The Martha Stewart Living Cookbook (4 page)

SPECIALTY ITEMS

ASIAN FISH SAUCE
This dark brown sauce is made from fermented fish (often anchovies) and has a pungent aroma and a subtle, salty taste. It is a popular condiment in Southeast Asia, particularly Thailand (where it’s known as nam pla) and Vietnam (nuoc nam). Nam pla is also added during cooking, often with soy sauce, tamarind, or other seasonings. Opened bottles should be refrigerated, where they will keep almost indefinitely.

ASIAN NOODLES
Here are the most common types of Asian noodles; as with Italian pasta, it is a good idea to have a few types on hand at all times for making soups, salads, and other dishes. Unopened, they can be kept in their original packages almost indefinitely. Once opened, store in a tightly sealed bag or container and use within a year.

cellophane noodles,
also known as bean threads or glass noodles, are made from processed mung beans. They are opaque in their dried form, but once they have been soaked in hot water, they become clear and gelatinous. These noodles are generally prized for their texture, since they have very little flavor. Capellini or vermicelli can often be substituted.

chinese egg noodles,
made from wheat flour and whole eggs or egg whites, come in various widths. They are usually sold in small tangled nests that are meant to be dropped into hot soups (without prior cooking). Fresh egg noodles can also be found in the refrigerated section of many supermarkets.

rice noodles,
also known as rice-stick noodles and rice vermicelli (slightly thinner strands), are made from rice flour. There are two shapes: round and flat. The extra-thin rice vermicelli are also known as mi fen (Chinese), bun (Vietnamese), and sen mee (Thai). They are usually soaked to soften in hot water before eating. Rice sticks are the flat version. Medium-size sticks are called pho. The slightly wider Thai version is called jantaboon.

soba noodles,
made from buckwheat flour, have a nutty flavor and are rich in fiber and protein. These noodles are extremely versatile, and can be served hot or cold in soups, salads, and stir-fries.

somen noodles,
the most prized of all Japanese noodles, have a delicate flavor and texture. They are made from wheat flour and a little oil and are always packaged in small bundles. The difference between somen and other Japanese noodles is the way they are made: Somen are made by pulling; other noodles are made by rolling and cutting.

udon
These thick, white, slippery Japanese noodles are made from wheat or corn flour. Udon may be round, square, or flat. Their neutral flavor makes them the ideal addition to robust flavored soups and sauces. Udon can be found in both fresh and dried forms at Asian markets.

ASIAN WRAPPERS

dumpling wrappers
Most supermarkets carry at least one or two types of frozen dumpling wrappers, usually wonton or shao mai skins. You can find more of a variety of fresh and frozen wrappers at Asian markets; if you have access to one, buy an assortment of wrappers and store them, well wrapped, in the freezer, where they’ll keep for up to six months. Fresh wrappers will last for up to a month in the refrigerator; frozen ones defrost fully in about an hour. Paperthin yet durable spring-roll skins are sold only frozen and can be thawed and frozen repeatedly without any deterioration in quality. When making dumplings, fill one at a time and keep the remaining wrappers covered with a damp paper towel so they do not dry out. Once formed, dumplings can be steamed, boiled, or fried. Besides their traditional use in making Asian-style dumplings, some wrappers (especially wonton) are a convenient substitute for fresh pasta when making ravioli and other filled shapes.

rice-paper wrappers:
These round or triangular wrappers are made from a mixture of rice flour, water, and salt, which is machine-rolled paper thin, then dried in the sun on bamboo mats, the weave of which gives them their unique texture and pattern. They are brittle, so moisten them with water before using and keep them covered with a damp paper towel while you work. These wrappers can be used uncooked, as when making summer rolls. They are also sturdy enough for steaming or deep-frying.

BUCKWHEAT FLOUR
Buckwheat flour is the ground seeds of the buckwheat plant, which is not a grain but actually an herb. Because it is rather dense, buckwheat flour is generally combined with another flour in a three-to-one ratio to achieve an appealing texture without sacrificing its deep, pleasantly sour flavor. Perhaps the most familiar food made with buckwheat is blini; soba noodles are another. Store the flour in an airtight container at room temperature for up to a year.

BULGUR WHEAT
Popular in Middle Eastern dishes, such as tabbouleh, bulgur wheat is steamed, dried, and crushed wheat kernels. It has a tender, chewy texture and comes in coarse, medium, and fine grinds. Store in a cool, dark spot for up to a year.

CAVIAR
Caviar is the roe, or egg mass, of sturgeon, the best of which is generally considered to come from female sturgeon caught in the Caspian Sea. Three species of sturgeon swim in this sea: beluga, the largest; midsize osetra; and sevruga, the smallest. Beluga roe varies in color from pale to dark gray and is the most delicately flavored caviar: subtle, buttery, and creamy. Though smaller than beluga, osetra eggs have a more assertive taste: nutty and voluptuous. Their color ranges from gold (very rare) to dark brown. Sevruga eggs are tiny, nearly black, and sweet—almost fruity. The general rule for serving caviar is to purchase one to two ounces per guest and buy the best you can afford. Beluga is the priciest, sevruga the least expensive. Serve the caviar in its tin on a bed of ice. Store in the coldest part of the refrigerator for up to two weeks. Once opened, a tin should not be resealed.

CHILE OIL
Used extensively in Chinese cooking, chile oil is made by steeping dried red chiles in flavorless vegetable oil. Chile oil will keep almost indefinitely when stored in a cool, dark place.

CHILE PASTE
Made of a pungent mixture of ground chiles, oil, salt, and sometimes garlic, chile paste is used in cooking as well as at the table. The flavor is intensely concentrated and ranges from mild to very hot, depending on the types of chiles included. Heat it along with the oil when making stir-fries, or serve it as an accompaniment to grilled or roasted meat or fish. It should keep indefinitely in the refrigerator.

CHILE PEPPERS, DRIED
Because the drying process concentrates their heat, dried chiles are hotter than fresh. They vary in size, which generally indicates how hot they are: The larger the chile, the milder it will be. Larger chiles can be chopped and sprinkled into sauces for subtle heat. Smaller chiles should be used sparingly and prepared with caution; handle the seeds carefully, since they harbor much of the heat. (If you prefer, wear gloves when working with them.) Look for dried chiles that are shiny, pliable, and evenly colored. Keep them in a tightly sealed container at room temperature; they are best used within a year of purchase.

CHIPOTLE CHILES
Chipotle chiles are smoked jalapeños with a complex flavor that is hot, smoky, and sweet. They’re typically sold canned, packed in adobo—a spicy, vinegary, tomato-based sauce. Both the chiles and the sauce are used in a wide variety of dishes. Once opened, transfer the contents to an airtight container and refrigerate, for up to several months. Also look for dried chipotles, which can be used in similar ways to other dried chiles (above), and chipotle powder, both sold at Mexican groceries and many supermarkets.

COCONUT
Packaged coconut is available in several forms. Sweetened shredded coconut and unsweetened flaked coconut are primarily used in making desserts. Dessicated coconut, which is dried, shredded, and unsweetened, is a fine substitute for fresh; it is commonly called for in Thai and Indian cooking. Be careful about substituting sweetened for the unsweetened varieties, as you may need to adjust the amount of sugar or other ingredients. Unopened packages can be kept for up to six months; opened bags should be refrigerated (tightly sealed) and used within a month. If flaked or shredded coconut becomes too dry, soak it in milk for thirty minutes, then drain well and pat dry.

FILÉ POWDER
Made from the dried leaves of the sassafras tree, filé powder is an earthy seasoning used in Creole cooking. Use it for thickening gumbos, but be sure to add it at the end of cooking to avoid a gluey consistency. Keep it with other spices in your kitchen, preferably in a cool, dark place.

FIVE-SPICE POWDER
Composed of an equal mixture of cinnamon, cloves, fennel seed, star anise, and Szechuan peppercorns, five-spice powder imparts a fragrant, sweet, and spicy flavor to dishes.

GALANGAL
This Indian root has a strong, spicy taste similar to ginger, and is usually combined with ginger and lemongrass in Thai and Southeast Asian cooking. The whole root form is generally found only at Asian markets; grate it or, for more subtle flavor, steep it in hot soups and sauces (and then discard). The powdered form is more readily available, and will last for six months when kept in a tightly sealed container in a cool, dark spot.

GARAM MASALA
A blend of cumin, pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, and other spices gives garam masala a spicy heat. It is a staple of northern Indian cooking, where it adds depth of flavor to curries and other traditional dishes. It should be added near the end of cooking time, and stored in a cool, dark place.

HARISSA PASTE
This peppery North African relish is a mix of dried red chiles, garlic, tomato puree, olive oil, salt, and ground cumin, coriander, and caraway seeds. It is commonly added to couscous, stews, sauces, and marinades, either during cooking or at the table; because it is so fiery, start with a little and then add more to taste. Imported from Tunisia, harissa is sold in tubes in specialty-food stores. Once opened, refrigerate for up to a year.

HERBES DE PROVENCE
This classic blend of dried herbs, frequently used in southern French cooking, typically includes thyme, basil, fennel, savory, sage, rosemary, tarragon, and lavender, although other herbs can be found in some versions. You can make your own (using equal parts of the herbs) or buy it in the spice section of most supermarkets. Keep it on hand for seasoning sauces, soups, and a variety of other dishes; it is especially delicious with roasted chicken, rack of lamb, and vegetables.

KAFFIR LIME LEAVES
These lime leaves have a citrus aroma and flavor and are primarily used in Thai cooking. Frozen lime leaves are a good substitute for fresh; dried leaves are much less flavorful, so use up to twice as many as a recipe calls for if substituting for fresh (but don’t chop them; use them like bay leaves and discard before serving). If you can’t find lime leaves, substitute 1 teaspoon of grated lime or lemon zest for each leaf.

LEMONGRASS
Lemongrass is an herb that grows in long stalks; it has a citrusy flavor and fragrance and is a staple of Southeast Asian cooking. Use only the lower, fleshy portion for cooking, as the flavor is more highly concentrated there than in the flattened blades. First, remove any dry or tough outer layers; then, if you like, bruise the stalks with the back of a knife to help release the flavor. The stalks can be used whole or cut into slices; they can also be dried and either ground into a powder (one teaspoon of dried lemongrass is as potent as one fresh stalk) or reconstituted by soaking in water for two hours. Keep the stalks, tightly wrapped in paper towels, for up to three weeks in the refrigerator. Or seal them in plastic storage bags and freeze for several months.

MIRIN
This slightly syrupy, sweet rice wine is highly prized in Japanese cuisine for its ability to add a delicate sweetness to foods and to impart depth of flavor; it is commonly added to sushi rice. Made from fermented, glutinous rice, mirin is generally used only for cooking, although some finer varieties can be sipped. Mirin is sold in most supermarkets, where it is sometimes labeled “rice wine.” It will keep indefinitely in a cool pantry.

PANKO
Made from wheat flour and honey, these large and flaky Japanese breadcrumbs are most commonly used to coat foods before deep-frying. They create a wonderful crispy texture and maintain it long after frying. Store panko in an airtight container at room temperature for up to a year.

PEPITAS
Pepitas, which are pumpkin seeds, are very popular in Mexican cooking; they are sold raw or roasted at many health-food stores and supermarkets. Peptitas can be sprinkled on salads or on a variety of dishes as a garnish, or ground into a paste and stirred into soups and sauces (where they will also act as a thickener). Like all seeds, pepitas should be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator or freezer and used within several months.