The Mediterranean Slow Cooker Cookbook (4 page)

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Authors: Diane Phillips

BOOK: The Mediterranean Slow Cooker Cookbook

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CAPERS /
These small buds grow on a bush that is native to the Mediterranean. Capers are cured in either salt or brine. The brined version will do just fine, and you can find them in any supermarket; just drain off the brine. Capers add a piquant flavor to dishes, and are used extensively in many Mediterranean countries. The buds come in a tiny and a larger size; the larger capers will need to be chopped for most dishes.

CHEESE /
Great cheeses abound in the Mediterranean, from Greek feta to Spanish Manchego, which are both made primarily from sheep’s milk. Great cheeses can add flavor, texture, and even spice to a dish. Search out a cheese shop in your area; cheesemongers are usually knowledgeable and often they will order what you would like. The cheese person at the supermarket may also be the kid who unloads the milk truck, so chances are his knowledge isn’t going to help on the night you are looking for a nice pecorino romano!

CURED AND SMOKED MEATS AND SAUSAGES /
Where to begin? Many Mediterranean countries produce sausages, hams, and other cured and smoked meats prized for their exceptional flavor. In Italy there is prosciutto from Parma, salt-cured according to traditional methods, along with other salumi, and in Spain, Serrano ham and chorizo sausage. Portugal is known for its linguiça sausage; France, for its charcuterie, such as pâté; and Morocco, for its Merguez sausage. All are available in the United States, where some artisans make them according to old-world methods. Where possible, I have suggested alternatives for some hard-to-find items.

DRIED BEANS AND LENTILS /
The packaged dried beans and lentils at the supermarket may be old, so I recommend that you buy them at a health or natural foods store from bins, where you can get exactly as much as you need. The turnover at natural foods stores is usually rapid, which means you can depend on the beans being fresher. Old beans take forever to cook, so check the expiration date if you have packaged beans.

DRIED FRUITS /
The dried fruits of the region—apricots, figs, dates, raisins, apples, and pears—all contribute to Mediterranean cuisine. I usually buy my dried fruits from bins at a local natural foods store, where I know the food turns over frequently and I will be getting plump fruits.

DRIED HERBS /
Buy quality here; it will enhance your dishes. Always sauté dried herbs before adding them to the slow cooker; they need to develop their flavor before liquid is added. Avoid dried herbs that have been rubbed, like sage. When the herb is rubbed, it loses most of its essential oils. To make sure your dried herbs are fresh, give them the sniff test. If there is no aroma, it needs to be tossed, and a new one purchased. I usually buy my herbs and spices from Penzeys, a terrific source for hard-to-find herbs and spices
Resources
.

EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL /
Here you will get what you pay for. That inexpensive bottle on the shelf in the supermarket will probably be a blend of many different oils from around the Mediterranean, which the producers bought up after the premium olive oil had been pressed and bottled. Whatever you choose, buy a small bottle and taste it when you get it home. Olive oil, like salt, and wine, is a personal preference; some people like a peppery aftertaste, while others like a buttery flavor.

FRESH FRUITS AND VEGETABLES /
Full-service super-markets are getting the message that their customers are looking for locally grown and organic foods, and many markets have a special section for that produce. I shop farmers’ markets; there is a terrific one here in San Diego, where I can get local fruits and veggies for less than those in the supermarket. I recommend that you buy organic and locally grown whenever possible. The finished dishes will be so much more delicious and authentic than if you use conventional produce that has been on planes, trains, and trucks to get to your local supermarket, having been picked a week or two before you buy it.

GARLIC /
Heads of fresh garlic won’t break the bank, and they are definitely tastier than any peeled or already minced preparation in your store. Elephant garlic is not the same, so steer clear. Look for closed heads that don’t have any green sprouts starting, a sign the garlic is old and will not add much flavor, but may be bitter.

LEEKS /
Leeks are part of the onion family, but are more closely related to green onions and spring onions, with a mild flavor and gorgeously green-tinted leaves. Leeks are grown in sand, so it is necessary to clean them thoroughly before cooking. The best way is to slice them in half lengthwise, and spread the layers apart to expose any sand or grit that may be hiding in the crevices.

OLIVES /
Many full-service supermarkets have olive bars, and you can buy just the amount you need. Oil-cured olives have a unique flavor, quite different from brine-cured olives. So if a recipe calls for oil-cured olives, they are worth searching out.

ONIONS /
Sweet yellow onions, which are at least 6 percent sugar, are my first choice in many cooking preparations. Vidalia, Walla Walla, Maui, Mayan Sweets, and Texas 1015 are all available in supermarkets. Common yellow onions are called for when the sweetness of a dish requires their stronger flavor for balance. Red onions can be substituted for either type of onion in recipes, adding color and depth of flavor. White onions are generally preferred raw as a garnish on many dishes. Shallots, another member of the onion family, have a bit of a garlicky flavor, and pack a lot of punch in a small package. Look for onions and shallots that aren’t bruised, and are firm to the touch. The skin should be tight, and there shouldn’t be any green sprouts at the top, which means they are old and will be bitter.

PAPRIKA /
Not just for dusting on potato salads or deviled eggs, paprika actually has a flavor and an aroma. Smoked paprika is used in Spanish dishes, hot paprika kicks up the flavors in spicy foods, and sweet paprika is used extensively in North African dishes.

RED PEPPER FLAKES /
Red pepper flakes are essential for many dishes in this book, lending a spicy, warm flavor to the finished dish. Red spices tend to go bad and lose their flavor fairly quickly, so if you still have the bottle of red pepper flakes that came with your spice rack, you will need to get rid of it and buy fresh. If the red pepper is brown in color, get rid of it. Always sauté red pepper flakes, as well as cayenne pepper, before adding any liquid to the pan, so they will bloom in the oil, giving you a balanced flavor and taking away any harsh taste.

SAFFRON /
The dried stamens of the crocus plant, this herb adds an exotic flavor to risotto, paella, and many North African dishes. Although it is expensive, you will not need much to make a statement in your dishes.

SALT /
I prefer to cook with sea salt—either coarse, which I grind, or fine, which I use straight out of the container. I also use fleur de sel, which is a finishing sea salt (to be sprinkled over a finished dish), and sometimes a flaky sea salt from Cyprus. I like Maldon salt for its clean, fresh taste, and I sprinkle it on dishes to flavor them while they cook, or sprinkle it on freshly cooked vegetables as they come off the heat. I am not fond of kosher salt. It has a processed aftertaste to my palate, but if it is your preference, then by all means, use it.

VINEGAR /
You will need a good white wine vinegar, red wine vinegar, and balsamic vinegar for your Mediterranean dishes. Be sure to check labels; many red wine vinegars are a blend of distilled white vinegar and some red wine vinegar added for color. Check the type of wine that was used, too. A Chianti, Cabernet, Burgundy, or Zinfandel wine vinegar will last a long time in a cool, dry pantry, and serve you well. White wine vinegars may also be blended, so check the label and buy one made with a single varietal, such as Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc.

A good balsamic vinegar from Modena, where it is traditionally made, is thick, syrupy, and sweet enough to serve over ice cream or strawberries. Supermarket balsamics tend to be red wine vinegar with sugar and caramel coloring, so be forewarned. You should expect to pay about $30/£10 for a bottle of balsamic that has been aged. Traditionally made, imported Italian balsamic vinegar aged for ten or twenty-five years is an expensive proposition, but you can find good-quality balsamic vinegars in gourmet markets and specialty retail stores.

CH.01
SOUPS

That old commercial for canned soup comes to mind when I think of a steaming slow cooker filled with hearty soup; it’s mmmmm good. Soup in the Mediterranean kitchen is simmered for long periods on the back of the stove as the cook goes about her other housework. Long-simmering soups filled with vegetables, bits of meat or poultry, beans, and maybe pasta or rice bubble away on stoves in every region of the Mediterranean. You can make these delicious, comforting soups, from Italian
Minestrone
to
Greek Egg and Lemon Soup
, with just a bit of prep and then a long, low simmer.

Soups benefit from long simmering, and improve in flavor with 10 hours of cooking time. Leftovers usually freeze well, but you can also keep them in the refrigerator for a few days. When making soup, be sure to cut each ingredient so that it is bite-size. That way your family won’t have to cut the vegetables or protein in the bowl.

Minestrone

A recipe from Italy’s
cucina povera
(“cuisine of the poor”), minestrone is the original stone soup, meaning the ingredients are subject to the cook’s whim, and just about anything can go into the pot. Its preparation begins with a flavor layer called a
battuto,
a mélange of onion, carrot, celery, herbs, tomato, and sometimes garlic. When the elements of the
battuto
are sautéed together, they form the flavor base.
Minestrone
literally means “without stock,” and in days gone by, the vegetables provided the flavor for the soup broth. I think chicken or vegetable broth adds character and flavor to the soup, and I use either one when preparing it. The cut-up rinds from aged Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese add just the right amount of salt and still more flavor, making this soup a home run after a long day at the office.