The Great Fashion Designers (49 page)

BOOK: The Great Fashion Designers
12.29Mb size Format: txt, pdf, ePub

Brenda Polan would like to thank the many editors who have employed her to write about fashion, particularly Dame Liz Forgan who, as the
Guardian's
women's editor, glanced across a crowded features room and plucked her off the late subbing shift and on to the front row at Yves Saint Laurent. She dedicates this book to her siblings, Anthony and Sonia, and to her travelling companion, Colin.

Roger Tredre would like to thank his former colleagues at
The Independent
, in particular Sarah Mower, Lisa Armstrong and Marion Hume, and at
The Observer
and WGSN. Over 10 years, he has appreciated the support and encouragement of Louise Wilson at Central Saint Martins and of the 100 MA students he has been fortunate to teach. Thanks to Oriole Cullen at the Victoria & Albert Museum for suggesting the inclusion of Callot Soeurs and to Elizabeth Richardson for her efficient photo research. He dedicates this book to his parents and to his family—Jennifer, Olivia and Nicholas.

ILLUSTRATIONS

1: Madame Worth wearing a gown by Charles Frederick Worth, 1860. Photo: Getty Images.

2: Marie-Louise Herrouett wears a
robe du soir
by Callot Soeurs. Image: Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images.

3: Evening gown and mink-trimmed jacket, 1934. Photo: Getty Images.

4: Poiret at work, 1925. Photo: Getty Images.

5: Fortuny gown, c.1912. Photo: The Granger Collection/TopFoto.

6: Dress by Jeanne Lanvin, 1926. Photo: Getty Images.

7: Chanel in Paris, 1929. Photo: Getty Images.

8: Coat and dress by Jean Patou, 1926. Photo: Getty Images.

9: Model in Vionnet dress, 1935. Photo: Roger Viollet/Getty Images.

10: Butterfly dress by Elsa Schiaparelli, 1937. Photo: Roger Viollett/Getty Images.

11: Evening dress and fur-trimmed cape by Mainbocher, 1935. Photo: Getty Images.

12: Joan Crawford in
Letty Lynton
, dressed by Adrian. Photo: Getty Images.

13: Salvatore Ferragamo slips on a sh
o
e, 1950. Photo: Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images.

14: Madame Alix Grès dress, 1952. Photo: Getty Images.

15: Balenciaga dress, 1953. Photo: Getty Images.

16: Dior in his Paris studio, 1952. Photo: Getty Images.

17: A Charles James fashion show with the designer in the background, 1950. Photo: Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images.

18: Claire McCardell adjusts a child's dress for a fashion show. Photo: Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images.

19: Hubert de Givenchy designs, 1952. Photo: Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images.

20: Pierre Cardin show, 1970s. Photo: Chris Moore.

21: Mary Quant and models at a fashion show in Milan, 1967. Photo: Getty Images.

22: Rudi Gernreich at work, 1968. Photo: Getty Images.

23: Mrs. Charles McGaha wears a Norman Norell culotte suit, 1960. Photo: Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images.

24: Yves Saint Laurent, spring/summer 2002 couture. Photo: Chris Moore.

25: André Courrèges dress. Photo: Chris Moore.

26: Valentino, autumn/winter 2004. Photo: Chris Moore.

27: Chanel, designed by Karl Lagerfeld, spring/summer 2009. Photo: Chris Moore.

28: Halston with model, 1968. Photo: Getty Images.

29: Kenzo, spring/summer 1988. Photo: Chris Moore.

30: Ralph Lauren, autumn/winter 2001. Photo: Chris Moore.

31: Issey Miyake, autumn/winter 1989. Photo: Chris Moore.

32: Geoffrey Beene, autumn/winter 2000. Photo: Chris Moore.

33: Calvin Klein, autumn/winter 1990. Photo: Chris Moore.

34: Giorgio Armani, autumn/winter 2002. Photo: Chris Moore.

35: Comme des Garçons, designed by Rei Kawakuo, spring/summer 2009. Photo: Chris Moore.

36: Yohji Yamamoto, spring/summer 1985. Photo: Chris Moore.

37: Vivienne Westwood, autumn/winter 1993. Photo: Chris Moore.

38: Paul Smith, spring/summer 2004. Photo: Chris Moore.

39: Azzedine Alaia, autumn/winter 2001. Photo: Chris Moore.

40: Gianni Versace, autumn/winter 1994. Photo: Chris Moore.

41: Jean Paul Gaultier, autumn/winter 1990. Photo: Chris Moore.

42: Dolce & Gabbana, autumn/winter 1992. Photo: Chris Moore.

43: John Galliano, spring/summer 2008. Photo: Chris Moore.

44: Donna Karan, spring/summer 1995. Photo: Chris Moore.

45: Prada, autumn/winter 1996. Photo: Chris Moore.

46: Martin Margiela, spring/summer 2009. Photo: Chris Moore.

47: Marc Jacobs, spring/summer 2009. Photo: Chris Moore.

48: Gucci by Tom Ford, autumn/winter 1995. Photo: Chris Moore.

49: Alexander McQueen, spring/summer 2005. Photo: Chris Moore.

50: Balenciaga, designed by Nicolas Ghesquière, spring/summer 2007. Photo: Chris Moore.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Arnold, R. (2001),
Fashion, Desire and Anxiety
, London: I.B. Tauris.

Ash, J., and Wilson, E. (eds.) (1992),
Chic Thrills: A Fashion Reader
, London: Pandora.

Baines, B.B. (1981)
Fashion Revivals: From the Elizabethan Age to the Present Day
, London: Batsford.

Ballard, B. (1960),
In My Fashion
, New York: David McKay.

Barber, L. (1998), ‘The Frock Prince',
The Observer
, November 29.

Barille, E. (1997),
Lanvin
, Paris: Editions Assouline.

Barnes, R. (1994),
Mods!
London: Plexus.

Beaton, C. (1989),
The Glass of Fashion
, London: Cassell.

Beene, G., Wolcott, J., Luther, M. and Parmal, P.A. (2005)
Beene by Beene
, New York: Vendome Press.

Benaim, L. (1997),
Issey Miyake
, London: Thames & Hudson.

Bender, M. (1967)
The Beautiful People
, New York: Coward-McCann.

Bergé, P. (1997),
Yves Saint Laurent
, Fashion Memoir series, London: Thames & Hudson.

Bergé, P., Muller, F. and Bowles, H. (2008),
Yves Saint Laurent Style
, New York: Abrams.

Bertin, C. (1956),
Paris A La Mode
, tr. M. Deans, London: Victor Gollancz.

Blasberg, D. (2005), Gaultier interview,
Ten
, Winter.

Bluttal, S., and Mears, P. (2001),
Halston
, London: Phaidon.

Bond, D. (1992),
Glamour in Fashion
, London: Guinness Publishing.

Boudot, F. (1996),
Alaia
, Fashion Memoir series, London: Thames & Hudson.

Boucher, F. (1996),
A History of Costume in the West
, London: Thames & Hudson.

Boudot, F. (1997),
Yohji Yamamoto
, Fashion Memoir series, London: Thames & Hudson.

Boudot, F. (1999),
Fashion: The Twentieth Century
, London: Thames & Hudson.

Breward, C. (1994),
The Culture of Fashion: A New History of Fashionable Dress
. Manchester: Manchester University Press.

Breward, C. (2003),
Fashion
, Oxford: Oxford University Press.

Breward, C., Becky C., and Cox, C., (eds.) (2002)
The Englishness of English Dress
, Oxford: Berg.

Breward, C., Ehrman, E., and Evans, C. (2004),
The London Look: Fashion from Street to Catwalk
, London: Yale University Press.

Breward, C., Gilbert, G., and Lister, J. (2006),
Swinging Sixties Fashion in London and Beyond 1955–1970
, London: V&A Publications.

Brubach, H. (1992), ‘The Religion of Woman',
The New Yorker
, July 6.

Brubach, H. (1999),
A Dedicated Follower of Fashion
, London: Phaidon Press.

Buxbaum, G. (ed.) (2005),
Icons of Fashion: The 20th Century
, Munich: Prestel.

Carter, E. (1977)
The Changing World of Fashion
, New York: Putnam's.

Carter, E. (1980),
Magic Names of Fashion
, London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson.

Cartner-Morley, J. (2000), ‘Drama Kings',
The Guardian
, September.

Cawthorne, N. (1996),
The New Look: The Dior Revolution
, London: Hamlyn.

Celant, G. (ed.) (1994),
The Italian Metamorphosis 1943–1968
, New York: Guggenheim Museum Publications.

Celant, G., Sischy I., et al. (2001),
Armani
, New York: Guggenheim Museum Publications.

Charles-Roux, E. (1976),
Chanel
, London: Jonathan Cape.

Charles-Roux, E. (1981),
Chanel and Her World
, London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson.

Chase, E.W., and Chase I. (1954),
Always in Vogue
, London: Victor Gollancz.

Chenoune, F. (1993),
A History of Men's Fashion
, Paris: Flammarion.

Chenoune, F. (1996),
Jean Paul Gaultier
, Paris: Editions Assouline.

Chenoune, F. (2007),
Dior: 60 Years of Style
, London: Thames & Hudson.

Clarke, L. (ed.) Polan, B. (2007),
The Measure, Vivienne Westwood in Conversation
, London: University of the Arts London.

Colegrave, S. and Sullivan, C. (eds.) (2001),
Punk: A Life Apart
, London: Cassell.

Coleman, E.A. (1989),
The Opulent Era: Fashions of Worth, Doucet, Pingat
, London: Thames & Hudson.

Coleridge, N. (1988),
The Fashion Conspiracy
, London: Heinemann.

Collins, A. F. (1994), ‘Haute Coco',
Vanity Fair
, June.

Compton, N. (2002), ‘The New Kingdom of Alexander McQueen',
iD
, August.

Cosgrave, B. (2007),
Made For Each Other: Fashion and the Academy Awards
, London: Bloomsbury.

Cox, C. (2004),
Stiletto
, London: Mitchell Beazley.

Craik, J. (2005),
Uniforms Exposed: From Conformity to Transgression
, Oxford: Berg.

Cullerton, B (1995),
Geoffrey Beene
, New York: Harry N. Abrams.

Cunningham, P.A. (2003),
Reforming Women's Fashion, 1850–1920
, Kent State University Press.

Daria, I. (1990),
The Fashion Cycle
, New York: Simon & Schuster.

De Combray, R. (1982),
Armani
, Milan: Franco Maria Ricci Editore.

De la Haye, A. (1996),
The Cutting Edge: 50 Years of British Fashion
, London: V&A Publications.

De la Haye, A., and Dingwall, C. (eds.) (1996),
Surfers, Soulies, Skinheads and Skaters: Subcultural Style from the Forties to the Nineties
, London: Victoria and Albert Museum.

De la Haye, A., and Tobin S. (1994),
Chanel: The Couturiere at Work
, London: V&A Publications.

De La Haye, A., and Wilson, E. (eds.) (1999),
Defining Dress: Dress as Object, Meaning and Identity
, Manchester: Manchester University Press.

De Marly, D. (1980),
Worth, Father of Haute Couture
, New York: Homes Meier.

De Marly, D. (1990),
History of Haute Couture, 1850–1950
, London: B.T. Batsford.

De Osma, G. (1984),
Fortuny
, London: Aurum Press.

De Réthy, E., and Perreau, J-L. (1999),
Christian Dior: The Early Years 1947–1957
, London: Thames & Hudson.

Dermonex, J. (1991),
Madeleine Vionnet
, tr. A. Audubert, London: Thames & Hudson.

Derrick, R. (2003),
People in Vogue: A Century of Portraits
, London: Little, Brown.

Descott, A-M. (1978), ‘Seeking Your Fortuny',
Sunday Times Magazine
, July 23.

Deslandres, Y. (1987),
Poiret
, London: Thames & Hudson.

Dior, C. (1954)
Christian Dior's Little Dictionary of Fashion: A Guide to Dress Sense for Every Woman
, London: Cassell.

Dior, C., Donnedieu de Varbres, R., Arnault, B., Dufresne, J-L. (2005),
Christian Dior: Man of the Century
, Granville: Musée Christian Dior.

Dolce, D., and Gabbana, S. (1996),
10 Years of Dolce & Gabbana
, New York: Abbeville Press.

D'Orazio, S. (2007),
Gianni and Donatella
, Hamburg: teNeues.

Drake, A. (2006),
The Beautiful Fall: Fashion, Genius and Glorious Excess in 1970s Paris
, London: Bloomsbury.

Dufresne, J-L. (2006),
Christian Dior et Le Monde
, Granville: Musée Christian Dior.

Dufresne, J-L. (2007),
Dior: 60 Annees Hautes en Couleurs
, Granville: Musée Christian Dior.

Duras, M. (1988),
Yves Saint Laurent: Images of Design 1958–1988
, New York: Alfred A. Knopf.

Eastoe, J., and Gristwood, S. (2008),
Fabulous Frocks
, London: Pavillion.

Edelman, A.H. (1997),
The Little Black Dress
, London: Aurum.

Elting, L. (1999), ‘Revealing the Accomplishments of Madame Paquin, the Very Queen of Dressmakers,' MA thesis, Courtauld Institute of Art, London.

English, B. (2007),
A Cultural History of Fashion in the 20th Century: From the Catwalk to the Sidewalk
, Oxford: Berg.

Esquevin, C. (2008),
Adrian: Silver Screen to Custom Label
, New York: Monacelli Press.

Etherington-Smith, M. (1983),
Patou
, London: Hutchinson.

Evans, C. (2003),
Fashion at the Edge: Spectacle, Modernity, and Deathliness
, New Haven: Yale University Press.

Evans, C. (2008), ‘Jean Patou's American Mannequins: Early Fashion Shows and Modernism',
Modernism/modernity
, 15/2, April.

Evans, C., and Thornton M. (1989),
Women and Fashion: A New Look
, London: Quartet Books.

Ewing, E., and Mackrell, A. (1992),
History of 20th Century Fashion
, London: Batsford.

Fairchild, J. (1965),
The Fashionable Savages
, New York: Doubleday.

Other books

Carl Weber's Kingpins by Keisha Ervin
Birthday Bride by Marie Pinkerton
Vengeance by Brian Falkner
Happy Chaos by Soleil Moon Frye
The Treasure by Iris Johansen
Perilous by E. H. Reinhard
Lies and Prophecy by Marie Brennan