Baking by Hand (19 page)

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Authors: Andy King

BOOK: Baking by Hand
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RED WINE VINAIGRETTE

Yield: About 2 cups/470 ml

1 cup/240 ml extra-virgin olive oil

⅔ cup/160 ml red wine vinegar

1 tsp/0.5 g dried oregano

1 tsp/2 g Dijon mustard

½ tsp/3 g fine sea salt

½ of a stirato (about 7 inches/18 cm; see
here
)

A couple of handfuls of mixed greens of your choice

Tomato, cored and sliced

Cucumber, peeled and sliced

Crumbled feta cheese

To make the vinaigrette, combine everything and whisk. Boom—easy vinaigrette. Feel free to substitute vinegars, fresh herbs or anything else you have convenient in your refrigerator. Make it yours!

To assemble the sandwich, slice the stirato lengthwise, and split the bread open almost as if you’re making an open-face sandwich. Sprinkle both halves lightly with vinaigrette, then layer the tomato slices, cucumber and feta cheese onto the bread. In a separate bowl, toss the greens with another light sprinkle of dressing, then pile them onto the bread. Pressing a long knife or spatula into the middle of the bread to secure the greens, fold the sandwich shut. This method makes it easier to fill and handle.

CRAN-TURKEY ON MULTIGRAIN

With only three ingredients, this is one of the simplest sandwiches we have, but each component is so strongly flavored that we found we didn’t need to dress it up much. The cranberry sauce will keep for a couple of weeks in your refrigerator and can also be used as a spread on toast or biscuits, an extra addition to corn bread or spooned warm over grilled pork tenderloin. If you can get your cranberries fresh in the fall (Massachusetts is full of cranberry bogs), all the better, but frozen ones work as well. Just cook the sauce a little longer.

YIELD: 1 sandwich

CRANBERRY SAUCE

1 lb/450 g fresh or frozen cranberries

10.5 oz/300 g granulated sugar

Juice and zest of 1 navel orange

2 slices Multigrain Bread (see
here
)

4 oz/100 g smoked turkey breast, sliced

Fresh chèvre

To make the cranberry sauce, combine all ingredients except the zest in a heavy-bottom saucepan. Mix everything to combine. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching, until the berries start to pop, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the zest. Cool, cover and refrigerate to let firm up.

To assemble the sandwich, layer the turkey on one half of the multigrain, and spoon cranberry sauce on top. Spread a thick layer of goat cheese on the other half and close it up. Simple!

MARINATO

This sandwich came about from a container of leftovers. We had made a particularly chunky pasta sauce the night before and taken the leftovers to work. After downing the pasta, there was a good deal of chunky sauce still left in the container … so onto some bread it went. Add some cheese and house-roasted red peppers, and we have our Marinato. By the way, the sauce is still good over pasta, so feel free to use the leftovers that way.

YIELD: 1 sandwich

MARINATO SAUCE

Yield: Enough for 6 sandwiches

2 lb/1 kg grape tomatoes (about

3 pints/1 kg)

3 garlic cloves, minced

½ small red onion, diced

4 oz/100 g black or green pitted olives (or a mix), coarsely chopped

2 tbsp/30 ml extra-virgin olive oil

2 tbsp/30 ml balsamic vinegar

½ tsp/1.5 g kosher salt

ROASTED RED PEPPERS

Yield: Enough for 6 sandwiches

3 large red bell peppers

2 garlic cloves, peeled

Extra-virgin olive oil

½ of a stirato (about 7 inches/ 18 cm; see
here
)

Fresh mozzarella cheese, sliced

3 or 4 fresh basil leaves

To make the Marinato Sauce, heat the oven to 350°F/180°C. Combine all ingredients in a shallow saucepan. Roast for 30 to 40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes pop and the surface begins to dry. Do not overcook—a chunky sauce is the goal here.

You can roast your red peppers two ways: For a firmer pepper, place directly on the flame of a gas stove, and, rotating regularly, singe each side until the surface of the entire pepper is black. Alternatively, for a softer pepper, place on a sheet pan and roast in a 425°F/220°C oven until the pepper is collapsed and blackened, about 30 to 40 minutes. Either way, place the hot peppers in a bowl and completely cover with plastic wrap. As the peppers cool, the skins will steam off. Hold the cooled peppers under running water to remove the skins, and pull out the seeds and stem. Slice the peppers into ½-inch/1-cm strips and store in a container, covered in olive oil. Crush the garlic cloves and store in the oil with the peppers.

To assemble the sandwich, split the stirato lengthwise and spoon about ⅔ cup/160 ml of the Marinato Sauce onto the bread. Layer the mozzarella and red peppers on top, and garnish with the basil leaves.

THE WARIEL

There’s no special house-made prep that goes into this sandwich, but it obtained such a following among the bakers that we now have to keep a jar of hot crushed red peppers (that pickled spread that you can get on your Italian sub at pizza joints) on hand just in case anyone gets a hankering. The sandwich is named after longtime pastry baker Mariel, whom we called, when she was in a rare bad mood, Wariel. This sandwich has a ton of spicy and sour elements, but it’s a zinger when you need a pick-me-up.

YIELD: 1 sandwich

½ of a baguette (about 7 inches/18 cm; see
here
, 84 or 89)

Dijon mustard

Mayonnaise

Crushed red pepper paste

3 oz/75 g smoked ham, thinly sliced

2 slices sharp cheddar cheese

Diced sour pickles

Sliced red onions

Split the baguette down the middle, and spread on the mustard, mayonnaise and crushed red pepper paste. Layer on the ham and cheese, then add the pickles and onions.

PICKLES

Andy has loved pickles since he was a kid, and was over-the-moon excited when he realized we could custom-make them for the bakery. It’s one of his favorite things that we prepare from scratch, and even though they’re not difficult, they represent one of those little things that make our humble sandwich station unique. Many local farm stands carry pickling cucumbers throughout the summer, and it’s best to use those rather than regular slicing cukes. They’re firmer and have fewer seeds, thus allowing them to stand up much better to an acidic brine. Or, better yet, pick a variety of vegetables to brine. Again, firmer ones work better, so it’s a great way to preserve carrots, green beans, cauliflower or other surprise bumper-crop items from your garden.

Keep in mind that these aren’t lacto-fermented pickles; they’re what we call a quick pickle. This is when brines based on vinegar, water, salt, sugar and herbs or spices are poured over your vegetable of choice and left to soak under refrigeration. They’ll be ready in as little as 24 hours, but will become stronger and more flavorful a few days after that. These are the types of pickles Andy is obsessed with. Go big or go home, as the old saying goes.

Each recipe of brine is made to cover about 2 pounds/1 kg of produce, depending on how they’re sliced. Thinly sliced “chips” will pack a jar more tightly than spears or chunks, for example. A couple of experiments will inform you as to your favorite option.

Always use hot water, and dissolve your salt and sugar before adding the vinegar. Add your spices to the heated brine, and pour over the vegetables. Cool and store, covered, in your refrigerator. Eat after 24 hours; enjoy for a few weeks after that. Or, for longer storage, pack into sterilized mason jars, follow standard canning procedure and keep them on your shelf.

Happy pickling!

DILL-MUSTARD PICKLES

YIELD: 3 or 4 pint/470-ml jars, depending on cut used

2 lbs/1 kg pickling cucumbers or firm vegetables of your choice

1 small bunch fresh dill

4 ½ cups/1 ml hot water

⅓ cup/16 g kosher salt

⅔ cup/130 g granulated sugar

5 ½ cups/1.3 ml white wine vinegar

¼ cup/40 g mustard seeds

2 tbsp/14 g ground mustard

Cut your vegetables and layer them with the dill in a 1-gallon/4-L container, or divide among three or four pint/470-ml jars if you’re planning on keeping them in your canning pantry. Dissolve the sugar and salt in the hot water, then add the vinegar and spices to the brine. If you’re going with bulk storage, pour the brine over the vegetables, cool and store, covered, in your refrigerator for at least 24 hours before eating. If you’re using the pint jars, pour the brine into each individual container and process in a boiling hot water bath for 10 minutes before cooling.

SPICY GARLIC SOUR PICKLES

YIELD: 3 or 4 pint/470-ml jars, depending on cut used

2 lbs/1 kg pickling cucumbers or firm vegetables of your choice

15 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped

4 large jalapeno chiles, sliced, seeded if desired

3 cups/710 ml hot water

⅓ cup/16 g kosher salt

⅓ cup/60 g granulated sugar

6 cups/1.5 L white wine vinegar

Cut your vegetables and layer them with the garlic and jalapenos in a 1-gallon/4-L container, or divide among three or four pint/470-ml jars if you’re planning on keeping them in your canning pantry. Dissolve the sugar and salt in the hot water, then add the vinegar to the brine. If you’re going with bulk storage, pour the brine over the vegetables, cool and store, covered, in your refrigerator for at least 24 hours before eating. If you’re using the pint jars, pour the brine into each individual container and process in a boiling hot water bath for 10 minutes before cooling.

BREAD AND BUTTER SPEARS

YIELD: 3 pint/470-ml jars

2 lbs/1 kg pickling cucumbers or firm vegetables of your choice

1 small red onion, sliced

8 cups/2 ml cider vinegar

1 cup/240 ml hot water

1 tbsp/8 g celery seeds

1 tsp/2 g whole cloves

3 cups/570 g granulated sugar

½ cup/24 g kosher salt

Cut your vegetables and layer them with the red onions in a 1-gallon/4-L container, or divide among three or four pint/470-ml jars if you’re planning on keeping them in your canning pantry. Heat the vinegar, water and spices on the stove, and dissolve the sugar and salt into the mixture to make your brine. If you’re going with bulk storage, pour the brine over the vegetables, cool and store, covered, in your refrigerator for at least 24 hours before eating. If you’re using the pint jars, pour the brine into each individual container and process in a boiling hot water bath for 10 minutes before cooling.

SMOKY, SWEET, SPICY PICKLES

YIELD: 3 or 4 pint/470-ml jars, depending on cut used

2 lbs/1 kg pickling cucumbers or firm vegetables of your choice

2 cups/470 ml hot water

1 ¼ cups/250 g brown sugar

½ cup/24 g kosher salt

3 ½ cups/830 ml cider vinegar

3 ½ cups/830 ml white wine vinegar

5 chipotle chiles in adobo sauce, sliced

2 tbsp/30 ml adobo sauce

2 tsp/5 g ground cumin

2 tsp/5 g paprika

Cut your vegetables and layer them in a 1-gallon/4-L container, or divide among three or four pint/470-ml jars if you’re planning on keeping them in your canning pantry. Dissolve the sugar and salt in the hot water, then add the vinegar, chipotle peppers, adobo sauce and spices to the brine. If you’re going with bulk storage, pour the brine over the vegetables, cool and store, covered, in your refrigerator for at least 24 hours before eating. If you’re using the pint jars, pour the brine into each individual container and process in a boiling hot water bath for 10 minutes before cooling.

SWEET LEMON-BASIL PICKLES

YIELD: 3 or 4 pint/470-ml jars, depending on cut used

2 lbs/1 kg pickling cucumbers or firm vegetables of your choice

Zest of 3 lemons

1 small bunch fresh basil

6 cups/1.5 L hot water

1 ½ cups/290 g granulated sugar

⅓ cup/16 g kosher salt

3 cups/710 ml white wine vinegar Juice of 3 lemons

Cut your vegetables and layer them with the lemon zest and basil in a 1-gallon/4-L container, or divide among three or four pint/470-ml jars if you’re planning on keeping them in your canning pantry. Dissolve the sugar and salt in the hot water, then add the vinegar and lemon juice to the brine. If you’re going with bulk storage, pour the brine over the vegetables, cool and store, covered, in your refrigerator for at least 24 hours before eating. If you’re using the pint jars, pour the brine into each individual container and process in a boiling hot water bath for 10 minutes before cooling.

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