All the King's Cooks (25 page)

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Authors: Peter Brears

BOOK: All the King's Cooks
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3.

Knead the dough, cut off a quarter, and use the remainder to make either a 17.5cm (7in) pie case, or to line a loose-bottomed cake tin of the same size, carefully pinching the pastry up the full height of the sides.

4.

Now cut the chicken meat into large pieces, mix with the remaining ingredients and the butter cut in small pieces, and pack into the pie case.

5.

Roll out the remaining pastry to form the lid, moisten the edges, and seal in place. Now trim the edges and cut a small hole in the centre of the lid and surround it with a ring of pastry made from the trimmings.

6.

Bake at 200°C (400°F, gas mark 6) for 30 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 180°C (350°F, gas mark 4) for a further 1 hour 30 minutes.

TO MAKE A MORTIS
30

Half a chicken

15ml (1 tbs) sugar

50g (2oz) ground almonds

15ml (1 tbs) rosewater

150ml (¼ pt) milk

1.

Put the chicken into a saucepan, cover it with water, and simmer until tender, about 45 minutes. Now blend the almonds with the milk to form a smooth cream.

2.

Drain the chicken, pick off the flesh, chop it, then blend it with the almond cream and the sugar. Place it in a saucepan and cook over a gentle heat for 10–15 minutes, stirring continuously as it thickens.

3.

Cool the saucepan in a bowl of cold water, beat in the rosewater, then fork the resulting paté into a deep bowl or make a round shape on a plate. Serve it when entirely cold.

SHORT PASTRY FOR TARTS
31

175g (6oz) flour

pinch of saffron

100g (4oz) butter

1 egg yolk

1.

Grind the saffron to a powder, mix with the flour, then rub in the butter.

2.

Work in the egg yolk with a fork, knead lightly, roll out on a floured board, and use the pastry to line a 20 cm (8in) flan ring.

3.

Line the inside of the pastry with greaseproof paper and fill it with baking beans, then bake at 200°C (400°F, gas mark 6) for 10–15 minutes, until set. Then remove the beans and paper and return the pastry to the oven for 5 minutes to firm the base. Remove from the oven and leave to cool on a rack.

The cases may then be filled with various contents – try any of the following tarts:

A TART OF CHEESE
32

200g (7oz) Cheshire or similar

3 egg yolks, lightly

cheese

beaten

275ml (½ pt) full-cream milk

10ml (2 tsp) sugar

25g (1oz) butter

1.

Finely grate the cheese, and soak it in the milk for 3 hours. Then blend them together and rub through a sieve.

2.

Mix in the sugar, egg yolks and warmed but unmelted butter. Pour the mixture into the prepared tart case and bake at 180°C (350°F, gas mark 4) for 40 minutes until set. Serve cold.

A TART OF STRAWBERRIES
33

450g (1lb) strawberries

45ml (3 tbs) sugar

3 egg yolks, lightly beaten

25g (1oz) butter

50g (2oz) fresh white

breadcrumbs

1.

Rub the strawberries through a sieve, using the back of a wooden spoon.

2.

Warm the butter, without melting it, beat in the breadcrumbs and sugar, and then beat in the egg yolks and strawberry purée.

3.

Pour the mixture into the prepared tart case and bake at 180°C (350°F, gas mark 4) for 40 minutes until set. Serve cold.

APPLE FRITTERS
34

3 or 4 cooking apples

pinch of saffron

100 (4oz) plain flour

1.5ml (¼ tsp) salt

175ml (6fl oz) ale

oil for frying

sugar for sprinkling

1.

Mix the flour, saffron and salt in a bowl. Make a well in the centre and pour in the ale little by little, while beating, to form a smooth, thick coating batter, adding a little more ale or water if needed.

2.

Peel and core the apples, and cut them across into medium slices.

3.

Heat oil in a deep chip pan, or pour 1.3cm (½ in) oil into a frying pan, and heat until it will cook a little batter dropped into it. Then dip each apple slice in turn into the batter on both sides, shake off any surplus, and put it into the hot fat, turning it to cook on both sides until puffed up and pale brown. Then remove with a skimmer and place on a hot dish, repeating this with the other slices.

4.

Sprinkle with sugar just before serving.

Fish Day First Course Pottages

POTTAGE FOR A FISH DAY
35

2 cooking apples

50 g (2 oz) currants

50g (2 oz) rice flour

25g (1 oz) flaked almonds

900 ml (1½ pint) white

6 dates, finely copped

wine

Red food colouring

75g (3 oz) sugar or honey

Pinch of saffron

2 cooked pears, shredded

1

Peel, core and slice the apples, stew until tender in 300 ml (½ pint) water, then rub through a sieve into a large pan.

2

Add all except the spices and pears, stir until boiling, simmer for 5 minutes, stir in the spices, pour into a dish and sprinkle with the pears.

PORPOISE (USING TUNA)
36

675g (1½ lb) piece of fresh tuna

1 batch of Frumenty (see
here
)

1

Plunge the tuna into a pain of boiling water, reduce the heat and simmer for 15–20 minutes until tender.

2

Serve in a dish half-filled with hot water, accompanied by a dish of frumenty, onto which pieces of the ‘porpoise’ are to be carved.

STEWED HERRINGS
37

25g (1 oz) soft white breadcrumbs

25ml (½ tsp) sugar

25ml (½ tsp) chopped parsley and thyme

600 (1 pint) mild ale

Pinch ground black pepper

2 tsp mustard powder

10ml (2 tsp) currants

50g (2 oz) raisins

5ml (1 tsp) chopped onion

1

Open the herrings down the belly, remove the gut, gills, spine and bones.

2

Grind the milts and roe with the bread, herbs, pepper, currants,
onion and sugar to form a smooth paste, using this to stuff the herrings, holding it in place by skewering the bellies together again. Place in a shallow pan with the ale, mustard and raisins and simmer gently for 10 minutes before draining and serving.

TO DRESS SALT LING
38

pieces of dry salted ling

water

1.

Soak the ling overnight in cold water.

2.

Put it into a pan of fresh water, then bring it to the boil and continue cooking for 1½ hours.

3.

Let the water cool enough so that the fish can be handled, remove it from the pan, pick out the loose bones and scrape the skin clean without removing it.

4.

Put the fish into a fresh pan of boiling water and cook for a further 1½ hours.

To make a higher-quality dish, the cooked ling had the following sauce poured over it:

STOCKFISH SAUCE
39

575ml (1 pt) eel, pike or salmon stock, strained

15ml (1 tbs) fresh parsley, finely chopped

15ml (1 tbs) wine vinegar

1.5ml (1 tsp) ground ginger

Simmer these together for 10–15 minutes, then pour the stock over the fish just before serving.

TO CALVER SALMON
40

500g (1lb 2oz) salmon fillets or steaks

10ml (2tsp) salt

2–3 pieces root ginger

425ml (¾ pt) white wine vinegar

2 sprigs rosemary

275ml (½ pt) white wine

1 blade mace

1.

Simmer 150ml (¼ pt) each of the vinegar and wine with the salt, spices and rosemary in a covered pan for 30 minutes.

2.

Strain this liquid into a clean pan, and add the remaining vinegar and white wine. Bring it to the boil, put in the salmon, reduce the heat, and simmer gently for some 5 minutes, until just cooked. Each piece should be totally immersed as it cooks, so put them in in batches, as necessary.

3.

Leave the salmon to cool in the liquid overnight, and eat within the next few days.

TO BOIL FISH
41

A small bundle of rosemary

850ml (1½ pt) water

and thyme, bound together,

25g (loz) butter

and a few sprigs of parsley

15g (½ oz) fresh yeast

5ml (1 tsp) salt

or dried equivalent)

Simmer all the ingredients together for 10–15 minutes, then put in the fish, and cook until tender (plaice and whiting take about 10 minutes)

TO BROIL FISH
42

450g (1lb) fresh fish, such as sole,
plaice, mackerel or herring, or
steaks or fillets of larger fish

25g (1oz) butter

60ml (4 tbs) wine
vinegar

1.5ml (1¼ tsp) ground
black pepper

1.

Melt and beat the butter, vinegar and pepper together to form a hot sauce.

2.

Cook the fish over a barbecue or under a grill for 2 minutes on each side, turning them from time to time and removing them further from the heat if they are cooking too quickly. If using a barbecue, place the grid at a slight angle, so that the fish juices run down along the bars rather than dropping into the fire to send up plumes of fine ash. The cooking times will be about: 1.3cm (½ in) thickness, 7–8 minutes; 2.5cm (1in) thickness, 10 minutes; 4cm (1½ in) thickness, 15–18 minutes

TO FRY WHITINGS
43

700g (1lb 8oz) whiting or other

15ml (1 tbs) wine

white fish

vinegar

100g (4oz) butter or 100ml

1.5ml (¼ tsp) mace

(4fl oz) oil

1.5ml (¼ tsp) pepper

225g (8 oz) apples or onions,

pinch of ground clove

finely chopped

5ml (1 tsp) salt

275ml (½ pt) white wine

a little flour

1.

Fry the apples or onions in a little of the butter or oil in a saucepan until cooked but not browned. Stir in the wine, vinegar, salt, pepper and spices, cook for a few minutes more, and keep hot ready for use.

2.

Skin the filleted fish, dust with flour, fry in the remaining butter or oil for 5–10 minutes. Serve with the sauce.

HADDOCK OR CODLING
44

1 small haddock or codling

15ml (1 tbs)

(about 1.3 kg (3 lb)

salt

1

Open the fish, remove the head, gills and innards. Place in a pan with the salt, cover with water and poach for about 20 minutes until tender.

2

Drain and serve with one of the following sauces:

GREENSAUCE
45

120ml (8 tbs) finely chopped fresh parsley

100g (4oz) fresh white bread crumbs

90ml (6 tbs) finely chopped fresh

150ml (¼ pt) white

mint

wine vinegar

1 clove fresh garlic, peeled and crushed

1.5ml (¼ tsp salt)

pinch ground black pepper

Mix all the ingredients and liquidise to form a smooth paste, adding a little more vinegar if too thick.

SAUCE FOR FISH
46

100g (4 oz) walnut kernels

50g (2 oz) white breadcrumbs

3 cloves garlic

pinch of black pepper

1 tsp salt

stock from the cooked fish

1 Grind all together with sufficient of the stock to form a smooth paste and then adding a little more stock to give a stiff pouring consistency.

TROUT BOILED
47

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