All We Know: Three Lives (47 page)

“She…could have…water”
: West,
Recollections
, 90.

“perfectly repellent Bayswater…Square”
: MG to Flora Groult, interview, London, July 26, 1986.

“downright forthright manner”
: Ibid.

“her curly hair…back”
: Frances Spalding,
Vanessa Bell
(New Haven and New York: Tichnor and Fields, 1983), 243. “In 1930  Clive and Benita spent six weeks at Cannes, at Madge Garland’s villa in the rue d’Antibes, where they frequently entertained Raymond Mortimer Brian Guinness and John Banting who were staying near by.”

“a very forcible lady”
: Raymond Mortimer to Isabelle Anscombe, interview, London, March 21, 1979, IAP.

“looked charming…well”
: Cecil Beaton, unpublished diaries, Thursday, October 21, 1926, CBD.

“was received as…importance”
: Beaton,
Photobiography
, 40.

“the
Vogue
gang”
: Cecil Beaton, unpublished diaries, January 23, 1926, CBD.

“he concentrated…Garland”
: Hugo Vickers,
Cecil Beaton
, 67.

“one or two…Bloomsbury”
: Cecil Beaton, unpublished diaries, February 21, 1926, CBD.

“She absolutely knocked…star”
: Anne Scott-James to author, interview, London, December 9, 1997.

“almost like an agency”
: Chloe Tyner to author, telephone interview, May 19, 1997.

“Because I am one”
: Madge Garland, in Noble, ed.,
Recollections of Virginia Woolf
, 174.

“You’d never go…somebody”
:
A Salute to Marcel Boulestin and Jean-Emile Labourer: An Exhibition of Artists Associated with the Restaurant Boulestin
(London: Michael Parkin Fine Art, 1981), 26.

“a beautiful house for parties”
: MG to Hugo Vickers, interview, London, March 8, 1980.

“charming & very…out”
: Cecil Beaton, unpublished diaries, Sunday, November 7, 1926, CBD.

“impromptu wild parties”
: Patrick Balfour [Kinross],
Society Racket: A Critical Survey of Modern Social Life
(London: John Long, 1933), 64. In this long list of some of the parties he attended in the 1920s—“Parties for the Blackbirds; an unforgettable Russian party in Gerald Road, with a Negro band, where a whole house and studio had been specially redecorated for a single night; the swimming party in the St. George’s baths; David Tennant’s Mozart party, where the eighteenth century was recaptured for a night;…impromptu wild parties, in fancy undress, in the Royal Hospital Road”—he is echoing Evelyn Waugh’s catalogue in
Vile Bodies
: “Masked parties, Savage parties, Victorian parties, Greek parties, Wild West parties, Russian parties, Circus parties, parties where one had to dress as somebody else, almost naked parties in St John’s Wood, parties in flats and studios and houses and ships and hotels and nightclubs…—all that succession and repetition of massed humanity…. Those vile bodies.”

“it was like…family”
: MG to Flora Groult, interview, London, July 26, 1986.

“Several ultra smart…pearls”
: Cecil Beaton, unpublished diaries, Sunday, November 7, 1926, CBD. Wyndham was working with the American Curtis Moffat in his photography studio. During the war, after she moved to New York, she enlisted in the WACs and again worked as a photographer.

“the thinnest person…waist”
: Anne Scott James to author, interview, London, December 9, 1997.

“the people one…bacchanals”
: Vernon Duke,
Passport to Pari
s (Boston: Little, Brown, 1955), 163–64. Duke was an old friend of Ewart Garland’s.

“The ’twenties in…dancing”
: MG to Flora Groult, interview, London, July 26, 1986.

“the vein of poetry”
: MG to Isabelle Anscombe, interview, London, October 8, 1979, IAP.

“eventually swept every…done”
: Garland,
Fashion
, 50.

Yet it was
…
time
: As the philosopher and sociologist Georg Simmel observed at the turn of the twentieth century: “It is peculiarly characteristic of fashion that it renders possible a social obedience, which at the same time is a form of individual differentiation.” Georg Simmel, “Fashion,”
International Quarterly
10 (1904): 130–55, 141. See this essay also for more on the relationship between fashion and shame.

“look[ing] perfect in…pink”
: Cecil Beaton, unpublished diaries, Sunday, February 21, 1926, CBD.

“patterned jumper [sweater]…forth”
: MG to Isabelle Anscombe, interview, London, October 8, 1979, IAP.

“put the gramophone on and danced”
: MG to Flora Groult, interview, London, July 26, 1986.

“whole school of Paris
artistes-decorateurs”: MG to Isabelle Anscombe, interview, London, October 8, 1979, IAP.

“both Bohemian and…feminine”
: Madge Garland, “The World of Marie Laurencin,”
The Saturday Book
23, John Hadfield, ed. (London: Hutchinson, 1963), 46.

“costumes for ‘Les’…designs”
: Charlotte Gere,
Marie Laurencin
(London: Academy, 1977), 23.

“both modern and exquisite”
: Sarah Stacey to author, interview, London, December 7, 1997.

“in her espadrilles…bistro”
: Garland, “The World of Marie Laurencin,” 59.

“frock consciousness”
: Woolf,
Diary
, Monday, April 27 [1925], 3:12.

her frequent despair
: See Lisa Cohen, “‘Frock Consciousness’: Virginia Woolf, the Open Secret, and the Language of Fashion,”
Fashion Theory,
vol. 3, no. 2 (May 1999): 149–74.

“I have been…it”
: Woolf,
Diary
, April 27 [1925], 3: 12–13.

“My love of…discover”
: Woolf,
Diary
, Thursday, May 14 [1925], 3:21.

“knew that she…was”
: MG to Isabelle Anscombe, interview, London, October 8, 1979.

“So there is…outfit”
: MG to Flora Groult, interview, London, July 26, 1986.

“a very beautiful…head”
: Garland, in Noble,
Recollections
, 171.

“hilarious conversation about corsets”
: MG to Isabelle Anscombe, London, October 8, 1979, IAP.

Diary
, 2:319.

“the ethics of
…Vogue”: Virgina Woolf to Jacques Raverat, January 24, 1925,
The Letters of Virginia Woolf
, vol. 3, 1923–1928, 6 vols., Nigel Nicholson and Joanne Trautmann, eds. (New York: Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1977), 154.

“Why,” she wrote…“Toddery?”
: Virginia Woolf to Vanessa Bell, Saturday May 25 [1928], Woolf,
Letters
, 3:502.

“perhaps worse than…petticoats”
: Virginia Woolf to Logan Pearsall Smith, Wednesday, [January 28, 1928], Woolf,
Letters
, 3:158.

“And whats
[sic]…
Sup”
: Virginia Woolf to Vita Sackville-West, Tuesday, September 1, 1925, Woolf,
Letters
, 3:200.

“I want as…wit”
: Woolf,
Diary
, Sunday, April 19 [1925], 3:9.

“The New Dress”
: Virginia Woolf, “The New Dress,” in
The Complete Shorter Fiction of Virginia Wool
f (New York: Harcourt, Brace, 1989, 1985), 170–77. All quotations of this story are from this edition.

“Vogue
is going…public
”: Harry Yoxall, unpublished diaries, Thursday, June 28 [1923].

“naturally of a…out”
: Chase,
Always in
Vogue, 152.

“the publisher, the
…it”: Carolyn Seebohm,
The Man Who Was
Vogue:
The Life and Times of Condé Nast
(New York: Viking, 1982), 80–81.

“The world was…dressmakers”
: MG to Isabelle Anscombe, London, October 8, 1979, IAP.

“difficult to find…fraught”
: Madge Garland, “Condé Charm,” review of
The Man Who Was
Vogue,
Financial Times
, September 11, 1982, 10.

“Miss McHarg (Mrs…. required”
: Harry Yoxall, unpublished diaries, Monday, September 13, [1926].

“end on the…Nast”
: Harry Yoxall, unpublished diaries, Sunday, November 14, [1926].

“This affair has…rupture”
: Vita Sackville-West to Harold Nicholson, September 24, 1926, quoted in Seebohm,
The Man Who Was
Vogue, 128.

“It is said…action”
: Virginia Woolf to Vanessa Bell [end of September 1926], Woolf,
Letters
, 3:295.

“So poor Todd…order”
: Vita Sackville-West to Harold Nicholson, September  24, 1926, quoted in Seebohm,
The Man Who Was
Vogue, 127–28.

“immediately…representative”
: Seebohm,
The Man Who Was
Vogue, 130.

“The lady [Dody]…formula”
: Chase,
Always in
Vogue, 152–53.

“in the days…contract”
: Garland, “Condé Charm.”

“that filthy Editor…bit”
: Cecil Beaton, unpublished diaries, Sunday, January 10 [1926]; Wednesday, October 20 [1925], CBD.

“Miss Todd the…Garland”
: Cecil Beaton, unpublished diaries, Thursday, April 8 [1926], CBD.

“a brilliant evocation…youth”
: Quoted in Julie Kavanaugh,
Secret Muses: The Life of Frederick Ashton
(New York: Pantheon, 1996), 72.

“both looking very…dressed”
: Harry Yoxall, unpublished diaries, Sunday, November 14 [1926].

“to be
Vogue,
only quarterly”
: Virginia Woolf to Vanessa Bell, Tuesday, February 21, 1928, Woolf,
Letters
, 3:463.

“trying hard to…pictorial”
: Cecil Beaton, unpublished diaries, Sunday, October 31 [1926], CBD.

“a black toque…dress”
: Cecil Beaton to his sisters, January 14, 1927, quoted in Vickers,
Cecil Beaton
, 89.

“I wanted to…flower”
: Cecil Beaton, unpublished diaries, Thursday, October 21, 1926, CBD.

“Todd was a…normal”
: Cecil Beaton, unpublished diaries, Sunday, November 7, 1926, CBD.

“rows in front…hours”
: Chloe Tyner to author, telephone interview, May 19, 1997.

“in a state…tearful”
: Chloe Tyner to Shaunagh Ward-Jackson, April 2, 1991.

“like some primeval…hirsute”
: Woolf,
Diar
y, Saturday, February 18 [1928], 3: 175–76.

“The Todd ménage…ends”
: Virginia Woolf to Vanessa Bell, Saturday, May 25 [1928], Woolf,
Letters
, 3:501.

“Todd’s room; rather…Garland”
: Woolf,
Diary
, Thursday, May 31 [1928], 3:184.

“She had been…awful”
: MG to Hilary Spurling, conversation, London, March 29, 1989.

“I had never…remained”
: MG memoir drafts, MGP.

TO REMAKE MY CAREER

“Dody went downhill…charming”
: Chloe Tyner to author, telephone interview, May 19, 1997.

“it was much…London”
: MG memoir drafts, MGP.

“almost anywhere”
: MG to Shaunagh Ward-Jackson, conversation, London, n.d.

“miserable meals…eyes”
: MG memoir drafts, MGP.

“One night we…flat”
: MG to Shaunagh Ward-Jackson, conversation, London, n.d.

“sober habit…women”
: Iris Tree, in ed. Simon Fleet,
Sophie Fedorovitch: Tributes and Attributes; Aspects of Her Art and Personality by Some of Her Fellow Artists and Friends
(Bolton, printed for private circulation, 1955), 14.

“feeling for ethereal…stage”
: Maude Lloyd, in ibid., 44.

“my greatest artistic…adviser”
: Kavanaugh,
Secret Muses
, 73.

“drinking tea and…hours”
: MG to Shaunagh Ward-Jackson, conversation, London, n.d.

“the early beginnings”
: MG memoir drafts, MGP.

“way of life and dress”
: Ibid.

Illustrated Newspapers Group
: Their other papers included
The Illustrated London News
,
Tatler
, and
The Sphere
.

“I can and I will”
: MG to Shaunagh Ward-Jackson, conversation, London, n.d.

“Madge’s two old…bed”
: MG to Flora Groult, interview, London, July 26, 1986.

“what are called women’s interests”
: MG memoir drafts, MGP.

“knitting, and babies…saucepan”
: MG to Shaunagh Ward-Jackson, conversation, London, n.d.

“such a challenge”
: MG memoir drafts, MGP.

“I lived the fullest life”
: MG to Flora Groult, interview, London, July 26, 1986.

“always very elegant…soignée”
: Anne Scott-James to author, interview, London, December 9, 1997.

“always in a hat”
: David Sassoon to author, interview, London, September 22, 1997.

“I thought I…not!”
: “Madge” [by Natasha Ledwidge], n.d., MGP.

“Dark brown is…blue”
: “Madge Garland Writes a Forecast of Fashion,”
The Bystander
, January 6, 1932, 35.

“Pink and brown…shades”
: Madge Garland, “New Ways with Woollens,”
The Bystander
, May 4, 1932, 230.

“Sports clothes favour…divided”
: “Madge Garland Writes a Forecast of Fashion,” 35.

“For evening wraps…gowns”
: Madge Garland, “Madge Garland Brings Back News from Paris,”
The Bystander
, January 20, 1932, 133.