The Passionate Olive (5 page)

Olive Oil

The classification of
Olive Oil
means that it is an oil that is obtained only from the fruit of the olive tree. It is not mixed with any other oils (for example, hazelnut oil), and the process by which it is made cannot involve the use of solvents or reesterification (one definitely needs a college chemistry course to understand this!). The classification of
Olive Oil
is further divided into
Virgin Olive Oil
and
Olive Oil
.

In order for an olive oil to bear the classification of
virgin
, the oil must be obtained only by mechanical means or other physical means, under specific temperature or thermal requirements that do not lead to its alteration or deterioration. Any treatment other than washing, decantation, centrifugation, or filtration is not acceptable. There are several grades of virgin olive oil. Here are the two that you are probably familiar with:

• Extra Virgin Olive Oil
  means that the oil has been made by mechanical means, its free acidity (oleic acid) is not more than 0.8 percent, and the oil has no defects. Many countries are now requiring specific labeling regulations—for example, the label requirement for extra virgin olive oil reads: “This is an olive oil of superior category produced directly from olives and only through mechanical processes.”
  
• Virgin Olive Oil
  means that its free acidity (oleic acid) is not more than 2 percent, and there may be minor defects. Virgin olive oil is also made by mechanical means.
  

Let’s leave the virgin classification and the two grades described above and move on to the other classification under
Olive Oil: Olive Oil
. Yes, to add to the confusion, the overall classification of
Olive Oil
(meaning oil made solely from the fruit of the olive tree) is different from the designation or grade called
Olive Oil
.

• Olive Oil
  , as a grade, means that it is a blend of refined and virgin olive oil. It has a free acidity (oleic acid) of not more than 1 percent. Regulations in some countries require labeling on olive oil to read: “Oil containing exclusively olive oil which has undergone a refining process and oil produced directly from olives.”
  

Refined means that defects, found in the base oil, are removed and that the oil is blended with extra virgin or virgin olive oil. Solvents are not used to extract the oil, but it has been refined with the use of charcoal and other chemical and physical filters.

Olive-Pomace Oil

Olive-Pomace Oil
is obtained by treating olive pomace (the pulpy material that remains after the pressing of olives) with solvents or other physical treatments. The grade of
Olive-Pomace Oil
sold to consumers consists of a blend of refined olive-pomace oil and virgin olive oil. You will notice that the term
olive oil
is not used in this classification because it cannot be applied to olive-residue oils. Some countries forbid the sale of olive-pomace oil for consumption. Although olive-pomace oil is sometimes used for cooking (I don’t think it should be!), those who are interested in quality cooking and baking would never use this oil.

First Cold Pressed and Cold Extraction

Other terms we often see on labels are
first cold pressed
and
cold extraction
. If a label reads “first cold pressed,” the oil must have been produced from the first pressing of olives with a traditional hydraulic press at a temperature of less than 27°C (80.6°F).

The term
cold extraction
refers to oil produced at temperatures of less than 27°C (80.6°F) using an extraction system that is not a hydraulic press. It can be a percolation system (Sinolea) or a centrifugal system (decanting centrifuge).

While various producers passionately disagree about
which technology is the best, it appears that the less heat and the quicker and more careful the extraction, the better the oil. However, there may be oils labeled “cold pressed” that are made not using a hydraulic press. The designation description “cold pressed” does not guarantee a superior olive oil.

Filtered and Unfiltered

Other terms we hear are “unfiltered” and “filtered.” “Unfiltered” oil looks opaque or hazy because tiny particles of the fruit are still suspended in the oil and will sink to the bottom of the bottle over time. These particles are removed in “filtered” oil by a process using cotton wool or filter paper that traps the small particles of the fruit and fruit water. Serious tasters and producers prefer “unfiltered” oil because they feel it is better protected against oxidation and tastes more lively and vibrant. However, a good quality extra virgin olive oil tastes delicious whether filtered or unfiltered.

Estate Grown, Blended, and Light Olive Oils

Other labels we often come across include “estate grown,” “blended,” “light olive oil,” or even “extra light olive oil.” In California, “estate grown” means that at least 95 percent of the oil must be derived from a particular estate.
“Blended olive oil” is produced by combining olive oils from different geographical origins or different cultivars.

We also see the terms
light olive oil
and
extra light olive oil
. These terms are often used as marketing ploys. Consumers may think that “extra” means “extra virgin,” which it does not, and may think that “light” refers to fewer calories, which it does not. “Light” does
not
mean fewer calories; all oil has the same number of calories: 120 per tablespoon. These are refined oils that are lighter in color, fragrance, and taste.

The Problem with the Classifications … But There Is Good News

The trouble with these various definitions is that not all countries (including the United States) use European Union regulations or IOOC standards. Theoretically, a producer can chemically refine an olive oil and label it “extra virgin,” or an importer can label inferior oil as “extra virgin.” The good news is that there is a law that requires a label to include the country of origin of the oils. It is not enough to merely indicate “imported from” or “packed in,” the label must specify where the oils originated. Read labels! You may think you are buying an Italian olive oil, only to discover on the back of the label a line reading: “Packed in Italy with oils of Italy, Spain, Greece, and Tunisia.”

Another note of good news is that several regions,
states, and countries issue seals and certifications of authenticity of origin and specific standards for their extra virgin olive oils. In the United States, California issues the
COOC
(California Olive Oil Council) seal; for Italian oils, look for
DOP
(Denominazone di Origine Protetta), translated as
PDO
(Protected Designation of Origin), and
IPG
(Indicazione Geografica Protetta), translated as
PGI
(Protected Geographical Indication); for Greek oils, look for
PDO
(Protected Designation of Origin); for French oils, the designation is
AOC
(Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée); and for Spanish oils, the
DO
(Denominación de Origen) initials will appear.

In the United States, the
COOC
works with its own certified tasting panel and issues the
COOC
seal to those oils that achieve the
IOOC
extra virgin olive oil rating. The
IOOC
has accredited experts and “taste panels” that operate in various participating producer countries; it has given them the specific task of certifying that oils are truly extra virgin olive oils according to
IOOC
organoleptic (taste and aroma) specifications. The first California official olive oil panel of tasters was certified in 2001 by the
IOOC
. The
COOC
, in cooperation with the University of California at Davis extension, created this panel. Headed by Roberto Zecca and Paul Vossen, it meets several times a month to judge whether submitted California olive oils meet the
IOOC
standards and can accurately be labeled “extra virgin olive oil”—that is, oil without any defects.

A tasting panel conducts blind organoleptic evaluations of olive oils and makes a determination based upon the presence or absence of defects. Specific adjectives are used to describe both the positive attributes and the major defects of the oils sampled. The positive attribute taste descriptors are fruity
(fruttato)
, bitter
(amaro)
, and pungent
(piccante)
. Descriptors, used to describe the sensory perception of defects, include fusty, musty, winey-vinegary, muddy sediment, metallic, and rancid. The
IOOC
provides certified tasting panels with detailed instructions and a standard assessment form, called a Profile Sheet, which is used to document the judging of extra virgin olive oil.

Annual olive oil competitions abound in many olive oil-producing countries. Major competitions in Europe include the Leone D’Oro and L’Orciolo D’Oro, both of which are international, and the Ercole Olivario, which is open only to estate-produced Italian oils. The only competition held in the United States is the Olive Oils of the World competition at the Los Angeles County Fair each May, where a team, including world-renowned official tasters, meets to taste and judge. At this competition, the Sensory Assessment profile analysis is used to award gold, silver, and bronze medals for extra virgin olive oil. The late Dr. Mario Solinas, a former professor at the University of Perugia, developed the assessment analysis several years ago. He was the first researcher to provide a common approach
in defining and analyzing the positive aspects and qualities of extra virgin olive oil.

Still a Bit Confused?

Stick to extra virgin olive oil for fine cooking. A true connoisseur of olive oil knows that extra virgin is the best in terms of quality and taste. It should exhibit an “olive fruity” taste, ranging from light to medium to intense. Just as wines vary according to varietals of grapes, climatic conditions, and soil attributes, olives, too, have many varying qualities that affect the oil they ultimately produce. There are, as well, the variations in color and in taste, due to the time of harvest, different methods of oil extraction, the regions and climatic conditions, and different olive cultivars.

There are approximately 2,500 types of olives worldwide, 431 in Italy alone. In each growing region (note, I did not say country) there are distinctive cultivars. For example, the most well-known olives for olive oil production in central Italy around Tuscany, Umbria, and the Marche are Frantoio, Leccino, Pendolino, and Moraiolo olives. In Liguria, it is the Taggiasca; in southern Italy, around Puglia, Abruzzo, and Molise, are the Coratina and Ogliarola olives; and in Sicily, the Giraffa and Nocellera olives. In Greece, in the Peloponnesus, the Kalamata (Kalamon) olive reigns supreme; and on Crete, it is the Koroneiki. In Catalonia, Spain, the Arbequina is the popular olive grown for oil production; in southern Spain, the Hojiblanca is common; but the Picual accounts for over 50 percent of the olives grown in Spain (the world’s largest olive oil-producing
country). When any of these olive trees are grown in different geographic regions (for example, in California), they may produce slightly different flavors.

So How Do You Decide?

With all of the olive oil products on the market, it is good to become familiar with the various labeling descriptors. Remember to look for the “use by” date. Once opened, olive oil should optimally be used within sixty to ninety days. Always check for the country of origin (of the olives and the oil) and look for specific seals or marks of authenticity. This can help you in your buying decisions. Also, more important, a reputable retailer can answer your questions and guide you.

Yet in the end, even after all the tasting, testing, reading, studying, and discussing … what tastes, smells, looks, and feels best to you is the olive oil you should use and enjoy.

You May Ask, But What Types of Olive Oil Do I Use and When?

As you read other chapters of
The Passionate Olive: 101 Things to Do with Olive Oil
, you will notice frequent references to the classification or type of olive oil to use in a
given recipe or formula. I find the best rule of thumb is to use extra virgin olive oil for cooking, for that morning tablespoon (more about
that
later), and for most applications directly on the skin—whether adult, baby, or pet. Extra virgin olive oil is superior in terms of quality and taste and antioxidant benefits. For other health and beauty uses, including those on the hair, in the bath, or in the ears, a virgin olive oil or olive oil can be used. Of course, extra virgin olive oil works for these uses as well; that’s what I usually use. For tasks in and around the house, use a refined and less-expensive olive oil. I have also included a chart of Suggested Types of Olive Oil for 100 Uses and a chart of Suggested Types of Olive Oil for Cooking in the Olive Oil Usage Guidelines section of the book.