The Second Avenue Deli Cookbook (18 page)

SERVES
6

This cut of beef, taken from the front breast section, is a traditional holiday meat. It requires long, slow cooking to become a richly flavored, tender dish. The Deli's brisket needs to be marinated in spices for at least a day in advance of cooking, so plan ahead. Spice it in the morning and let it marinate overnight before cooking.

1. In a bowl, combine onion powder, garlic powder, paprika, salt, pepper, and celery salt; mix thoroughly. Dredge the brisket in this spice mixture, making sure every part of it is well covered. Place in a deep dish covered with aluminum foil, and refrigerate for 1 or 2 days.

2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the corn oil in a large skillet, and brown the meat on both sides.

3. Transfer brisket to a Dutch oven, add ½ cup water, cover, and simmer for 1 hour.

4. While meat is simmering, heat remaining 2 tablespoons corn oil in a large skillet, and sauté onions, stirring occasionally. When the onions are nicely browned, add garlic, which browns quickly.

5. Add onions and garlic to brisket pot. Cover, and continue simmering for 2½ hours, or until meat is fully cooked. To test for doneness, stick a fork in the leaner end of the brisket; when there is a slight pull on the fork as it is removed from the meat, it is done. Cook longer if necessary.

6. Remove brisket to a plate, and trim all visible fat. Then place the brisket (with what was the fat side down) on a cutting board, and carve thin slices across the grain (the muscle lines of the brisket) with a sharp, thin-bladed knife. Serve hot with gravy from the pot or cold in sandwiches.

SERVES
6

This variation on the Deli's basic brisket recipe (directly above) is the kind of dish that becomes a staple when you're cooking for company; it's richly satisfying and impressive. It, too, needs to be marinated in spices for at least a day in advance of cooking, so plan ahead. Prepare as the above recipe through step 3; use the same ingredients, but omit the celery salt.

1 to 3. Follow steps of brisket recipe above, using the same ingredients except for the celery salt.

4. While meat is simmering, heat 2 tablespoons of corn oil in skillet, and sauté onions, stirring occasionally. When the onions are nicely browned, add garlic, which browns quickly. Remove onions and garlic to a bowl, and set aside.

5. Add honey to the brisket pot, and stir it into the juices. Cover, and continue simmering for 30 minutes. (If you rub your measuring cup with vegetable oil, the honey will slide right out of it.)

6. In a large bowl, mix raw potatoes and carrots, basil, and onion-garlic mixture. Add to the pot, cover, and continue simmering for 1 hour.

7. Remove vegetables to a large bowl, and place brisket on a plate, leaving the meat juices in the pot. Add brown sugar, and stir in. Add prunes. Return half of the vegetables to the pot (it's best to put the ones that were previously on top, and are less cooked, on the bottom), place brisket on top of them, and pile the remaining vegetables on it. Cover, and simmer 1 hour longer, or until everything is fully cooked. To test for doneness, stick a fork in the leaner end of the brisket; when there is a slight pull on the fork as it is removed from the meat, it is done.

8. Remove brisket to a plate, and trim all visible fat. Then place the brisket (with what was the fat side down) on a cutting board, and carve thin slices across the grain (the muscle lines of the brisket) with a sharp, thin-bladed knife. Stir vegetable-prune mixture in pot to thoroughly combine flavors. If you'd like the brisket a bit hotter, place the slices on top of the vegetables, cover, and reheat.

SERVES
8

This is a terrific meat loaf, with sophisticated spicing raising it a bit above its prosaic hash house roots. Consider baking hard-boiled eggs into it, as in Raoul Felder's recipe, just below.

1. Heat corn oil in a large skillet, and sauté onions until light golden brown. Add garlic at the last minute, and brown quickly. Remove to a bowl with a slotted spoon, and sauté green peppers in remaining oil. Add to bowl, and refrigerate.