Amy Butler's Style Stitches: 12 Easy Ways to 26 Wonderful Bags (7 page)

e. Repeat step 6c to trim the corners, and press.

a. With the
Right
sides of the exterior panels together, match the side and bottom seams to form a triangle in the corner. Pin the seams in place.

b. Measure and mark from the point of the corner along the side seam using the following measurements for each bag size.

• X-small: 1¼″ (3.2 cm)

• Mini: 1½″ (3.8 cm)

• Small: 1¾″ (4.4 cm)

• Medium: 2″ (5.1 cm)

• Large: 2¼″ (5.7 cm)

• X-large: 2½″ (6.4 cm)

c. Draw a straight line across the corner at the mark. Stitch along the marked line and backstitch at each end.

d. Trim the corner to create a ½″ (1.3 cm) seam allowance.

e. Repeat steps 7a through 7d to make the gusset on the other corner of the exterior.

f. Repeat steps 7a through 7e to make the gussets on both corners of the lining.

a. Turn the bag
Right
side out through the opening in the bottom of the lining.

b. Fold each edge of the opening under ½″ (1.3 cm) toward the
Wrong
side, and press. Pin the edges together and edge stitch the opening closed. Push the lining down inside the exterior. Using a turning tool*, gently push out the corners.

c. Smooth the lining and exterior at the top open end of the zipper and pin them together. Topstitch across the side seam, matching the topstitching already in place. This will help hold the lining in place.

Figure 5

Your bags (or bag) are complete! Your quick-fix travel companions are ready to tote it all in style. Or, make them part of your home décor and store craft supplies and other this-and-thats in plain sight!

7″ (17.9 cm) wide × 4″ (10.2 cm) tall × ½″ (1.3 cm) deep

• ¼ yd (0.23 m) of one print for the exterior

• ¼ yd (0.23 m) of a coordinating solid for the flap

• ¼ yd (0.23 m) of a second coordinating print for the lining

• ⅝ yd (0.57 m) of 20″ (50.8 cm) wide fusible woven interfacing (I use Shape Flex SF-101 by Pellon)

• ¼ yd (0.23 m) of 44″ (112 cm) wide fusible fleece (I use fusible Thermolam Plus by Pellon)

• ⅛ yd (0.11 m) of 20″ (50.8 cm) wide Peltex #70 by Pellon or a similar extra-heavy stabilizer

• One ¾″ (1.9 cm) magnetic snap (I use Prym-Dritz brand)

• 1 spool coordinating all-purpose thread (I use Coats Dual Duty XP)

See Basic Tools Needed for Each Project
(page 14)
.

• Masking tape

• Marker

• Hand sewing needle

Tip: Using a piece of masking tape and a marker, write the name of each panel on the tape and place it on the individual fabric pieces to identify them.

a. Fold the exterior and lining fabrics in half lengthwise,
Wrong
sides together, matching the selvage edges*.

b. Using a ruler and fabric marker, measure and mark these dimensions directly onto the fabric. Then, cut along the marked lines.

• Cut 2 main panels: 8″ (20.3 cm) wide × 5¼″ (13.3 cm) long

c. Lay the fabric in a single layer with the
Right
side down. Fold each selvage edge in 5″ (12.7 cm) toward the
Wrong
side. This will give you enough folded edges to cut out the flaps.

• Cut 2 flaps on the fold*

• Cut 2 lining panels: 8″ (20.3 cm) wide × 5¼″ (13.3 cm) long

• Cut 2 inside pocket panels: 8″ (20.3 cm) wide × 7″ (17.9 cm) long

• Cut 1 pen holder piece: 2¾″ (7 cm) wide × 5″ (12.7 cm) long

d. Use the panels you have cut as full-size pattern pieces to cut out the interfacing pieces and fleece flaps.

• Cut 2 main panels

• Cut 2 flaps

• Cut 2 inside pocket panels

• Cut 1 flap

• Cut 2 inside pocket inserts: 7″ (17.9 cm) wide × 3″ (7.6 cm) long

• Cut 2 front/back pieces: 7″ (17.9 cm) wide × 4″ (10.2 cm) long

a. On a flat surface, center one of the Peltex front/back pieces onto the
Wrong
side of the first exterior main panel ½″ (1.3 cm) down from the top and ½″ (1.3 cm) in from each side edge. This will leave ¾″ (1.9 cm) exposed across the bottom edge.

b. Place the fusible side of the interfacing main panel onto the Peltex. Use a damp pressing cloth* and fuse it in place, sealing the edges around the Peltex (following the manufacturer’s instructions). Turn the panel over and press it again, making sure there are no puckers.

c. Repeat steps 3a and 3b to attach the other Peltex and interfacing main panel to the second exterior main panel.

d. On the fusible side of the fleece flap, measure and mark ½″ (1.3 cm) in around all of the edges. Draw a line connecting the marks. Cut along the marked lines. This will reduce bulk in the seams.

e. Place the fusible side of the corresponding interfacing onto the
Wrong
side of one flap and fuse it in place.

f. Center the fusible side of the fleece onto the
interfaced
side of the flap (there will be ½″ (1.3 cm) of the fabric showing around the outside edges) and fuse it in place. Turn the flap over and press it again, making sure there are no puckers. This piece will now be referred to as exterior flap.

g. Place the fusible side of the second interfacing onto the
Wrong
side of the other flap. Fuse it in place. Turn the flap over and press it again, making sure there are no puckers. This piece will now be referred to as flap lining.

h. Place the fusible side of the corresponding
interfacing
onto the
Wrong
side of the first inside pocket panel. Fuse it in place.

i. Center one of the fleece inside pocket inserts onto the
interfaced
side of the panel, ½″ (1.3 cm) from the top and side edges. This will leave 3½″ (8.9 cm) exposed across the bottom edge. Fuse the fleece insert in place. Turn the panel over and press it again, making sure there are no puckers.

j. Repeat steps 3h and 3i to attach the other interfacing and fleece pieces to the second inside pocket panel.

Please set the inside pocket panels aside.

a. Place the top edge of the exterior flap and back main panel
Right
sides together and pin them in place. Stitch a ½″ (1.3 cm) seam across the pinned edge. Backstitch* at each end. Press the seam allowance* toward the main panel.

Figure 1

b. Place the bottom edges of both main panels (the edge with ¾″ (1.9 cm) exposed past the Peltex)
Right
sides together and pin them in place. Stitch a ½″ (1.3 cm) seam across the pinned edge. Backstitch at each end. Press the seam allowance open.