Baking by Hand (16 page)
Authors: Andy King
Sprinkle the salt and yeast on top of the dough and grab a four-finger pinch of the dough and pull. It should stretch out like chunky taffy rather than just tear off. Incorporate the salt and yeast into the dough, continuously pushing the sides of the dough into the middle while turning the bowl. After a minute of this, the dough should be pulling away from the sides of the bowl and developing a bit of a sheen, and you shouldn’t feel any crunchy salt crystals. Cover the bowl, and put it in your warm place for 1 hour.
Turn your dough onto a lightly floured surface and give it your four-fold (see
here
). The fold will happen just once. You’re actually looking to just build a little strength into the dough here, not a whole lot. You are going to be rolling in a layer of cinnamon sugar for the final shape, and you don’t want to create so much strength that the layers separate when popped in the oven. So, after the fold, wait another hour, and if your kitchen’s at a nice, warm temperature, you’re now ready to divide.
Turn the dough out onto your floured work surface; it should be a little sloppy. Using your bench knife and scale, divide into two 1 pound 12 ounce/800-g pieces. Gently preshape the dough into loose 8-inch to 10-inch/20 to 25-cm cylinders (see
here
), and cover with cloth or plastic so they can relax for the final shaping. This will take about 1 hour. When the pieces are relaxed enough where you can pat them out and they won’t go springing back, they’re ready to shape.
Orient the piece of dough so that the skinnier ends are at the top and bottom of your work surface, and pat out with your hands until they’re about ¼-inch/5 mm thick. Spray the surface of the dough down with water, and, leaving a ½ inch/1 cm rim around the perimeter (you’ll need those clean edges to seal the perimeter shut when you’re done shaping), sprinkle a layer of cinnamon sugar on the dough so that you can’t see the dough underneath, but no more. This should be about ⅓ cup/50 g per loaf.
Starting at the end of the dough closest to you, roll the dough up—but don’t just fold it over itself. Stretch some tension into the surface of the dough, and when you get to the end, pinch the seam shut so that you have a nice, tight cylinder with a smooth surface. Place the shaped loaves into oiled 5-inch × 9-inch/12-cm × 23-cm loaf pans, and cover with a cloth.
While your dough is proofing, place your baking stone on the lowest rack in your oven, and your cast-iron pan on the highest rack. Preheat the oven to 400°F/200°C. Check in on your bread periodically; if the surface feels dried out, spray it with a bit of water to allow for maximum expansion. If it feels cold, make it warmer. This may take up to 2 hours, depending on the conditions of your kitchen. The loaf is ready to go in when the dome of the loaf has risen about 2 inches/5 cm above the lip of the pan.
Spray the surface of the loaves one last time with a few spritzes of water. Now, grab three ice cubes from the freezer. Being careful to not keep the oven door open too long and let the heat out, open the oven, slide your loaves onto the stone, throw the three ice cubes into the cast-iron pan and close the door. After 5 minutes, quickly open the door and spray the interior of the oven with water. Continue baking until the loaf is an even golden brown, about 25 minutes. Remove the loaves from the pans immediately and place on a cooling rack for at least 30 minutes before cutting. If the sides and bottom seem too light after removing the pans, feel free to place them back in the oven for 5 minutes to firm up the crust.
BORN AND BREAD LOCALLY
Unlike all of the European breads that are made at the bakery, Anadama is a local favorite—and we mean real local. As far as anyone knows, this particular bread—made with wheat, corn and molasses—originated just a 30-minute drive north of the bakery, in the small fishing community of Rockport, Massachusetts. There’s no more official Anadama bakery anymore (it closed in 1972), but the recipe is carried on by any true New England bakery worth its salt. Not being from the area, we didn’t initially offer it, but quickly caved to pressure. We’re glad we did, and are thrilled to be part of such a local tradition.
• Yield: Two 1 lb 12 oz/800 g 5-in × 9-in/12 × 23-cm pan loaves
• Desired Dough Temperature: 85°F/30°C
• Mixing Time: 40 minutes
• Bulk Fermentation: ~2 hours
• Proofing Time: ~2 hours
• Baking Time: ~25 minutes
• Cooling Time: ~3 hours
1 lb 8 oz/680 g white bread flour
6.5 oz/180 g corn flour
1 lb 3.25 oz/550 ml 90°F/32°C water
1.25 oz/35 g unsalted butter, softened
4.75 oz/130 g blackstrap molasses
2 tsp/14 g fine sea salt
1 ¼ tsp/5 g instant yeast
Combine the flours in your large mixing bowl. In another bowl, mix your water, butter and molasses, swishing everything around with your fingers to disperse. Make sure to keep your water warm to give your yeast a nice, warm atmosphere to grow. Dump your flours on top of the liquid ingredients, and mix it by hand for about 30 seconds, until it comes together in a shaggy mass. Don’t forget to scrape the bottom and sides of the bowl regularly; you want all of that flour hydrated and don’t want to see any dry spots. Set aside in a warm place, at least 80°F/25°C, for 30 minutes. If you’re having trouble finding your warm place, it’s time to use your trusty heat lamp.
Sprinkle the salt and yeast on top of the dough and grab a four-finger pinch of the dough and pull. It should stretch out like chunky taffy rather than just tear off. Incorporate the salt and yeast into the dough, continuously pushing the sides of the dough into the middle while turning the bowl. After a minute of this, the dough should be pulling away from the sides of the bowl and developing a bit of a sheen, and you shouldn’t feel any crunchy salt crystals. Cover the bowl, and put it in your warm place for 30 minutes.
Turn your dough onto a lightly floured surface and give it your four-fold (see
here
). It should make a tight little package and after every fold the dough’s volume should increase. It should consistently feel warm and active. Roll the dough over and place it, seam side down, back into the bowl. Repeat every 30 minutes (you’ll fold the dough three times in total) until the dough is strong but puffy, warm to the touch and holds a fingerprint when pressed into the surface. The whole process will take about 2 hours with a warm kitchen and warm dough.
Once your dough is ready to cut, turn it out onto your floured work surface. Using your bench knife and scale, divide into two 1 pound 12 ounce/800-g pieces. Gently shape the dough into rounds (see
here
), being careful not to compress the dough too much, and place seam side down on your work surface. Cover and rest for 20 minutes to build a bit more strength into the loaf before final shaping.
Next, lightly oil two 5-inch × 9-inch/12 × 23-cm bread pans and set them to the side. Take your rested rounds and gently, but firmly, shape them into stubby cylinders (see
here
), leaving them seam side down on the table. Place your shaped loaves seam side down in your loaf pans, cover with a damp cloth or plastic wrap and place in your trusty warm spot.
While your dough is proofing, place your baking stone on the lowest rack in your oven, and your cast-iron pan on the highest rack. Preheat the oven to 400°F/200°C. Check in on your bread periodically; if the surface feels dried out, spray it with a bit of water to allow for maximum expansion. If it feels cold, make it warmer. This may take up to 2 hours, depending on the conditions of your kitchen. The loaf is ready to go in when it feels very airy and holds a fingerprint when pressed into the surface.
When you’re ready to bake, score the face of the loaf with four or five diagonal slashes. This releases tension in two directions, so when the oven spring occurs, you get a nice, even expansion of the surface of the loaf. Now, grab three ice cubes from the freezer. Being careful to not keep the oven door open too long and let the heat out, open the oven, slide your loaves onto the stone, throw the three ice cubes into the cast-iron pan and close the door. After 5 minutes, quickly open the door and spray the interior of the oven with water. Continue baking until the loaf is evenly browned, about 30 minutes, and has a nice hollow when you tap it on the bottom. Immediately, but carefully, remove the loaves from the pans and place them on a cooling rack. If the sides and bottom of the loaf look light, feel free to pop them back in the oven for a few minutes. Let cool for at least 3 hours before cutting.
SEED BREAD FOR THE BIRDS
This hearty bread requires that you make not only a starter 12 hours in advance, but a soaker as well. This softens up the rye flakes (which should be available at your nearest natural foods store) and keeps them from absorbing too much of the water in the mix. Note: This is a stickier dough than many others in the book. If it still seems wet after adding the salt and yeast, that’s fine. The strength will come when you fold, and excess liquid will be absorbed.
• Yield: Three 1 lb 12 oz/800-g loaves
• Desired Dough Temperature: 85°F/30°C
• Mixing Time: 40 minutes
• Bulk Fermentation: ~2 hours
• Proofing Time: ~1 hour
• Baking Time: ~25 minutes
• Cooling Time: ~1 hour
Mix your poolish
10 oz/280 ml 75°F/20°C water
10 oz/280 g white bread flour
½ tsp/2 g instant yeast
Mix your soaker
8.75 oz/250 ml 75°F/20°C water
7 oz/200 g rye flakes
1 lb 10.5 oz/750 g white bread flour
7 oz/200 g hulled sunflower seeds, plus ¾ cup/120 g for garnish
18.5 oz/520 g poolish
10.5 oz/300 ml 90°F/32°C water
Soaker (all)
0.5 oz/15 g honey
3 ¼ tsp/23 g tsp fine sea salt
1 tsp/4 g instant yeast
Combine your flour and the 7 oz/200 g sunflower seeds in your large mixing bowl. In another bowl, combine your poolish, water, soaker and honey, and remember to keep that water warm to give your yeast a comfortable atmosphere to grow. Then, dump your flours on top of the liquid ingredients, and mix it by hand for about 30 seconds, until it comes together in a shaggy mass. Don’t forget to scrape the bottom and sides of the bowl regularly; you want all of that flour hydrated and don’t want to see any dry spots. Set aside in a warm place, at least 80°F/25°C, for 30 minutes. If you’re having trouble finding your warm place, it’s time to use your trusty heat lamp.
Sprinkle the salt and yeast on top of the dough and grab a four-finger pinch of the dough and pull. It should stretch out like chunky taffy rather than just tear off. Incorporate the salt into the dough, continuously pushing the sides of the dough into the middle while turning the bowl. After a minute of this, the dough should be pulling away from the sides of the bowl and developing a bit of a sheen, and you shouldn’t feel any crunchy salt crystals. Cover the bowl, and put it in your warm place for 30 minutes.
Turn your dough onto a lightly floured surface and give it your four-fold (see
here
). It should make a tight little package and after every fold the dough’s volume should increase. It should consistently feel warm and active. Roll the dough over and place it, seam side down, back into the bowl. Repeat every 30 minutes for the first 2 hours (you’ll fold the dough three times in total) until the dough is strong but puffy, warm to the touch and holds a fingerprint when pressed into the surface. The whole process will take about 2 hours with a warm kitchen and warm dough.
Once your dough is ready to cut, turn it out onto your floured work surface. Using your bench knife and scale, divide into three 1 pound 10 ounce/750-g pieces. Gently shape the dough into rounds (see
here
), being careful not to compress the dough too much, and place seam side down on your work surface. Cover and rest for 20 minutes to build a bit more strength into the loaf before final shaping. Set up your couche and proofing board.
Next, take your rested rounds and shape each loaf into tapered batards (see
here
). If your seams feel like they’re coming undone when you lift the loaf up, feel free to pinch the seams shut with your fingers. Spray the surface of each loaf, and roll them in the ¾ cup/120 g sunflower seeds. Place each loaf on the unfloured couche, seeds down, and pleat cozily.
While your dough is proofing (what bakers call the last rise of a shaped loaf), place your baking stone on the lowest rack in your oven, and your cast-iron pan on the highest rack. Preheat the oven to 425°F/220°C. Check in on your bread periodically; if the surface feels dried out, spray it with a bit of water to allow for maximum expansion. If it feels cold, make it warmer. This may take up to 3 hours, depending on the conditions of your kitchen. The loaf is ready to go in when it feels very airy and holds a fingerprint when pressed into the surface.
Flip the loaves over onto your peel. It might take a couple of batches to bake all your bread, depending on your oven size. Score the face of the loaf with your razor in your desired pattern. Now, grab three ice cubes from the freezer. Being careful to not keep the oven door open too long and let the heat out, open the oven, slide your loaf onto the stone, throw the three ice cubes into the cast-iron pan and close the door. After 5 minutes, quickly open the door and spray the interior of the oven with water. Continue baking until the loaf is evenly browned, about 25 minutes, and has a nice hollow thump when you tap it on the bottom. Let cool for at least 30 minutes before cutting.
