The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (14 page)

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Too often, potstickers are dense, flavorless meatballs wrapped in a doughy blanket. We wanted tender, well-seasoned dumplings. To lighten the filling, we increased the amount of cabbage (after first salting and draining it to get rid of excess moisture) and then added lightly beaten egg whites. Turning to the wrappers, we found that store-bought gyoza-style wrappers and wonton wrappers both made terrific potstickers, although tasters preferred the slightly chewy texture of the gyoza-style. To keep the filling in place and the wrapper from puffing up and away from the meat during cooking, we found it best to fold each meat-filled wrapper into a half-moon, pinch the middle closed, then carefully press out any air while sealing the edges. Our final challenge was the cooking procedure. A sequence of browning, steaming, then cranking up the heat produced potstickers with a pleasing balance of soft and crisp textures.

See “WRAPPING POTSTICKERS” illustrations that follow recipe.

MAKES 24 DUMPLINGS, SERVES 6

These dumplings are best served hot from the skillet; we recommend that you serve the first batch immediately, then cook the second batch.

FILLING

DUMPLINGS

1. FOR FILLING:
Toss cabbage with salt in colander set over bowl and let stand until cabbage begins to wilt, about 20 minutes. Press cabbage gently with rubber spatula to squeeze out any excess moisture, then transfer to medium bowl. Add pork, scallions, egg, soy sauce, ginger, garlic, and pepper and mix thoroughly to combine. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until mixture is cold, at least 30 minutes or up to 24 hours.

2. FOR DUMPLINGS:
Working with 4 wrappers at a time (keep remaining wrappers covered with plastic wrap), follow illustrations to fill, seal, and shape dumplings using generous 1 tablespoon of chilled filling per dumpling. Transfer dumplings to baking sheet and repeat with remaining wrappers and filling; you should have about 24 dumplings.

3.
Line large plate with double layer of paper towels. Brush 2 teaspoons oil over bottom of 12-inch nonstick skillet and arrange half of dumplings in skillet, flat side down (overlapping just slightly if necessary). Place skillet over medium-high heat and cook dumplings, without moving, until golden brown on bottom, about 5 minutes.

4.
Reduce the heat to low, add ¹⁄
₂
cup water, and cover immediately. Continue to cook, covered, until most of water is absorbed and wrappers are slightly translucent, about 10 minutes. Uncover skillet, increase heat to medium-high, and continue to cook, without stirring, until dumpling bottoms are well browned and crisp, 3 to 4 minutes more. Slide dumplings onto paper towel–lined plate, browned side facing down, and let drain briefly. Transfer dumplings to serving platter and serve with scallion dipping sauce. Let skillet cool until just warm, then wipe out with paper towels and repeat step 3 with remaining dumplings, oil, and water. (Uncooked dumplings can be placed on plate, wrapped tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerated for 1 day, or frozen for 1 month. Once frozen, dumplings can be transferred to zipper-lock bag to save space in freezer; do not thaw before cooking.)

Substitute 12 ounces peeled, deveined shrimp (any size), tails removed, pulsed 10 times in food processor, for pork.

MAKES
³⁄
₄
CUP

The sauce can be refrigerated overnight.

Combine all ingredients in bowl and serve.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Vinaigrettes often seem a little slipshod—harsh and bristling in one bite, dull and oily in the next—plus they tend to separate soon after being prepared. We found that top-notch ingredients are crucial for best, balanced flavor. Fruity extra-virgin olive oil is preferred as an all-purpose option, while walnut oil is best for nuttier vinaigrettes. Wine vinegar (red or white) is a better match for mild greens and balsamic vinegar is pungent enough to stand up to assertive greens. For a well-balanced vinaigrette that wouldn’t separate, we whisked the oil and vinegar together with a little mayonnaise, which acts as an emulsifier.

MAKES ABOUT
¹⁄
₄
CUP

This vinaigrette works with nearly any type of greens. For a hint of garlic flavor, rub the inside of the salad bowl with a clove of garlic before adding the lettuce. You can use red wine, white wine, or champagne vinegar here; however, it is important to use high-quality ingredients. Use about 2 tablespoons of this dressing per 4 cups greens, serving two.

1.
Combine vinegar, shallot, mayonnaise, mustard, salt, and pepper to taste in small bowl. Whisk until mixture is milky in appearance and no lumps of mayonnaise remain.

2.
Place oil in small measuring cup so that it is easy to pour. Whisking constantly, very slowly drizzle oil into vinegar mixture. If pools of oil gather on surface as you whisk, stop addition of oil and whisk mixture well to combine, then resume whisking in oil in slow stream. Vinaigrette should be glossy and lightly thickened, with no pools of oil on its surface. (Vinaigrette can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.)

This is best for dressing mild greens.

Substitute fresh lemon juice for vinegar, omit shallot, and add ¹⁄
₄
teaspoon finely grated lemon zest and pinch of sugar along with salt and pepper.

This is best for dressing assertive greens.

Substitute balsamic vinegar for wine vinegar, increase mustard to 2 teaspoons, and add ¹⁄
₂
teaspoon chopped fresh thyme along with salt and pepper.

Substitute 1¹⁄
₂
tablespoons roasted walnut oil and 1¹⁄
₂
tablespoons regular olive oil for extra-virgin olive oil.

Add 1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley or chives and ¹⁄
₂
teaspoon minced fresh thyme, tarragon, marjoram, or oregano to vinaigrette just before use.