The French Market Cookbook (18 page)

3. Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until the dough is smooth and pulls away from the counter, about 5 minutes. The dough will remain fairly tacky; adjust the consistency with a little more water or flour as needed.

4. Return to the bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rest at room temperature until puffy, 2 hours. The dough can be made up to a day in advance: refrigerate just after kneading and remove from the fridge 2 hours before using.

CLASSIC VINAIGRETTE

Vinaigrette classique

MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP / 120 ML DRESSING, ENOUGH FOR 10 CUPS / 250 G SALAD GREENS

This is the mother of all salad dressings, one you can make in any quantity and without a recipe if you remember this: one part mustard to two parts acid to six parts oil, mixed in this order, creates a velvety and well-balanced vinaigrette for crudités, salads, and steamed vegetables.

Although red wine vinegar is the classic acid to use, any vinegar or citrus juice may be substituted. Likewise, use any oil or oils that you like, but if you want to feature one that’s strong-flavored, such as walnut or hazelnut, combine it with a more soft-spoken one.

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

6 tablespoons extra-virgin oil(s) of your choice

Optional additions

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

Fresh herbs (flat-leaf parsley, chives, cilantro, basil, chervil), finely chopped

1 teaspoon drained capers, finely chopped

1. In a small bowl, or in the salad bowl you’ll use to serve your salad, combine the vinegar and salt. If you’re using diced shallot and/or garlic, add it now and let it sit in the vinegar for 30 minutes to soften its edge.

2. Add the mustard and stir until blended. Add a generous grind of black pepper and then pour in the oil in a slow stream, whisking it in to emulsify. Stir in the herbs and/or capers, if using. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

HONEY LEMON VINAIGRETTE

Vinaigrette au miel et au citron

MAKES ABOUT ⅔ CUP
160 ML, ENOUGH FOR 14 CUPS
350 G SALAD GREENS

While a classic vinaigrette (opposite) can’t be beat, this recipe is the one I turn to when I want something a little different. Mildly sweet from the honey and tangy from the lemon juice, it pairs well with all manner of crudités and salad greens, and it is the one I use in my Shaved Fennel Salad.

Like any vinaigrette, this takes no time at all to whip up, but feel free to make a double or triple batch, to keep in a jar in the fridge. Shake well before using to re-create the emulsion.

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

⅓ cup / 80 ml extra-virgin olive oil

In a small bowl, or in the salad bowl you’ll use to serve your salad, combine the honey, mustard, and salt. Whisk in the lemon juice with a fork, pouring it in slowly so the mixture remains smooth, and then whisk in the olive oil. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

CHEATER’S SPICY GARLIC MAYONNAISE

Rouille du tricheur

MAKES 1 CUP / 240 ML

The French name for this sauce is rouille, or “rust,” in reference to its dark orange color. It is classically made by pounding garlic and chile peppers to form a paste that will flavor a homemade mayonnaise. It is the traditional condiment to serve alongside a fish soup or bouillabaisse, such as Poor Man’s Bouillabaisse, but it is just as good in sandwiches and potato salads.

Making your own mayonnaise is much faster and easier than is generally thought and it is also intensely rewarding. I do, however, save myself the pounding step, and flavor it with a ready-made garlic and chile sauce, such as Harissa or Sriracha.

Olive oil is too assertive to play solo in a mayonnaise, but you can include a few tablespoons if you want to.

1 large organic egg yolk (see Note)

1 tablespoon garlic-chile sauce, or more to taste

½ teaspoon fine sea salt, or more to taste

¾ cup / 180 ml neutral-tasting oil, such as grapeseed or safflower

1. Bring all the ingredients to room temperature before you begin.

2. Set a medium bowl on a dampened kitchen towel on the counter to keep it steady. In the bowl, whisk together the egg yolk, garlic-chile sauce, lemon juice, and salt.

3. Measure the oil into a measuring cup with a pouring spout. Pour it into the bowl a few drops at a time at first, whisking constantly to allow the oil to form an emulsion with the other ingredients. Whisk with your dominant hand and pour the oil with the other; the bowl should not move, thanks to the dampened towel.

4. When the mixture becomes creamy, you can start pouring the oil in a very thin drizzle, whisking all the while. When all the oil has been added, the mayonnaise should form peaks.

5. Taste and add a little more salt or garlic-chile sauce as needed. Transfer to a jar with a tight lid, refrigerate, and eat within the next 2 days.

note Because the egg yolk in mayonnaise is not cooked, use the freshest egg you can find. Even so, pregnant women, young children, and people with a weakened immune system should avoid eating foods that contain raw eggs.

GRIBICHE SAUCE

Sauce gribiche

MAKES ¾ CUP / 180 ML

Gribiche is an old word used in the Swiss French dialect for an ugly witchlike woman who is called upon to scare kids into doing things, but it’s hard to see the connection with this innocent little sauce. Sauce gribiche starts out like a mayonnaise, only it is emulsified with a cooked, rather than raw, egg yolk. Capers, cornichons, herbs, and chopped bits of cooked egg white are folded in to create a highly flavorsome, slightly chunky sauce.

It is traditionally served with cold fish and meats, calves’ head, and beef stew, but it pairs just as well with vegetables, raw or cooked. It is especially good with asparagus, spooned over crisp lettuce and steamed new potatoes, or dotted on a bowl of Roasted Roots.

1 large organic egg, hard-boiled, peeled

1½ teaspoons strong Dijon mustard

⅛ teaspoon fine sea salt

⅓ cup / 80 ml neutral-tasting oil, such as grapeseed or safflower

2 tablespoons / 30 ml extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon white wine vinegar or cider vinegar (optional)

1 cup / 20 g fresh herb leaves (such as a mix of parsley, tarragon, chervil, and dill)

2 tablespoons capers, drained and finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped cornichons (optional)

1. Bring all the ingredients to room temperature before you begin.

2. Set a medium bowl on a dampened kitchen towel on the counter to keep it steady.

3. Halve the hard-boiled egg and separate the white from the yolk. Push the yolk through a sieve into the bowl (alternatively, mash it to a very fine paste with a fork). Mix in the mustard and salt until completely smooth.

4. Measure both oils into a measuring cup with a pouring spout. Pour it into the bowl a few drops at a time at first, whisking constantly to allow the oil to form an emulsion with the other ingredients. Whisk with your dominant hand and pour the oil with the other; the bowl should not move, thanks to the dampened towel.

5. When the mixture becomes creamy, you can start pouring the oil in a very thin drizzle, whisking all the while. When all the oil has been added, the mayonnaise should form peaks. If the sauce seems stiff, whisk in the vinegar to loosen.

6. Chop the egg white finely. Fold the egg white, herbs, capers, and cornichons (if using) into the sauce. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Transfer to a jar with a tight lid, refrigerate, and eat within the next 3 to 4 days.

note If pressed for time, make a shortcut gribiche sauce by adding finely chopped capers, cornichons, fresh herbs, and hard-boiled egg white to good-quality store-bought mayonnaise.

HARISSA

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP / 240 ML

Harissa is a ubiquitous condiment in North African cuisine. A purée of chile peppers mashed with garlic and spices, it is typically served with couscous, such as Couscous with Vegetables, or used as a sandwich spread. It can also spice up salads, such as Eggplant and Fresh Herb Tabbouleh, and sauces, such as Cheater’s Spicy Garlic Mayonnaise, act as a spice rub, and step in anywhere you might use strong mustard.

We consume a lot of the stuff at home; on the handful of occasions I’ve traveled to Tunisia or Morocco, I’ve brought back tubs of it, purchased at bustling corner stores where they ladle it out from large barrels. When that runs out, I either get more at the supermarket, where it is sold in toothpaste-like tubes, or mix my own from dried chiles for fresher and more vibrant results.

5 ounces / 140 g dried red chile peppers, a mix of mild and strong, stemmed and seeded (keep some or all of the seeds to make the harissa hotter)

Boiling water

½ teaspoon caraway seeds or ¼ teaspoon ground caraway

½ teaspoon cumin seeds or ¼ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon coriander seeds or ¼ teaspoon ground coriander

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, or more if needed

1. In a heatproof bowl, cover the chile peppers with boiling water. Set aside for 15 minutes to soften.

2. In a small skillet, combine the caraway, cumin, and coriander and toast over medium heat stirring often to prevent burning, until fragrant. Let cool completely. If you’re using whole seeds, grind in a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle.

3. Drain the chile peppers and pat dry with a kitchen towel. Transfer to a food processor or blender and add the ground spices, garlic, salt, and olive oil and process until completely smooth, scraping down the sides regularly. Add a little more oil as needed to make the mixture smooth. Taste a tiny dab on a piece of bread (it may be hotter than you think) and adjust the seasoning.

4. Transfer to a jar and use within a month.

BÉCHAMEL SAUCE

Sauce béchamel

MAKES 1⅓ CUPS / 320 ML BÉCHAMEL SAUCE

Named after Louis de Béchamel, the seventeenth-century gourmet who was Louis XIV’s maître d’ and may have been its inventor, béchamel is a milk-based sauce thickened with flour. It comes into play in many French dishes and is an oft-used component in vegetable gratins, such as Cauliflower Gratin with Turmeric and Hazelnuts.

Although the idea of making a sauce from scratch can sound intimidating to the beginner cook, there is little to worry about here; so long as you can whisk and watch, you’ll have a silky béchamel ready in minutes. The classic version calls for butter and cow’s milk, but it can be made vegan by substituting oil and nondairy milk. Have all the ingredients measured out and ready before you begin.

2 tablespoons / 30 g unsalted butter, or 2 tablespoons neutral-tasting oil, such as grapeseed or safflower

3 tablespoons / 25 g all-purpose flour

1⅓ cups / 320 ml milk (not skim) or unflavored, unsweetened nondairy milk

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Freshly grated nutmeg

1. Melt the butter or heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. When the butter starts to sizzle or the oil to shimmer, add the flour and whisk it in (this is called a roux blanc). Cook, stirring constantly with the whisk, until creamy but not colored, about 3 minutes.

2. Pour in the milk, little by little, whisking it into the roux, watching out for any clumps on the bottom and sides of the pan. Bring to a simmer and cook for a few minutes, stirring as the mixture becomes creamy, like a thin custard sauce. Dip a wooden spoon in the béchamel and run your finger along the back of it: if the trace remains clear, the sauce is done.

3. Season with salt, pepper, and a whisper of nutmeg. Use immediately.

HERBED TAHINI SAUCE

Sauce tahini aux herbes

MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP / 120 ML

Tahini, a Middle Eastern sesame paste, can be thinned into a quick sauce that is traditionally served over falafel. Its flavor is rich but bright, and its subtle nuttiness enhances the other elements on the plate like magic.

It goes superbly well with vegetables—steamed, sautéed, or roasted—such as carrots, broccoli, winter squash, or root vegetables, and with legumes, such as Lentil Croquettes.

¼ cup / 80 g good-quality all-natural tahini

2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs (such as chives, cilantro, parsley, and mint)

½ garlic clove, pressed in a garlic press or finely chopped

¼ teaspoon fine sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

In a bowl, combine the tahini, herbs, lemon juice, garlic, salt, and pepper. Stir in a few drops of cold water. When mostly incorporated, add a few drops more and repeat. The tahini should be thinned little by little to avoid curdling. As you add the water, the mixture will change in consistency and color, from grainy to smooth, and from beige to off-white. Add about 2 tablespoons to make it thick and creamy for a dip, or 3 tablespoons to make a thin and milky sauce. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

SHELL-POACHED EGGS

Oeufs pochés en coquille

MAKES 6 EGGS

Hervé This is a French researcher who explores the physical and chemical aspects of cooking. Among his popular experiments is “the 65-degree egg,” based on the observation that the white and yellow parts of the egg set at different temperatures. Therefore he suggests cooking eggs in their shell in the middle of that temperature range, at 150°F. / 65°C., to obtain a set white and a creamy yolk, as the Japanese have long done with their onsen tamago, an egg plunged in natural hot springs to cook.

This technique requires a thermometer to control the water temperature in the saucepan, but the result is a soft-boiled egg with a marvelously silky, almost slippery white—unlike the stiff texture you get from boiling the egg—and a custardy yolk. Serve these eggs on slices of toast, in cups of soup, or in bowls of warm vegetables, such as in Poor Man’s Bouillabaisse.