The Third Plate: Field Notes on the Future of Food (58 page)

Extremaduran food is unadorned and simple
:
For more on this cuisine, see Turespaña, “The Cuisine of Extremadura,” www.spain.info/en_US/que-quieres/gastronomia/cocina-regional/extremadura/extremadura.html.

“a fountain of energy flowing”
:
Aldo Leopold, “The Land Ethic,”
A Sand County Almanac and Sketches Here and There
,
216.

“like having a second tongue in my mouth”
:
Jeffrey Steingarten,
It Must Have Been Something I Ate
(2002; repr., New York: Vintage, 2003), 11–12.

Atlantic tuna populations dropped by up to 90 percent
:
See Carl Safina,
Song for the Blue Ocean: Encounters Along the World’s Coasts and Beneath the Seas
(New York: Henry Holt and Co., 1998), 8.

The article ran that fall
:
Caroline Bates, “Sea Change,”
Gourmet,
December 2005.

“sea ethic”
:
Safina,
Song for the Blue Ocean
, 440.

“honest inquiry into the reality of nature”
:
Ibid.

“soft vessels of seawater”
:
Ibid., 435.

“nothing we do seriously affects the number of the fish”
:
Thomas Henry Huxley, “Inaugural Address” (Fisheries Exhibition, London, 1883).

taking too many fish from the sea
:
For information and statistics on the decline of world fish stocks, see FAO Fisheries and Aquaculture Department,
The State of World Fisheries and Aquaculture 2012
(Rome: Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, 2012); and Wilf Swartz et al., “The Spatial Expansion and Ecological Footprint of Fisheries (1950 to Present),”
PLOS ONE
5, no. 12 (December 2010).

depleting certain populations of fish for ages
:
See W. Jeffrey Bolster,
The Mortal Sea: Fishing the Atlantic in the Age of Sail
(Cambridge, MA: Belknap Press, 2012). Bolster identifies the degradation of some fisheries as far back as the Middle Ages.

“too far” and “too deep”
:
Carl Safina and Carrie Brownstein, “Fish or Cut Bait: Solutions for Our Seas,” in
Food and Fuel: Solutions for the Future
, ed. Andrew Heintzman and Evan Solomon (Toronto: House of Anansi Press, 2009), 75.

“dragging a huge iron bar across the savannah”
:
Charles Clover,
The End of the Line: How Overfishing Is Changing the World and What We Eat
(Berkeley: University of California Press, 2008), 1.

Estimates of “bycatch”
:
See Dayton L. Alverson et al.,
A Global Assessment of Fisheries Bycatch and Discards
, FAO Fisheries Technical Paper no. 339 (Rome: Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, 1994).

dead zones worldwide
:
See R. J. Diaz and R. Rosenberg, “Spreading Dead Zones and Consequences for Marine Ecosystems,”
Science
321, no. 5891 (August 15, 2008): 926–9.

“decomposing bodies lying in sediment”
:
Nancy Rabalais, quoted in Allison Aubrey, “Troubled Seas: Farm Belt Runoff Prime Source of Ocean Pollution,”
Morning Edition
, National Public Radio, January 15, 2002.

food web begins with phytoplankton
:
For more on the role of phytoplankton, see Sanjida O’Connell, “The Science Behind That Fresh Seaside Smell,”
The Telegraph
, August 18, 2009; I. Emma Huertas et al., “Warming Will Affect Phytoplankton Differently: Evidence Through a Mechanistic Approach,”
Proceedings of the Royal Society B—Biological Sciences
278, no. 1724 (2011): 3534–43; and John Roach, “Source of Half Earth’s Oxygen Gets Little Credit,”
National Geographic News
,
June 7, 2004, http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2004/06/0607_040607_phytoplankton.html.

decline in phytoplankton
:
See Daniel G. Boyce, Marlon R. Lewis, and Boris Worm, “Global Phytoplankton Decline over the Past Century,”
Nature
466, no. 7306 (July 29, 2010): 591–6.

El Niño climate cycles
:
See Mike Bettwy, “El Niño and La Niña Mix Up Plankton Populations,” NASA, June 22, 2005, www.nasa.gov/vision/earth/lookingatearth/plankton_elnino.html.

one-third of the seafood
 . . . ordered in restaurants:
See
The Marketplace for Sustainable
Seafood: Growing Appetites and Shrinking Seas
(Washington, DC:
Seafood Choices Alliance, 2003), 9.

Rising CO
₂
levels
:
Bärbel Hönisch et al., “The Geological Record of Ocean Acidification,”
Science
335, no. 6072 (March 2012): 1058–63.

rise in the trophic levels of the fish used in recipes
:
See Phillip S. Levin and Aaron Dufault, “Eating up the Food Web,”
Fish and Fisheries
11, issue 3 (September 2010): 307–12.

“
Does this matter?”
:
Clover,
End of the Line
, 189.

The business of fish farming
:
For statistics on aquaculture, see FAO Fisheries and Aquaculture Department,
The State of World
Fisheries and Aquaculture 2012
; and R. L. Naylor et al., “Effects of Aquaculture on World Fish Supplies,”
Nature
405 (2000): 1017–24.

substituting grains and oilseeds
:
See Emiko Terazono, “Salmon Farmers Go for Veggie Option,”
Financial Times
, January 21, 2013.

Veta la Palma was born
:
See J. Miguel Medialdea, “A New Approach to Ecological Sustainability Through Extensive Aquaculture: The Model of Veta la Palma,” Proceedings of the 2008 TIES Workshop, Madison, Wisconsin; and J. Miguel Medialdea, “A New Approach to Sustainable Aquaculture,”
The Solutions Journal
, June 2010.

“the primeval meeting place”
:
Rachel Carson,
The Edge of the Sea
(1955; repr., New York: Mariner Books, 1998), xiii.

writing “the wrong kind of book”
:
Sue Hubbell, introduction to
The Edge of the Sea
,
xvi–xviii.

most important private estate for aquatic birds in all of Europe
:
Carlos Otero and Tony Bailey,
Europe’s Natural and Cultural Heritage: The European Estate
(Brussels: Friends of the Countryside, 2003), 701.

“A gastronome who is not an environmentalist is stupid”
:
Carlo Petrini, Report from the European Conference on Local and Regional Food, Lerum, Sweden, September 2005.

bird populations
 . . . have decreased:
See Robin McKie, “How EU Farming Policies Led to a Collapse in Europe’s Bird Population,”
The Observer
, May 26, 2012.

seabird populations
:
See Jeremy Hance, “Easing the Collateral Damage That Fisheries Inflict on Seabirds,”
Yale Environment 360
, August 9, 2012.

long before industrialized agriculture
:
See Christopher Cokinos,
Hope Is the Thing with Feathers:
A Personal Chronicle of Vanished Birds
(New York: Penguin 2009), 53. As Cokinos observes, “Prehistoric islanders in the Pacific killed off some 2,000 bird species, diminishing by one-fifth the global number through a variety of activities, including habitat destruction.”

“the world has lost at least eighty species”
:
Colin Tudge,
The Bird: A Natural History of Who Birds Are, Where They Came From, and How They Live
(New York: Random House, 2010), 400.

“a knock-on effect”
:
Alasdair Fotheringham, “Is This the End of Migration?”
The Independent
, April 18, 2010.

“The birds of Walden”
:
Jonathan Rosen,
The Life of the Skies: Birding at the End of Nature
(New York: Picador, 2008),
94.

fifteen pounds per person
:
Alan Lowther, ed.,
Fisheries of the United States 2011
(Silver Spring, MD: National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, 2012).

“Gravity is the sea’s enemy”
:
Carl Safina, “Cry of the Ancient Mariner: Even in the Middle of the Deep Blue Sea, the Albatross Feels the Hard Hand of Humanity,”
Time
, April 26, 2000.

longtime advocate of traditional diets
:
Sally Fallon Morell, “Very Small Is Beautiful” (lecture, Twenty-eighth Annual E. F. Schumacher Lectures, New Economics Institute, Stockbridge, MA, October 2008).

Cowan spent twenty years contemplating the question
:
See Thomas Cowan,
The Fourfold Path to Healing: Working with the Laws of Nutrition, Therapeutics, Movement and Meditation in the Art of Medicine
(Washington, DC: Newtrends Publishing, 2004). Cowan discusses Steiner’s understanding of the heart in chapter 3.

“the heart as a pump”
:
Rudolf Steiner, “Organic Processes and Soul Life” (1921), in
Freud, Jung, and Spiritual Psychology
,
3rd ed. (Great Barrington, MA: Anthroposophic Press, 2001), 124–5.

“
It is the blood that drives the heart
”
:
Rudolf Steiner, “The Question of Food” (1913), in
The Effects of Esoteric Development: Lecures by Rudolf Steiner
(Hudson, NY: Anthroposophic Press, 1997), 56.

scientific revolution
 . . . masters and possessors of nature:
Frederick Kirschenmann, “Spirituality in Agriculture” (academic paper, Concord School of Philosophy, Concord, MA, October 8, 2005).

“fishing down the food chain”
:
For more on this idea, see Taras Grescoe,
Bottomfeeder: How to Eat Ethically in a World of Vanishing Seafood
(New York: Bloomsbury, 2008).

“International Conspiracy to Catch All Tuna”
:
Safina,
Song for the Blue Ocean
, 13.

“reminding one of barn-yard fowls feeding from a dish”
:
Alan Davidson,
North Atlantic Seafood: A Comprehensive Guide with Recipes
(New York: Ten Speed Press, 2003), 115.

“a town with a bombed out center”
:
Jim Hinch, “Medium-Size Me,”
Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and Culture
8, no. 4 (Fall 2008), 72.

in another decade most of them will be gone
:
For more on midsize farms, see Fred Kirschenmann et al., “Why Worry About the Agriculture of the Middle? A White Paper for the Agriculture of the Middle Project” (n.d.), http://grist.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/whitepaper2.pdf.

nothing “intrinsically sweet” about sugar
:
Daniel C. Dennett,
Breaking the Spell: Religion as a Natural Phenomenon
(New York: Viking, 2006), 59.

refined wheat in sociocultural terms
:
For more on the sociocultural history of white
bread, see Aaron Bobrow-Strain,
White Bread: A Social History of the Store-Bought Loaf
(Boston: Beacon Press, 2012); H. E. Jacob and Peter Reinhart,
Six Thousand Years of Bread
(New York: Skyhorse Publishing, 2007); Steven Laurence Kaplan,
Good Bread Is Back: A Contemporary History of French Bread, the Way It Is Made, and the People Who Make It
(Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 2006); Harold McGee,
On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen
(New York: Scribner, 2004); Michael Pollan,
Cooked: The Natural History of Transformation
(New York: The Penguin Press, 2013); and William Rubel,
Bread: A Global History
(London: Reaktion Books, 2011).

“The bread is as soft as floss”
:
Theodore Roszak,
The Making of a Counter Culture: Reflections on the Technocratic Society and Its Youthful Opposition
(Berkeley: University of California Press,
1969), 13.

The countercuisine movement
:
See Warren J. Belasco,
Appetite for Change: How the Counterculture Took on the Food Industry
(Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press, 2006), 46–50.

“The worst loaf of bread”
:
Jeffrey Steingarten, “The Whole Truth: Jeffrey Steingarten Searches for Grains That Taste as Good as They Are Good for You,”
Vogue
, November 2005.

rice kitchen
:
See Karen Hess,
The Carolina Rice Kitchen: The African Connection
(Columbia: University of South Carolina Press, 1992)
,
3.

agriculture in the South became largely experimental
:
For information on the South’s age of experimental agriculture, see Burkhard Bilger, “True Grits,”
The New Yorker
, October 31, 2011, 40–53; Interview with Glenn Roberts, “Old School,”
Common-place
11, no. 3 (April 2011); David Shields, “The Roots of Taste,”
Common-place
11, no. 3 (April 2011); and David Shields, ed.
The Golden Seed: Writings on the History and Culture of Carolina Gold Rice
(Charleston: The Carolina Gold Rice Foundation, 2010).