The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (177 page)

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

We love the buttery-smooth texture of beef tenderloin, but this mild-tasting cut is usually in need of a flavor boost. We wanted to combine the bracing flavor of horseradish with a crisp, golden crust that would also add textural contrast to perfectly cooked, rosy, medium-rare meat. So we chose Châteaubriand, a center-cut roast with a uniform shape that cooks evenly; we used homemade fried potato shreds and panko instead of regular bread crumbs to counter the moisture of the horseradish coating; and we left the bottom of the roast uncoated so that meat juices had a place to escape without ruining the crust. The result was the best horseradish-crusted beef tenderloin we’ve ever had.

SERVES 6

Add the gelatin to the horseradish paste at the last moment, or the mixture will become unspreadable. If desired, serve the roast with
HORSERADISH CREAM SAUCE
(you will need 2 jars of prepared horseradish for both the roast and sauce). If you choose to salt the tenderloin in advance, remove it from the refrigerator 1 hour before cooking.

1.
Sprinkle roast with 1 tablespoon salt, cover with plastic wrap, and let stand at room temperature for 1 hour or refrigerate for up to 24 hours. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees.

2.
Toss panko with 2 teaspoons oil, ¹⁄
₄
teaspoon salt, and ¹⁄
₄
teaspoon pepper in 10-inch nonstick skillet. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until deep golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to rimmed baking sheet and cool to room temperature (wipe out skillet). Once cool, toss bread crumbs with 2 tablespoons horseradish, parsley, shallot, garlic, and thyme.

3.
Rinse grated potato under cold water, then squeeze dry in kitchen towel. Transfer potato and remaining 1 cup oil to 10-inch nonstick skillet. Cook over high heat, stirring frequently, until potato is golden brown and crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer potato to paper towel–lined plate and season with salt to taste; cool for 5 minutes. Reserve 1 tablespoon oil from skillet and discard remainder. Once potato is cool, transfer to 1-quart zipper-lock bag and crush until coarsely ground. Transfer potato to baking sheet with bread-crumb mixture and toss to combine.

4.
Pat tenderloin dry with paper towels and sprinkle evenly with 1 teaspoon pepper. Heat reserved 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Sear tenderloin until well browned on all sides, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet and let rest for 10 minutes.

5.
Combine remaining 2 tablespoons horseradish, mayonnaise, and mustard in small bowl. Just before coating tenderloin, add gelatin and stir to combine. Spread horseradish paste on top and sides of meat, leaving bottom and ends bare. Roll coated sides of tenderloin in bread-crumb mixture, pressing gently so crumbs adhere in even layer that just covers horseradish paste; pat off any excess.

6.
Return tenderloin to wire rack. Roast until meat registers 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 25 to 30 minutes.

7.
Transfer roast to carving board and let rest for 20 minutes. Carefully cut meat into ¹⁄
₂
-inch-thick slices and serve.

TO MAKE AHEAD:
To make recipe 1 day in advance, prepare through step 3, but in step 2 do not toss bread crumbs with other ingredients until ready to sear meat.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Looking beyond prime rib and beef tenderloin, we wanted to find a top-quality boneless roast that was tender, flavorful, and easy to carve. After testing different cuts—sirloin tip roast, top sirloin roast, and top loin roast—we found just what we were looking for in the top loin roast. It was tender, perfectly marbled, and full-flavored. We aged the meat for one to three days for a mellow, buttery, and nutty flavor. Finally, an unconventional method for cooking a roast yielded the best results. We started cooking the roast in a skillet on the stove and then finished it in the oven for a beautiful mahogany-brown crust and a juicy pink interior.

SERVES 8 TO 10

If you do not own an ovensafe skillet, sear the roast in any skillet, then transfer it to a roasting pan for oven cooking. We prefer the flavor and texture of this roast when cooked rare. If medium-rare is more to your liking, cook the roast until it registers 120 to 125 degrees. Serve with Garlic-Herb Butter if desired (recipe follows).

1.
Line rimmed baking sheet with paper towels and set wire rack in baking sheet. Pat roast dry with additional paper towels, then set roast on wire rack. Refrigerate, uncovered, on lowest shelf for 1 to 3 days.

2.
Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 250 degrees. Remove roast from refrigerator; using sharp paring knife, trim fat and silver skin from roast and shave off hard, dried exterior surfaces. Rub roast with 2 tablespoons oil; let roast stand at room temperature for 1 hour.

3.
Combine salt and pepper in small bowl; season all surfaces of roast with salt-pepper mixture, pressing so salt and pepper adhere. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch ovensafe skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking; set roast in skillet, fat-trimmed side down, and cook until well browned, about 3 minutes. Using tongs to turn roast, brown on all sides, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Turn roast fat-trimmed side up, transfer skillet to oven, and roast until center registers 115 to 120 degrees, 40 to 50 minutes. Using potholders to handle skillet, transfer roast to carving board, loosely tent roast with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes. Cut meat into ¹⁄
₄
-inch-thick slices and serve.