The Southern Po' Boy Cookbook (12 page)

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, very soft

1 pinch sea salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon minced fresh garlic

4 tablespoons grated pecorino Romano cheese, plus more for topping

pinch of cayenne

pinch of white pepper

squirt of fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon minced Italian parsley

12 freshly shucked large oysters on the half shell (increase number if they are small- or medium-sized)

1 (12-inch) loaf French bread, split

1}
  Preheat an outdoor grill until very hot. Meanwhile, make a buttery cheese sauce by mixing together the softened butter, salt, black pepper, garlic, 4 tablespoons of the cheese, cayenne, white pepper, lemon juice, and parsley in a food processor. Pulse until smooth.

2}
  Place the oysters, shell side down, on the hottest part of the grill, and let them cook in their own juices until they begin to bubble and their edges curl, 2 to 3 minutes. Do not overcook! Add a dab of the buttery cheese sauce on each oyster a minute or 2 before removing them from the grill. Lay the bread split side down on the grill, and toast until golden.

3}
  Remove the oysters from the shells, and place on the bottom half of the bread. Sprinkle some pecorino Romano cheese over thr top, close the sandwich, and cut into 2 sections for a meal to serve. Divide into 6 sections for appetizers.

MY CITY

This is for my city, for the passion that grows inside . . .

For Old Man River’s holy waters, muddy, deep, and wide!

The moss-draped, ancient oaks of Audubon and City Park . . .

The skyline from the Algiers’ Ferry after dark!

This is for my city, and to her fierce will to survive . . .

Came damn near close to drowning, bet your brass she’s still alive!

The carriage rides and streetcars, depth of character and joy . . .

A Mardi Gras of memories that time just can’t destroy!

The best food and music! A jazzy jewel of the South . . .

She’s divine and delicious! Curse her not! Yeah, watch ya mouth!

This is for my city, with flaws and all, She brings me pride . . .

For Old Man River’s holy waters . . .

Muddy,

Deep,

and

Wide!

BOY OH BOY: IF IT SWIMS, COOK IT!

“New Orleans, more than many places I know, actually tangibly lives its culture. It’s not just a residual of life; it’s a part of life. Music is at every major milestone of our life: birth, marriage, death. It’s our culture.”

—Wendell Pierce

THE TREMÉ

Fried Catfish Po’ Boy

The now-famous Tremé neighborhood of New Orleans is famous for lots of things, like being the actual birthplace of jazz, and that same jazzy rhythm has seemingly made its way into the food the folks there cook and serve on a daily basis. This catfish po’ boy is one testament to that glorious truth!

Serves 4

1/2 cup buttermilk

1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/4 cup yellow cornmeal

1/4 cup flour

2 teaspoons Cajun or Creole seasoning

1/4 teaspoon minced fresh garlic

3 tablespoons canola oil, divided

4 (6-ounce) catfish fillets

Assembly

4 (6-inch) French rolls, split

1/2 bottle Louisiana-style tartar sauce

2 cups shredded lettuce

1 large Creole or beefsteak tomato, sliced

1}
  Whisk together the buttermilk, Tabasco, salt, and cayenne in a medium bowl. In a large shallow dish, stir together the cornmeal, flour, Cajun or Creole seasoning, and garlic.

2}
  In a large skillet over medium heat, heat half of the oil. Dip two catfish fillets into the buttermilk mixture, and dredge in the cornmeal and flour mixture, tapping off the excess. Fry the fillets until golden brown, turning once, about 6 minutes. Heat the remaining oil, and repeat the procedure for coating and cooking the other 2 fillets.

3}
  Spread tartar sauce on both sides of the rolls. Layer on lettuce and tomato slices on each roll, and top with a catfish fillet. Serve immediately.

THE RIVER RIDGE

Oyster Po’ Boy with Rémoulade Coleslaw

In the Deep South, deep frying is still considered the number one technique for cooking seafood. You can expect to eat seafood in this manner when visiting Cajun country (everything in moderation, of course). This recipe makes enough that you can invite old and new friends over to help you devour these mighty tasty po’ boys!

Serves 6

Fried Oysters

peanut oil, for frying

1 egg

1 cup milk

1 cup water

2 tablespoons Creole mustard

1 tablespoon yellow mustard

salt and cracked black pepper, to taste

1-1/2 cups yellow cornmeal

1-1/2 cups yellow corn flour

2 tablespoons garlic powder

4 dozen fresh oysters

Assembly

6 (6-inch) loaves French bread, split

3 cups Rémoulade Coleslaw (recipe follows)

18 thin slices tomato

spicy ketchup

1}
  Preheat the oven to 375°F. Place the bread on a large cookie sheet, and set aside.

2}
  Attach a deep-fry thermometer to the side of a 6 to 8-quart cast-iron Dutch oven, and add enough oil to measure 3 inches deep. Over medium-high heat, heat the oil to 375°F. Adjust heat to maintain this temperature.

3}
  Meanwhile, make the rémoulade coleslaw (
page 40
), and set aside.

4}
  Make an egg wash by whisking together the egg, milk, water, both mustards, and salt and pepper in a medium bowl. In a separate medium bowl, combine the cornmeal, corn flour, and garlic powder. Dip the oysters, 6 at a time, in the egg batter and then into the cornmeal and corn flour mixture, tapping off the excess. Drop into the hot oil, and cook until the oysters float, about 3 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon, and drain on paper towels.

5}
  While the oysters are frying, place the bread in the preheated oven, and turn off the heat, to allow the bread to become warm and crispy. Remove from the oven, and place rémoulade coleslaw and tomato slices on the bottom halves of the bread, and spicy ketchup on the top halves. Lay 6 oysters over the coleslaw, close the sandwiches, secure with toothpicks, and slice each in half. Serve immediately.

Rémoulade Coleslaw

1-1/2 cups mayonnaise

1/2 cup Creole mustard

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon Louisiana-style hot sauce

1/2 cup spicy ketchup

1/4 cup minced red bell pepper

1/4 cup minced banana pepper

1/2 cup minced celery

3 tablespoons minced fresh garlic

1/4 cup minced fresh parsley

1/2 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

salt and cracked black pepper, to taste

1-1/2 cups shredded green cabbage

1-1/2 cup shredded red cabbage

3/4 cup finely shredded carrots

1}
  To make this spicy rémoulade sauce, combine the mayonnaise, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, hot sauce, ketchup, bell pepper, banana pepper, celery, garlic, parsley, lemon juice, and salt and pepper, mixing well. Toss together the shredded cabbages and carrot, then add the rémoulade sauce, tossing well to combine.

THE NORTHSHORE

Fried Soft-Shell Crab Po’ Boy

This is my personal all-time favorite po’ boy—nothing else comes close! When it comes to a specific regional food item that makes me think of home and brings back memories of my family and our traditions, this po’ boy reigns supreme. It’s a NOLA thing!

Serves 4

Fried Soft-Shell Crab

1 egg

1 cup milk

1-1/2 cups flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

8 (3-1/2-inch) soft-shelled crabs, cleaned

1 tablespoon salt

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

peanut oil, for frying

Assembly

2 (12-inch) loaves French bread, split and toasted

4 to 6 tablespoons mayonnaise or tartar sauce

4 cups shredded iceberg lettuce

pickle slices

3 medium tomatoes, sliced

Louisiana-style hot sauce, to taste

1}
  In a medium bowl, make an egg wash by whisking together the egg and milk. In another medium bowl, sift together the flour and baking powder.

2}
  Season the crabs with salt and pepper. Dip the crabs in the egg wash, and then dredge in the flour mixture, tapping off the excess. Set aside.

3}
  In a large frying pan over medium high heat, pour enough oil to measure 1-1/2 inches deep, and heat to 350°F. Carefully drop the battered crabs into the hot oil, but do not crowd the pan. Fry in batches until golden brown, turning once, about 5 minutes on each side. Drain on paper towels.