To Walk Far, Carry Less : Camino de Santiago (13 page)

Pilgrims sometimes grab sheep’s wool stuck on fences, then put a clump of that wool in their footwear to help prevent blisters. (You’ll see countless sheep on all the Camino routes; this fluffy fellow was on the Vézelay route in France.)

* * *

In addition to toiletries and first aid items, there are a lot of other small, useful things you might want to consider adding to your pack.

Although some pilgrims might want to use all of the following small items, they’re only suggestions for what might be useful on a Camino pilgrimage. As always: take only what you’ll actually use.

Earplugs!

I kept the exclamation mark from my notes, as in “Don’t forget to mention earplugs!” They’re an essential item, especially for light sleepers. In the shared sleeping quarters of pilgrims’ accommodations, you’ll hear the pilgrim night music—snoring. To be able to get some rest in communal accommodations, most pilgrims use earplugs.

You can easily find earplugs at pharmacies in France and Spain. If you don’t speak French or Spanish, you can just plug your ears with your fingers and make a snoring sound. You’ll get a laugh and the earplugs.

Money Belt

For over a thousand years, scoundrels have ripped off pilgrims on the Camino. Today, thieves are rare but not unheard-of.

Bulging fanny packs were once a popular way for travelers to store their valuables. Thieves loved them because they were so obvious.

It’s now recognized that discretion is better, and it’s a good idea to keep valuables out of sight. Most savvy travelers use a money belt, which is a slim pouch with at least one zippered compartment. Worn around the waist, it’s held in place by an elastic strap with a secure clip. The money belt is a secure place to carry your passport, credit cards, extra cash, plane tickets or e-ticket printouts, and other important information such as addresses and phone numbers. It’s much roomier than the other kind of “money belt”—a leather or cloth belt that looks just like a regular belt and has a zippered interior pocket that only holds a small amount of cash.

Some wear the money belt inside their pants, while others wear it on the outside. For me, it depends: in touristy areas, bus stations, and train stations—where theft is more likely—I’ll wear the money belt
inside
my pants. Most of the time, however, the money belt is more comfortably worn
outside
the pants, especially while backpacking on the Camino. That’s why I like wearing a long-tailed shirt: it covers the money belt’s placement on my rear, keeping it out of sight.

Gear Guide

Money-Belt Alternatives

For those who don’t like the idea of wearing a money belt around the waist, there are other options. One of these is called a “hidden pocket,” or sometimes a “secret wallet.” This has a slim pouch, like the money belt I’ve just described for travelers, and a cord that attaches the pouch to a regular hold-up-the-pants belt so the pouch can then be tucked inside the pants (usually by the hip). Another alternative is a “neck wallet” or “neck pouch.” These are also similar to the traveler’s money belt, but an attached cord allows you to hang it around your neck so it lies against your chest. Less used, another option is the undercover leg pouch (sometimes called an undercover leg stash). It also has features similar to the traveler’s money belt, but straps secure the pouch to your leg.

Coin Purse or Wallet

As a partner for the money belt, consider using a coin purse or wallet for the small amounts of money you’ll use every day; keep it in a pocket for quick and easy access. Then you won’t have to expose your money belt for every minor transaction. You can also quickly put cash there after visiting an ATM and thus avoid exposing your money belt in public.

On the Camino

Security Tips While Staying at a Pilgrims’ Refuge

Precaution = Security

• Sleep with your money belt at the bottom of your sleeping bag, by your feet.
  
• Keep your money belt near you in a waterproof bag while showering in communal facilities.
  
• Don’t leave valuables at the refuge when eating out or visiting local sights.
  
• If your smartphone, tablet computer, or other digital device holds important information like bank account numbers, passwords, or addresses that you wouldn’t want others to see, lock the device with a pass code after each use.
  

Mini-Backpack

Consider bringing an ultralight mini-backpack to carry things while sightseeing or doing errands in late afternoon or evening. I use mine to carry a jacket, camera, cell phone, water bottle, journal, and pen. I use it to carry food bought at groceries and bakeries. I also use it to carry food and water on flights to and from Europe.

Mini-backpacks stuff into their own outside pocket. Post-stuffing, the pack fits into the palm of the hand. Made of a thin nylon fabric, it has no features: just the body of the pack, two thin shoulder straps, and the tiny outside pocket it stuffs into.

To save a couple of grams, I cut off the thick plastic zipper grip and an unneeded metal hook.

Small Calculator

A calculator can be used for calculating kilometers (all distances are measured in kilometers on the Camino) and other planning. It can also be helpful for currency conversions. Find a credit card–size calculator that will easily tuck into a money belt. You won’t need to carry a separate calculator if you take a mobile phone with a calculator function.

Address Book

The lightest option: write the addresses you need on one piece of paper, using both sides if needed. Then keep it safe in your money belt—it’s difficult to replace when you’re a long way from home.

Add other important information to the list, such as phone numbers to report lost credit cards, airline contact information, flight confirmation numbers, and email addresses.

Or, use your mobile phone to store addresses and other information. If your guidebook indicates you’ll have regular internet access, you can also send an email to yourself with important information, and then access that via your online email provider. This method is also a good back-up plan regardless of how you carry addresses and other important information.

Calendar

On the Camino, time is measured by the sun’s rise and fall. But sometimes it’s helpful to glance at a calendar so you don’t forget to go home. A calendar also helps when you need to adjust Camino walking plans.

Many mobile phones have calendars. If that’s not an option, you can download a calendar from the web, or print the month(s) you need from your computer’s calendar application.

I use a more old-fashioned method. First, I cut out the tiny preview months from a traditional wall calendar. I then tape those to the inside cover of a memo pad, which serves as my journal.

Journal and Pen

A lightweight journal recommendation: the just-mentioned memo pad, which fits into a shirt pocket. A fine-point pen helps you write small.

A journal stores the day’s thoughts, feelings, impressions, and stories. A memo pad in the pocket can also be pulled out quickly to note newly discovered French or Spanish words, addresses of new pilgrim friends, or a local’s map showing a shortcut back to the Camino route.

Those notes, words, addresses, and maps add a charm and immediacy to the journal, making it a nice memento of your journey.

Flashlight

I’ve carried a small flashlight on the Camino a few times, but never once used it. Usually, there is enough light in accommodations to find the toilet at night, which is the most common use for a flashlight.

While I consider the flashlight an optional item, others might feel more comfortable taking one. To find something in your backpack after the lights in the refuge are turned off, for example, a flashlight is helpful. If you decide to take a flashlight, find a tiny one, like the kind attached to a keychain. I found one that weighs only 13 grams (0.5 ounce). Or, if you take a digital music player or a mobile phone, just use that: the screen will emit enough light to see a few steps in front of you in the dark or help you search through your backpack after lights out. Or look for a flashlight app for your mobile phone. Some of these have the same projection power as the tiny flashlights.

Language Dictionary

Use a
pocket-size
French or Spanish dictionary or phrase book. Or use a translation application that can be uploaded to your mobile phone.

If you’re tempted to take a separate digital translation device, consider the weight. If translating is its only function, is it worth the weight? Don’t forget that it will require a charging device or batteries too.

However, as mentioned in
Chapter 8: Technology
, if you feel that using a translation device will give you more courage to communicate in a foreign language, then take one! Talking with the locals greatly enhances the Camino journey.

Camino Lingo

When You Don’t Speak the Local Language

A small language dictionary or phrase book works well enough—and doesn’t need to be recharged, either. You’ll find that a lot can be communicated with just a word or two:

• Banque?
  (French for bank)
  
• Farmacia?
  (Spanish for pharmacy)
  
• Hotel?
  (the same in English, Spanish, and French—although the French word is written as
  hôtel,
  it’s similarly pronounced)
  

Tip:
add an upward inflection at the end of any of these words to indicate a question, and your message will be clear.

As you can see by these examples, many French and Spanish words are similar to their English counterparts—and that makes them easy to remember once you’ve encountered them a time or two.

Plus, communication is much more than words. You can draw maps or simple pictures, point fingers, and use facial expressions.

Most important: keep a sense of humor. Everyone feels like a three-year-old child when trying a new language. If you accidentally call someone a turnip, they’ll know that you didn’t mean any offense. And you can always hit the trail again, fast, when you’re embarrassed.

Whistle

A whistle can be useful to annoy and confuse aggressive dogs occasionally encountered on the Camino—the high pitch hurts their ears. Keep it in an outside pocket while walking.

I’ve found mixed reviews on high-tech sound devices, so I take a regular whistle, like the type that’s small enough to attach to a keychain.

On the Camino

Whistle + Walking Stick = Dog’s Tail Between Legs

Sunglasses

Wraparound-style sunglasses help prevent dust from getting in your eyes—and also eliminate peripheral glare. A lightweight case protects them in the backpack when they’re not being worn.

Extra Eyeglasses

If you wear glasses, especially prescription eyeglasses, take an extra pair.

Print Magnifier

A magnifier is helpful for seeing tiny details on maps. A credit card–size magnifier, made of a hard plastic, is the lightest in weight. A small magnifier with a light could also double as a mini-flashlight.

Lip Balm

This is the ultimate lightweight item, but you should weigh it anyway. Remember, every gram contributes to another kilogram, and every small item counts in the total backpack weight.

Hand Sanitizer

Choose a pocket-size bottle of hand sanitizer for personal hygiene during the day’s walk.

Sunscreen

Since sunscreen can easily be replenished along the Camino, start out with a sample-size bottle.

Clothespins or Safety Pins

Clothespins can be scarce at pilgrims’ accommodations, or not available at inns or hotels. They’re worth bringing with you to hang socks, undies, a pack towel, or other items to dry.

Safety-pin advantage: Two socks can be pinned together to make an emergency ear band if it’s cold. Safety pins are also handy if you find yourself with a broken zipper.

Wristwatch

Leave a beloved watch at home. Since the watch you use on the Camino is likely to get wet, especially if you wear a baggy-sleeved poncho, choose a waterproof watch.

Bandana

Bandanas are incredibly versatile.

Consider taking two bandanas. One can be used as a table cloth and napkin, and to clean a knife or spoon. Use a second bandana:

• To wet and wipe your face in extreme heat
  
• To cover your face, bandit-style, when it’s very cold or as a defense against buzzing flies or other insects
  
• As a washrag
  
• To cover the back of the neck under an intense sun
  

String or Thin Cord