spoonful of passion fruit curd for dipping.

HEIRLOOM APPLE UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE
with
POLENTA GELATO

This recipe has little to do with Italy, except for the polenta gelato. I started making it a few years ago at Osteria in Philadelphia. Some guys from Agusta, an Italian helicopter company in northeast Philly, came into the restaurant and couldn’t believe I had polenta gelato on the menu. They were from Bergamo! They started coming in regularly and one guy, Giovanni, from the south of Italy, refused to eat the gelato because polenta is only found in northern Italy. It was like moving mountains to get him to try it. He finally tried it and all the northerners made fun of him, calling him a
polentone
(slang for a polenta eater from the north). We eventually became friends with the Bergamascans in their group and now celebrate Easter with them. It makes Claudia feel more at home.

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Apple Cake:

6 ounces (1½ sticks/170 g) unsalted butter, softened, plus some for greasing the pan

7 Granny Smith apples

3¾ cups (750 g) granulated sugar, divided

3 large eggs

6 large egg yolks, divided

¾ cup (120 g) finely ground cornmeal, sifted

¾ teaspoon (3.5 g) baking powder

½ teaspoon (3 g) salt

Apple Coulis:

1 pound (450 g) heirloom apples (about 3)

1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar

1 small cinnamon stick

To Serve:

½ cup (80 g) coarse yellow cornmeal (polenta)

4 cups (1 L) Polenta Gelato (
page 287
)

For the cakes:
Butter a 9-inch (23-cm) round cake pan. Peel, core, and slice the apples about ¼ inch (6.25 mm) thick. Pour 2¾ cups (550 g) of the sugar into a deep sauté pan and add just enough water to moisten the sugar into a thick paste, about ½ cup (120 ml). Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat and cook until the sugar dissolves and turns medium amber, 6 to 8 minutes. Stand back and add 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of water, stirring to soften the caramel. Stir in the apples, and cook over high heat until the apples begin to soften and the caramel thickens, 3 to 5 minutes. Pour the apples into the prepared pan and let cool.

Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C). In the bowl of a stand mixer, cream the butter and remaining 1 cup (200 g) of sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the eggs and half of the egg yolks, one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl a few times. Mix together the cornmeal, baking powder, and salt and alternately add the mixture to the bowl with the remaining yolks. Pour the batter over the apples and bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, about 40 minutes. Remove and let cool in the pan on a rack for 15 minutes. When almost cooled, invert onto a large plate or platter.

For the apple coulis:
Peel, core, and coarsely chop the apples. Transfer to a large deep sauté pan and add the sugar, cinnamon stick, and 1 cup (235 ml) of water. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, then lower the heat to medium and simmer until the apples become very soft, about 20 minutes, stirring a few times. Remove the cinnamon stick and puree the mixture in a blender until smooth. Refrigerate until ready to use or up to 5 days.

To serve:
Toast the coarse polenta in a dry pan over medium-high heat until fragrant, 3 to 4 minutes, shaking the pan often. To plate, draw an X on each plate with the apple coulis and put a slice of apple cake over the coulis a little off center. Sprinkle some toasted polenta in the open area and place a scoop of polenta gelato on top.

RUSTIC PEACH TART
with
GOAT CHEESE SORBET

I don’t know how to describe the peaches in Italy. They’re just amazing. Small, soft, and dense with liquid sugar. In summertime, you have no trouble finding mounds and mounds of perfect ones in the produce markets. Here’s something simple to do with them. Nothing fancy. At Osteria, we serve these as individual tarts (as shown on
page 192
), but I wrote the recipe here for a single tart because it’s easier to make and serve that way at home. If you want to make individual tarts, just roll out several smaller rounds of tart dough instead of one large one. This recipe reminds me of the rustic pies and tarts my grandmother Jacqueline Michaud used to make when I was growing up in New Hampshire. I grew up right next door to her. She was the chef in the family and one of my earliest culinary inspirations. I had ice cream with my peach pie as a kid, but as an adult I crave sharper flavors. Goat Cheese Sorbet adds just the right amount. You could also serve this with Raspberry Sorbet (
page 288
) if you like.

MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS

Tart Dough and Peaches:

3⅔ cups (460 g)
tipo
00 flour (see
page 277
) or all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon (6 g) salt

1⅓ cups (300 g) cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes

⅔ cup (150 ml) cold water

6 ripe peaches

Almond Frangipane:

2 cups (190 g) finely ground almonds

1 tablespoon (8 g)
tipo
00 flour (see
page 277
) or all-purpose flour

1¾ cups (210 g) confectioners’ sugar, divided

9 tablespoons (213 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 large eggs

1 large egg yolk

To Serve:

2 tablespoons (25 g) granulated sugar

1 large egg

2 tablespoons (25 g) turbinado or raw sugar

5 cups (1.25 L) Goat Cheese Sorbet (
page 288
)

For the tart dough and peaches:
Combine the flour and salt in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment on low speed, or whisk together in a mixing bowl. Add the butter and mix on medium-low speed until the butter is cut into very small pieces throughout the flour, or use a pastry cutter to cut the butter into the flour in the bowl. Slowly pour in the water and mix just until the dough comes together. Turn out onto a sheet of plastic wrap and quickly gather the dough into a ball. Press it into a disk and wrap in the plastic. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 1 day.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil and fill a large bowl with ice water. Score an X on the bottom of each peach. Working in two batches, drop the peaches in the boiling water for 1 minute, and then transfer them to the ice water to cool. Remove the peels with a paring knife, cut in half around the pits, and remove the pits. Slice the peaches about ¼ inch (6 mm) thick and set aside.