Brunette Ambition (20 page)

MAKEUP FOR PHOTOS

Whether you’re facing down a row of cameras on the red carpet or your friend’s iPhone at dinner, a flash can really wash out your face. If getting great pictures of an event is important (e.g., at a prom or a wedding), then you probably need more makeup than you think you do—if at all possible, speak with the photographer about their lighting, as different artists like different things … and their choices will transform your makeup dramatically. Regardless of the photo style, make sure that your T-zone isn’t oily, that your hair isn’t greasy, and that all blemishes are nicely covered. Low light, lamplight, and candle-light are all very flattering, while sunlight will make everything visible (including too much makeup). If you’re prepping your face for day, make sure that your foundation is incredibly well blended (and as minimal as possible).

Before I step out onto a red carpet or make my way to a big event, Mark and Melanie always take my picture—using a flash—so we can see how the look is translating. I urge you to do the same thing if you want to commemorate an event in photos. That way, you can tweak your look and have no regrets.

MELANIE’S BEAUTY SECRETS

1. “Don’t sleep with your makeup on.
It can be a drag to do your whole skin-cleansing ritual right before bed, so if that doesn’t work for you, look into wipes, or wash your face after you get home from work or school while you still have the energy.”

2. “Exfoliate a few times a week.
If your skin is very sensitive, you can always mix your exfoliator with a gentle cleanser to make it less intense (or choose an exfoliator for sensitive skin). Clarisonics are great for daily use, too.”

3. “Drink plenty of water.
Good skin starts from the inside.”

4.
“To make sure that you always look dewy,
use an illuminating liquid foundation,
which I like to apply with a wet beauty blender. Don’t use powder—if your skin is oily, then use a cream mattifying gel in lieu of powder.”

5. “Keep your eyebrows maintained:
They are like a hanger for your face, as all your features fall below them. They can really change your look and give you a very subtle face-lift. Don’t overpluck, just keep them defined and groomed.”

6.
“I give 99 percent of my clients
a little dab of peach blush
—either cream or powder—right at the top of their cheekbones before they head out the door. Smile, and tap it on very gently. It adds an instant glow and air of health.”

7.
“If you have thin lips and want them to look a little fuller, pout, and
apply a lighter color right in the middle of your bow.”

8.
“If you want to play with false eyelashes, figure out which effect you’re going for first—and
use single lashes for a more natural look.
If you have small eyes and want to open them, put the longest lashes in the middle; if you want to elongate your eyes, place the longest lashes at the ends.”

9. “Swap out your black mascara for brown mascara
when it’s time to do your lower lashes. It will help to open up your eyes.”

10.
“To brighten the eyes,
use a peachy, off-white pencil
in the water line at the bottom only—it works on all skin tones.”

11. “Highlighter can really brighten the eye area.
Place a dab in the inner corner of the eye and a little right under the point of the eyebrow. It can be a cream or a powder.”

PREPPING YOUR FACE

It can be tempting to rush straight to the fun stuff, but prepping your face properly for makeup is more important than everything else that comes after. You need a gorgeous blank canvas with which to work, and you want your skin to look as beautiful and glowing as possible. Here’s how Melanie gets faces ready for prime time.

1.
MOISTURIZER.
“Take the time to find the right moisturizer for your skin type—it should be rich enough to work but never goopy, greasy, or too thick.”

2.
PRIMER.
“If you have problematic skin or oily skin, you might want to use a primer before you apply foundation: This will smooth out your skin and allow the foundation to glide on easier.”

3.
FOUNDATION.
“Apply foundation from the center of your face outward, so that by the time you reach your neck, there’s very little product left and it will blend perfectly. You can use a brush, a sponge, or your fingers—go with what makes you feel most comfortable and helps you achieve a flawless, streak-free finish.”

4.
CONCEALER.
“For blemishes, take a tiny brush and pat concealer directly on the area needed. The concealer should be a perfect match to your skin tone. For the under-eye area, use either a flat brush or your ring finger (the warmth of your finger helps to blend the concealer). Immediately below (right above the cheekbone), I tap on highlighter and apply in a similar way. Using my ring finger, I pat and roll, moving to the outer corner and lifting up.”

5.
EYEBROW BRUSH.
“The perfect eyebrow shape is key, so keep them strong and groomed (don’t overpluck!). Using an eyebrow brush, gently stroke them up and over.”

6.
CONTOURING.
“Using a liquid foundation that’s a few shades darker than your normal foundation color, you’ll want to blend under your cheekbones, under the jawline, and at the top of the forehead. Work slowly and with small quantities of foundation. You can always add more to build up the color—you want to add definition that looks very natural. If you’re using a powder foundation, use a powder foundation to contour; the same holds if it’s liquid or cream. Keeping the finish consistent is key.”

Melanie’s Tips for Finding the Right Foundation

1.
“Department store lights have little in common with natural light. After you apply the shade, walk outside to see how it looks in normal life.”

2.
“Don’t test shades on your hand, which can often be significantly darker than your face. Instead, test shades on your jawline—the right color will blend into your neck perfectly.”

3.
“Most people’s skin tone is somewhere in between two shades of foundation, particularly as the year evolves. Buy two shades and mix them together, changing your formulation as you get more or less sun through the seasons.”

4.
“If you have clear skin and don’t need a lot of coverage, buy a tinted moisturizer; alternately, you can mix your foundation with a bit of moisturizer or illuminizer to dilute its opacity.”