To Walk Far, Carry Less : Camino de Santiago (4 page)

The most comfortable underpants are breathable, lightweight, and made of a fabric that wicks away moisture.

Bras

I once saw Barbra Streisand being interviewed by Ellen DeGeneres on television. Ms. Streisand told Ellen that she was not wearing a bra. To prove it, she encouraged Ellen to slide her hand across her back. Ellen blushed and slid. Apparently, it was true: under Barbra Streisand’s black top, there was no bra.

Every woman knows the feeling of liberty that comes with releasing “the girls” at the end of the day. So why not free the girls on the Camino? I do. I don’t run the Camino, I walk it, so there’s no bouncing to worry about. And the less restrictive my clothing—including undergarments—the more comfortable I feel. I wear a black T-shirt or turtleneck for my inner layer. When it’s warm, I skip the inner layer and wear a shirt with two chest pockets: Voilà! No visible nipples.

If you’re uncomfortable going without a bra, consider wearing a sports bra. Some styles of sports bras are less constricting than traditional brassieres, and with a pullover and/or T-back style you won’t have to worry about falling-down straps. The fabric often has wicking properties, too.

Let’s get started on how the layering system works for your Camino clothing.

the clothing closest to your skin, not including undergarments—worn for extra warmth or for sleeping

Personal preference determines whether the top half of your inner layer is a long-underwear top or a regular shirt that is long-sleeve, short-sleeve, crew-neck, or a turtleneck. If it’s cold enough, a long-underwear bottom would also be part of your inner layer.

Fall or spring can bring snowflakes and wintery winds to the Camino. An inner layer provides insulation against these cold conditions. At night, the inner layer can also double as pajamas; you might sleep in a T-shirt and long underwear, for example.

Make sure your inner-layer garments wick moisture away from your body. Again, one can get hot while backpacking even when it’s cold. If perspiration clings to your body, you’ll feel cold and wet.

T-shirts and Turtlenecks

Generally, I recommend two T-shirts: one long-sleeve and one short-sleeve. But for pilgrimage walks in early spring or late autumn, when there are likely to be hints of winter weather, I’d recommend taking a T-shirt and a long-sleeve turtleneck.

Like many pilgrims, I use one T-shirt for sleeping and reserve the other for walking. When it’s really cold, I use both for extra warmth. A long-sleeve T-shirt in a larger-than-usual size can make the layering more comfortable.

Avoid wearing cotton T-shirts on the Camino: the fabric is too heavy and takes too long to dry, and it won’t wick away your perspiration. I prefer relatively inexpensive and easy-to-wash polyester T-shirts. Other fabrics also have wicking qualities, and T-shirts are even available in natural fibers such as silk or merino wool (see Fabrics for Outdoor Clothing and Gear in
Chapter 14: Shopping Advice
).

Long-Underwear Bottoms

I met a French woman on the Camino who wore pantyhose under her hiking pants to keep warm. It’s a good idea: you can’t find a lighter-weight option than that. For comfort and versatility, however, I take a pair of lightweight long underwear (sometimes called thermal underwear). They come in handy in various situations:

• They keep you warm under your hiking pants and/or rain pants in frigid temperatures.
  
• They make excellent pajama bottoms on cold nights.
  
• They can be worn while washing your hiking pants if you don’t have an extra pair of pants, or want to wash two pairs of pants, or don’t want to wear rain pants while laundering.
  
• They’re a comfortable choice when you want to stretch out to rest on a refuge bunk bed or hang out in the common area.
  

Another layering option for ultra-light backpackers, although less comfortable, is to wear two pairs of pants (the second pair being your alternate pair of pants) when it’s very cold. Make sure one pair is large enough to fit over the other pair.

the clothing worn every day on the Camino

Many pilgrims wear a pair of pants and a long-sleeve shirt in mild weather.

Some pilgrims prefer a short-sleeve shirt or a T-shirt, but long sleeves provide better sun protection, as well as just enough warmth when it’s not cold enough to wear a fleece or rain jacket.

Wear loose-fitting clothing for good ventilation and comfort. Get the best quality your budget allows: daily use and frequent washings will take a toll on your mid-layer Camino clothes.

Long-Sleeve Shirt

I prefer a classic button-down-style shirt—and I’ve noticed that so do many other pilgrims on the Camino. The shirt has the following features:

• A tail.
  When untucked, the tail hides a money belt worn outside the pants, against the back, which is more comfortable than wearing it hidden inside the pants, either in front or in back.
  
• Long sleeves.
  The sleeves provide protection from the sun and some warmth on mild days when adding other layers would be too much. Remember, sleeves can always be rolled up when it’s warm.
  
• Two chest pockets.
  As a woman, I like these pockets because they cover the chest so I feel comfortable not wearing a bra. The pockets are also useful to carry map and guidebook pages needed for the day’s walk. And a pair of eyeglasses. And a small memo pad and pen. And a mobile phone.
  

I’m not the only bulging-pocketed pilgrim: an American I met on the Camino called his shirt’s chest pockets “the office.”

Look for quick-drying fabric and a design that includes mesh vents under the arms. Some shirts have vents in the back, but those aren’t necessarily that helpful while you’re carrying a backpack.

Hiking Pants

It’s worth investing in hiking pants that are made from a high-tech fabric that’s easy to wash and quick drying. That’s because you’ll wear them every day, perhaps for weeks. Remember that natural fabrics like cotton take too long to dry and weigh too much. And for comfort, baggy is best.

I prefer hiking pants with cargo pockets on the sides that can hold the things I want access to while walking during the day: sunglasses, a bandana, tissues, a pocket-size camera, lip balm, chewing gum, a tube of sunscreen, and a wallet and/or coin purse with cash for the day’s expenses.

Many pilgrims wear cargo-style convertible hiking pants, which can be converted into shorts or capris with a quick zip around the pant leg.

Convertible pants for women (L) and men (R): zip off the leg bottoms to make shorts (pilgrim couple on the Vézelay route)

Most pilgrims take two pairs of pants. One is for daily use and the second pair can be worn

• as “evening dress” for dining out and/or sightseeing;
  
• after showering at the end of the day’s walk;
  
• as “plan B” pants on those days when mud covers the lower legs of your main pants and there isn’t time to wash them (convertible pants are handy in this situation—just unzip and wash the bottoms); and
  
• for variety, when you get sick of wearing the same pants every day for weeks.
  

Note that the weight of hiking pants varies, depending on features and fabrics. Weigh the choices and choose the lightest—especially for that extra pair, which you’ll usually be carrying in your backpack.

Packing Tips

Taking Only One Pair of Hiking Pants

A case could be made that the second pair of pants is not really essential, and fits into the nice-to-have category.

Some minimalist backpackers use their rain pants or long underwear as a second pair of pants, getting multiple uses out of what’s already in their backpack.

I’ve tried that, but found long underwear or rain pants uncomfortable for evening wear—especially in hot weather. Another issue with rain pants is that it’s possible to wear off the waterproof coating on the fabric from so much use.

I compromise by taking capris as my second pair of pants. Capris usually weigh less than the typical hiking pant because they’re shorter in length with minimal features. Women may be more familiar with the capris style than men, but capris can be found for men too.

for added warmth, both day and night

The insulation layer can be worn while backpacking when the physical activity—and your rain gear, if it’s raining—isn’t enough to keep you warm. It can also be used in the evening while resting in your accommodations or going out to eat and to see the local sights.

Wool sweaters or jumpers are not recommended: they’re bulky and weigh too much when carried in the backpack. Instead, consider choosing one of the following insulation garments typically worn by pilgrims on the Camino.

Fleece

Most pilgrims wear a fleece pullover or a zippered fleece jacket. Lightweight (lighter than wool) and fast drying, fleece is a warm insulation layer.

The choices are numerous: my outdoor-gear co-op offers more than 500 fleece jackets or pullovers on their website. Choose wisely, however: many of these are irresistibly cuddly but too bulky and heavy for a Camino backpack. A 100-weight fleece is usually sufficient for most people to use while hiking.

Choose a lightweight fleece fabric, with the fewest features you can find. A fleece pullover will likely weigh less than a fleece jacket because it has just a short zipper or none at all. The pullover style may also come without pockets. Again, less material always means less weight. Some fleece jackets use a laminate to provide more insulation than the heavier fleeces provide. But a caution: that insulation might diminish breathability.

Down Vest

I prefer to use a down vest as my insulation layer on the Camino. A vest covering my torso feels nearly as warm as a fleece or down-filled jacket, but since it’s sleeveless it’s not as bulky. If my arms feel cold, I add layers: a long-sleeve T-shirt under a long-sleeve hiking shirt, combined with a rain jacket over the vest, has always provided enough warmth for me on the Camino.

Backpackers like down fill because it provides the greatest warmth for the lightest weight. It’s also highly compressible. My vest weighs 198 grams (7 ounces) and fits in a stuff sack slightly larger than my two fists put together.

The drawback of down fill is that it loses its insulating properties when it gets wet. Thus, I make sure to cover my down vest with a waterproof jacket or a poncho when it’s raining. I also try to avoid overheating while wearing the down vest under the jacket, either by taking frequent breaks or by removing the vest as soon as I feel hot. That’s because excessive perspiration can also get the down vest wet.

Find a down vest without pockets, or only two hand pockets without zippers, to keep its weight down.

If down fill is too expensive for your budget, consider a vest filled with synthetic fiber. Some synthetic fills have nearly the same warmth-to-weight ratio as down fill.

Pullover Puff Jacket

If you think you’d miss sleeves when using a vest, another lightweight insulation-layer option is a pullover jacket with down or synthetic fill, often called a “puff” jacket. I saw a pullover puff jacket online that weighed 255 grams (9 ounces). It stuffed into one of its own pockets.

Hints of Winter

Wintry weather can appear early in the fall, or persist until late in the spring. If you’re walking during these shoulder months, plan to bring a few extra things for cold weather—or plan for ways to stay warm using what’s already in your backpack.

You can always mail winter gear home, or give it away, when warmer temperatures appear on your journey. Conversely, you can buy what you need along the Camino if winter arrives early.

Walking in Winter

I strongly recommend not walking the Camino in the winter months, particularly if you’re a novice backpacker.

It’s tempting to time your trip to avoid the pilgrim crowds—especially on the most popular route, the Camino Francés, where refuge beds are occasionally in short supply from late spring through early fall. However, many pilgrims’ accommodations close in the winter, as do some restaurants and bar-cafés. Also, the days are shorter, and it’s difficult to see trail markers or navigate rough trails in the dark. Some Camino walking stages—the distances between accommodations—would be impossible to accomplish during daylight hours in the winter months.

Even a devout loner could find a winter’s walk too lonely. There’s a safety factor, too: few, if any, pilgrims will be walking behind you in case you need help. Winter’s weather can be tough, even dangerous.

Creative Warmth

When surprised by cold weather, use what’s already in your backpack:

• Wear long underwear under your hiking pants for warmth. When it’s extremely cold, wear long underwear, hiking pants,
  and
  rain pants.
  
• Wear a short-sleeve T-shirt over a long-sleeve T-shirt (or turtleneck). You could also do the opposite—wear the long-sleeve T-shirt over the short-sleeve. But even though you’ll get warmer after hiking some distance, you might still appreciate the long-sleeve T-shirt covering your arms when it’s cold. Wearing the short-sleeve shirt over the long-sleeve shirt keeps you from having to take off both shirts in the cold air (to remove the short-sleeve shirt underneath and wear just the long-sleeve). When it’s extremely cold, wear both T-shirts under your hiking shirt along with your insulation and outer layers.
  
• Use a jacket or poncho hood over a hat to keep your head warm.
  
• Let overlong sleeves cover cold hands.
  
• Use a spare pair of socks, such as your sleeping socks, as mittens; cover them with plastic bags or waterproof stuff sacks if it’s raining.
  
• Use safety pins to pin together a pair of socks for an emergency ear band. This one is guaranteed to make others smile.