Amy Butler's Style Stitches: 12 Easy Ways to 26 Wonderful Bags (18 page)

e. Place the closed zipper and lining panel
Right
sides together. Align the top of the zipper head even with the left 2″ (5.1 cm) mark and the long edge of the zipper tape just above the chalk line. Pin in place.

f. Using the zipper foot for your machine, stitch ⅛″ (0.3 cm) from the colls on the tape, starting and stopping at the side edges of the end pieces. Backstitch at each end.

Figure 4

g. Fold the zipper and both end pieces over at the stitching, so the
Right
side is facing up. Press along the folded edge. Edge stitch along the folded edge of the end pieces and the zipper tape. Backstitch at each end. (See
Figure 4
on
page 137
.)

h. Fold the panel
Right
sides together, across the 4⅝″ (11.7 cm) chalk line, and press along the folded edge. Then, fold the panel back toward the
interfaced
side across the 8⅛″ (20.6 cm) chalk line, and press.

I. Pin the folded edge of the 8⅛″ (20.6 cm) chalk line onto the
Right
side and ⅛″ (0.3 cm) from the colls on the other side of the zipper tape. Continue to pin the folded edge across each end piece.

j. Open the zipper. Then, edge stitch along the pinned edge and backstitch at each end. Close the zipper.
Note: Do not stitch through the back of the pocket.

a. Fold the lining panel in half
Right
sides together, matching the 10½″ (26.7 cm) (for small bag) or 12½″ (31.8 cm) (for large bag) edges. Place the center pocket in between the lining panel, matching the left side edges.
Note: The center pocket is not as wide or as long as the lining panel, which will form the sides and bottom of the Wristlet.

b. Place the top edge of the center pocket ⅝″ (1.6 cm) down from the top edge of the lining panel and pin down the left side edge. Stitch a ¼″ (0.6 cm) seam down the pinned edge. Backstitch at each end.

c. Next, make the gusset. Move the center pocket to one side out of your way. Match the side seam to the bottom center crease, forming a triangle in the corner. Measure 1″ (2.5 cm) in from the point along the seam and make a mark. Draw a straight line across the corner at the 1″ (2.5 cm) mark. Pin them together. (See
Figure 1
on
page 134
.)

d. Stitch along the marked line, creating a gusset. Backstitch at each end. Trim the corner to create ½″ (1.3 cm) seam allowance.

e. Pull the right side edge of the center pocket over and place it ⅝″ (1.6 cm) down from the top edge on the
Right
side of the lining panel. Pin in place. Stitch a ¼″ (0.6 cm) seam down the pinned edge. Backstitch at each end.

f. Repeat steps 10c and lOd to make the gusset on the other corner of the lining panel.

a. Fold the top edges of the exterior panel ½″ (1.3 cm) toward the
Wrong
side, and press. Then, fold the top edge of the lining panel ⅝″ (1.6 cm) toward the
Wrong
side, and press.

b. With the
Right
side of the exterior facing out and the
Wrong
side of the lining out, slip the lining
inside
the exterior, placing the zlppered lining pocket to the back of the bag (the side with the flap). Match the top folded edges and pin them together.

c.
Note: The exterior of the bag is facing out; stitch on the lining side, laying the center pocket flat and out of your way as you stitch up to it on each side of the bag. Be patient and go slowly, and you will get great results.
Starting on the front side of the center pocket on one side of the bag, edge stitch
Vs”
(0.3 cm) from the top edge across the side and around the front, stopping at the front of the other side of the pocket. Backstitch at each end.

d. Starting again at the back of the pocket, edge stitch ⅛″ (0.3 cm) from the top edge across the side and along the stitching that attaches the flap and stop at the back of the other side of the pocket. Backstitch at each end. Fold in the side edges and press the bag flat.
Note: If you have difficulty stitching up to the center pocket, stitch as close as you can and then hand stitch the remaining edges together.

Your Everything Wristlet is complete! Everyone will wonder, “Is it a bag or a wallet?”

18″ (45.7 cm) wide at the bottom × 15½″ (39.4 cm) tall × 3½″ (8.9 cm) deep

21½″ (54.6 cm) wide at the bottom × 17¼″ (43.8 cm) tall × 3½″ (8.9 cm) deep

• 1 yd (0.91 m) of one print for the exterior main panels

• 1 yd (0.91 m) of a coordinating solid for the exterior handles and ruffles

• 1⅝ yd (1.49 m) of a coordinating print for the lining

• 1⅛ yd (1.03 m) of one print for the exterior main panels

• 1 yd (0.91 m) of a coordinating solid for the exterior handles and ruffles

• 1⅝ yd (1.49 m) of a coordinating print for the lining

• 2⅞ yd (2.63 m) of 20″ (50.8 cm) wide fusible woven interfacing (I use Shape Flex SF-101 by Pellon)

• 1 yd (0.91 m) of 44″ (112 cm) wide fusible fleece (I use fusible Thermolam Plus by Pellon)

• ⅝ yd (0.57 m) of 20″ (50.8 cm) wide double-sided fusible Peltex by Pellon or a similar extra-heavy stabilizer

• One size ¾″ (1.9 cm) magnetic snap (I use Prym-Dritz brand)

• 1 spool coordinating all-purpose thread (I use Coats Dual Duty XP)

See Basic Tools Needed for Each Project
(page 14)
.

• Hand sewing needle

• Main/inside pocket panel

• Handle

• Peltex handle template

a. Fold the fabrics in half lengthwise,
Wrong
sides together, matching the selvage edges*.

• Cut 2 main panels on the fold*

• Cut 4 handles

b. Using a ruler and fabric marker, measure and mark the dimensions below directly onto the
Right
side of the fabric. Then, cut along the marked lines.

• Cut 2 ruffles for small bag: 8″ (20.3 cm) wide × 27″ (68.6 cm) long

OR

• Cut 2 ruffles for large bag: 8″ (20.3 cm) wide × 30″ (76.2 cm) long

• Cut 2 main panels on the fold

• Cut 2 inside pocket panels on the fold (fold the main/inside pocket panel pattern piece back at the top dashed line)

c. Measure and mark the dimensions below directly onto the
Right
side of the fabric. Then, cut along the marked lines.

• Cut 2 false bottom panels for small bag: 4½″ (11.4 cm) wide × 18¼″ (46.4 cm) long

OR

• Cut 2 false bottom panels for large bag: 4½″ (11.4 cm) wide × 21¾″ (55.2 cm) long

• Cut 2 cell phone pocket panels: 5″ (12.7 cm) wide × 5½″ (14 cm) long

• Cut 2 tab closures: 3½″ (8.9 cm) wide × 5″ (12.7 cm) long

d. Open up one of the lining main panels and inside pocket panels to use as full-size pattern pieces.

• Cut 2 main panels

• Cut 1 inside pocket panel

e. Use the pattern piece provided and

• Cut 4 handles

f. Measure and mark these dimensions onto a single layer of interfacing. Then, cut along the marked lines.

• Cut 1 cell phone pocket panel: 5″ (12.7 cm) wide × 5½″ (14 cm) long

• Cut 2 tab closures: 3½″ (8.9 cm) wide × 5″ (12.7 cm) long

• Cut 2 main panels on the fold

g. To cut the Peltex for the handles, trace around the template and cut along the marked lines.

• Cut 4 Peltex handles

h. Measure and mark these dimensions directly onto the Peltex, then cut along the marked lines.

• Cut 2 false bottom inserts for small bag: 3¼″ (8.3 cm) wide × 17¼″ (43.8 cm) long

OR

• Cut 2 false bottom inserts for large bag: 3¼″ (8.3 cm) wide × 20¾″ (52.7 cm) long

a. Place the fusible side of the interfacing main panel onto the
Wrong
side of the first exterior main panel. Using a damp pressing cloth,* fuse the interfacing in place. Turn the panel over and press it again, making sure there are no puckers.