The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (206 page)

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

Orange and mint make a refreshing contrast to the rich salmon. For more information on peeling and cutting oranges,
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.

1.
Peel oranges, making sure to remove all pith, and cut into ¹⁄
₂
-inch pieces. Place pieces in fine-mesh strainer set over medium bowl and drain for 15 minutes.

2.
Pour off all but 1 tablespoon orange juice from bowl; whisk in mint, shallot, lemon juice, and oil. Stir in orange pieces and season with salt and pepper to taste.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

We wanted to pull off a crowd-pleasing side of salmon that was moist and firm, with a golden brown crumb crust for a textural contrast. A plain bread-crumb topping seemed bland, but when we toasted the crumbs and mixed in crushed potato chips and chopped dill, the result was a crisp and flavorful coating. A thin layer of mustard boosted flavor and helped the crumb mixture adhere to the fish. One problem: the crust burned by the time the fish was cooked through. We switched gears and broiled the fish almost unadorned until it was nearly done, then spread on the mustard and crumbs for a second run under the broiler to crisp the crust.

See “REMOVING PINBONES FROM SALMON” illustration that follows recipe.

SERVES 8 TO 10

Heavy-duty aluminum foil measuring 18 inches wide is essential for creating a sling that aids in transferring the cooked fillet to a carving board. Use a large baking sheet so that the salmon will lie flat. If you can’t get the fish to lie flat, even when positioning it diagonally on the baking sheet, trim the tail end. If you prefer to cook a smaller 2-pound fillet, ask to have it cut from the thick center of the fillet, not the thin tail end, and begin checking doneness a minute earlier. We prefer thick-cut and kettle-cooked potato chips in this recipe; ridged chips would work in a pinch.

1.
Adjust 1 oven rack to upper-middle position and other rack 3 inches from broiler element; heat oven to 400 degrees.

2.
Pulse bread in food processor to fairly even ¹⁄
₄
-inch pieces, about 10 pulses. Spread crumbs evenly on rimmed baking sheet; toast on lower rack, shaking pan once or twice, until golden brown and crisp, 4 to 5 minutes. Toss bread crumbs, crushed potato chips, and dill together in small bowl and set aside.

3.
Change oven setting to heat broiler. Use sharp knife to remove any whitish fat from belly of salmon. Cut piece of heavy-duty foil to be 6 inches longer than fillet. Fold foil lengthwise in thirds and place lengthwise on rimmed baking sheet; position salmon lengthwise on foil, allowing excess foil to overhang baking sheet. Rub fillet evenly with oil and season with salt and pepper. Broil salmon on upper rack until surface is spotty brown and outer ¹⁄
₂
inch of thick end is opaque when gently flaked with paring knife, 9 to 11 minutes. Remove fish from oven, spread evenly with mustard, and press bread-crumb mixture onto fish. Return to lower rack and continue broiling until crust is deep golden brown, about 1 minute longer.

4.
Transfer salmon and foil sling to carving board, slide salmon off sling onto carving board and serve.

Process one 1-inch piece peeled fresh ginger, 3 garlic cloves, 3 shallots, 2 stemmed and seeded jalapeño chiles, 2 teaspoons grated lime zest plus 3 tablespoons juice (2 limes), 2 tablespoons honey, and 2 cups cilantro leaves in food processor until smooth, about 30 seconds, scraping down bowl as necessary. Omit dill and substitute ¹⁄
₂
cup citrus-cilantro paste for Dijon mustard.

Use a smooth mango chutney for this recipe. If you can find only chunky mango chutney, puree it in a food processor until smooth before using.

Melt 2 tablespoons unsalted butter in 8-inch skillet over medium heat. Off heat, add 1 minced garlic clove, ¹⁄
₂
teaspoon ground cumin, ¹⁄
₂
teaspoon paprika, ¹⁄
₄
teaspoon ground cinnamon, ¹⁄
₄
teaspoon cayenne, and ¹⁄
₄
teaspoon salt. Set aside. Substitute 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley for dill, toss butter-spice mixture into bread crumbs along with potato chips, and substitute 3 tablespoons smooth mango chutney for Dijon mustard.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

When salmon is poached incorrectly, not only is it dry, but the flavor is so washed out that not even the richest sauce can redeem it. We wanted irresistibly supple salmon accented by the delicate flavor of the poaching liquid, accompanied by a simple pan sauce—all in under half an hour. Poaching the salmon in just enough liquid to come half an inch up the side of the fillets meant all we needed was a couple of shallots, a few herbs, and some wine to boost the flavor of the liquid. However, the part of the salmon that wasn’t submerged in liquid needed to be steamed for thorough cooking, and the low cooking temperature required to poach the salmon evenly didn’t create enough steam. The solution was to increase the ratio of wine to water. The additional alcohol lowered the liquid’s boiling point, producing more vapor even at the lower temperature. To keep the bottom of the fillets from overcooking due to direct contact with the pan, we placed them on top of lemon slices for insulation. After removing the salmon, we reduced the liquid and added a few tablespoons of olive oil to create an easy vinaigrette-style sauce.

SERVES 4

To ensure uniform pieces of fish that cook at the same rate, buy a whole center-cut fillet and cut it into 4 pieces. If a skinless whole fillet is unavailable, remove the skin yourself or follow the recipe as directed with a skin-on fillet, adding 3 to 4 minutes to the cooking time in step 2. This recipe will yield salmon fillets cooked to medium-rare.

1.
Line plate with paper towels. Cut top and bottom off 1 lemon, then cut into eight to ten ¹⁄
₄
-inch-thick slices. Cut remaining lemon into 8 wedges and set aside. Arrange lemon slices in single layer across bottom of 12-inch skillet. Scatter herb stems and 2 tablespoons minced shallot evenly over lemon slices. Add wine and water to skillet.

2.
Use sharp knife to remove any whitish fat from belly of salmon and cut fillet into 4 equal pieces. Place salmon fillets in skillet, skinned side down, on top of lemon slices. Set pan over high heat and bring liquid to simmer. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook until sides are opaque but center of thickest part of fillet is still translucent when cut into with paring knife, or until fillet registers 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 11 to 16 minutes. Remove pan from heat and, using spatula, carefully transfer salmon and lemon slices to prepared plate and tent loosely with aluminum foil.

3.
Return pan to high heat and simmer cooking liquid until slightly thickened and reduced to 2 tablespoons, 4 to 5 minutes. Meanwhile, combine chopped parsley and tarragon, remaining minced shallot, capers, oil, and honey in medium bowl. Strain reduced cooking liquid through fine-mesh strainer into bowl with herb mixture, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Whisk to combine and season with salt and pepper to taste.

4.
Season salmon with salt and pepper. Using spatula, carefully lift and tilt salmon fillets to remove lemon slices. Place salmon on serving platter or individual plates and spoon vinaigrette over top. Serve, passing lemon wedges separately.

SERVES 4

To ensure uniform pieces of fish that cook at the same rate, buy a whole center-cut fillet and cut it into 4 pieces. If a skinless whole fillet is unavailable, remove the skin yourself or follow the recipe as directed with a skin-on fillet, adding 3 to 4 minutes to the cooking time in step 2. This recipe will yield salmon fillets that are cooked to medium-rare.

1.
Line plate with paper towels. Cut top and bottom off 1 lemon, then cut into eight to ten ¹⁄
₄
-inch-thick slices. Cut remaining lemon into 8 wedges and set aside. Arrange lemon slices in single layer across bottom of 12-inch skillet. Scatter dill stems and 2 tablespoons minced shallots evenly over lemon slices. Add wine and water to skillet.

2.
Use sharp knife to remove any whitish fat from belly of salmon and cut fillet into 4 equal pieces. Place salmon fillets in skillet, skinned side down, on top of lemon slices. Set pan over high heat and bring liquid to simmer. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook until sides are opaque but center of thickest part of fillet is still translucent when cut into with paring knife or until fillet registers 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 11 to 16 minutes. Remove pan from heat and, using spatula, carefully transfer salmon and lemon slices to prepared plate and tent loosely with aluminum foil.

3.
Return pan to high heat and simmer cooking liquid until slightly thickened and reduced to 2 tablespoons, 4 to 5 minutes. Strain cooking liquid through fine-mesh strainer into medium bowl; discard solids. Return strained liquid to skillet; whisk in Dijon mustard and remaining 2 tablespoons shallot. Simmer over high heat until slightly thickened and reduced to 2 tablespoons, 4 to 5 minutes. Whisk in sour cream and juice from 1 reserved lemon wedge; simmer 1 minute. Remove from heat; whisk in butter and 2 tablespoons minced dill fronds. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

4.
Season salmon lightly with salt and pepper. Using spatula, carefully lift and tilt salmon fillets to remove lemon slices. Place salmon on serving platter or individual plates and spoon sauce over top. Serve, passing lemon wedges separately.