Dip It! (19 page)

SHRIMP AND CRAB CRACKERS (CHINESE)
Asian markets carry these fried and sold in cellophane bags, just like potato chips, or boxed and ready to deep-fry yourself. Fry the thin, almost transparent uncooked chips as for Far Far.

Tips for Deep-Frying

• Deep-fried foods should really “swim” in the hot oil. Be generous with the amount of fat you add to the pot—it should come at least 3 inches up the sides.
  

• Use a deep-frying thermometer to judge the temperature of the oil. Adding the food to the oil will drop the temperature, so deep-fry the food at high heat to keep the temperature as steady as possible. Allow the oil to return to the proper cooking temperature before frying subsequent batches.
  

• Never crowd the ingredients in the oil. It’s a sure way to get soggy fried food.
  

• A large wire-mesh skimmer, available at Asian markets, works best for removing deep-fried foods from hot oil.
  

• Most deep-fried food should be drained on a thick layer of crumpled paper towels. As soon as the oil has been re-bottled (see below), transfer the food to a large open receptacle, such as a baking pan. Store uncovered at room temperature. If stored in paper towels for too long, the food stays hot and creates steam that can render the food soggy.
  

• Cool and strain the deep-frying oil. Store, refrigerated, for up to 2 months. I don’t recommend using all of the oil the next time you deep-fry, but do add about 1 tablespoon of old oil to every cup of new oil. This will improve both the flavor and the browning ability of the new oil. (Frying in “used” oil is one reason home-cooked French fries are different from those you get at a burger joint.)
  

Homemade Potato Chips

makes 4 to 6 servings

MAKE-AHEAD
: The chips can be prepared up to 6 hours ahead.

F
or extra-special occasions, take the time to fry up a batch of potato chips. (For a rainbow of chips, make the carrot, parsnip, and beet variations too.) In addition to the ones on pages 172–173, here are a couple more tips for chips: First, be sure to use starchy brown-skinned potatoes, the bigger and older the better. Second, do not try to cut the chips by hand—a mandoline or a similar slicer is imperative. And, finally, don’t salt the chips until just before serving, as the salt could wilt them.

1½ pounds large baking (russet) potatoes, peeled
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
Salt to taste

1. Using a mandoline or plastic vegetable slicer, cut the potatoes into paper-thin rounds, less than 1/16 inch thick. As they are cut, place in a bowl of cold water. Let stand while you heat the oil.

2. Place a wire cake rack on a jelly-roll pan. Line a roasting pan with crumpled paper towels. Pour enough oil into a deep Dutch oven to come about 3 inches up the sides. Heat
the oil over high heat until a deep-frying thermometer reads 350°F.

3. Drain the potatoes well. Line a work surface with paper towels and spread one layer of potatoes on it. Cover with paper towels and continue layering, separating each layer of potatoes with more paper towels. Pat the potatoes completely dry.

4. In batches, without crowding, deep-fry the potatoes, stirring often with a wire-mesh skimmer to separate the chips, until they are golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Using the skimmer, transfer the chips to the wire rack to drain briefly, then move them to the crumpled paper towels to remove excess oil. Separate each layer of fried chips with more paper towels.

5. As soon as all the chips have been fried and drained, serve or transfer to a large roasting pan to store. The potato chips will crisp as they cool. Store uncovered, and serve within 6 hours.

6. Just before serving, sprinkle with salt.

CARROT OR PARSNIP CHIPS
Using a mandoline or plastic vegetable slicer, cut carrots or parsnips lengthwise into strips less than 1/16 inch thick. Soak, drain, dry, and deep-fry as for potato chips.

BEET CHIPS Rub your hands lightly with vegetable oil to keep the juice from staining your skin. Peel the beets. Using the mandoline or plastic vegetable slicer, cut crosswise into rounds less than 1/16 inch thick. Soak, drain, dry, and deep-fry as for potato chips. (If deep-frying a variety of chips, fry the beets last, as their juice can color the oil.)

Baked Potato Chips

makes 4 to 6 servings

MAKE-AHEAD
: The chips can be prepared up to 6 hours ahead.

F
ood writer David Bonom taught me how to make baked potato chips, which are a fine alternative to deep-frying. The only drawback is that you can fit only two sheets of chips in the oven at one time, and that doesn’t make for very quick cooking. Get yourself into an assembly line frame of mind, and bake them while you are doing other kitchen chores—you’ll be surprised how quickly the job goes. For best results, use kitchen parchment paper and large heavy-gauge baking sheets measuring about 17 by 12 inches (called half-sheet pans, these are available at kitchenware stores).

Vegetable oil spray
1½ pounds large baking (russet) potatoes
Salt to taste

1. Position the racks in the center and top third of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper. Spray the paper with oil.

2. Peel the potatoes placing them in a bowl with cold water to cover. Remove 1 potato from the water and pat dry. Using a mandoline or plastic vegetable slicer, cut the
potato into paper-thin rounds, less than 1/16 inch thick, cutting only enough slices at a time to spread in single layers on the baking sheets. Arrange the slices on the sheets and spray slices with oil.

3. Bake until the chips are evenly golden brown, about 20 minutes (the chips on the center rack may take a few extra minutes). Slide the sheets of parchment onto a work surface and cool the chips on the parchment. Repeat with the remaining potatoes. Store uncovered, or use within 6 hours.

4. Just before serving, sprinkle with salt.

Fried Tortilla Chips

makes 4 to 6 servings

MAKE-AHEAD
: The chips can be prepared up to 8 hours ahead.

F
reshly fried tortilla chips turn a bowl of salsa into a fiesta. Look for high-quality corn tortillas at Latino markets—they will be fresher than the typical supermarket variety and contain fewer preservatives. The crispest chips are made from slightly stale tortillas, but fresh ones can be baked to dry them out before frying.

12 corn tortillas, cut into sixths
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
Salt to taste

1. Position the racks in the center and top third of the oven and preheat the oven to 300°F.

2. Spread the tortilla wedges on two baking sheets. Bake, switching the positions of the sheets from top to bottom halfway through baking, until the tortillas are slightly dried, about 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool completely. (You can skip this procedure if your tortillas are stale.)

3. Line a baking sheet with crumpled paper towels and set aside. Pour enough oil into a deep Dutch oven to come
about 3 inches up the sides. Heat over high heat until a deep-frying thermometer reads 365°F. In batches, without crowding, deep-fry the tortillas until golden brown, about 1 minute. Using a wire-mesh skimmer, transfer to paper towels to drain and cool, separating each layer of chips with more paper towels. As soon as all of the chips are fried and drained, transfer to a large roasting pan to store. (The chips can be prepared up to 8 hours ahead and stored uncovered at room temperature.)

4. Just before serving, sprinkle with salt.

BAKED TORTILLA CHIPS Spread the dried (or stale) tortilla wedges in single layers on two baking sheets and spray with vegetable oil. Turn and spray again. Bake in a preheated 375°F oven until the tortillas are crisp, 10 to 15 minutes. Halfway through baking, stir the tortillas and switch the positions of the racks from top to bottom.

Baked Potato Skins

makes 4 servings

MAKE-AHEAD
: The potato skins can be prepared up to 8 hours ahead, but they should be baked just before serving.

Y
ou’ll have leftover potato skins after baking the potatoes for Smoked Trout Brandade (page 148). It’s a shame to throw them out, and it’s easy to turn them into scoopers for the dip. Baked potato skins are so tasty that you may find yourself baking potatoes just for the skins.

3 medium (7-ounce) baking (russet) potatoes, baked as directed on page 148
Vegetable oil or olive oil spray
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Split the baked potatoes, scoop out the flesh, and use as desired. Cut the potato skins crosswise into thirds. (The potato skins can be prepared to this point up to 8 hours ahead, covered, and refrigerated.)

2. Position a rack in the top third of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Spray a baking sheet with vegetable oil.

3. Arrange the potato skins skin side down on the baking sheet and spray with oil.

4. Bake until the skins are crisp, about 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Serve warm.

Pita Toasts

makes 6 to 8 servings

MAKE-AHEAD
: The toasts can be prepared up to 8 hours ahead.

C
rispy pita toasts can be prepared plain or seasoned with an herb to complement the dip you are serving. One of my favorites is zahtar, an herb blend that goes perfectly with many of the Middle Eastern-inspired dips, such as baba ganoush or hummus bi tahini. Zahtar is a mixture of ground sumac (from a dried tart berry), thyme, and sesame seeds. (There is also a Moroccan wild herb called za’tar, but it is different.) You’ll find it at Mediterranean grocers—or you can just use a blend of sesame and oregano.

4 pita breads, split and each half cut into sixths
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, or as needed
2 teaspoons zahtar seasoning or 1 teaspoon each sesame seeds and dried oregano, optional

1. Position the racks in the center and top third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.

2. Spread the pita wedges cut sides up on the baking sheets and brush with the oil. Sprinkle with the zahtar, if using. Bake until crisp and golden, switching the position of the sheets from top to bottom halfway through baking, 10 to 15 minutes. Let cool completely. (The toasts can be prepared up to 8 hours ahead and stored uncovered at room temperature.)

Crostini

makes 6 to 8 servings

MAKE-AHEAD
: The crostini can be prepared up to 8 hours ahead.

C
runchy crostini (meaning “crusts” in Italian) are baguette slices anointed with olive oil and baked, and are the perfect foil for many dips and spreads. If you wish, use the flavored breads, such as olive or herb, that can be found at many bakeries. But look for a bakery that makes loaves with a firm crumb without a lot of air pockets.

1 baguette or baguette-shaped Italian bread, sliced
¼ inch thick (for larger slices, cut on the diagonal)
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1. Position the racks in the center and top third of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F.

2. Spread the bread on two baking sheets. Brush the bread with the oil. Bake, switching the position of the sheets from top to bottom halfway through baking, until the toasts are golden brown, about 10 minutes. Transfer to wire racks to cool. (The toasts can be prepared up to 8 hours ahead and stored in a paper bag. Do not store in a plastic bag, which would soften the toasts.)

GARLIC CROSTINI Heat 2 garlic cloves, crushed under a heavy knife and peeled, in the oil in a small saucepan over medium-low heat just until bubbles form around the garlic. Remove from the heat and let stand for 30 minutes. Use the garlic oil to brush the bread.

HERBED CROSTINI Brush the bread with the plain or garlic olive oil. Sprinkle with about 2 tablespoons dried basil, oregano, or rosemary, or a combination.

Bruschetta

makes 6 to 8 servings

MAKE-AHEAD
: The bruschetta can be prepared up to 2 hours ahead.

L
ook at just about any Italian restaurant menu in this country, and you’ll see some kind of bruschetta. Bruschetta should not be just any old toast, but a grilled slice of chewy, crusty bread (although it is sometimes broiled, even in Italy). The word comes from the Italian
bruciare,
which means to burn or toast. In Tuscany and Umbria, if you ask for bruschetta, they will look puzzled, for there they call it
fett’unta,
for
fetta unta,
or anointed bread. I used to serve bruschetta only in the summer, when I did most of my grilling. With the introduction of gas grills, it can be served year-round, as long as the dip itself reflects the season. There are many other toppings beyond tomato—try the White Bean and Roasted Garlic Dip on page 128.

Twelve (¼- to ½-inch-thick) slices cut from a large round loaf of crusty country-style bread
2 to 3 garlic cloves, peeled
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, or as needed